Prada

For Chinese Valentine’s Day, Creating Nuanced Campaigns Wins the Day

For Chinese Valentine’s Day, Creating Nuanced Campaigns Wins the Day

SHANGHAI — Chinese Valentine’s day, or Qixi Festival, is the third love-themed festival in the China market, after the real Valentine’s Day and 520.Qixi stems from the Han Dynasty mythology that celebrated the tale of the Cowherd and the Weaver Girl, who could only reunite on the Milky Way once a year.
From early July to Aug. 4, which is the day of Qixi Festival, top luxury brands gradually released Qixi capsules and visuals that bring a refreshing take on the topic.
As COVID-19-related lockdown measures in key markets eased, Qixi “may also be the first festival that many couples are celebrating together this year,” said Pablo Mauron, partner and managing director of China at Digital Luxury Group. “This also gives brands a key opportunity to develop marketing messages that emotionally resonate with the audience.”

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Dior tapped its China ambassador Yi Lin and friend of the house Yihan Sun, to star in campaigns that featured the Dior Jardin, Lucky Dior and Rose Dior Couture jewelry collections. A wide range of products, including the popular Book Tote and Lady Dior handbag, were featured.
Louis Vuitton turned to supermodel Cong He and its mascots Vivienne and Gaston to front a Qixi campaign washed over in pastel. The collection featured playful items in the handbag, fashion accessories and watch categories. Louis Vuitton also launched a WeChat Mini Program blind box game and a mascot-themed Qixi sticker collection for the occasion.
Captured by Anders Edström in Milan, Prada featured Chinese models Shuping Li and Liren Shi rubbing shoulders in a deserted cityscape, only matching gold handbags and accessories, gray and white outfits indicate they are about to meet.
Highlighting handbag products was of prominence for a number of luxury brands.
Maison Margiela enlisted Nowness to create a dreamy story called “Pillowery Confessions” around its classic Glam Slam handbag. Themed “I love you, but I’ve chosen Versace,” the Italian luxury brand chose to highlight the Greca Goddess handbag for Qixi in youthful peach blossom pink. Ferragamo featured Chinese singer and actress Jing Fu toting the iconic Trifolio handbag in red.
“Unlike local shopping events such as 618 or Double 11, events like Qixi and 520 are not typically associated with promotional activities, which provides brands with a good window to communicate about new products and festival-exclusive collections, instead of focusing on discounts,” Mauron said.
Thus, for some luxury and fashion players, pushing out a campaign that doesn’t explicitly mention Qixi, but can reroute attention to specific key product offerings became the objective. Saint Laurent showed a summer-friendly collection called “La Piscine & Sunkissed” featuring fashion and lifestyle products including a surfboard, bath towels and swimwear.
For other luxury players, creating a nuanced regional campaign around romance became just as crucial as selling Qixi-related capsules this year.
In the case of Bottega Veneta, which Matthieu Blazy took over as creative director this March, Qixi became an occasion to wax poetic about the diversity of love.

In a “Call Me By Your Name”-style video set in the seaside city of Qingdao in Shandong province, Chinese videographer Jess Zhou and photographer Meng Zhi captured three pairs of real-life partners roaming around town on bikes, dressed in palettes of black, white, cream or green Bottega Veneta pieces, which goes well with the natural splendor of the resort town.
Titled “Love, In Motion,” the campaign featured two pairs of same-sex couples, whom casting director Denise Hu discovered on Xiaohongshu, the popular social-commerce app. The brand gifted bike bells to VIP clients in sync with the biking-themed visuals.
Mauron thinks luxury brands have to act as cultural trailblazers in the market “to guide narratives instead of merely following marketing trends,” he said.
“Despite the fact that China’s social landscape is quite different from that of the West, luxury brands are delivering inclusive messages in order to strengthen their connections with certain segments of consumers who were previously overlooked by the mainstream market over the last few decades,” Mauron said.
To understand love or human relationships in the digitized future, Balenciaga revealed a Qixi campaign with a dystopian twist. Featuring robots produced by Engineered Arts Limited, a U.K.-based company specializing in humanoid robots, and photographed by Andrea Artemisio, Balenciaga’s simple point-and-shoot visual amplified a sense of hyper-reality. “Models” were dressed in Qixi Crest caps and T-shirts that featured a cupid figurine, Qixi Hearts-printed garments, and they carried pink mini hourglass bags.
Exploring a different side of Qixi, the Chinese-owned French luxury house Lanvin’s campaign moved away from the unrequited love of the beloved folk tale to present a collection that celebrates sisterhood, which can be just as romantic.
Lanvin retold an older version of the Qixi story, when young girls gathered and worshipped the moon, praying they could adapt dexterous sewing skills, a virtue for women at the time. The collection featured illustrations collaged with Qixi design elements, such as pearls and daisies. The capsule consists of fashion jewelry, logo tote bags, a quilted Happy Bag and apparel.

