Paris Fashion Week

Vetements Spring 2023

Vetements Spring 2023

Guram Gvasalia was running on one hour’s sleep, but he talked up a storm backstage after the first IRL Vetements show since he took over as creative director.
After all, the spring collection was deeply autobiographical, from the fluffy shearling jackets that reminded him of a childhood teddy bear to the destroyed jeans and ragged black sweatshirts he longed to wear as a teenager.
Gvasalia surfaced painful memories, too: The huge capes resembled the blankets handed out at refugee camps when his family first fled the civil war in Georgia, and the trenchcoats and pants in a checkered weave referenced the cheap storage bags that he used in lieu of fabrics for early design experiments. Such bags were synonymous with the defunct French discount store Tati, now a hollowed-out construction site that Gvasalia chose as the venue for the show, prettying it up ever so slightly with strands of festive lights.

Donna Karan fired up the camera on her phone and filmed as the models stormed passed, kicking up dust.
The show throbbed with the underground energy for which Vetements is known: elephant-wide pants dragging under shoes; linebacker shoulders adding menace to extra long topcoats; T-shirts made edgy with shoulder pads, and wry slogans on sweatshirts, including “I’m not doing s–t today.”

Gvasalia widened his casting from scowling youths with ripped abs to a few funky seniors given spiky hairstyles. “I think all of us have this punk-y mood inside,” he shrugged. He also conscripted Ireland Baldwin as a wink to his childhood obsession with her mother Kim Basinger, and Baldwin’s cascading blonde locks contributed to the Malibu Barbie look he was after.
He opened the display with pinch-waisted jackets on men, and this show was weighted toward archetypal masculine garments, oversize peak lapels being a unifying detail. It was harder to discern a clear vision for the Vetements woman: here in a frilly slipdress; there in two hulking military parkas.
Her rebellious spirt was still intact though: Under a sheer, maribou-trimmed dressing gown, Gvaslia put a T-shirt declaring, “Stop Being Rich,” a thumb in the eye of corporate greed and wealth disparity.

Craig Green Men’s Spring 2023

Craig Green Men’s Spring 2023

Craig Green has a lot of baggage – but it’s physical rather than emotional.
He loves a superstructure, and creative scaffolding around his clothing. This season he used everyday objects – suitcases, ladders, stirrups and parachutes – to adorn his workwear silhouettes, and to transmit the idea of “the useful man progressing into the future,” and the point where “man and myth” overlap.

Green was, of course, thinking about the show venue, the Museum of Mankind in the Trocadéro Gardens, and also about the point where men stop dreaming about how they’ll look when they’re all grown up.
Stirrups and straps dangled from coats and jackets in white or dusty chalk shades, while some models wore ladders or parachutes on their backs. Others accessorized with suitcases that didn’t open.
Some of Green’s baggage served a practical purpose: patches on jackets and coats transformed into zipper bags that could hold a blazer, while models’ sandals came flat-packed, and later woven around the foot.

All those flaps and straps and metal objects recalled the early 20th century Italian Futurist painters and their love of technology, machinery and the nuts and bolts of industry.
Green is equally passionate about mechanics, and how certain shapes and materials can make a statement and enhance the lives of the people who wear them.
While it might be difficult to stride down the streets of London with so many household accessories jangling around, the actual clothes looked pretty easy to pull off: trouser suits with tunic tops; coats made from papery tarpaulin (one of Green’s all-time favorite materials). and fuzzy Muppet-y sweaters with cutouts.
And there is no doubt those dramatic padded or quilted coats in a rainbow of apricot, mint and gray will serve as a soft armor for all those men charging optimistically into the future.

Fall 2022 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations

Fall 2022 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations

PARIS — A spirited energy surrounded not only fashion show venues but also showrooms and presentations here, as accessories brands resumed their bustling in-person showcases.Collections reflected this return to social life in different ways, the flashier of which was a reprise in full force of fancy high heels and party-ready , rich in metallic, holographic and sparkly effects. Two certainties here: platforms are back and there’s no sneaker in sight for next season.
On the flip side of the coin, the resumption of daily routines also pushed brands in the opposite direction to include functional styles that could make life easier, especially when it came to handbags.
Meanwhile, changes over the last two years pushed both customers and companies toward a more conscious path in terms of valuing quality, timeless design and find additional purpose in products, as seen in jewelry lines that were charged with philanthropic or spiritual messages.

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Here, WWD rounds up some of the highlights seen in Paris during the past week:
Roger Vivier: Creative director Gherardo Felloni conceived another dreamy, Marie Antoinette-esque collection rich in candy-colored satin fabrics, crystals appliqués, embroideries and feathers. While the statement shoe of the season was the Choc Feathers Pump — featuring a swan-like silhouette, the brand’s signature Choc curved heel and feathers applied by hand — there were plenty of dazzling options such as satin pumps scattered with crystal embellishments, square-toed mules and sandals bejeweled with boxy ornaments on the heel and pointy sling-back shoes mixing PVC elements with feminine sparkly bows on the front. Even low-heeled styles were mood-boosting with their charming pastel hues or crystal buckles, while clutches spotlighted the brand’s all-around craftsmanship via embroideries and rhinestones galore.

