Nike

IN FASHION: While Hollywood productions have largely come to a grinding halt with actors and screenwriters striking shoulder-to-shoulder, Apple TV+ is planning to roll out a 10-part family drama about an iconic French fashion house.
Perhaps taking a page from Max’s “Succession,” which racked up 2.9 million finale viewers, the yet-to-be-released “La Maison” will revolve around a family dynasty that runs a contemporary luxury fashion house and the lives of powerful families. The premise of that may sound a little familiar to industry types, but the storyline is fictitious.

The hourlong episodes will be headlined by César Award winners Carole Bouquet for “En thérapie,” Zita Hanrot for “Fatima,” Pierre Deladonchamps for “Stranger by the Lake,” and Antoine Reinartz for “Anatomy of a Fall.” César Award nominees are also in abundance in the project including Lambert Wilson, Amira Casar,  Anne Consigny, Florence Loiret Caille and Ji-Min Park.

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The behind-the-scenes show hinges on a scandal that is set off by a viral video featuring the company’s lead designer, Wilson’s Vincent LeDu, whose exit leaves his family in the lurch. Enter LeDu’s former assistant Perle Foster (who is portrayed by Casar) who sidles up to an emerging designer to recreate and rescue the century-old Masion LeDu, while returning the namesake family to the upper echelons of the fashion landscape.

“La Maison” was developed by showrunners José Caltagirone and Valentine Milville, and is based on an idea by executive producer Alex Berger. The series is being directed by award-winning filmmakers Fabrice Gobert of “The Returned” and Daniel Grou, who is known as “Podz” and worked on “Lupin.” Shooting in France Thursday, Grou was unavailable to discuss “La Maison,” according to his agent Nathalie Brunet.

While designers and major brands have been busy churning out content, fashion-centric related entertainment has reeled in viewers for years. Millions have and continue to tune into series like “Emily in Paris,” “Sex and the City,” “Halston,” “And Just Like That,” “Project Runway,” and “Queer Eye,” among others, as well as feature films like “The Devil Wears Prada” and “Clueless.” The global appeal of fashion is clear, given the more than $326.7 million that “The Devil Wears Prada” grossed at the box office, well above its budget of $41 million.

One of the few dozen independent films that will continue to be shot during the ongoing strike is “Mother May.” Anne Hathaway, who played a bumbling fashion magazine assistant opposite Meryl Streep in “The Devil Wears Prada,” is gearing up for a bit of a role reversal. In the David Lowery-directed “Mother Mary,” Hathaway portrays a pop star involved with an iconic fashion designer. It was written by Charli XCX and Jack Antanoff.

Meanwhile, former fashion designer and now acclaimed author Douglas Stuart is contributing to the fashion film sector. His Booker Prize-winning debut title “Sugar Bain” is being adapted by the BBC for A24. The page-turner borrowed from his Glasgow upbringing by his alcoholic mother and her never-realized life of glamour. In an interview earlier this month, Stuart noted something that the publishing world is lacking — more books about fashion. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

NIKE’S PAY: John Donahoe, president and chief executive officer of Nike Inc., saw his target pay rise by 13.7 percent to $32.8 million last year, according to the company’s annual proxy statement.

That included salary of $1.5 million, incentive pay of $6.8 million and other compensation of $4 million, which was mostly made up of $3.9 million in charitable contributions made by the company to match the CEO’s own donations.

Nike CEO John Donahoe.

Meron Menghistab/WWD

But the bulk of Donahoe’s pay came from stock and option awards valued at $20.5 million as of the date they were granted.

The Securities and Exchange Commission recently mandated an additional reporting method for CEO pay — compensation actually paid — which looks at how the value of his unvested shares changed over the year.

By that metric, Donahoe’s pay tallied $29.4 million, or $3.4 million below the target pay that Nike’s board envisioned for him. His “actual” pay could have been higher, but the company’s stock for the fiscal year ended May 31 fell by 11.4 percent. 

While Nike remains the active powerhouse in fashion, the stock is down since he took the helm in January 2020. 

According to another newly mandated data point referred to in the regulatory filing, $100 invested in Nike at the start of its 2021 fiscal year was worth $109.51 after three years — less than the $116.84 shareholder return seen by the company’s selected peer group, the Dow Jones U.S. Footwear Index.

The proxy sets the agenda for Nike’s annual meeting, which will be held on Sept. 12. — EVAN CLARK

NEW DISTRIBUTION: Lotto is about to hit the floors at Dick’s Sporting Goods.