Prada Hits the Hamptons

Prada Hits the Hamptons

Prada has joined the proliferation of luxury brands in the Hamptons.
In the heart of the village of East Hampton, Prada on Friday opened a permanent, 1,600-square-foot shop situated at 2 Newtown Lane. It’s the first time the Italian luxury brand has opened a store in the Hamptons, representatives from the company confirmed.
The building is “sober and elegant in keeping with its surroundings, while the interior is framed by a sequence of large windows,” the company said in a statement provided to WWD.
Prada’s ivory and green stripes, also seen in certain of the luxury brand’s other locations, cover the walls, floors and furniture, and there is a green neon sign that provides a fresh interpretation of the Prada triangle logo.
The store houses the men’s and women’s collections of ready-to-wear, leather goods, footwear and accessories and also showcases a special summer-inspired grouping.
Newtown Lane and Main Street comprise the village’s primary shopping venues. Aside from Prada, there are shops for Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, Altuzarra, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana, J. Crew and Intermix, among other brands.
In other Hamptons openings, Chanel in June unveiled a boutique in East Hampton, at 26 Newtown Lane that will remain open through Labor Day. Spanning two floors, the boutique offers bags, small leather goods, accessories, watches and fine jewelry creations, and modern silhouettes from the Coco Beach 2022 and Métiers d’Arts 2022-23 collections by Virginie Viard.
Intermix has a pop-up operating through July 24 at Ruschmeyers in Montauk, in addition to the retailer’s two permanent stores in Southampton and East Hampton. The pop up offers summer essentials from brands such as Isabel Marant, CaraCara, Staud, Agua by Agua Bendita, Re/Done, Bond Eye and Bahia Maria.

Prada in East Hampton, New York. Photograph by Brett Beyer

The Relaxed Suit Rules Milan for Spring 2023

The Relaxed Suit Rules Milan for Spring 2023

MILAN —  “It was terrific to be back in Milan.”The comment from Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, echoed the general sentiment of retailers in the city, after the mainly digital menswear shows of recent seasons due to the pandemic. Pask said Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which closed on Tuesday, “really highlighted the best of Italian menswear. We saw the real strength of collections that epitomize the craftsmanship, creativity and supreme quality of the ‘made in Italy’ moniker. There was an assertion of brands here doing what they do best, representing tradition with great development and forward thinking. There was lightness and fluidity, a casual elegance to a lot of the collections we saw, and a real assertion of spring seasonality that was refreshing.”

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To be sure, while a return of tailoring was welcomed by retailers, designers opted for a more modern, nonchalant take on suits, often offered as separates. Soft fabrics and comfort were key, as was lightness and a sense of freedom and ease. “There’s an underlying message about having fun getting dressed again,” said Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom Inc. men’s fashion and editorial director.
Denim is back, washed and faded and in a new relaxed version — no sign of stretch or body-hugging styles anywhere. Refreshing color palettes and plenty of Bermuda shorts contributed to the summery feel of the looks. Trends included fuller proportions, light knitwear and innovative luxurious fabrics.
Retailers relished the experience of Zegna’s show at the company’s headquarters with a view of Oasi Zegna and Prada’s always innovative set, which added excitement to the events. The two brands — together with Fendi, Versace and Brioni — were also among the favorites of the season.
Here is a roundup of what buyers had to say:
Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a highly anticipated show that signified the importance of a timeless collection. There was a perfect balance of youthfulness and fundamental dressing. Suits were sharp and tailored, and overcoats were red-checkered and playful. Ms. Prada and Mr. Simons provided us with the best wardrobe choices for spring, from striped knitwear to denim shirting and shorts. The collection, walked against a backdrop famed by architect Rem Koolhaas, provided an environment that was equally as elegant and timeless. Versace showcased a collection filled with powerful and self-expressive pieces that signified Donatella’s return and commitment to menswear. The Zegna collection was a testament to the beauty, journey and interrelation of fashion and sustainability. Silvia Fendi’s collection for Fendi felt highly wearable with the incorporation of directional patterns and fabrications that honored familiar menswear silhouette codes.
Best presentation concept: Kiton, Canali and Santoni.
Trendspotting: We are seeing trends reflect the evolution of the post-pandemic wardrobe. The customer is looking to return to the art of dressing without losing the touch of comfort they have learned to appreciate, which was seen in key trends such as soft tailoring, deconstructed blazers, updated formalwear, silk shirting, denim wovens, open knitwear, relaxed denim pants, short suits, crochet, linen blends, technical and terry fabrications, rubber clogs, double bags and lanyard bags.

Santoni, spring 2023
Courtesy image/Santoni

Must-have item: A relaxed linen blend double-breasted sport coat.
General comment on the season: Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week was a celebration of charisma, casual elegance, modern tailoring and sustainably-minded collections. With the heat wave in Milan, our team was even more attentive and excited to experience the spring 2023 shows and presentations. An overall sense of happiness, ease and lightness was seen throughout the collections, such as JW Anderson and Giorgio Armani. Linen blends, relaxed silhouettes, and sporty yet sophisticated, technical pieces took center stage with refreshing color palettes like powder blue, mellow-yellow, neon green and pink incorporated throughout. The week overall represented a positive return of men’s fashion and felt like a stamp of approval for a new era of menswear.
Bosse Myhr, Selfridges director of menswear and womenswear

