Spring 2021

Marni One-of-a-kind Coats Auctioned by Christie’s

Marni One-of-a-kind Coats Auctioned by Christie’s

MILAN — Marni’s fans and fashion collectors will have the chance to secure a range of one-of-a-kind pieces from the Milanese luxury label, which are part of a Christie’s auction open until June 23.
Featured in the British auction house’s “Jewels & Handbags Online: the London Edit” event, Marni’s selection includes four upcycled leather coats that were included in the brand’s “Marnifesto” spring 2021 collection.
The exclusive pieces are hand-painted with words and drawings inspired by exchanges that Marni creative director Francesco Rosso had with a range of artists and personalities during the pandemic that contributed to the creation of the designer’s collections over the years. They include multidisciplinary artist Mykki Blanco; actor and producer Jonah Hill; designer Michelle Elie; hairstylist, photographer and painter Julien d’Ys; stylist Camilla Nickerson and model Jess Maybury, among others.

“During the lockdown, I felt I wanted to launch a sort of ‘call to love,’ to make people feel less isolated,” said Risso. “So we created a sort of epistolary exchange and at a certain point I realized I had all these beautiful messages and drawings that I felt should have been embedded into the clothes creating a sort of link between individuals that have been apart for so long.”

One of the Marni one-of-a-kind coat auctioned by Christie’s. 
Courtesy of Marni

In a preview to WWD last September, the designer explained the collective value of the Marni spring 2021 lineup.
“This collection has been about the individual stories of all the people I work with, all their lives, their loves, their awakenings, my awakenings, the connections,” he said at that time. “I don’t feel like I want to make a statement with this collection. It’s not that during the lockdown I was thinking about [traditional inspirations], about the beautiful landscapes. It’s the opposite. This has been almost like a social experiment where the dialogue between me and the people I work with is central to construct this collection.”
To highlight the collective spirit of the lineup, the collection was presented via a digital show where a community of 48 friends of the house were filmed dressed in the “Marnifesto” outfits during their own activities.
“I think this auction is the perfect ending to this cycle,” said Risso, who also highlighted that for the first time through the Christie’s auction, the one-of-the-kind pieces that he always presents with his ready-to-wear collections will have the chance to get a commercial value. “People have always tended to discourage me from including this type of exclusive pieces in my shows, but this auction finally proves that they make totally sense. I believe that the world of luxury is going in that direction, people want exclusivity and uniqueness.”
The proceeds from the sale of the four coats will benefit the Alliance of Artists Communities, an international association promoting artist residencies, supporting the creative work of artists of different disciplines. Although the auction of the Marni items start at a reasonable 100 euros, Christie’s set an estimated value price ranging between 6,000 euros and 8,000 euros for each coat.
“This is only the first experiment of sales of our one-of-a-kind pieces,” Risso said, explaining that the brand is also working with other partners to develop other commercial activities.

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Fendi Gets Psychedelic for Summer 2021 Capsule

Fendi Gets Psychedelic for Summer 2021 Capsule

MILAN — Following the collaboration unveiled at the latest edition of Design Miami, Fendi teamed up again with New York-based visual artist Sarah Coleman, who cut her teeth next to archi-star Peter Marino and built a name for herself by manipulating designers’ materials to rethink everyday objects through an ironic filter.
The fruit of the partnership between Fendi accessories and men’s creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi and Coleman is a range of eye-catching products, from ready-to-wear to accessories, which have been collected in a summer 2021 capsule collection. The capsule will hit Fendi’s worldwide boutiques and the brand’s online store on May 13.
“Sarah has a great sense of artistic fun and clever irony. I was naturally drawn to her work and we first explored a collaboration with our Miami Design District boutique during Design Miami last December,” said Venturini Fendi. “We always love to partner with new designers who share the values of Fendi, yet with their own personal style. Sarah not only values craft, but challenges it with her subversive sense of humor, taking it into new directions.”