The Italian soccer and tennis brand, which was purchased by brand marketer WHP Global two years ago, has signed a deal with Dick’s for the U.S.’s largest sporting goods retailer to be the brand’s anchor distributor here. The collection launches July 22 at select Dick’s stores and online and will initially include Lotto performance cleats and tennis shoes designed in Italy. The brand also sells a full line of racquet sports performance products as well as lifestyle footwear and apparel under the Lotto Life’s and Lotto Leggenda trademarks.

To coincide with the launch, Lotto has signed Sofia Huerta, a member of the U.S. Women’s National Team and 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup, as a brand ambassador. As part of the deal, Huerta, who will join more than 300 Lotto-sponsored athletes globally, will appear in campaign images at Dick’s and promote the brand through social media and appearances.

U.S. soccer star Sofia Huerta has signed on to be a Lotto brand ambassador.

“I am honored to represent Lotto on and off the field,” Huerta said. “The brand is legendary and brings years of soccer history and product innovation. Their values and vision are parallel with my goals and the support they have given to grow the game of soccer aligns with my hope to leave the game better than I found it.”Yehuda Shmidman, chairman and chief executive officer of WHP Global, added, “We’re thrilled to bring the Lotto brand to U.S. athletes in partnership with Dick’s. This breakthrough collaboration not only ensures a new generation of Lotto athletes and customers but also charts an exciting new path as we continue to grow this legendary brand around the globe.”

WHP, which also owns Joseph Abboud, Anne Klein and Bonobos, had identified the U.S. market as a key growth opportunity for the Lotto brand upon the closing of the deal. The brand, which is headquartered near Venice, was founded in 1973 and its double diamond logo has been seen on professional athletes including Grand Slam champions Martina Navratilova and Boris Becker as well as on more than 40 soccer teams and 500 athletes around the world. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

ANDERSON’S NEW BAG: Tracy Anderson is expanding her offering, partnering with VeeCollective, a Berlin-based handbag brand, to produce exclusive co-branded bags this summer.

The bag is equipped with two additional pockets for ankle weights and carries Anderson’s signature color code as a digital print on the included detachable pouch. In addition, there will be a matching Porter clutch in the same color story. There is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces.

“It’s simple: VeeCollective is my first choice, the perfect gym bag and we share the love for sustainability and great design. Which is why we are the perfect fit. I can’t wait to share the styles with my community,” said Anderson.

Lili Radu, VeeCollective cofounder, said, “We are super excited and proud to launch this exclusive collaboration with Tracy. She is an icon. Last year we already participated in one of her amazing retreats in Palm Beach and the Hamptons. Her community loved our bags. Now having this exclusive collaboration is just next level. I love the bags.”

The Porter clutch.

Courtesy of Tracy Anderson

The Porter tote retailers for $295, and the Porter clutch is $210. They are available exclusively at vee-collective.com and Tracy Anderson distribution channels.

All VeeCollective bags are made using 100 percent recyclable materials from the outerwear fabric through fillings, linings and thread. It also uses vegan leathers and a biodegradable packaging concept.

As reported, last month Anderson revealed a deal for women’s activewear with Bloch, a provider of technical dance footwear. — LISA LOCKWOOD

TRAVELERS’ AID: Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants is looking to alleviate packing stress for its hotel guests through a new partnership.

The hotel chain is joining forces with Anthropologie to select an accessories collection, called “Forgot It? We’ve Got It!,” that includes handbags, belts and sunglasses, which launches on Aug. 1. Hotel guests will be able to borrow any item from the collection on a complimentary basis throughout their stay. 

“Kimpton is known for its thoughtful perks and unique personal touches that enhance the guest experience and leave lasting impressions,” said Kathleen Reidenbach, senior vice president of marketing and commercial for IHG Luxury & Lifestyle Americas, the parent company of Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants. “Similarly, Anthropologie focuses on meeting consumers’ evolving seasonal and style preferences, so partnering with a like-minded brand that’s also invested in encouraging full self-expression is a perfect way for us to connect with new audiences and evolve our core ‘Forgot It? We’ve Got It! program.’”

A campaign image from Anthropologie and Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants’ collection.

Courtesy of Anthropologie

The partnership is kicking off with a summer edit of the collection, with Anthropologie accessories pieces such as a woven leather shoulder bag, tinted aviator sunglasses and a buckle shoulder bag, among others. 

The Anthropologie collection will be available at 19 Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants locations throughout the U.S., including in San Francisco, Miami, Atlanta, Chicago, New York, Philadelphia and Nashville, Tennessee, among others.