Favorite collections: JW Anderson’s arrival in Milan was certainly a highlight. The collection featured a variety of abstract looks that looked fantastic against the disused factory backdrop.
Best presentation concept: The Prada show setup is always hard to beat. A giant supersized paper house provided an excellent and beautiful backdrop for the collection. Also, the Zegna presentation outside Milan. It was on the roof of the Zegna factory. Just at sunset models started to walk out and showed a beautiful elegant collection with sneakers looking exceptional.
Trendspotting: It’s time to dust off those tailored jacket as there is definitely a more sophisticated and structured approach this season that we observed. Sharply tailored suits and mix-and-match jackets are probably the must have this season. The other trend we sensed was Venice Beach, Dsquared2 being a prime example.
Buying process: It was hot this season — temperatures reached 40 degrees Celsius [104 degrees Fahrenheit] at some shows. However, after two years of mainly video presentations and remote buying, it for sure is great to be back in person.
General comment on the season: Milan put up a great show overall.
Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom men’s fashion and editorial director
Favorite collections: The electric brights at Versace were an early standout, as well as the use of the house’s signature ceramics as high-end accessories. Prada’s reimagining of menswear pieces like trenchcoats and Harrington jackets in Western-esque ginghams that were complemented by their new cowboy boots [stodd out]. Our Legacy’s relaxed take on tailoring and innovative interpretations of denim looked especially great this season. Zegna’s imaginative tailoring and new footwear collaboration with Mr. Bailey — shown in the heart of Oasi Zegna — showed why it’s one of the most exciting Italian brands we’re working with at the moment.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s paper runway built inside the Fondazione Prada was a sight to behold.
Trendspotting: Cobalt blue is definitely a statement color making a prominent comeback. The influence of the 1970s on louche tailoring, wovens and trousers is only reinforced by the recent announcement that Harry Styles will be working on a collection with Gucci inspired by the era’s rockers.
Must-have item: A New York Knicks-inspired check suit made from a recycled cotton blend from Angelo Urrutia’s 4SDesigns.
General comment on the season: Spring 2023 reflects a relaxed approach to tailoring and new ways for men to look as elegant as ever.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Fendi’s fresh take on denim, with fringed jean shorts, tote bags, pullovers and fuller-legged five pockets was great. Breezy, fluid tailoring with center vents split right up the back worn with shorts gave the collection an easy sophistication. Brioni’s collection was the epitome of the quiet elegance we’ve seen this season, with an airiness to the impeccably soft tailoring and sportswear that was styled with such appealing personality. Kiton’s innovative, luxurious tailored fabrications, chic silhouettes and relaxed knit pairings were a highlight of their first fashion week evening celebration. I really enjoyed the bright saturated colors, soft fabrics and bold, wearable outfit combinations at Massimo Alba. Altea was also a favorite, with great easy sportswear pieces in soft cotton and linen in colorful dyes, prints and vivid solids.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show held atop the roof of the company’s lanificio in the heart of the Oasi Zegna nature preserve in the hills outside of Milan was truly an unforgettable experience. Alessandro Sartori continued his explorations of proportion and the ease of monochromatic uniform dressing in a properly monumental way, all as the sun just crested the hill. An honorable mention must go to Brioni for its tranquil garden setting at a theological university that was the perfect environment to highlight the lightness, comfort and craftsmanship of Norbert Stumpfl’s elegant collection. Beautifully styled mannequins were placed throughout the courtyard in small groups engaged with each other, heads tilted as if in conversation, with great personality. Drapery shading the walkways gently rippled in the breeze, adding to the airy feeling of the clothing.
Trendspotting: We’re seeing an emphasis on easier, fuller proportions with dropped shoulders and wider-legged pants, especially denim, often puddling over footwear, making a big statement. Linen, a warm weather staple, has been a dominant fabrication in a variety of weights and treatments, in most silhouettes in a wide color palette. Tailoring had a significant presence throughout the collections, especially in lightweight, deconstructed “barely there” jackets styled in relaxed, elegant ways and including a strong component of eveningwear. There has also been a welcome increase in the presence of neckties in dressed up sartorial looks. Bold, saturated color and strong patterns as well as contrasting softer pale, neutral shades, especially in tones of muted greens, were fresh and appealing. We’ve seen a growing presence of casual dress footwear especially in flexible loafers and varieties of slip-ons that will be perfect to add to our customers’ spring options.

Prada, men’s spring 2023
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Must-have item: A Prada checked trenchcoat, a boldly colored plaid sport jacket from Kiton, Fendi denim jeans and shorts, a pale linen suit or sport jacket from Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni’s unconstructed navy seersucker suit, a great jacquard evening jacket, and suede slip-ons.
Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion

Favorite collections: Prada was an absolute standout. From the Koolhaas paper set to the outerwear and the boots, it was Raf and Ms. Prada at their strongest. Etro’s sensual approach with transparency, perforations and breezy fabrics was a memorable swan song.
Best presentation concept: They’ve worked together for 18 years, but Koolhaas’ “resistance to luxury” set at Prada was thought-provoking and the pair continue to push concepts together each season.
Trendspotting: Fantastic outerwear and leather shorts at Prada, louche shirting at Etro.
Must-have item: Wales Bonner belted trench, Wales Bonner denim, basically everything from Wales Bonner and the Prada boot. Oh, and Wales Bonner’s shoes!
General comment on the season: As we felt with Pitti where Wales Bonner stepped it up, there’s a feeling of renaissance this season — looking forward to seeing what we have to come in Paris. We love the elevated mood so far, this will talk directly to the Matchesfashion man.
Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: This is our first season back in Milan for the men’s shows, and we could not be more thrilled to be here. Broadly, what I have found interesting is the way each brand has responded to the pandemic, each focusing on their individual approach to meet customer needs. For example, one of the key parts of the conversation is the power of choice; men have more opportunity for individual expression and personal styling than ever before. This was the focus at Prada, where they offered up a little something for everyone — slick tailoring, beautifully washed denim, a wider range of outerwear, and a very cool new sneaker. While perhaps stylistically best known for celebratory apparel that’s ready for the party (and ready everyone is, now) Versace’s bold and brash Saturday evening show was a riotous blast of energy that quirkily brought homewares to the runway. Given the success of the category over the past couple of years, and the brand’s unique presence in the market, it was savvy reminder of their breadth of offer. And finally, with the trip up to the Oasi Zegna, the brand reminded attendees that they have long been focused on environmental causes — their founder began acquiring and preserving the land around his mills more than 100 years ago. Of course, the collection itself also addressed many of the new ideas that intersect tailoring and workwear that are coming to the forefront as people return to the office.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show on top of their fabric mills offered incredible views alongside a stunning collection; it was an experience that I am sure many will not soon forget.
Trendspotting: The prevalence of tailoring on the runway speaks to the customer’s need for a great suit right now; whether he’s going back to the office, attending a wedding, or simply just wants to dress up for a night on the town, he’s on the hunt. Denim was another consistent theme of the week with great variations at Fendi, Prada and Dolce [& Gabbana]. Shades of the sunset and the desert (rusty oranges, ochre, mustard) were also quite prevalent in resortwear, as was terry cloth. And finally in footwear, we saw the return of more formal styles, skate-inspired sneaker shapes, and the mule.