Styles from the Roger Vivier fall 2022 collection.
Kevin Tachman/Courtesy of Roger Vivier

Christian Louboutin: For fall, Christian Louboutin partnered with Parisian artist Yaz Bukey to release an eclectic capsule collection titled “Loubi Mystery.” Winking to an Ottoman influence and exploring the theme of murder-mystery games, the range included bold styles, such as sandals with a metallic embroidery platform heel or covered in Arabic mosaic-like motifs, as well as velvet loafers replicating the pattern of Oriental carpets. Putting a strong focus on platforms, the range included sandals with translucent heels chiseled in botanical patterns and ankle boots covered in fun symbols and thought bubbles.

A style from the Christian Louboutin fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Christian Louboutin

By Far: Buzzy contemporary label By Far further upped the glamour ante for fall as founders Valentina Ignatova and Sabina Gyosheva released an extensive, cool collection focusing on liquified, metallics effect and glossy textures. The brand continued to build on the ’90s and Y2K references with baguette bags in extra-long shapes and high- and mid-heeled mules in punchy colors, ranging from neon green to bubblegum pink. The boots of the season, over-the-knee styles in sleek gold or silver hues, were made for walking, yes, but with extra self-confidence. The design is sure the gain the favor of fashion personalities fan of the brand, including Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber. To further intercept this audience, By Far will open its first flagship store in Los Angeles in May.

The By Far statement boots.
Courtesy of By Far

Alexandre Birman: “No more sneakers, women are back to the heels,” said Alexandre Birman, who during Paris Fashion Week displayed plenty of options to help his customers to mark this return. Phasing out exotic skins, the designer reworked leather in metallic and holographic effects in platform sandals — including a rendition of the brand’s signature Clarita style — and eye-catching designs with sculptural wedges. Elsewhere, he bejeweled stiletto heels with crystal rings or elevated velvet mules with dazzling buckles. “It’s all about cycles and this is a post-COVID-19 return to more eccentric styles. And I believe it is here to stay for a while,” the Brazilian designer said.

A style from the Alexandre Birman fall 2022 collection.
Marc Patrick/Courtesy of Alexandre Birman

Repossi: For the first time, Gaia Repossi explored color in her new Chromatic Sapphires collection. For the 15th anniversary as artistic director of the family business, Repossi partnered with Moyo Gems Organization, an association fighting for the working condition of women in the jewelry industry and especially in Tanzania’s Umba Valley, where the 31 sapphires included in the line were extracted. Coming in beautiful shades of tangerine, red, military green and blue-veering-to-gray hues, these sapphires offered a new take on the brand’s Serti sur Vide collection, which is defined by the floating effect of the gems’ setting. From rings to earrings, 15 unique limited-edition pieces highlighted the different colors and form of the sapphires, which were cut in rounded, oval, heart or pear shapes.

A design from Repossi’s Chromatic Sapphires collection.
Courtesy of Repossi

Eéra: Romy Blanga and Chiara Capitani continued to expand their brand’s range beyond its signature neon-hued earrings. For fall, they introduced pearls, keeping their fun approach to fine jewelry by including them in utilitarian designs. Cue to the new “Vita” necklace in which pearls surrounded a single gold snap hook — still the key element of the brand. “We liked the idea of having this kind of contrast between a classic gemstone, but used with a punk spirit, and the color of the snap hook,” Capitani said. A butterfly motif also debuted in the fall range, decorating necklaces and accenting stud earrings with its green, pink, purple and electric blue hues, as sported by Laetitia Casta’s daughter Sahteene Sednaoui in the brand’s advertising campaign.

A style from the Eéra fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Eéra

Medea: Italian label Medea continues to grasp buyers’ attention with its youthful and irreverent spirit injected in pop handbags. Launched in 2018 with the hit leather iteration of a paper bag, the brand evolved via sleek geometric styles that for fall were joined by new, softer shapes and materials. For one, founders Camilla and Giulia Venturini introduced satin in the Bucket style — offered in lovely combinations of yellow with green and fuchsia with red — and in the Charlie shoulder bag, which featured contrasting eco-leather lining and strategic side pockets to immediately find your iPhone or home keys. The duo also developed the jumbo Crush tote bag made of recycled toilet paper and cigarette packets, and reinterpreted bestsellers Classics and Cydonia in vegan apple skin leather. In sync with their playful attitude, the Venturinis released Medealand, a 40-page print publication developed with Maurizio Cattelan’s art magazine Toiletpaper that doubles as surrealist and fun look book.