“At Anthropologie, we are all about being there for our community wherever they are, and having the ability to reach both new and existing customers at Kimpton’s properties across the country is incredibly intriguing,” said Barbra Sainsurin, executive director of brand marketing at Anthropologie. “Similar to how we pride ourselves on anticipating our customers’ needs season over season, we appreciate Kimpton’s proactive approach to supporting their guests, and we can’t wait to see how they all engage with our Anthropologie products.”

Hotel guests can access the collection through the hotel’s Anthropologie virtual storefront and have the option of purchasing the pieces to take home with them. — LAYLA ILCHI

FORE A CAUSE: American Eagle Outfitters landed on the fairway again.

The retailer and its AEO Foundation hosted the 14th annual AEO Foundation Golf Outing at the Valley Brook Country Club in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania, raising an all-time high of $900,000. 

The event supports the Community Grants program, which helps fund nonprofits aimed at educating and empowering teenagers and young adults in areas where the Pittsburgh-based retailer has an office or distribution center, including its hometown, New York City; San Francisco; Hazleton, Pennsylvania; Ottawa and Mississauga, Ontario.  

This year, the event also put a spotlight on the recently created Aerie Real Foundation, which grew out of American Eagle’s sister brand and looks to build confidence in women, foster inclusive community and protect the planet. 

Aly Raisman, Olympic gymnast, advocate and #AerieREAL Role Model, was on hand to present a $100,000 Signature Grant to Special Olympics International at the event. 

“Being an #AerieREAL brand partner has been so empowering for me,” Raisman said. “Over the years, I’ve seen a transformation within myself as I continue to work on body acceptance, speaking my truth and being my authentic self, which is an ongoing journey. I’m proud to join Aerie in support of Special Olympics to help create a community that fosters inclusion and inspires fellow athletes to celebrate their unique abilities.”

Krissy Bobrzynski, Special Olympics Pennsylvania athlete; Aly Raisman, Olympic gymnast and advocate; Tommy Kreutzer, Special Olympics Pennsylvania athlete, and Stacey McCormick, Aerie chief marketing officer.

Catherine Acevedo

And Stacey McCormick, Aerie’s chief marketing officer, added, “In our mission to support confidence and inclusion in the Aerie Community, we are proud to partner with Special Olympics year after year and help empower a new generation of athletes.”

Aerie’s foundation was founded in October and has already awarded more than $630,000 to groups such as the National Eating Disorders Association Delivering Good, Period. and Free the Girls. — E.C.

Last year Nike celebrated a major 50-year milestone and true to its slogan “Just Do it,” the company is committed to impact.
Released Friday, the activewear giant’s latest impact report spans a whopping 225 pages, extensively detailing its people, planet and play pillars. In time for Women’s History Month and in homage to the female athletes who propel the swoosh forward, the report included letters from six powerhouse athletes, among them Serena Williams and Megan Rapinoe. Their visions complemented Nike’s social goals such as maintaining one-for-one pay equity and growing the representation, or 44 percent of women in leadership roles, among other highlights. As part of its commitment to invest $125 million in organizations supporting racial equity by 2025, Nike committed $69.6 million in 2022 (up $33 million from 2021).

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In a nod to its commitment, in 2021 Nike linked its purpose targets to executive compensation. Earlier this month, the company hired James Loduca as chief diversity, equity and inclusion officer, who is the fourth person to fill the role since 2020.

Given the company’s scale in and the United Nations’ latest dire warning, climate is another key impact area even as balancing growth with sustainability is a challenge for many. Nike’s third-quarter earnings recently beat expectations at $12.4 billion (up 14 percent from Q4 last year).

Nike’s 2025 target is to reduce Scope 1 and 2 emissions by upward of 65 percent (which it reached in 2020), though the company continues to “[expand] owned and operated facility portfolio” and cited “limited availability of scalable, lower carbon alternatives to replace natural gas and other carbon-intensive fuels” as a detriment to continued progress. Increased units (more products) were another cited hindrance to exceeding its goals. More importantly, Scope 3 — or indirect emissions — account for 99 percent of Nike’s operations, according to the report. As for Scope 3, Nike is targeting a 30 percent reduction by 2030. In 2022, it saw break-even gains (or an 8 percent reduction on top of last year’s 8 percent increase).

“Another obstacle stems from the fact that given long product timelines, the products currently in market reflect decisions made several years ago, which creates a lag in realizing the carbon reductions due to strategies and investments made since the announcement of our SBT,” the report read. “Under business-as-usual scenarios, absolute emissions are anticipated to rise; therefore we must push beyond incremental reductions and unlock transformative solutions in the supply chain.”