“My intention for the collection with Fendi was to be very playful and free. Silvia asked me to be ‘disruptive,’ to push the limits and get outside of the box, this gave me a huge amount of inspiration and confidence,” Coleman said. “She is so authentic to herself and the brand with a visionary’s perspective. I was so empowered by Silvia and the Fendi team to be myself. It was an incredible experience and I really cannot find words to express my gratitude.”

Fendi Summer 2021 Capsule 
Fendi Summer 2021 Capsule

In particular, Coleman offered her interpretation of the signature FF logo pattern that was twisted and turned, creating the FF vertigo motif. Coleman explained that she got inspired by the ’70s psychedelic aesthetic, which she mixed and matched with references coming from the brand’s archives. “[There] I found countless incredible images, materials, drawings and pieces that have made Fendi what it is today. Having access to explore and use this as inspiration was a major factor in what made this collection special for me,” the artist said. “I see logos as a neutral, you can bring them into anything and they work every time. The FF logo designed by Karl Lagerfeld is so timeless. It’s beautiful, it’s transformative, it just goes with every flow, which is why it has stood the test of time. There is nothing trendy about it. It is art, design, architecture, movement, all in one. It can be used in so many different ways, it can be played with, it can be changed, but at its core, it’s always this powerfully iconic print.”
In the accessories range, the FF Vertigo is printed or embossed on a range of leather bags, rendered in a summer yellow and blue palette. Standouts include the new Baguette 1997, a reedition of the legendary bag style designed by Venturini Fendi, featuring slim sides and a flappable handle, as well as new interpretations of the Peekaboo ISeeU design, now available also in a version for men, as well as in a smaller size.
Splashed on rtw pieces for women, men and children, the FF Vertigo motif also pops up on the featherweight Fendi Force high-top sneakers and on the collection of timepieces, showing the strap in calfskin leather or stainless steel. The watches are embellished with another pattern created by Coleman, the FF Fisheye, where the FF logo gets wavy, as if it’s being seen though a fish-eye lens.

A rendering of the Fendi Caffè at Miami Design District 
Courtesy of Fendi

Celebrating the joy of the summer season and life outdoors, Fendi and Coleman used their FF Vertigo print on limited-edition items developed in collaboration with specialists. The capsule includes a customized Vintage Polaroid OneStep Close-Up 600 instant camera; a bento box developed with Alessi, as well as a tent and a men’s technical backpack produced by Ferrino.
The Fendi summer 2021 capsule also channels a ’90s intentionally kitschy vibe by presenting a selection of Baguette 1997 bags decorated with bold sequins and intricate floral embroideries.
To celebrate the launch of the collection, Fendi has planned a series of pop-up shops and Fendi Caffé locations across the globe in key locations, including Miami Design District, Shanghai and Milan, where the brand is opening a customized temporary coffee shop at Rinascente’s department store.

Salvatore Ferragamo Explores New Ways to Engage Younger Consumers

Salvatore Ferragamo Explores New Ways to Engage Younger Consumers

Salvatore Ferragamo is giving a boost to its digital innovation process by entering the world of gaming.
The Florentine luxury company is debuting an online game, available at its official web site, which invites consumers to discover the brand’s spring 2021 collection, as well as some of the fashion house’s most iconic items and elements.
Called “Enigma,” the digital game engages players asking them to solve four enigmas, while exploring several locations in Milan, which served as the set of the short movie that Luca Guadagnino filmed to present Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring collection. Inspired by the short film, which in itself was inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s movies, the game enables players to wear the shoes of a detective, looking for clues around the streets of Milan, which are rendered through sophisticated graphics.