Medea’s Bucket style as seen in Medealand.
Courtesy of Medea

Charles Jourdan: One of the biggest news items of the season was historic French footwear label Charles Jourdan’s comeback under the new artistic direction of fashion designer Christelle Kocher. The new course of the brand initiated with wearable and colorful designs with an architectural touch. Kocher revamped a graphic logo from the ‘70s that appeared as a buckle, elevating essential flats and sandals, as well as conceived sculptural, metallic heels that echoed the work of minimalist artist Donald Judd and architect Eileen Gray. Eye-catching options included a pointy style crafted from orange bouclé wool, a flat sling-back in multicolored jacquard and multistrip heeled sandals, which are all set to attract a new generation of consumers to the 101-year-old brand.

A style by Charles Jourdan’s fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Charles Jourdan

Nodaleto: “Since the beginning, we focused on smart styles, but you can be both smart and sexy,” said Julia Toledano, who added some metallic and sparkly effects to her signature square-toe, block-heeled designs that took Instagram by storm since the brand launched in 2019. While its popular mary janes were rendered in holographic textures, flashy fuchsia or forest green satin sling-back styles offered another appealing take on the brand’s aesthetics, which was further enhanced by loafers and laced boots punctuated with colored rhinestones. But Toledano also included more quotidian options via suede designs with contrasting soles. “There are different characters and aesthetics in my head. I can be this girl and this one,” she said showing a glittery shoe in one hand and a suede ankle boot in the other.

A style from the Nodaleto fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Nodaleto

Delvaux: In its elegant presentation staged in a “Hotel Particulier” decorated with statement furnishing by interior designer Maria Pergay, Belgian luxury handbag label Delvaux spotlighted its craftsmanship via a fall collection offering both sparkly options and everyday styles. Bedazzling embellishments revamped the brand’s iconic Brilliant bag, which this season was rendered in a mini size covered in multicolored or black crystals. Even without all the glitz, the Pin bucket bag, first created in 1972, shone with its new perforated structure and chic neutral leather tones, while a Pin Swing variant introduced for fall charmed with its bright shades of pink, yellow and baby blue. Also new, the Lingot leather style inspired by the brand’s ‘70s archives made for a functional, compact bag oozing urban sophistication with its essential lines and oversize “D” buckle made out of a single brass bar.

The Pin bucket bag by Delvaux.
Courtesy of Delvaux

Pierre Hardy: Graphic platforms stood out at Pierre Hardy, where chunky loafers and ankle boots represented a gender-inclusive offering via sizes ranging from 36 to 47. The fall collection also included the ‘90s-inspired, retro-futuristic Blade boots in off-white leather and graphic, minimal heels as well as strappy sandals in metallic hues. Preppy loafers, appropriately dubbed Eton, played with the contrasting colors the footwear maverick is best known for, while the designer continued to prove his sustainability commitment adding new styles developed with deadstock fabrics, such as open-toe pumps covered in leopard print.

The Janis boots by Pierre Hardy.
Courtesy of Pierre Hardy

Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s polished taste and minimalist flair has worked wonders for Florentine footwear label Gia Borghini, which is at its fourth collaboration with the model and actress. Drawing from Borghini’s and Huntington-Whiteley’s mutual penchant for architecture and interior design, the collection included platform boots and sandals nodding to wooden elements as well as more feminine boots and sling-back options with curved heels, all charming in their sophisticated palette of chocolate, olive green, white and purple shades.

A style from the fourth Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley collection.
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Gia Borghini: Looking for unfussy, practical styles to face the wintery season, Gia Borghini and the brand’s creative consultant, Danish influencer Pernille Teisbaek, developed a cool collection of functional boots fitted both for mountain peaks in St. Moritz and the streets of London or New York. Focusing on a palette of butter, beige, forest green and sky blue tones, the leather styles came with chunky smooth or lug soles. A range of sporty sunglasses developed with niche eyewear specialist Ophy was added to complete the look.

A style from the Gia Borghini fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Wandler: Amsterdam-based Wandler keeps drawing attention for its modernist aesthetic channeled via sleek, minimal bags and squared-toe shoes, that keep fueling the sales of the brand distributed in more than 200 wholesale doors. For fall, Elza Wandler released a mini size of the bestselling cross-body bag Penelope, as well as introduced the Uma baguette style and Joanna bag, both imbued with a laid-back attitude. The shoe collection surprised with new Swarovski-encrusted sandals, while the founder further expanded her lexicon with a concise capsule collection of leather apparel separates, including a must-have pant in burgundy shade.

A style from the Wandler fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Wandler

Kassl Editions: Kassl may have started developing handbags as a creative way to repurpose fabric leftovers from its signature fisherman’s coats, but there’s no doubt that this side project has grown to be as compelling as the brand’s main apparel line. The functional range of coated cotton tote bags — including the puffy Pillow designs — and hobo styles now also comprises more compact options in stiffer leather but still oozing the same cool vibe that put the Amsterdam-based label on the fashion map in the first place.