Infrastructure investments are happening in fashion, though not at the pace needed. Nike hopes waste reduction efforts (occurring across 97 percent of its operations, including “waste to energy” or incineration), as well as textile-to-textile recycling will result in “increases in closed-loop apparel fabric recycling” from late fiscal year 2023 onward.

Already, product drops are looking toward a more circular future, like Nike’s “Link” (which debuted in June 2022) and “Link Axis” sneaker (dropping in 2023). The novel sneakers are glueless and built for disassembly. Today, eight Nike locations — four stores in Texas and four stores in Georgia — offer recycling and donation services. Nike has more than 1,000 stores worldwide.

In a past interview with WWD, Nike’s chief sustainability officer Noel Kinder underscored: “Circularity is a really important unlock.” He added, “The nirvana would be that you buy a pair of shoes and use them to the point that they’re worn out, take them back and have them disaggregated so their core compounds are reconstituted into another shoe. We’re not quite there yet, but a lot of the elements of that concept of circularity exist, like Space Hippie, where we’re starting to use waste as a feedstock. You see that in those crazy Axis shoes that can be decomposed back into original parts. I really feel like that is the future of innovation in sustainability.”

Tiffany and Nike are pulling the lid back further on their hotly rumored collaboration, which includes a sneaker, along with footwear-focused sterling silver accessories.
WWD can exclusively reveal that the Tiffany and Nike sneaker — officially called the Nike x Tiffany & Co. Air Force 1 1837 — will be released on March 7. The low-top style, which was designed to celebrate the Air Force 1’s 40th anniversary, is priced at $400.

Limited quantities will be available for purchase at two Tiffany locations in New York City, including its Flagship Next Door SoHo store, along with the Nike Snkrs app and, “select Nike partner retail stores in North America,” according to a press release.

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The exact time of the drop is yet to be determined and will be released in the coming weeks. Tiffany and Nike declined to offer further comment on the collaboration.

The sneaker — as depicted in images leaked last week — is made of black suede and comes with a Tiffany blue swoosh and sterling silver heel plate designed in ode to Tiffany’s classic Return to Tiffany collection. Available sizes will range from a U.S. men’s 3.5 to 18.

The two companies are not stopping there. Tiffany is also producing a range of cobranded, sneaker-centric sterling silver accessories, with prices ranging from $250 to $475.

They include a whistle set on a chain, a shoe horn, shoe brush and a dubrae to accentuate the sneakers’ laces. The accessories will be available for purchase on Tiffany’s website.

The collaboration marks Tiffany’s first foray into footwear.

In 2005, the jeweler got an unofficial taste of its potential in the category after Nike enlisted Nicholas Tershay, also known as Nicky Diamonds, to design a pair of low-top dunks on behalf of his skater label Diamond Supply Co.

The resulting sneaker — featuring stamped black crocodile leather trim and a silver swoosh set against a backdrop of Tiffany blue mesh and leather — was dubbed the “Tiffany.”

The jeweler did not have any involvement in the design, but the sneaker has been considered a classic and is available for sale on Sotheby’s website for $3,850.

Tiffany has engaged in an increased number of brand collaborations since its 2021 acquisition by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. The jeweler has teamed with companies including Supreme, Fendi and Patek Philippe, as well as artist Daniel Arsham and The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts.

Nike Inc. is suing A Bathing Ape, also known as Bape, for trademark infringement for some of its most popular sneaker styles.

The sports giant filed a lawsuit on Wednesday against the Japanese streetwear brand at the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York for trademark infringement for “some of the world’s most valuable trademarks,” according to the lawsuit’s complaint, which includes the Nike Air Force 1, Nike Air Jordan 1 and Nike Dunk sneakers. 

“Nike has spent decades building its rights and goodwill in those designs,” the complaint stated. “To protect its hard-earned rights, Nike has a legal obligation to stop copyists when infringements pose a significant danger to Nike’s rights.” 

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Nike is alleging that Bape’s trademark infringement started as early as 2005. But the suit said the infringement was “inconsistent” as the streetwear label’s “infringing products appeared and then disappeared from the U.S. market for years.” The complaint states that prior to 2021, Bape’s infringing products were produced in small quantities and were “never more than a small fraction of the millions of pairs Nike sells annually.” 

The sports giant saw that after 2021, Bape’s presence in the U.S. began to grow, which posed a larger threat to Nike’s business. The complaint offers examples of sneaker publications and social media users commenting that Bape’s styles like the SK8 STA, the Court STA and the Court STA High resembled Nike’s own sneaker styles. 

