outerwear

Ecoalf Plants a Flag in Paris, Eyes Other Fashion Capitals

Ecoalf Plants a Flag in Paris, Eyes Other Fashion Capitals

Having largely conquered the cold, sustainability-minded countries of Europe, Ecoalf is now upping its fashion credentials and visibility by opening a boutique in central Paris — with Milan and Los Angeles locations also coming soon.The Spanish brand, known for its holistic approach to green fashion, took a bright 1,600-square-foot space a stone’s throw from the BHV in the buzzy Marais district, troweling the walls, floors and fixtures with a concrete mixture containing old, shredded T-shirts.
“In France, the brand is not known, and the store will help,” brand founder and president Javier Goyeneche said in an interview at the boutique, which has a vibe somewhere between contemporary art gallery and surf shack. “Paris is very important, and the location is fantastic.”

Although the brand is sold in almost 2,000 wholesale doors in Europe, with Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Scandinavia the most established markets, it is only sold in about 70 doors in France.

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A spring 2022 look from Ecoalf 1.0, its premium line.
Courtesy of Ecoalf

Goyeneche said its new premium line Ecoalf 1.0, which debuted for fall 2021 retailing, is helping garner the brand attention and appreciation with its minimalist allure in the vein of old Celine or current Cos, but with the highest sustainability credentials.
“It’s not basic, it’s timeless, which is a key component of sustainable fashion,” he noted.
Touring the bifurcated space at 14 Rue du Temple, the executive pointed to polo shirts which shed hardly any micro-plastics when laundered; a sleek tote bag made of plastics retrieved from the bottom of the ocean; and sleek sweatpants made of Kapok, a natural cellulose fiber sourced from the dried fruits of the kapok tree.
The brand is also pursuing collaborations that are bound to heighten its profile, including one with Gwyneth Paltrow’s apparel and lifestyle brand Goop, landing at retail in October, and another, streetwear-driven tie-up with Spanish model Jon Kortajarena, slated for February 2023, Goyeneche said.
At present, about 60 percent of the Ecoalf business is wholesale, 20 percent retail and 20 percent online, he noted.
The next retail opening will likely be Milan, followed by Los Angeles this fall, in tandem with a full-court press into the North American market. In fact, Goyeneche plans to relocate from Madrid to California to set up the office, warehouse and flagship store. Wholesale distribution in North America will be handled by the M5 showroom in New York, which has launched the likes of Stone Island, Woolrich and Herno in the market.

The Paris boutique is made with eco-minded materials.
Alexandre Tabaste

The brand also counts flagships in Madrid, Barcelona, Berlin and Tokyo.
Ecoalf logged 67 percent growth in 2021, and is targeting revenues of 40 million euros this year, and 60 million euros in 2023, according to Goyeneche.
Sneakers account for about 25 percent of sales, with the outerwear category preeminent in winter collections, and T-shirts, sweatshirts and swimwear for the summer. The brand will next stretch into apparel for yoga, jogging and other active pursuits.
Founded in 2009, the company is turning its attention to the end of its products’ life cycle by focusing mainly on mono-filament garments, rather than ones made of blended materials.  Goyeneche noted already 94 percent of its fabrics are mono-filament, including organic cotton and cashmere as well as plant-based polymers Sorona by DuPont and Solotex.

SEE ALSO:
Ecoalf Introduces Its Most Sustainable Line Yet
Lenzing Talks Textiles and Eco-Fibers, State of Sustainability Market
What’s to Come of Patagonia’s Microfiber Washer, ‘Fabric Meta Chip’ and Other CES Innovations?

PETA Asks Lululemon About Slaughterhouse Practices

PETA Asks Lululemon About Slaughterhouse Practices

Lululemon Athletica is in the hot seat. Animal rights activist group PETA — which owns shares of Lululemon — submitted a shareholder resolution request Wednesday to the athletic apparel and accessories retailer’s board, asking Lululemon to reveal information regarding how Lululemon sources its goose down, which is used in some Lululemon jackets. 
PETA said shareholders have a right to know if Lululemon’s practices are “incompatible” with its animal welfare policy, and if so, how the company plans to reduce its impact on the animals. 
“Lululemon is selling jackets filled with the feathers of birds who are violently killed, betraying the yoga principle of ahimsa, or nonviolence, that it splashes on its shopping bags,” Tracy Reiman, PETA’s executive vice president, said in a statement. “PETA’s resolution would prove to Lululemon that it’s misleading its customers about the suffering and deaths of animals in its supply chain.”