A style from Kassl Editions.
Courtesy of Kassl Editions

Vanina: “Après la pluie, le beau temps,” or “after the storm, the sun rises again,” in English, was the motto of the Vanina collection. The Lebanese company has kept going despite instability in the country, continuing to partner with local artisans to develop its handmade pieces and mood-boosting collections. For fall, structured bags in geometrical shapes were covered in rainbow-colored pearls or rhinestones, while softer options further revealed the artisanal approach of the brand as they were crafted with a beading technique, often reporting fun phrases emphasizing Vanina’s playful spirit. The same embellishments were introduced in a footwear range, that added to the recently launched clothing line and marked another step in the expansion of the company established by Tatiana Fayad and Joanne Hayek in 2007.

A Vanina style for fall 2022.
Courtesy of Vanina

L’Atelier Nawbar: Another Lebanese sensation, fine-jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar, keeps drawing an international audience to its colorful creations with a talismanic quality. The brand, which boasts a heritage dating back to 1891 and has been revamped to charm modern customers by the fourth generation of Nawbars, uses gemstones such as malachite, mother-of-pearl, tourmaline, lapis and agate, each linking to healing properties and positive energy. In addition to bestsellers nodding to astrology, the four elements or lucky symbols, the company has released the Lock’in line of geometric pendants and rings, each intended to bring a customer’s wish into the universe. Coming in Art Deco-reminiscent motifs, including stripes or zigzag patterns, all pieces were marked on the back by words including love, joy and strength.

The Lock’in line by L’Atelier Nawbar.
Courtesy of L’Atelier Nawbar

Celine Daoust: In a similar approach, Celine Daoust showed a spiritual jewelry collection in its Parisian boutique. The brand has released a line dubbed “Dream Maker” that included single hoop earrings, bracelets and pendants with open-eye or moon motifs, all crafted in 14-karat light yellow gold and embellished with marquise-cut diamonds and dangling details.

Styles from the Dream Maker line by Celine Daoust.
Courtesy of Celine Daoust

Pupchen: During the first lockdown in 2020, Tunisian architect Duha Bukadi had plenty of time to design. In addition to buildings, she started to explore the world of footwear, with a goal of combining structure and comfort. Pupchen, her shoe line debuting at Paris Fashion Week that was marked by playful and eccentric high-heeled styles, included over-the-knee boots with whimsical drawings of frogs, planets and flowers, as well as metallic mules and pumps with wavy plexiglass or lollipop-inspired structures as heels. “The goal is for our woman to be noticed and for us to create shoes that can spark a conversation,” Bukadi said. Working with different suppliers, including Massaro — part of Chanel’s Métiers d’Art at Le 19M — Italian manufacturer Ballin and Atelier Lebuisson for embroideries, Bukadi developed her fantasy line while also taking into consideration sustainable aspects. “Initially, I wanted to do a vegan brand, but it didn’t work out because the quality of the products was not as we wanted to be,” she said, switching to a step-by-step approach via the inclusion of chrome-free tanned leather or using waste material from factories in her creations, among others.

A style by Pupchen.
Courtesy of Pupchen

J.M. Weston: Even heritage footwear brand J.M. Weston stepped into high heel territory for the first time by offering a feminine take on its signature Cambre ankle boot, an equestrian style first created in 1969 that features an upper cut from a single piece of leather. The women’s version of this timeless design was celebrated with the poetic performance “Portrait en Pied,” conceived by the brand’s artistic, image and culture director Olivier Saillard in collaboration with actress Sonia Ichti and staged at the French shoemaker’s Marais flagship. Ichti narrated the story of her life through brief poems, each cited after wearing a different pair of shoes, including interpretations of both the flat and high-heeled Cambre boot, which was also rendered artistically when covered in colored leather fringes, canvas, handkerchief or extra-long trains of fabric for a dramatic effect.

A style by J.M. Weston.
Courtesy of J.M. Weston

Joseph Duclos: Enduring elegance was at the center of the Maison Joseph Duclos project. The company was established last year to celebrate the legacy of entrepreneur Joseph Duclos, who in the 18th century combined three small tanneries in Lectoure, France, and earned the title of Royal Leather Manufacture by King Louis XV in 1754. Now, under the artistic direction of Ramesh Nair — who made a name for himself at his previous experiences at Hermès and Moynat — this gem of French craftsmanship launched with a series of luxury leather accessories, including the Diane design offered both in the handbag and cross-body options. Inspired by coin purses and crafted from calfskin treated with a natural tanning technique that develops a patina over time, the essential shape was outlined with gold-plated brass engraved with sentences of the founder’s letters and featured a statement clasp evoking the arrow of the Diana goddess of the hunt. The Saint-Clair style also charmed with its contemporary take on pouches worn by royal officers and combinations of leather structure and soft, nubuck flap.

The Diane bag by Joseph Duclos.
Courtesy of Joseph Duclos

Goossens: Blending art and goldsmith craft, Goossens made a name for itself collaborating with Chanel and making jewelry for designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy and Christian Lacroix. While continuing to work for numerous fashion houses today, the brand expanded its jewelry assortment under its own line with a charming fall collection nodding to antique pieces, including hammered bangles and rings, pearl-encrusted brooches and dangle earrings, all evoking byzantine ornaments. Styles are crafted in brass soaked in gold bath and often embellished with cabochon-cut stones.