Prior to the lawsuit, Nike had demanded Bape stop producing its alleged infringing products, but the streetwear brand “refused to do so,” leading to Nike filing the lawsuit. Nike is asking the court to order Bape to stop selling the infringing products and is requesting monetary damages. 

Both brands did not respond to requests for comment on the lawsuit. 

The Lunar New Year, otherwise known as Chinese New Year, is set to take place on Jan. 22.

This is the Year of the Rabbit, one of the dozen animals that compose the Chinese zodiac. The rabbit is the fourth animal in the Chinese zodiac and, according to some interpretations, is considered the luckiest of the 12 animals. The rabbit symbolizes mercy, elegance and beauty.

Over the past several years, fashion brands have been influenced by the Lunar New Year to create special capsule collections to commemorate the annual affair. This year, brands ranging from Louis Vuitton to Nike have put a sartorial spin on rabbit symbols for special collections.

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Here, a roundup of some of 2023’s Lunar New Year collections. Check back for updates.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s Lunar New Year capsule collection includes a variety of accessories, such as a scarf, beanie, a rabbit cup and a rabbit box. Some of the products feature embroidery of small rabbits and rabbit charms.

New Balance

New Balance is joining in on the Lunar New Year festivities. The sportswear brand is launching eight Lunar New Year-themed sneakers via Atmos. The sneakers feature red and white accents, the celebratory colors of the Lunar New Year.

Nike

The brand is releasing a special colorway of its Nike Dunk Low for the Lunar New Year. Rather than go for the traditional smooth leather, the special-edition sneakers are fitted with a satin overlay, cracked leather toe boxes and quarter panels. The colors include blue, red, teal and yellow.

Jordan Brand

Jordan Brand has joined its Nike counterpart in celebrating the Lunar New Year. The Jordan Luka 1, named after NBA player Luka Dončić, is reimagined in a cream tonal palette and protective TPU overlays in a low-cut design with faded shades of olive accents and red embroidery. While there is no rabbit motif, the Jordan signature logo is done in gold.

Gucci

Gucci annually creates capsule collections for the Lunar New Year, and for 2023 the brand continues with a colorful collection of rabbit-motif merchandise. The collection includes ready-to-wear, bags, shoes and jewelry. Rabbits are woven onto knitwear, embroidered patches and on graphic T-shirts and loafers.

Gucci’s Lunary New Year collection.

Valentino

Valentino has unveiled its Year of the Rabbit capsule collection for the Lunar New Year with a new campaign featuring brand ambassador Sun Li and her younger sister, actress Sun Yan. The collection features red as the base color palette with products including ready-to-wear and accessories. It features plenty of the Lunar New Year’s signature red color.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler gets fiery-red with its Lunar New Year collection. The range includes knits, poplin and leather pieces in a saturated red palette. The signature PS1 handbag is offered in a tango red.

Lyst, the fashion shopping platform that serves 200 million users worldwide, has released its annual year in fashion report. After analyzing data gathered from January to October, the platform concluded that 2022 was Miu Miu’s year.
Searches for the label, which was founded by Miuccia Prada in 1993 as a more personal subbrand to Prada, increased by 49 percent on Lyst year-on-year, and it was mostly driven by viral products such as its ballet flats, as well as the miniskirt, which was first introduced in the brand’s spring 2022 collection.

“The brand’s ballet flats quickly became its most popular product on Lyst following their release, having been worn by the likes of Sydney Sweeney, Bella Hadid and Rosalía. A simpler, Gen Z-friendly version of its 2016 counterpart, it plays into the balletcore and “indie-sleaze” trends that have been dominating the year. With the highly anticipated return of menswear for fall 2022 and a spring 2023 collection that generated more than 23 million views on TikTok, Miu Miu was the brand to watch on the runway,” the report said.

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JW Anderson’s 3D-printed pigeon clutch, introduced in the men’s fall 2022 show, was named the weirdest and most wonderful moment of the year.

Lyst said the clutch is sold out across multiple retailers, and the $890 accessory now comes with a waiting list. It has become the brand’s most viewed product on Lyst, with searches increasing by 488 percent in the first week of October when Sarah Jessica Parker was seen carrying it during the filming of the second season of “And Just Like That,” the sequel to “Sex and the City.”

Bella Hadid is dressed by spraying Fabrican Spray-on fabric during the Coperni spring 2023 fashion show.

AFP via Getty Images

The other “It” bag of this year is Prada’s Re-nylon Re-edition 2000 mini bag. Lyst said over the summer that searches for the item increased 131 percent, and its popularity shot up on TikTok thanks to its Gen Z-friendly ‘90s aesthetic. The hashtag #pradanylonbag generated more than 4.2 million views.