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A spokesperson for Lululemon confirmed that the company received PETA’s shareholder proposal, asking the retailer to list down as an item in its proxy statement, as well as Lululemon’s 2022 annual meeting.
Lululemon did not say whether it would include down in the proxy statement or on the agenda of its 2022 annual meeting, but did say through the spokesperson that “we are committed to upholding strong animal welfare practices by working with our vendors to have visibility into down sources and can confirm 100 percent of our down products are certified RDS, a standard that is considered industry best practice.”
The retailer added on its website that “we require that animals in our supply chain are treated humanely and with respect. We don’t use down that comes from birds that have been live plucked or force fed. We work to ensure the traceability of our entire supply chain by following an industry best practice called the Responsible Down Standard. The goal of the RDS is to protect and improve the welfare of the ducks and geese that provide down and feathers. Following the RDS ensures that our down comes from geese that have been treated humanely.” 
In Lululemon’s 2020 Impact Agenda, which outlined the retailer’s multiyear social and environmental efforts, the company went one step further, saying that, “a full 100 percent of our animal-derived materials will be traceable or certified in line with our Animal-Derived Materials Policy by 2025. Since 2016, 100 percent of our down has been fully traceable and certified to meet the Responsible Down Standard. We are working toward responsibly sourced wool that is traceable and preferably certified by a third party, such as the Responsible Wool Standard. We’ll continue to increase visibility and transparency for the rest of our supply chain.”
PETA shot back, claiming that “all birds used for down end up at slaughterhouses, where they are typically hung upside down, they’re electroshocked, their throats are slit and their bodies are dumped into scalding water for de-feathering.
“More and more consumers are prioritizing corporate transparency and cruelty-free fashion,” PETA said in its resolution. “Lululemon’s consumer base expects our company to uphold values, such as mindfulness and honesty touted on its website. Consequently, our shareholders deserve full disclosure on the slaughter methods used to obtain down in order to assess whether or not these methods align with our company’s humane claims and values.”

Lululemon uses goose down as insulation in some of its outerwear pieces, a partnership with down supplier Downlite, because it has a “higher warmth-to-weight ratio than other materials used for insulation,” according to Lululemon’s website. “This means more warmth with less bulk, making it an excellent high-performance material for layering and sweaty pursuits.”
Downlite also partners with Ralph Lauren, Patagonia, Canada Goose, Vuori, Banana Republic and The North Face, among others, according to the company’s website. 

The Top Trends for Men This Fall

The Top Trends for Men This Fall

Needless to say, the fall 2021 runway season has been a weird one.
Not only because the shows have been digital and we’ve sat in our homes watching them online, but also because designers presented a comprehensive juxtaposition of wearable clothes and high concept ideas. The biggest trends sprung from the idea of creating the perfect suit for right now. The results were baggie and comfortable designs reminiscent of the nineties slouchy style.
The idea of making outerwear a fall trend sounds ridiculously obvious, but this season’s statement-making coats were at the forefront more than ever.
The same applies to the array of knits shown this season, from turtlenecks and large textured cardigans to extra, extra long crewnecks. The long johns at Prada signaled that the concept of underwear as something intimate-only is out the window.

Dior brought back pomp and circumstance with his the military uniform universe, while Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton played with all American references, resulting in some great varsity jackets.
All that said, an underlying sense of optimism was the key message, and the use of bright colors was a clear signal that fashion is feeling hopeful — and so are we. Here are the top trends of the fall season.
COMFORT SUITS
After nearly a year of turning the living room into a boardroom, designers are channeling the work from home routine into the perfect blend of coziness and function. The result is a suit that works as well in a Zoom world as it does in real life.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna

Kolor Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Kolor

Y/Project Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Y/Project

COLOSSAL COATS
This season’s stars range from textured graphic numbers and dressing gown styles to inside out designs and over the top, evening-inspired, unisex top coats, all of which guarantee to grab attention.
Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Casablanca Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Casablanca

GmbH Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of GmbH

KNIT HITS
Jonathan Anderson’s conceptual “knit over knit” design at Loewe is a clear example of the cozy to the max mood that’s injecting new life into this men’s wear staple.
Loewe Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Etudes Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Etudes

Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Dries Van Noten

NO LONGER UNDERWEAR
A clear result of the times we are living in is the idea of wearing underwear as a statement fashion piece, like the long johns at Prada or the classic tighty whities on the opening look at Rick Owens. The trend speaks to the intimate-at-home vibe that permeated the season.
Prada Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Prada

ERL Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of ERL

Rick Owens Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Rick Owens

COLOR CODE
The use of bright blues and greens — as well as a good amount of red — packed a punch of positive vibes, telegraphing an optimistic message for the future.
JW Anderson Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of JW Anderson

Phipps Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Phipps

Casablanca Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Casablanca

AMERICAN IDOLS
Whether it’s a classic collegiate varsity jacket at Louis Vuitton or the preppy-inspired reworkings of a knit vest at Y/Project, these heritage pieces redefined the All-American classics trend.
Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2021  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Y/Project Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Y/Project

Reese Cooper Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Reese Cooper

UNIFORM APPROACH
At Dior, the pillar of men’s wear — suits — received the royal treatment by using the dress code from the inductees into the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Meanwhile, a traditional admiral’s naval coat at Wales Bonner exuded a retro vintage vibe ideal for Gen Z and beyond.
Dior Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Dior

Wales Bonner Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Wales Bonner

JW Anderson Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of JW Anderson

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