Earrings by Goossens.
Courtesy of Goossens

Alia Bin Omair: Emirati award-winning brand Alia Bin Omair, which also scooped the 2021 Fashion Trust Arabia prize for the jewelry category, blending art and design to create statement pieces with an artisanal touch. Highlights of the collection included the Leaf line defined by a raw look and irregular shapes nodding to natural elements. The range comprised 18-karat gold adjustable rings, one-piece earrings and chokers with delicate leaf details punctuating a thin gold wire.

A ring by Alia Bin Omair.
Courtesy of Alia Bin Omair

Elleme: Under the creative direction of founder Jingjing Fan, Paris-based brand Elleme has quickly grown from accessories to ready-to-wear, which was at its third iteration this season. While the label has ambitious plan to further beef up the apparel category, its core footwear and handbags offering continues to attract retailers, which include Harvey Nichols, Browns, Rinascente and Mytheresa, among others. New footwear styles included a tougher take on the mary jane shoe with a squared toe, block heel and rubber sole as well as loafers and high boots adorned by the brand’s signature Couchou ruched band. Handbags ranged from the cross-body, half-moon shaped Dimple bag and the Space bag boasting a futuristic, curved shape to the Panda bag with frontal zippered pockets, that was rendered in different textures, such as shearling, canvas and leather.

The Dimple bag by Elleme.
Courtesy of Elleme

Tweek: Think zero-waste in jewelry is melting metal once more to reuse it? Think again. For jewelry brand Tweek, it’s about using a sheet of metal so completely there’s nothing left, from the metal laticework that is created by punching out another shape to compressing any leftovers for new shapes. Behind the industrial charm of this Dutch label, the contraction of “twin sisters Eek,” are twin cofounders Roos and Geertje Eek. The former has experience in metalwork while the latter worked in product design, combining their knowledge to harness heavy-duty machinery in order to produce eye-catching geometric designs.

A style by Tweek.
Maria.bodil/Courtesy of Tweek

Sweetlimejuice: Hong Kong designer Simpson Ma took home the Swarovski Innovator Award for his unique stone swaddling method the same year he graduated from London College of Fashion. Now behind London-based Sweetlimejuice, the latest collection is infused with cultural contradictions. He borrows from Japanese, Hindu, Islamic and Christian religious imagery, such as a crucifix cleaved in two on the sides of a chunky chain. “These things remind people about connection, closeness and beliefs.” Elsewhere sculptural notes appear in scalloped curved-link chains in gold-plated sterling silver. The brand used black freshwater pearls on bracelets and necklaces, and his signature wrapping technique is applied with fabric cradling chunky semiprecious stones in yellow and a royal purple.

Styles from Sweetlimejuice.
Courtesy of Sweetlimejuice

L/Uniform: Jeanne Signoles continued her exploration of all-things canvas at her L/Uniform brand, which epitomizes effortless French style in pragmatic, everyday accessories. While Signoles’ colorful take on the fabric continues to attract customers via trend-free styles, the founder introduced the Quadrille blend of natural beige cotton with navy linen thread in a new array of models, encompassing satchels, tool and tote bags and pouches in different sizes. She also launched the new Gibecière saddle bag, a compact cross-body design with leather details, that she defined an all-purpose bag. “The initial idea of the brand was to do a bag not just for a Saturday night but for every day. I spend most of my time outside from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., so I need to be well equipped for that,” Signoles said. The company has a store in Saint-Germain-des-Prés and soon will triple its ground floor at Le Bon Marché, where it is showcased at both the fashion accessories and home divisions, since its vast assortment is also extended to cooler bags, kitchen aprons and guitar cases, among others.

A style in Quadrille canvas by L/Uniform.
Courtesy of L/Uniform

Malone Souliers: Opting out of Paris Fashion Week this season, London-based Malone Souliers presented its fall 2022 collection remotely. “I wanted to embrace the unconscious, taking inspiration from the freewheeling visions and impeccable style of the surrealist art movement,” said founder Mary Alice Malone about her new designs that played with different materials and shapes, ranging from high-heeled boots with drawstrings creating ruched effects on the leg to party-ready satin mules with feathers.

A style from Malone Souliers fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Malone Souliers

Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid Favorite Miista Pops Up in Paris to Launch Collection, Zine

Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid Favorite Miista Pops Up in Paris to Launch Collection, Zine

Paris Fashion Week might be winding down, but London-based brand Miista is opening its doors on March 9 for a monthlong pop-up to celebrate its latest collection.“We wanted to connect with our followers and friends of the brand that are passing through the city,” said founder Laura Villasenin. One of Instagram’s buzziest brands, Miista boasts an influential friend list indeed, and counts Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Maria Bernad among its fans.
The event kicks off Tuesday with a livestreamed panel discussion in honor of International Women’s Day with four female artists at the intersection of creativity. Villasenin will speak with painter and mixed media artist Johanna Tordjman; musician and DJ Flore Benguigui; stylist and creative director Jamie Maree Shipton, and food photographer Alix Lacloche on risk-taking, navigating the business, and the importance of collaboration as female artists to push ideas forward.