Must-have item: Prada’s outerwear offer was absolutely incredible this season, with many great options in both solids and checks. I also personally loved Massimo Alba’s double-breasted jackets — rendered in stunning and light linen blends.
General comment on the season: More than anything, it is truly so wonderful to be back in Milan and to see the city exploding with new ideas and energy. Both the legacy tailoring brands and the fashion houses stepped up to the plate with robust collections that we’re excited to offer the Bloomingdale’s customer this season.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada’s return to simplicity with the slim-cut suit and classic iterations of the Macintosh jacket proved to offer a variety of choices to the customer for this spring. With denim, leathers and hits of gingham, the collection was a standout. Versace’s exciting collection of iconic silk prints paired with fluid tailored trousers and jackets is what everyone will want to wear come spring — with a Versace Casa vase in arm, natch. Brunello Cucinelli’s strong showing of the new suit signaled the return of suiting up again — but this time, your way. Whether styled with a sneaker or a suede espadrille, tailoring has been updated for today’s modern man.

Best presentation concept: Traveling to Oasi Zegna outside of Milan to celebrate the direction of the collection with Alessandro Sartori was an immersive experience into the world of Zegna. The backdrop of the collection truly exemplified the power of the brand.
Trendspotting: The suit is back. A key trend of the week was tailored fluidity in washed silks and summer-weight wool fabrics. From Etro, Giorgio Armani and Brioni, the silhouette for spring is loose and relaxed with an effortless nonchalant ease. Structured denim from Prada and Fendi proves to be a staple for summer. The sustainable iterations from Prada were standouts. The reedition releases of iconic silhouettes and styles from the late ‘90s and early 2000s. As shown by Dolce & Gabbana, the success of archive collections are reinterpreted for today.
Must-have item: The fringed raffia tote from Fendi. A gingham coat from Prada. A linen suit from Brunello Cucinelli. A suede espadrille loafer from Tod’s.
Buying process: Our teams are working through a hybrid buying schedule, but we have prioritized the key European market dates for in-person appointments.
General comment on the season: We are leaving Milan invigorated and energized for what’s to come for the men’s customer this upcoming spring. Throughout the week, designers showcased a strong product offering that will empower a life of self-expression for everyone, which we believe will translate through our own buys.
Raphael Deray, buyer men ready-to-wear luxury and designers for retail and e-commerce at Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada and JW Anderson were my favorites. The first one had a strong nostalgic vibe with very short-shorts, slim tailoring, leather and denim full outfits. It all looked very simple but the details and colors were amazing! JW Anderson was more of an art performance rather than a clothes presentation, and it was great. Also loved the Our Legacy look book.

Best presentation concept: JW Anderson, no doubts. We got to see some looks before the show even started with models as statues at the entrance in a theatrical way. The show was also amazing with art pieces rather than clothes to, in my opinion, address modern subjects. Jonathan looked at the influence of youth culture with the BMX and skateboarding, overconsumption with the bar codes, COVID-19 over the last years with the QR code knit and more.
Trendspotting: Definitely a big trend on pieces that expose the body. Almost every collection had several see-through pieces or cutouts making the hips/chest visible. Versace, 1017 Alyx 9SM, JW Anderson, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana…all of them. Leather was also trendy with loads of full looks, trousers, jackets. Finally, pop colors with some touches of neon yellow, sky blue, deep pink.
Must-have item: Feet jewelry (thanks Etro) for this summer and Santiags (thanks Prada)!
Budgets: Up! Not only because we are optimistic after COVID-19, but because cost and prices went up as well.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Fendi’s denim hues laid the base for an impactful color story throughout and only enhanced the sporty and relaxed feel. This aesthetic extended into touches of tailoring, textured fabrics and accessories and head-to-toe coordinated looks ensured this collection was a roaring success. A monumental Etro show to celebrate the final collection of Kean Etro as creative director, after a triumphant 30 years at the helm. A celebration of print, embroidery and fabrication that epitomizes Etro, and makes you long to be on a sun-soaked holiday in the Mediterranean — the coastal holiday wardrobe perfected! Zegna, a real standout for me in in the schedule; a collection full of modern sophistication and clean style, from pared-back tailoring in rich fabrics to more casual, athletic aesthetics.
Best presentation concept: The location and the collection played equal parts in ensuring Zegna had the standout presentation of the week. The rooftop of their historic headquarters and picturesque mountain-scape surroundings set the scene for a truly elevated and elegant collection.
Trendspotting: Washed and faded denim was seen in almost every collection, Fendi and Prada were the masters of the trend and I expect to be the go-to denim for next season. Leather: from Prada’s micro shorts to JW Anderson’s basketball shorts and trenchcoats at Fendi — leather has solidified itself as a true staple and is here to stay. From bold colors to muted tones, tailoring reigned supreme this week. The trend was largely seen in loose and fluid silhouettes, from masters such as Zegna and Brioni. Of course, there was a presence of sharp and fitted styles, Prada’s show was proof — if it were ever needed — that the suit is here to stay, where pared-back, clean black tailoring completely dominated the collection. The warm Milanese weather paired with a wash of linens, light knits and sheer fabrics gave the week a strong holiday vibe; a return to the coastal capsule wardrobe. Etro and Emporio Armani displayed this perfectly and it will be a huge success come summer next year.
Must-have item: Double, triple and even quadruple denim.
General comment on the season: Milan menswear returns to strength: from the headline shows to the static presentations, the brands showcased strong collections that were founded in the brands’ unique DNAs. From luxury fashion to sartorial tour de force.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Fendi, Prada, JW Anderson, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, MSGM, Emporio Armani, Dsquared2 and Marcelo Burlon. Among the younger brands: Magliano and JordanLuca.
Best presentation concept: Zegna treated us to a visit to Oasi Zegna, which was a spectacular way to end the week. The show took place on the company’s original wool mill rooftop. A master of the color palette, Sartori made us appreciate Zegna’s precious fabrics in the flourishing natural background of Oasi Zegna.
Trendspotting: The collections showed many references to a sophisticated man, with a marked returned to tailoring, which we saw mainly in relaxed cuts up to Prada’s more formal slim suits. The heat in Milan was the main topic of small talk, and was the perfect background for the many beach/vacation ensembles that we saw on the catwalk, from shirt and boxer sets to flowy caftans, to open-work knits, proposed in the ever-present muted neutrals. The more directional brands went for an acid-techno infused inspiration, where music and events in town played a big part in the narration. Strong colors like acid yellow, bubblegum pink, Klein blue, purple, psychedelic prints were all over the collections and spoke to a younger clientele in search of fun, positive energy and aggregation. Lots of denim, also in sets, and tough black versus strong white for genderless looks.
Must-have item: Prada’s car coat in one of the many gingham iterations will be next fashion week’s uniform for the street-style crowd. For shoes, Fendi offered plenty from which to choose, from the suede summer moccasins to the logo-embossed rubber slides. For the beach-inspired looks the must-have piece is the sarong, as seen at Dsquared2, or a shirt and boxer poplin set, as seen at MSGM. The hat will be a styling essential, from wide-brim straw explorer hats to fun crochet caps. With reference to tailoring, the best seen were Prada’s crispy suits and Fendi’s tailoring separates, continuing the cropped proportion (I loved the cropped sleeves blazer and Bermuda ensemble). The prize for the most fun styling prop goes to Versace’s homeware porcelain pieces perfectly complementing the rich colorful looks.