Salvatore Ferragamo’s “Enigma” online game. 
Salvatore Ferragamo’s “Enigma” Online Game

“Enigma stems from an idea of enriching the interaction between Ferragamo and the public, increasing the brand’s capacity to engage also with new generations, using the universal language of playing,” said Salvatore Ferragamo chief executive officer Micaela le Divelec Lemmi. “It is an innovative ambitious digital experience that not only reveals the spring-summer 2021 collection, but also aims to create a dynamic engagement with the players who, thanks to simple moves, can choose to penetrate the Ferragamo universe using the touch points, both digital and physical, they are most familiar with.” 
The launch of Enigma is part of a wider strategy developed by the company to increase its visibility online and to engage with the new generations of consumers.
Salvatore Ferragamo, which has recently renovated its website, was one of the first luxury brands that at the outbreak of the pandemic in 2020 had already developed a compelling digital showroom in collaboration with Hyphen. In addition, last October, the brand, which also offers virtual tours of its brick-and-mortar stores, launched Tremezza Made To Order, a customization project dedicated to the Tremezza men’s shoe collection developed through Microsoft’s cloud computing and mixed reality technologies.
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Exclusive: H&M’s Spring 2021 Collection Offers Sustainable, Chic and Easy Tailoring for Everyday

Exclusive: H&M’s Spring 2021 Collection Offers Sustainable, Chic and Easy Tailoring for Everyday

H&M’s sustainable Spring 2021 collection features wearable sports-inspired tailoring
The ’90s, a decade of girl power (thank you, Spice Girls), dial-up Internet, seriously beautiful supermodels and the slinky slip dress. Sustainability (in fashion or otherwise), was definitely not dominating the zeitgeist. Fast-forward to 2021 and Calvin Klein minimalism is once again hitting the mainstream but this time, thankfully, there’s an eco-friendly focus.
Responsible for up to 10% of annual global carbon emissions, the fashion industry is making too many clothes (to put it very simply) and we, the consumer, are buying them, wearing them a handful of times and disposing of them the moment a new trend takes to the runway. But things are steadily changing and brands – from designer to high-street – have begun to reevaluate everything from timeless design to the materials they use and the size and frequency of new collection drops. Add to this a more mindful approach to buying and a circular fashion system is almost in sight.
H&M Spring 2021
With their Looop initiative (a machine that shreds old garments into new ones over the course of five hours), and Conscious Collections (including pieces made of materials from upcycled waste), H&M have invested wisely in sustainability practices, trialing natural fibers and kinder dyeing processes in their drive to use only 100% recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030. For Spring, they’ve taken it one step further by utilizing Agraloop BioFibre (a high-quality natural fiber derived from food-crop waste) and undyed organic cottons and denim to create a capsule of effortlessly versatile wardrobe basics.
The new collection includes cropped hoodie’s and loungewear shorts with drawstring details
Pared down tailoring, including a single-breasted blazer, a classic trench coat and a slip dress with ruching detail nods to the aforementioned ’90s resurgence and yet, there’s an elevated attention to detail that comes with timeless design; and a neutral color palette of beige, grey and black to give everything extra longevity.
The ’90s are back: one of the key pieces of the collection is this simple black slip dress
To mark the collection’s launch – of which 65% is recycled, organic, natural or sustainably sourced – H&M are going big, and by that we mean they are taking over the world’s tallest building, Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, with a light show at 7.20pm on Wednesday March 24. Make a note in your diary, now.
H&M’s Spring 2021 collection will be available to buy online, through the H&M App and at selected H&M stores across the Middle East from March 25
Read Next: What is the Role of Fashion and Creativity, Post-Pandemic?

Palm Angels Goes Analog to Present Spring 2021 Collection

Palm Angels Goes Analog to Present Spring 2021 Collection

Everything started with a book, and now, six years later, a book marks an important milestone for Palm Angels once again.
Back in September 2014, Rizzoli published a photographic book collecting images of Venice Beach skateboarders shot by the brand’s founder Francesco Ragazzi. With a preface by Pharrell Williams, the tome was titled “Palm Angels” and served as the catalyst for Ragazzi’s launch of the titular fashion project.
Now, Ragazzi has teamed with Rizzoli again to release a limited-edition book zine, that not only celebrates the launch of the brand’s spring 2021 men’s and women’s collections, but also offers an insightful look into the elevated streetwear label.