In terms of footwear, Lyst said Birkenstock’s Boston clogs are the hottest shoe of the year, with searches increasing 593 percent in the first six months of 2022. This shoe model also had a high fashion moment this year as it launched a collaboration with Dior Men for the fall 2022 season.

Lyst also namechecked a handful of celebrities responsible for creating some of the most viral moments in 2022.

For example, Hadid, who was named the power dresser of the year by Lyst for triggering an average 1,900 percent increase in searches for similar pieces that she wore, was the model in the creation of the viral Coperni spray-on dress. Lyst said in the days following the show, Coperni saw a staggering 3,000 percent increase in searches, making it the most searched brand from fashion month.

Kim Kardashian in vintage Bob Mackie at the 2022 Met Gala.

Christopher Polk for Variety

Kim Kardashian’s Marilyn Monroe moment at the Met Gala led to a 456 percent spike in Bob Mackie searches, while Elizabeth Debicki as Princess Diana in “The Crown,” where she recreated the famous “revenge dress” scene at the opening of Serpentine Gallery’s summer party in 1994, caused a 58 percent increase in searches for black off-the-shoulder dresses, while demand for black dresses with a sweetheart neckline skyrocketed 103 percent on Lyst.

The filming of Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie, starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling, helped Barbiecore become the trend of 2022, Lyst said. Searches for all things pink on the platform rose 416 percent after pictures of a pink-clad Robbie surfaced in June.

“But the defining pink of the year came courtesy of Valentino. Just a week after the brand’s unique shade of hot pink was presented on its fall 2023 runway, searches increased 152 percent,” the report added.

Other items and events that caused spikes in searches on Lyst include the Diesel 1DR bag, the Jacquemus x Nike collaboration, the “Weird Girl” trend on TikTok, Yvon Chouinard transferring his ownership of Patagonia to the Patagonia Purpose Trust, as well as the black Prada lace dress Sydney Sweeney wore to receive The Rising Star award at Cannes in April.

Sydney Sweeney attends the pink carpet during the 5th Canneseries Festival in Prada

WireImage

Lyst counted Luar, Amesh and Mônot as brands to watch for 2023.

Katy Lubin, vice president of brand and communications at Lyst, said the annual report provides “an opportunity to reflect on the moments that shaped how we shopped.”

“With the recent Y2K fashion renaissance and TikTok’s ever-growing influence on the fashion industry, we’ve seen a new generation of Lyst shoppers rediscovering brands that defined the early ‘00s. Brand of the year Miu Miu and logo of the year Diesel succeeded in capturing the zeitgeist for Gen Z luxury shoppers.

“Major global celebrities continue to have a huge influence when it comes to setting trends alight. Bella, Kylie [Jenner] and Dua [Lipa] were amongst the top tastemakers this year who truly inspired shoppers to add to bag.…They’ve already reached global cult status across the fashion fan spectrum, and look set to be one of the hottest gifting items for the holiday season too,” Lubin said.

The Louis Vuitton menswear division is having a transitional season, after last January’s moving tribute to its late designer, Virgil Abloh, and in the absence of a successor. But if anyone thought the brand would scale back its display for this collection, designed by its in-house team, they were sorely mistaken.
The French luxury house built a giant yellow loop of a runway, like a theme park version of a toy racetrack, in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum, and opened the star-studded show with a high-energy performance by the Florida A&M University marching band, followed by a live set by rapper Kendrick Lamar, who performed from his seat wearing a sparkling crown of thorns.

After all, the show was followed not just by local guests, who fanned themselves furiously against the broiling heat, but a huge global online audience who view fashion as entertainment — a concept that Abloh summed up when he told WWD in 2020: “I look at my studio as a mix between Disney and an art-making studio.”

These clothes were designed to pop on the screen, from outsize suits and coats with flower-shaped buttons, to racing leathers in psychedelic wavy panels; a suit covered in origami paper planes; and two backpacks sprouting giant 3D-printed loudspeakers.