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And in a world of Instargam’s ephemeral images, the brand is bringing back the indelible indie spirit of the ’90s zine with the first issue of “Their Gaze.” The print edition, billed as “part zine, part book, part manifesto,” seeks to burst the fashion bubble, and brings together the subversive works of Shipton with Mayan Toledano, Ruth Ossai and Julie Poly.
The four female photographers were tasked with taking the Miista collection into the wild, featuring locations in Kyiv, Mexico and East London, and they’re profiled by writer Grace Banks. All proceeds from the zine will go to organizations supporting Ukraine relief efforts.
“The interest of not only Miista, but our customers as well, is not only fashion but everything around it. We feel that the women that we dress, they are varied but all have something in common — they are interested in culture, music, art, politics,” said Villasenin. “We always like to have something else to offer than a beautiful product.”
Villasenin launched Miista’s ready-to-wear earlier this year after a decade as a shoe and accessories brand with denim, silk dresses and knotted bikini tops and bustiers. It was a big risk for the brand, said Villasenin. She not only launched a new product line but also opened a fully-vertical factory in her home country of Spain as well.
To keep everything local and sustainable, textiles are sourced from southern Europe and Villasenin works with the same team of artisans to develop collaborative and equitable production.
The full collection will be available for fittings at the pop-up, and shipped internationally or messengered to a local address within 24 hours. “We invite them to try the pieces then they can continue on their day with ease,” she said of the delivery concept. No one wants to be bogged down with bags.
The Paris pop-up will be followed by Barcelona in April and New York City in May, with a styling event held in London during the summer.

Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2022

Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2022

As an antiwar message on the runway, you can’t do much better as a finale than Paul McCartney and John Lennon’s “Give Peace a Chance.”
Of course, Stella McCartney has an in there. The designer also opened her fall show with a recording of John F. Kennedy’s extraordinary 1963 “A Strategy for Peace” speech. Together, they struck the best note possible in what is a widening disconnect between fashion and reality.
“This feels really strange,” the designer acknowledged of being at Paris Fashion Week while war is raging in Ukraine. “We did it during COVID-19 and now we’re in a situation that feels even sadder and stranger, so we wanted to make some kind of statement against war.”

McCartney’s brand of luxury has always had a conscience in one way or another, and this season, 67 percent of the collection was made with sustainable materials, including forest-friendly viscose, organic cotton, recycled nylon, recycled polyester, regenerative NATIVA wool and RWS wool from traceable sources.

“This collection was about bringing new fabrics to our brand,” she said, noting one: “Waste grape skins — so all the wine you have been drinking during lockdown has been made into bags.” Cheers to that at least.

Traceable, artful and, above all, wearable, this stellar Stella collection was all of that.
For a narrative thread, McCartney collaborated with the modern artist Frank Stella (Stella by Stella, get it?), bringing his signature splatters and stripes to life on the runway atop the Centre Pompidou, with Paris spread out below.
“His minimalism and maximalism are parallel to our brand. The more masculine side and the more explosive side tracks well,” she said of translating the artist’s riotous collages into allover printed jersey pieces and suiting, and his bold straight angle and diagonal stripes onto assertive chalk stripe tailoring, faux fur power coats, and graphic knits that made for very cool sweater dressing.

Flocked denim jeans and a sweetheart neckline fitted jacket, utility pants and shirts, and that Stella staple, the jumpsuit, in black, chocolate brown or burgundy made casual look special.
But there were lots of fabulous, flattering dresses, too — suspended from triangle bra tops, with draped sleeves and bubble hems, or in slick-looking coated georgette with cape effects creating a goddess-like grace.
After ending the weekend with a collection that felt like so much contrived cool, it was a breath of fresh air to start the new week with clothes that had stylish pragmatism without trying too hard.

A Closer Look at Kim Kardashian’s Custom Balenciaga Tape Outfit

A Closer Look at Kim Kardashian’s Custom Balenciaga Tape Outfit

Kim Kardashian and Balenciaga have broken the internet once more.On Sunday, the Skims founder attended the Paris-based luxury fashion label’s fall 2022 show during Paris Fashion Week in a custom look that required yellow caution tape.
Kardashian documented the process, showing herself wearing a signature black catsuit by Balenciaga before wrapping herself in yellow caution tape with the label’s logo all over her body, including her shoes. The bag that she wore was also from the brand and covered in the same tape. She topped off the look with small sunglasses.
The businesswoman took videos and photos of the process and posted them on her social media channels, including documenting that she was carefully cut out of the outfit after the show so that it could be preserved in her archive.