Versace, men’s spring 2023
Aïtor Rosas Suñe / WWD

Budgets: We have been recording a very positive summer season in all of our stores thanks to a tourism boost. We expect a strong growth in the 2023 spring season and are investing accordingly.
Buying process: Since the beginning of the sales campaign we are back to buying in the showroom, even though we have kept a mix of digital and physical appointments that is quite efficient in terms of time management and traveling.

General comment on the season: Starting with Milan Design Week, followed by Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week, we have seen a very positive energy in the city and in brands and buyers around town. The same energy could be seen in cheerful collections that speak to a younger client and make us forget for a moment about war or the never-ending pandemic.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director, Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg
Favorite collections: Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Kiton.
Best presentation concept: Zegna. It was really interesting to bring all the guests to the roots of the brand and at the same time see the evolution that Alessandro Sartori brought to the brand. I also liked a lot Dolce & Gabbana’s fashion show, which brought back the memories of all their previous collections and it was a great trip through the iconic styles of the brand.
Trendspotting: Suit, suit, suit. Let’s go back to the well-dressed man. It can be really advanced in style as Prada or more iconic as Kiton, but for sure the suit is back. Brunello Cucinelli has been pushing for already two seasons the desire of men to get back to the suit and even this presentation was all focused on that.
Must-have item: Santoni’s colorful shoes. I can’t complete the look without having a masterpiece of Italian craftsmanship — a pair of Santoni shoes.
General comment on the season: I think [it was a] breath of fresh air out of any COVID-19 memory. The excitement around the fashion week is back and I am really happy about that.

Prada, UNESCO Unveil Ocean-focused Education Program for Toddlers in Venice

Prada, UNESCO Unveil Ocean-focused Education Program for Toddlers in Venice

VENICE, Italy — The latest initiative of the joint effort between Prada Group and UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission to raise awareness of, and promote, more responsible behavior toward the oceans intends to educate toddlers aged three to six in order to shape their future sustainable inclinations.Part of the Sea Beyond educational program jumpstarted in 2019, the newest initiative— called “Kindergarten of the Lagoon” and based on the principles of outdoor education — was unveiled Wednesday at Ca’ Corner della Regina here, the historic home to Fondazione Prada in the lagoon.
“My priority is to lead the group through a more sustainable next decade, not only from an economic standpoint, but also [to act on] the cultural, social and environmental pillars,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, head of corporate social responsibility at the Prada Group.

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Developed by the Sea Beyond scientific committee, the education program will be presented to Venice kindergartens and families with kids in the target age group to eventually kick off as a pilot next September.
Its syllabus is based on the integration of indoor and outdoor education, with the ambition to help toddlers discover the lagoon, its flora and fauna, understand the factors contributing to sustainability and acquire an inter- and trans-disciplinary approach.
“The entire syllabus is based on the spread of the ecology culture and aimed at spurring a sense of belonging to the territory via multisensory activities,” explained Francesca Milan, an expert on environmental education and a member of the scientific committee.
According to Fabio Pranovi, professor at Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University and also part of the committee, the project will help students reconnect with the environment and discover the possibilities of integrated sustainability since the mind-set shift he is expecting from younger generations is understanding that responsible behavior is ultimately linked to the survival of the human species.
The project, which has received the support of local institutions, was described as an ongoing commitment by Bertelli. “When you address education and culture you ought to be patient, it requires time and the fruits will be harvested in the next 10 to 20 years,” he said.
He described the Sea Beyond project and the latest initiative as direct expressions of Prada Group’s and his family’s values. “If I had not been raised and given the education I did, when I joined the company in 2017, I would have never launched the Re-Nylon or the Sea Beyond project,” he said.
Sea Beyond is indirectly financed via the sale of fashion pieces crafted from Re-Nylon, which the group entirely shifted its nylon production to in 2021, two years after first debuting the eco-minded fabric.
“As of now, there’s no direct link between products sold and the project, but there’s more on our roadmap, which I cannot share yet,” the Prada executive said.
Asked about the broader impact the Sea Beyond project may have, Bertelli reiterated that all companies should do their part, but he hopes different entities will join the Prada-led program.