The outfits touched on many of the foundations of Abloh’s four-year tenure, which ended with his abrupt death from cancer last November. His fascination for boyhood was a central theme, with jackets featuring oversized shearling pockets in playdough colors, and coats that dangled charms shaped like sandbox tools.
Abloh’s love of flowers was reflected in the thistle patterns on jacquard coats and suits, and the lavish flower field motif embroidered on the closing look, a green suit overlaid with a trailing split skirt that echoed the poppy field prints of his debut collection in 2018, inspired by “The Wizard of Oz.”
There were nods also to his formative years as a skater in the ‘90s, and his gender-fluid approach to menswear. An acid-wash denim jacket and shorts were paired with chunky purple LV Trainer snow boots, while an orange varsity jacket covered in hand-crocheted patches was worn over tie-dye pants.
Abloh’s playful touch was evident in the accessories, including a Keepall covered in cartoon characters, and object-shaped bags including sandwich box bags with graphics that read “Freshly Baked.”
The show came amid mounting reports that British designer Martine Rose is a contender to succeed Abloh, after chairman and chief executive officer Michael Burke was spotted at her recent show in London, held at former gay spa Chariots. Speaking exclusively to WWD, Burke declined to comment on the rumors.
“I’ve known Martine for some time. She invited me to go to her show. It was on a Sunday afternoon, great weather, interesting venue. It was a nice walk in the park,” he said. “She’s been on the radar for some time, she’s had some critical successes. She’s a good representation of the creativity in London.”
Burke would not say whether a new designer will be named before the next round of men’s shows in January 2023. “We will make an announcement when we’re ready,” he said. “There’s no time pressure.”
For the finale of the show, models walked out holding a rainbow flag in memory of Abloh’s first show for the brand, as Lamar intoned: “Long live Virgil,” and guests including Justin Timberlake, J Balvin and Naomi Campbell warmly cheered.
To be sure, Abloh — whose career spanned music, fashion, art and philanthropy — casts a long shadow. But having rolled out his last collection, including his much-hyped sneaker collaboration with Nike, Vuitton must surely be starting to prepare what comes next.

Lululemon’s workout hijabs are here. 

The “Scarf-style Hijab” by Lululemon.
Courtesy Photo

The athletic apparel, accessories and retailer quietly unveiled its latest creation last week: Lululemon hijabs. 
The head coverings are worn by some Muslim women in public. As a result, Lululemon said its design team consulted with “hijab wearers across the brand’s global collective” to create the assortment, which includes lightweight and moisture-wicking fabrics that “offer adjustable fits and distraction-free features to support guests during their activities of choice and as they move throughout their day.”

Traditional hijabs are worn by some Muslim women in public. Here, Lululemon’s version.
Courtesy Photo

The first two styles — the “Lightweight Performance Hijab” and the “Scarf-style Hijab” — dropped this month. The “OTM Pull-on Hijab” will be available later this year. The garments come in multiple colorways and range in price from $38 to $42 apiece. 

Lululemon’s “Lightweight Performance Hijab.”
Courtesy Photo

Lululemon follows brands such as Nike and Sweaty Betty in releasing exercise hijabs. The company declined to comment more on the launch. But the workout gear is just the latest for the Canadian company, which has expanded into golf and tennis apparel, bags made from mushrooms, resale and at-home fitness, all during the pandemic. Lululemon is also the official outfitter of Team Canada (a role it will retain through 2028).
Meanwhile, the company continues to grow despite industry-wide headwinds. In April, Lululemon set its sights on a $12.5 billion revenue target by 2026.