Getting ready for @BALENCIAGA pic.twitter.com/50pX10QvO0
— Kim Kardashian (@KimKardashian) March 6, 2022

“Caution ⚠️ @Balenciaga ⚠️⚠️⚠️,” Kardashian captioned one of her tweets.

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Kardashian also posed for pictures with the label’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, who wore a shirt with the Ukrainian flag to spotlight the Russian invasion of Ukraine, which his fall 2022 Balenciaga show also addressed head-on.

CAUTION ⚠️ @BALENCIAGA ⚠️⚠️⚠️ pic.twitter.com/sRCWn0XisY
— Kim Kardashian (@KimKardashian) March 7, 2022

Guests arriving at the giant exhibition hall on the fringes of Paris discovered oversize T-shirts the colors of the Ukrainian flag on every seat, and a note card from Demna, whose family fled the civil war in Georgia in 1993. “And I became a forever refugee,” he declared. Current headlines “triggered the pain” of that past trauma, making fashion week seem such an “absurdity” that he seriously considered calling the show off.
For years, Kardashian and Gvasalia have worked together for numerous occasions, such as the 2021 Met Gala, in which the KKW Beauty founder went viral for wearing an all-black head-to-toe suit, and her hosting debut for “Saturday Night Live,” where she wore multiple outfits by the Spanish-French luxury fashion house.
Last month, Kardashian also fronted an advertising campaign for Balenciaga, cementing herself as a walking billboard for the brand.
READ MORE HERE:
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Kim Kardashian West’s Blue Balenciaga Outfit Causes Spike in Fashion Searches

5 Things To Know About Valentino’s Hot Pink FW22 Show

5 Things To Know About Valentino’s Hot Pink FW22 Show

Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled a fall/winter 2022 Valentino collection at Paris Fashion Week that was entirely pink and black, and designed to encourage a “moment of reflection”. Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen reports.

The show was all pink and black
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
This season’s Valentino collection was entirely pink and black. “I was fascinated by the idea of having this moment of reflection and digging deeper,” Pierpaolo Piccioli said during a preview. Presented in a huge space painted to match the exact pink of the collection, his idea was to intensify the senses and make us look at the details of each garment – the silhouette, the neckline, the surface decoration – rather than focusing on “looks”. Ultimately, he said, he wanted the character of each model to stand out, rather than what their appearance represented.
The effect was meant to increase ways of seeing
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
“I wanted a moment of reflection: to think about what’s going on,” Piccioli said. “I was reading a book about Fontana [the Italian artist and Spatialist], who used to cut up his work – not in order to destroy it but to build new opportunities; new dimensions,” the designer went on. “You know when you see a book of black and white portraits, after two or three pages you know it’s a black and white portrait book, so you don’t expect to see blonde hair and blue eyes? You go deeper into expressions: wrinkles… I wanted to get that feeling.” Once the eye adjusted to all that pink, the effect did work. You noticed the details of garments, and looked at the models’ faces.
Piccioli focused on necklines to frame personalities
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
For Piccioli, whose work always revolves around the celebration of individuality and diversity, the monochromatism – which is, in essence, uniformity – was meant to draw the observer’s attention to the individual wearing the clothes. To underscore that point, he focused on necklines – what he called “Madonna meets the street” referring to the way the Holy Mother’s face was framed by Renaissance artists – and placed them on a cast including Penelope Tree and Kristen McMenamy. “You go deeper into the faces: who they are, and not what they represent,” he said. “When you see only pink, you get them.”
The collection elevated and expanded everyday codes
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Scored with different versions of Yazoo’s “Only You” – a nod to Piccioli’s individuality-highlighting premise – the collection continued his couture-ification of everyday codes, adapted for ready-to-wear. A t-shirt elongated into a draped minidress, a sporty jumpsuit morphed into a formalwear silhouette, and a generational cargo suit was imbued with a glamorous hourglass shape. Menswear dealt in the very oversized, from giant suits to puffer coats and highly embellished transparent evening tops, all of which will be sold in stores in just pink and black, the way it was presented, Piccioli vowed.
“Pink PP” will be a Pantone color 
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Piccioli’s particular shade of pink will be added to Pantone’s official color scale under the name of “Pink PP” – a counterpart, perhaps, to Valentino Garavani’s “Valentino Red”, although he said it wasn’t meant to rival the house’s trademark color. And while he never wears pink himself, Piccoli explained it’s an ongoing fascination. “I always want pink in my collections. It’s a color I feel you can subvert better, because it already has a lot of meaning. It changed during the centuries: it was the color of the power of men, then it became girlish… I like to subvert the idea. Today, it means different things.”
Read Next: Demna Sends a Heartfelt Message to Ukraine at the Balenciaga FW22 Show
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk

Lanvin RTW Fall 2022

Lanvin RTW Fall 2022

The Lanvin x Batman spring collection made headlines this week when Julia Fox wore a metallic silver slipdress from the range, with a Latex bodysuit and coat, natch, to “The Batman” premiere in New York City.
But for fall 2022, designer Bruno Sialelli looked to Jeanne Lanvin as his superhero, mixing her Art Deco, ancient Egyptian references and flou with his contemporary sensibility in womens- and menswear. showed in a short film and presentation.
The result was a mix of sport and tailoring that hit all the trend notes — anoraks, faux furs and bold suiting in crushed velvet or vivid leather, and a sleek black tuxedo catsuit that looked like something for Catwoman herself.