“We’re so convinced of this project that we’re all but jealous and we’d like together with UNESCO and other partners in the future to be able to shape it up to be an open-source platform to spread ocean literacy,” he said. “It’s better to join forces rather than venture in sporadic and solitary initiatives.”
According to the executive, the Prada Group “is showing a path to pursue for other companies in the industry, and if it works and other enterprises adopt this as a benchmark, the global amount of investments will increase,” allowing Sea Beyond to expand its scope, he said.
Ana Luiza Massot Thompson-Flores, director of the UNESCO Regional Bureau for Science and Culture in Europe, touted the project for representing a starting point and urged the international community to embrace education among its key pillars and favor ocean literacy to help nurture more responsible citizens.
“Ocean literacy refers not only to its knowledge but also to the education of the younger generations so that they feel able to act starting now, not in the future,” echoed Francesca Santoro, program specialist of UNESCO-IOC. Her hope is that it will set a precedent and trigger the education system across all UNESCO members to embrace ocean education as part of its syllabuses.
The project will be developed in partnership with Venice’s municipality. Asked about reaching out to Italy’s government to seek support for Sea Beyond, Bertelli said there are no ongoing conversations and that Prada Group doesn’t “want to snatch public funds to support a private initiative,” but it’s rather doing its part in to advance society.
Throughout 2022, Sea Beyond, now in its second operative year, will launch initiatives centered on three educational pillars targeting secondary schools; kids aged three to six, and the company’s employees. The project is in line with the Agenda of the United Nations 2030 and 17 Sustainable Development Goals.
“All these initiatives are aimed at increasing the statistic likelihood that people will embrace morally right decisions,” Bertelli said.
Prada has been raising the bar on its sustainability goals, and in January, it appointed two new independent non-executive directors, Pamela Culpepper and Anna Maria Rugarli, selected for their professional background in environmental, social and governance, or ESG.

The company already publishes a CSR annual report and last year, it further committed to corporate social responsibility, reaffirming its objectives and starting a process to measure its carbon footprint after years of investing in the construction, refurbishment and efficiency of its industrial facilities, as well as in photovoltaics and renewable energy.
Prada, which is part of the Fashion Pact, during its Capital Markets Day in November revealed that its greenhouse gas emission reduction targets had been approved by the Science-Based Targets initiative and that its goal was to reach net-zero emissions in 2050.

Raha Moharrak, Hessa Al Suwaidi, and Rakan Bin Abdel Wahid Showcase Prada’s Ramadan Capsule Collection

Raha Moharrak, Hessa Al Suwaidi, and Rakan Bin Abdel Wahid Showcase Prada’s Ramadan Capsule Collection

Raha Moharrak and Hessa Al Suwaidi. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
Prada has unveiled its new collection of ready-to-wear and accessories especially dedicated to the month of Ramadan. The collection titled Parallel Harmonies and its campaign aim to evoke sense of community that is central to the values of the Holy Month.
Hessa Al Suwaidi. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
To reflect this, the Italian luxury fashion house enlisted mountaineer Raha Moharrak, designer Hessa Al Suwaidi, and actor Rakan Bin Abdel Wahid to star in the campaign shot at the Cultural Foundation in Abu Dhabi. Varying in professions but joint in camaraderie, the three embody characters that venture into different journeys while blooming together in parallel harmony.
Rakan Bin Abdel Wahid. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
The fashion house’s offering for the festive month includes flowing silk dresses, polished nappa leather sandals in an ultra-feminine design in hues of brown and beige, and dazzling sling-back pumps. It also features its iconic Prada Galleria bag in addition to the newest Prada Re-Edition 1995. Men’s garments are also present in the collection with loafers and sandals derived from the iconic Saffiano leather, alongside a selection of work and travel bags.
Photo: Courtesy of Prada
Read Next: 13 of the Best Ramadan 2022 Capsule Collections for Iftar and Suhoor Gatherings

Raha Moharrak, Hessa Al Suwaidi, and Rawkan Binabdulwahed Showcase Prada’s Ramadan Capsule Collection

Raha Moharrak, Hessa Al Suwaidi, and Rawkan Binabdulwahed Showcase Prada’s Ramadan Capsule Collection

Raha Moharrak and Hessa Al Suwaidi. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
Prada has unveiled its new collection of ready-to-wear and accessories especially dedicated to the month of Ramadan. The collection titled Parallel Harmonies and its campaign aim to evoke sense of community that is central to the values of the Holy Month.
Hessa Al Suwaidi. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
To reflect this, the Italian luxury fashion house enlisted mountaineer Raha Moharrak, designer Hessa Al Suwaidi, and actor Rawkan Binabdulwahed to star in the campaign shot at the Cultural Foundation in Abu Dhabi. Varying in professions but joint in camaraderie, the three embody characters that venture into different journeys while blooming together in parallel harmony.
Rawkan Binabdulwahed. Photo: Courtesy of Prada
The fashion house’s offering for the festive month includes flowing silk dresses, polished nappa leather sandals in an ultra-feminine design in hues of brown and beige, and dazzling sling-back pumps. It also features its iconic Prada Galleria bag in addition to the newest Prada Re-Edition 1995. Men’s garments are also present in the collection with loafers and sandals derived from the iconic Saffiano leather, alongside a selection of work and travel bags.
Photo: Courtesy of Prada
Read Next: 13 of the Best Ramadan 2022 Capsule Collections for Iftar and Suhoor Gatherings