Photo: Marco Maestri
Simon Porte Jacquemus’s shows in Hawaii, Provence, and Paris have included sport-centric pieces like scuba gear, hiking boots, and swimwear, but when his models walk the Paris runways in late June, they will be playing a whole new game, so to speak: Nearly three years in the making, Jacquemus’s debut collaboration with Nike marries the designer’s love of the outdoors and his body-​conscious aesthetic with Nike’s expertise in making some of the most technically advanced activewear in the world.
“Sport was always super important in the Jacquemus DNA,” says Jacquemus from his Paris office, noting that his 2014 and 2015 collections were grounded by sneakers. “But as Jacquemus grew, the Jacquemus girl changed – she got heels!” he continues, with a laugh. Still, something lingered in his mind. “I always said to myself, If one day I do a collaboration, it will be with Nike.”
Photo: Pablo di Prima
The American sportswear behemoth first connected with the designer in 2018 for a French campaign that featured an image of Jacquemus jumping for a header amid a throng that included the French national soccer team star Kylian Mbappé, and by the start of 2020, the ink was dry on a co-branded collaboration. Jacquemus took his first meeting at Nike’s Beaverton headquarters in Oregon in February of that year.
“Mind-blowing,” he says of days there that consisted of “buying vintage in a cool shop in the mornings, then going hiking, then having a meeting after passing by the swimming pool of the Nike campus” – a lifestyle that blended work with working out, mirroring Jacquemus’s own routine in Paris. (“I haven’t been to the pool today, and I haven’t been on a hike,” he admits when we speak on Zoom, “but I do a lot of sport every morning before coming to the studio.”)
Even two years of remote work – along with getting a puppy, Toutou, and becoming engaged to his longtime partner, French communications executive Marco Maestri (the two are planning an August wedding) – couldn’t slow Jacquemus’s roll, as ideas began to spring forth immediately. Jacquemus, an avid collector of Nike’s ACG (All Conditions Gear) line, wanted to bring that functionality to his own womenswear obsessions, like “late ’90s lace miniskirts, Lady Di’s sport looks, and the DNA of tennis.”
“I wanted to do something super light,” he says. Et voilà: The neutral-​toned womenswear pieces of this new collection marry Jacquemus’s effortlessness and ease with Nike’s technical prowess. Take a pair of pearl-white bike shorts – seemingly as prêt-à-porter as possible, until you realize that they are made without seams, from Nike’s specially engineered knit. That backless dress? It promises to work just as hard at the gym as it would at the club. “Super light, but super sensual,” says Jacquemus of the crux of his collection. “That was my first idea.”
For Nike, bringing that kind of French allure to sport was essential. “We always seek to work with collaborators that offer up something we don’t have as a brand,” says Jarrett Reynolds, Nike’s vice president of Catalyst Apparel Design, which fosters the brand’s more innovative partnerships. “Simon’s superpower is the sensuality of his design and his emotion… he can take the mundane and make it really special.”
Photo: Pablo di Prima
Among the special things in the 15-​piece collection are Humara sneakers with a tiny swoosh; a pleated skirt that calls to mind the on-court uniforms of Jacquemus’s favorite players, Emma Raducanu and Naomi Osaka; and a bucket hat for hikers and bikers of all genders. “I wanted to use this collection to speak to a larger audience,” Jacquemus says. “It was super important to me also for this to not be an elitist collaboration – to have something that everyone can wear.”
The partnership, which is ongoing, will only help Jacquemus expand his impact. Without divulging too much, he alludes to what’s next: “The collection will grow – maybe something more Nike is coming, and then something more in between.” Menswear seems like a must. But in the immediate future, look for Nike X Jacquemus in the backyards of Beaverton, on the hiking trails of Marseille – Simon’s favorites – and everywhere in between.
Maybe even the courts of the French Open, I ask? Jacquemus brightly smiles at the suggestion. “That would be cute!”
Photo: Pablo di Prima
Creative Direction by Simon Porte Jacquemus. 
Read Next: Virgil Abloh-Designed Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1s Sell for US $25.3 Million at Sotheby’s
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk

Nike’s latest shoe — the “Link” — is glueless and designed for disassembly.Debuting in June, the three-part Link (put together like interlocking puzzle pieces) will be part of two model releases showcasing Nike’s innovative strides on its circular design pathway. Any Nike store offering the Recycling & Donation service can take back the shoes, although given the brand’s stance on durability — it’s unlikely that will happen anytime soon. The shoes stand up to the same wear life as conventionally manufactured ones.
In the meantime, customers can anticipate the arrival of Link’s second model.
The latter advancement, dubbed “Link Axis,” features 100 percent recycled polyester in its Flyknit upper, 100 percent recycled thermoplastic polyurethane tooling and 20 percent recycled TPU content in its shell caging, made possible by scrap airbag material.

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The first Link release in June will retail for $225, while the Link Axis, which is on display at the Vitra Design Museum in Germany, will arrive in 2023.
Rather than traditional cut-and-sew methods employed in the Link, the Link Axis is engineered with a precise fit from the team behind it all.
For this, Nike’s ISPA team (with ISPA standing for improvise, scavenge, protect, adapt) was put to the task. As with other efforts under Nike’s net-zero journey under “Move to Zero,” like Nike’s Space Hippie shoe that uses upcycled manufacturing waste, the design philosophy challenges creators to experiment, break molds and reimagine products.
Nike also has explored interlocking designs in past footwear renditions like the 2003 Presto Clip and, on the rarer side, the 2005 Zvezdochka (currently with an asking price of $1,071 on StockX), the latest shoes line up more squarely with Nike’s ambitions.
Acknowledging the progress over decades, Nike’s Darryl Matthews, vice president, catalyst footwear product design, told WWD: “What we see in common is a willingness to question even some of our very basic assumptions about what constitutes footwear: what a shoe can look like, how it’s made, what it’s made from and what the experience of wearing it can be. Both projects demonstrate how circular design thinking can lead us to new places that then move the world forward.”
Matthews added that ISPA hopes to “galvanize” greater creative experimentation across Nike Design and beyond.

Nike’s second model of its Link shoe is the “Link Axis,” slated for 2023.
Courtesy Nike