upcycling

Vogue Arabia, June 2022. Photo: Fayad Fulani
Saudi designer Nasiba Hafiz stands out among Instagram’s glossy feeds for her authenticity and quirky style. “It all started with my parents, but mainly my mother, of course. We share the same name, and have so much in common, especially our love for fashion.”
Ensconced by seven siblings, Hafiz has always been something of a pioneer. Her idea of upcycling and recycling came to her after the passing of her father, renowned Saudi publisher Hisham Hafiz, in 2006. Many years later, she discovered that the family still had bags of his clothes stored. “Nobody wanted to give any away,” she recalls. “He was a collector of many things, but one thing that I remember most were his neck ties. He even had them in his dressing room inside a cupboard with a machine that would roll them so you can choose which one you want to wear for the day.” Hafiz crafted a memento for each of her siblings from her father’s ties and the idea to create clothes out of existing pieces was born.
Vogue Arabia, June 2022. Photo: Fayad Fulani
“I am passionate about the environment as well and I hate being in an industry that is among the top three that pollute Earth,” states Hafiz. “But my passion is fashion, so I try to make the best out of what I have. Instead of adding to the environment, I try to redesign, amend clothes that we already have, and use things that already exist like scarves, neck ties, and more,” continues the designer, who has degrees from London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins. Her designs are also inspired by musical plays and Egyptian film muses, and her signature Love and Heart abayas are a mélange of timeless, daring cuts and delicate tailoring. Hafiz’s work is all handmade in collaboration with Namat Embroidery. Her ongoing collaborators include Sarah’s Bag in Lebanon, Saudi artist RexChouk, SEP Jordan, Al Oula charity organization, and Sleysla KSA with Saudi women artists that transform traditional patterns and fabrics into eco-friendly, handmade modern designs.
Originally published in the June 2022 issue of Vogue Arabia
Read Next: Why Upcycling is the Biggest Trend Right Now

January 2018, Vogue Arabia. Photo: William Lords
As the fashion world continues to work towards sustainability, trying to help save the planet from the impending climate crisis, upcycling is the biggest trend of the season. It’s even resonating with haute couture, where the reuse and recycling of clothing and fabric is hardly expected. Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp was one of the first to use repurposed fabrics and materials, with all his collections incorporating upcycling. He’s found a way to reuse old items to beautify and exalt, prompting other designers to rethink their creative process as well.
Multicolored Terry torchon in Marine Serre SS22 dresses and boots
Looking back, for FW21, the message was fabric reuse, vintage denim, and sustainable materials. For his Artisanal collection, Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano presented a patchwork gown made from vintage and antique Delft blue fabrics. In Schiaparelli’s signature surreal style, artistic director Daniel Roseberry transformed a pair of old jeans into a jacket embroidered with golden cone and shell-like forms, lips, ceramic eyes, and intricate patterns; the epitome of upcycling meeting the grandiose world of haute couture. Regenerating fabrics will become even more the norm for conscious designers. Case in point: Marine Serre SS22 featured 90% regenerated fabrics – terry torchon typically used for household chores and jewelry crafted from cutlery, glass, and stones, and leather and denim wear.
Arab designers are also taking adventures in upcycling seriously. There’s Iraqi London-based label Atelier Mundane, known for its wild prints and dynamic colors, who uses upcycled fabrics and vegan leather. Then there’s Paris-based BassCoutur, founded by Tunisian designer Riad Trabelsi, and which is made entirely out of deadstock clothing and fabrics as well as recycled and upcycled fabrics. The ready-to-wear label of Lebanese fashion designer Roni Helou, who is now based in Beirut and Doha, is defined by sustainability and activism. Helou often uses deadstock and locally sourced materials such as gauze, poplin, cotton knit, and denim to create his overcoats. “I prefer the words ‘conscious’ and ‘activist’ to define my brand rather than sustainable as it has been overused,” says Helou. “We only use deadstock, discarded, and vintage fabrics that are 10 years or older.” Helou often buys used fabrics from Creative Space Beirut, the public fashion school he attended in Lebanon, that have been donated by top designers like Donna Karan and Diane Von Furstenberg. “It’s not just fabrics, we are talking about zippers and buttons, too… everything that will be included in the creation of my garments.”
Patchwork embroidery with Elsa Schiaparelli’s original 1930s swatches from lesage + pearls + rhinestones + lurex thread + 3d printed golden ears, mouths, and noses
Dubai-based Palestinian designer Reema Al Banna is doing something similar with her brand Reemami. “I always make and print my own fabrics,” says Al-Banna. “Sometimes I order a bit more than I need and then the leftover fabrics I use for headpieces, hats, and caps. I try to recycle it into accessories.” For her next season, she plans to use a patchwork of her old fabrics and designs to create pants, shirts, and dresses. “I will also incorporate embroidery by Palestinian refugees,” she adds. “Whenever I cut my fabrics, I use a zero-waste strategy, so we don’t have too much left over.”
Read Next: Is Renting Your Clothes Really More Sustainable?
Originally published in the November 2021 issue of Vogue Arabia