Prada Appoints Three New Top Executives

Prada Appoints Three New Top Executives

MILAN — The Prada Group is bolstering its C-suite by appointing three new top executives, all of whom bring their extensive experience to the Italian luxury company developed in key sectors outside the fashion industry.Andrea Bonini was named chief financial officer; Cristina De Dona as general counsel, and Diego Maletto as internal auditing director.
Bonini will succeed Alessandra Cozzani effective May 2. Cozzani, who joined Prada in 2016, will exit the company on Sept. 30 “to embrace other professional opportunities.” Bonini will report to Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, who share the chief executive officer role, and will in charge of the group’s administration, finance, control, tax and investor relations departments.

Bonini started his professional career in Milan-based M&A boutique Gallo & C. In 2005, he joined the Investment Banking Division of Goldman Sachs International, based in London, where he held the position of managing director since 2015. At Goldman Sachs, he was part of the Italy Coverage team until 2013 and subsequently joined the Consumer Retail Group, with responsibility for luxury and brands in Europe.

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De Dona will be in charge of the supervision, development and consolidation of all the company’s legal, intellectual property and corporate affairs, reporting to Prada and Bertelli. She recently held the position of international chief counsel at The Hershey Company International. Previously, she was deputy general counsel at multinational manufacturer of branded chocolate and confectionery products Ferrero and chief of staff for the Italian Ministry of Justice.

Cristina De Dona
image courtesy of Prada

Maletto will report to chairman Paolo Zannoni. An Ernst & Young alum, Maletto took on the role of group audit director at Autostrade per l’Italia, which manages Italy’s motorways. Previously, he was head of internal audit at Vodafone for Italy, Greece, Albania and Malta.

Diego Maletto
image courtesy of Prada

Prada has been bulking up its management ranks. In January, as reported, the group reinforced its commitment to sustainability and appointed two new independent non-executive directors, Pamela Culpepper and Anna Maria Rugarli, selected for their professional background in environmental, social and governance, or ESG.
The appointments also signaled the upcoming establishment of an ESG board committee.
Prada has reported a return to profitability in 2021 after a strong second half, driven by increased sales of handbags, footwear and ready-to-wear, which saw a 53 percent jump in revenues compared with 2020 and a 16 percent increase on 2019. In 2021, revenues totaled 3.36 billion euros, climbing 41 percent from 2.42 billion euros in 2020.

The 35 Best Modest Looks from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

The 35 Best Modest Looks from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

Milan Fashion Week came back strong after two years in the deep due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Making bold choices, participating designers played with the fall and winter season colors of black, brown, white, beige, blue, and silver/grey, creating an almost dark/light academia aesthetic. Standing out were Roberto Cavalli’s striking leopard patterns with draping suit jackets and majestic cape dresses, while Dolce & Gabbana made statements with headscarves paired with demure silhouettes in monochrome palettes. Versace embraced a similar mood, but with form-fitting shapes, and Jil Sander took on a more formal approach and offered a modest suit in yellow and a grey dress paired with white leather gloves.
Below, check out the 35 best modest looks spotted on the runways of Milan Fashion Week.
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Alberta Ferretti. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Prada. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Alberta Ferretti. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Loro Piana. Photo: Courtesy of Loro Piana
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillipo Fior
Moschino. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Emporio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Fendi. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Giorgio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Bottega Veneta. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Fendi. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Etro. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Jil Sander. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Prada. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Jil Sander. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Bottega. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Emporio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Giorgio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Read Next: The 27 Best Modest Looks from London Fashion Week Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

5 Things To Know About Prada’s Redefining Milan Fashion Week Fall 2022 Show

5 Things To Know About Prada’s Redefining Milan Fashion Week Fall 2022 Show

Prada’s autumn/winter 2022 collection was a redefining moment for the Italian fashion house. Below, fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen rounds up five things you need to know.
The collection was founded in classic wardrobe pieces

With Kim Kardashian in the audience and Kendall Jenner on the runway, this season’s Prada show was something of a redefining moment for the Prada woman. “This collection is about the history of women, the history of people, not the history of fashion. I have always said this, but now it feels significant to be re-stated”, Miuccia Prada said. “Using these pieces – being inspired by history – connects with the lives of the past. You want to live again, to be inspired. And to learn from the lives of people.” She was referring to the classic wardrobe pieces that characterised the collection: the white vest, the sweatshirt, the bomber jacket, the aviator jacket, the leather jacket, the little black dress and so on, nearly all of them founded in function before becoming a tool for fashion. “Tradition is about humanity: connections between people, passing down knowledge; a human history. These ideas interested us – to look at how and why things had been created in certain ways”, she continued. “But there is only a trace, a memory. It’s not retro, at all.”
It referenced the Prada archives

Identifying the outerwear tropes of the workwear and military wardrobes, Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons played with their genre language, magnifying volumes and adding surface decoration to garments that haven’t historically called for it. They embellished pilot jackets with kitschy, chunky sequins in floral patterns, and adorned coats lifted from the heritage gentlemen’s wardrobe with extra-fake-looking faux fur in saccharine colors. “In taking from the past we translate the beauty, [the] quality of tradition; even of couture. This is always something Prada has done”, Simons explained, alluding to the archival spirit that filled the show. “Valuing history includes us valuing Prada’s history. I think of revolutionary moments in Prada’s history, and we echo them here. There are never direct recreations, but there is a reflection of something you know: a language of Prada. And those moments have helped define our idea of beauty today, which we are now redefining.”
Prada signaled a new openness