Palm Angels founder and creative director Francesco Ragazzi  Courtesy of Palm Angels

“I think this book shows where we are going with the brand,” said Ragazzi, during a Zoom call from his office in the Milan headquarters of NGG, the group controlled by Farfetch, which operates Palm Angels, along with Off-White, Ambush, Alanui, Opening Ceremony, Heron Preston, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Kirin Peggy Gou and Ben Taverniti Unravel Project. “We lived the past six months immersed in a digital dimension and I feel that what we are really starting to miss are emotions. I have the feeling that things are just happening and then immediately disappearing. That’s why I wanted to create something tangible, something that you can have in your hands, place on your table and enjoy again and again, every time you want.”

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However, while the book, with an introduction by Dazed & Confused founder and editor in chief Isabella Burley, lives in a physical dimension, its layout owes a lot to the digital social media culture, in particular to Instagram.
“It’s a sort of Instagram feed where different things are juxtaposed, the high and the low, the established and the upcoming,” said Ragazzi, referring to the fact that the volume is comprised of a mix of images and graphics by a wide, diverse network of international creatives.
Photographer David Sims and stylist Karl Templer are the high-profile duo behind the impactful fashion pictures depicting Palm Angels’ spring 2021 collection. “They brought us a new vision, a new energy, a new point of view on our collections,” said Ragazzi, adding that those images will also appear on billboards and advertising pages.
Along with Sims’ pictures, the book also collects low-fi shots of the Palm Angels team in Milan taken by London-based photographer Rosie Marks; other fashion pictures by South African artist Lea Colombo; dark room experimentation by 86-year-old Roman photographer Enzo Ragazzini; artworks by abstract painters Friedrich Kunath and Thrush Holmes; as well as archival graphic efforts by Javier Jaén and Javier Calleja.
A look from Palm Angels spring 2021 collection.  Courtesy of Palm Angels

Ragazzi highlights the creative pastiche he wanted to create with a quote to introduce the first section of the book: “We are not our thoughts, but we can ride with them. Let them grow in your mind, stand out and attract love and energies, floating in the wind. Make them flow, like sparks of creative chaos that defy the status quo,” he wrote.
Organized in three sections, the zine has a similar structure to the Palm Angels spring 2021 collection, which features three different drops. While “Military” hits stores this month, “Fishing Club” will be available for consumers starting from mid March and the third, “Exodus,” will be on sale in May.

This commercial strategy, anchoring the official presentation of the collections to their deliveries to stores, reflects what NGG chief executive officer Andrea Grilli discussed with WWD back in June about the new release of the Off-White lineups. “The goal is to continue to trigger the emotions associated with the presentation of the collections — whatever the format — but also to immediately satisfy the desire to shop with deliveries and drops every month,” Grilli said. “In this fast-paced modern world, the lapse of four to five months between the show and the arrival of merchandise in stores was disconnected from the real needs of the consumer.”
If the license of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White continues to be the crown jewel in the NGG portfolio, Palm Angels is quickly and constantly growing, not only in terms of popularity, but also commercially. “Palm Angels is among the 10 best performing brands on Farfetch,” said Ragazzi, who stressed that importance of the role of the British-Portuguese digital player in the growth of the brand. “Even if we cannot release figures, I can tell you that in 2020 our business grew,” Ragazzi said. “The main reasons are three, I believe: first, Palm Angels collections are highly approachable, we sell products that you feel OK with buying also during a lockdown to wear at home; second, the brand is strong; third, having a digital player like Farfetch as business partner really helped us a lot.”
A look from Palm Angels spring 2021 collection.  Courtesy of Palm Angels

And Ragazzi thinks that the growth potential is exponential. Indeed, men’s wear currently accounts for the majority of Palm Angels’ sales. “I see great potential in women’s wear, accessories, sneakers,” said Ragazzi, who highlighted that 2021 will be key for the future of the brand. “This year we aim to catapult the brand into a new dimension,” he said, also referring to the retail debut of the brand, which expects to open stores in the U.S. and Europe. “This year we have the opening of at least two boutiques in the pipeline,” he revealed.
See also: 
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