Tailored coats embroidered with polka dots of stacked sequins, a yellow faux fur Cousteau hat and a sweatshirt with an ancient alien graphic spoke to the brand’s streetwear fans. Meanwhile, a rich-looking, washed cream cashmere tailored coat with pink redingote detail, and a sleeveless black shift that peeled away at the bodice to reveal blue velvet fil coupe underneath, spoke to the house’s ladylike side.

Eveningwear shone, including a shimmery Lanvin green sleeveless dress in a subtle stripe pattern embroidered with 130,000 beads that took 400 hours of work.

“This dress for me is power because it’s sort of armor and there’s something sexy about the back, but at the same time, it says ‘respect me,’” Sialelli said.
A sheer slip covered entirely in mukesh embroidery, worn over a crushed velvet bra and panties, was another style begging for a stage.
Sialelli reworked Lanvin’s legendary robes de style, with weightless sculpted volume skirts of silk lace, and flowers traced in caviar beads, and made sweeping dressing gowns of paneled lace, silk and velvet, which were calling out for a red carpet. The veiled headbands were a nice touch, too.
With Maluma’s styling team cycling through the presentation on Saturday afternoon, for one, chances are good we’ll see another Lanvin celebrity moment soon.

Dice Kayek RTW Fall 2022

Dice Kayek RTW Fall 2022

Ece Ege created a glittering collection for fall, with crystal embellishments and paillettes galore — a good antidote to today’s dark times.
“You know, more is more,” said the designer, with a laugh.
She conceived a strong lineup, full of structured pieces, with each garment wearable for dress-up or dress-down.
Bounded sweatshirt material is elevated with silk taffeta, fringes or black sequins. A black minidress in double stain comes adorned with bows. The waterproof rain jacket is festooned with hand-embroidered paillettes.

“You can dance under the rain and you’re all protected,” reasoned Ege.
She has a deft hand at constructing garments with interesting volumes, and pays close attention to details, like the handmade embroidery. Practicality is also key, so she’s created a belt bag, adding two more pockets to any outfit.
For her fashion film, Ege eschewed the narrative plots of recent seasons. Instead, the clothes feature, worn on models mostly outlined against a solid background.
Sometimes they were shown in multiples. Models walked, danced and posed. At the end, one literally parted the darkness to let in the light

Hermès RTW Fall 2022

Hermès RTW Fall 2022

Prim, proper, rich but understated, with a wardrobe full of tailoring and investment pieces — the bourgeois look has been a cornerstone of French fashion for decades, perhaps nowhere more so than at Hermès.
But Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has emerged as a torchbearer for a new Parisienne, one who might wear a classic blazer or fitted skirt but in a modern way — and flash some leg while doing it. “It’s about a woman being assertive in their femininity, and owning her body,” the designer said.
After last season’s runway excursion to Le Bourget airport, Hermès landed back at the Garde Républicaine for its fall runway show, paring back the theatrics and letting the clothes shine.

They deserved the spotlight.
Vanhee-Cybulski has brought a new relevancy to the brand’s ready-to-wear, showing the kind of pieces women will want to reach for every day (if they can afford it), that strike a balance between sensuality and practicality.

For fall, she worked in a black-and-white and earthy palette that was a refreshing break from the season’s traffic-stopping brights. The designer tapped the body-con side of equestrian, namely the breeches and jodhpurs, as inspiration for sleek catsuits, curve-tracing tops with hardware details, leggings, and HotPants worn with thigh-high tights and over-the-knee boots, for a look that was more “Emily in Paris” than Rive Gauche madam.

Leather pieces had a chic modernity, like the fitted black striped blazer and miniskirt that opened the show, and a pleated leather skirt with sheer knit insets that made it look weightless in stride. Other skirts had folded leather waistbands with hardware details, making them resemble the fronts of the house’s famed handbags, and perhaps could spark a similar frenzy.
The outerwear was also lush. A black shearling pullover with leather storm flap might be the most luxe version of a Patagonia fleece to date, while an olive car coat with leather piping and bridle details — over a miniskirt, natch — was executed with razor-like precision.

There was plenty in the way of covetable new accessories, too — belts with a cursive H buckle, the new 22 bag with a tough-looking zipper, and a reworked mini Kelly with hardware askew “as if it were dancing,” said Vanhee-Cybulski.
“It’s a fusion of tradition and modernity. We have to know where we come from and who we are, but it’s also good to have the unexpected, and to be confident,” said the designer, sounding a note of positivity in these tough times. “We’re going to make it.”

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