With a cast that included everyone from Erin O’Connor and Arizona Muse to Hunter Schafer and new faces, Prada and Simons staged through characters the time-spanning dialogue they wanted to convey through their designs. But it was the appearance of the Kardashian-Jenners – a new addition to Prada’s brand values (although Jenner has walked Miu Miu before and Kardashian has been photographed in Prada) – that really spoke to the redefinition taking place in the intellectual halls of Prada. By including stars known from reality TV and social media on its cast and guest lists, Prada was signaling a wider embrace, which was echoed in the straight-forwardness of the collection. Formidable as they were, these were statement clothes most would be able to understand: enlarged ideas of familiar garments decorated with fun, frilly embellishments that wouldn’t just turn heads, but jump through a social media screen, too.
It was a simplified Prada

If there’s a simplification process going on at Prada, it’s what Simons referred to as an ongoing stripping-down process. “There is an important aspect to me, which is the idea of stripping down. The process of reduction, of focusing – something we have explored from our first collection together – is present again”, he said. “Any narrative has been stripped away, but the pieces themselves have a paradoxical complexity: an internal, personal narrative. Architecture redefines the relationship between a woman and her clothes through something intimate; hidden. And traditional decoration is used in non-traditional forms, to challenge or contradict the visual conventions of pieces. It is never obvious.” Translated for a new, younger Prada customer, the message was this: wardrobe classics, updated; familiar but new; complex-seeming but quite easy to wear.
Accessories included triangle bags and silver boots

Speaking of appealing to the social media generation, Prada and Simons concocted a number of photogenic accessories to whet the appetites of a merch-manic audience. Next to the alien hairdos – a futuristic version of a mid-century up-do – the designers layered their collection with sculptural Santiago-heeled occasion shoes, some rather subversive fade-leather handbags, triangle-shaped and triangle-print evening bags, and knee-high silver boots. But the defining detail may have been the beaded silver chain that closed around the neck of black dresses, attached to a big Prada triangle.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

Prada RTW Fall 2022

Prada RTW Fall 2022

The Russian attack on Ukraine was a jolt to the celebratory mood in Milan, where all of a sudden, balaclavas and a military drumbeat on the runway at Max Mara Thursday morning, for example, started to feel very different.
But the news didn’t stop throngs of gawkers from gathering outside Fondazione Prada in the afternoon, including one woman carrying a paper shopping bag scrawled with the words, “No War in Ukraine.”
A bag for the moment.
What will happen as the invasion continues and brands start to be pulled into the topic remains to be seen. It seems like something must be said. But the bubble held through Thursday, at least.

When Kim Kardashian was photographed Wednesday in Milan wearing a Prada triangle bra top and leather boiler suit, she was not only teasing her presence (and flexing her influence while Julia Fox is also in town), but also the celeb route Prada would take once again this season.

Kardashian, Rita Ora, Storm Reid and others were in the seats, while A-list models Kaia Gerber and Kendall Jenner led the runway charge.
It’s easy to be skeptical of the all-star approach at this point in the game, when Balenciaga, Fendi, Gucci and so many others have already been there, done that. (Kardashian, herself, is a serial collaborator.)

Not to mention that Prada has long been a bellwether of fashion intellectualism, and still is if one considers how co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons philosophize. “Tradition is about humanity — connections between people, passing down knowledge. A human history. These ideas interested us — to look at how and why things had been created in certain ways. But there is only a trace, a memory. It’s not retro, at all,” Miuccia Prada said in a quote provided by the brand.
But Simons has his own fascination with pop culture, putting the Kardashians in underwear ads when he was at Calvin Klein, for example.
And the stars in the seats added to the feeling that this is a new Prada for the logo merch, clicks-‘n’-pics-obsessed customer.
On the runway, the co-designers succeeded in recontextualizing Prada’s ladylike DNA for the streetwear-loving set, and bringing the Prada design vocabulary of classic crewneck and geo-pattern knits, finely tuned tailoring, feminine full skirts, sheer innerwear and assertive outerwear, and joyful jeweled embellishment into the now.
The first look, a white ribbed tank with triangle logo, worn with a slightly grunge, lingerie-like, paneled slip skirt, set the tone for the commercial lineup, which featured multiple versions of the skirt, in transparent stripes of metallic mesh, satin, leather or knit, and different levels of concealing and revealing the leg, with choices for the fashion-modest and fashion daredevil alike.
They were worn with geometric knits, tidy crewneck and turtleneck sets, supersized leather jackets, strong-shouldered blazers or nylon bombers embellished with crystal flowers that looked trend-right. The exploration of tailoring continued in coats and coat dresses with cool-looking chain necklaces attached at the lapel, and glossy leather Dick Tracy-style trenchcoats, echoing the men’s collection versions.
Double-breasted wool jackets and overcoats with arm bands of feathers or fur were statement outerwear pieces in quirky color combinations harkening back to Prada days of old, and the bags were reminiscent of the bowling styles of the 1990s, with a faded patina adding that perfect note of imperfection.
Double triangle pouch handbags and inverted wedge-heel Mary Janes also looked familiar but new, as did the models’ alien matron hairstyles.
And if it all seemed a bit repetitive, let’s not forget that Prada has always been about uniform dressing. This collection was the next chapter of that story, and a compelling one at that.

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