Fashion and Luxury Brands’ Standout Looks From Salone del Mobile

Fashion and Luxury Brands’ Standout Looks From Salone del Mobile

MILAN — After two pandemic-disrupted years, the 60th edition of the Salone del Mobile furniture and design trade show closed Sunday on an upbeat note.The weeklong trade show drew 262,608 attendees at the Rho-Fiera fairgrounds, 61 percent of them hailing from abroad, to discover the latest collections by 2,175 exhibitors. The attendance tally compares with more than 386,000 visitors in 2019.
The overall sentiment was positive as highlighted by Claudio Feltrin, president of industry association FederlegnoArredo, who praised the fair’s better-than-expected outcome. The executive touted design companies’ resilience and investment prowess and sounded optimistic about prospects despite the current geopolitical instability and supply chain challenges.

“The sector is witnessing a transformation process within society, spurred by the pandemic, that had people rediscover the value of their houses… it’s not a volatile trend, it’s a structural change,” he said.

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While the city center was animated with cocktail receptions, glamorous parties as part of Milan Design Week’s roster of side events, reportedly attracting 400,000 visitors in town, most of the business action happened at the fair.
Reflecting the brisk activity, in 2021 sales of high-end design furnishings reached 40 billion euros, up 14 percent versus 2020 and 7 percent compared to pre-pandemic levels.
According to an Altagamma and Bain & Co. market monitor, the sector is poised to reach 60 billion euros in revenues in 2026 leveraging the second wave of urbanization in China and a growing trend for the wealthiest in the U.S. to move out of cities, a phenomenon described as “wealth ruralization.
As suggested by luxury goods executives, homes are becoming tools of self-expression and customers are looking for functional and hybrid spaces serving different purposes, from shelter to hospitality and work.
Claudia D’Arpizio, senior partner and global head of fashion and luxury at Bain & Co., said after a decade-long underperformance compared to other luxury sectors, the category is booming in light of customers’ renewed interest in their homes.
“In this context, the sector’s companies are required to strategically retool, evolving from manufacturers into retailers to tap into evolving consumption trends, embedding rental options and circularity,” D’Arpizio explained.
There is a growing appetite for branded products, too, which could give way to a renewed interest for luxury brands’ home and furniture divisions, as well as branded residential complexes.
Here, WWD rounds up some of the latest home and furniture collections by fashion luxury brands seen at the fairgrounds.
Diesel Living
Bulking up its home furnishings offerings, Diesel Living returned to the trade show with a trippy-themed collection, as Andrea Rosso, creative director of the OTB brand’s design division, put it.
“We observed that customers are looking for high quality in their private homes, in the lighting and arrangement choices, for example, and in the renewed attention to energy consumption and to sustainability,” Rosso said. “Home décor choices are geared toward well-being and wellness,” he added.

The Diesel executive noted that the experience with the branded residential complex in Miami’s Wynwood district provided additional insight and in light of the upcoming Diesel apartments to bow in Las Vegas’ Arts District, the home division is expected to grow further.
Diesel Living generates 60 to 70 percent of its business in Europe and the remainder in North America. He forecast revenues will increase 20 percent in 2022 compared to the year prior.

The Diesel Living booth at Salone del Mobile in June 2022.
Alessandro Paderni/Courtesy of Diesel Living

Relying on its long-standing partnerships with Lodes for lamps; Moroso for furniture; Scavolini for kitchens; Iris Ceramica for tiles; Berti for flooring; Seletti for tableware; luxury home textile producer Mirabello Carrara, and the recently added Wall&Decò for wallpapers, the brand has expanded its universe.
The 2022 collection was all about psychedelia and included Cloudscape wallpapers and sofas, the latter developed with Moroso using recycled polyester velvet and recycled cotton, as well as a special edition sofa crafted from the same distressed denim with a furry effect that appeared on Diesel’s fall 2022 runway.
A punkish aesthetic resonated in the new lamps, such as Rod with a stem in the shape of a construction tool and Spring, its structure inspired by safety pins. Nodding to the “social house” concept, which will be core to the Las Vegas condo development, the Get Together kitchen developed with Scavolini embeds Diesel’s industrial details, while the latest addition to the tiles collection is Pluriball, a ceramic rendition of the namesake material. Tableware with Seletti had dining sets acid-washed to achieve cosmic patterns.
Roberto Cavalli
At Roberto Cavalli, the “Queen of Cavalli Chair” design conceived by the brand’s creative consultant Fausto Puglisi took the spotlight. A limited-edition item available in 20 pieces, the chair was defined by a neoclassical frame in carved wood and with a black matte finish, which was jazzed up with upholstery splashed with key prints of the brand’s recent fashion collections. These included the label’s signature animal patterns, here rendered in vibrant hues such as yellow, purple, emerald green and fire red. Behind the backrest, each chair carried a metal plaque engraved with the name of the capsule collection and a serial number.

Queen of Cavalli Chair.
Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

In addition to this exclusive design, which was also showcased at the brand’s flagship store in Via Montenapoleone, the Roberto Cavalli Home Interiors collections included new furniture such as the Assal leather sofa with animal printed cushions in matching neutral color as well as the Turkana and Ragali side tables made in the new gray Versilys marble.
Roberto Cavalli Home Interiors is licensed to Oniro Group since 2011, but the fashion house also has licenses for tiles, wallpaper, linens and tableware with Gruppo Cerdisa Ricchetti, Industrie Emiliana Parati, Mirabello Carrara and Arnolfo di Cambio – Compagnia Italiana del Cristallo, respectively. New products under these categories also featured pop animalier prints and opulent Baroque patterns.
Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein banked on Salone del Mobile to unveil its first home and furniture collection developed under license with Eichholtz.
As part of the brand’s most recent investments across fields including hospitality and Web3, it comes as no surprise that the designer and entrepreneur has tapped into the burgeoning and lucrative branded furniture market, offering its signature bold aesthetics and flamboyant style, with 3,800 euro dining chairs upholstered in colorful velvet and 12,000 euro dining tables with an integrated golden palm tree.
“It’s the result of work done with a high-quality partner,” said Carmine Rotondaro, adviser to the Philipp Plein Group. “We have talked with several players over the past years before finding the right partner, but everybody highlighted how the market was booming in terms of sales and CRM opportunities.”
Eichholtz, a business-to-business operator, found in Plein the ideal consumer-facing partner, Rotondaro said. On the other hand, the businessman sees the category as spurring “brand awareness and customers’ recruitment.”
“This is a very important lever to consolidate the brand and a touchstone signaling Plein’s appeal and value,” he said.
The 140-piece collection, which includes velvet sofas punctuated with golden studs, handblown glass lighting and logoed mirrors embedded with NFTs, is complemented by wallpapers developed under license with Italy-based specialist Zambaiti Parati.

The Philipp Plein home and furniture ad campaign.
Ellen von Unwerth/Courtesy of Philipp Plein

The lineup caters to high-spending clients with bold tastes and Rotondaro outlined a strategy that sees the home division tapping into different geographies with the U.S. accounting for 10 percent of the business, Russian speaking countries for 15 to 17 percent, the Germany, Austria and Switzerland, or DACH, area for 15 percent and the rest of the world, especially the Far East, for 45 percent.
“Plein’s creativity has always trickled down to home and furniture. His ‘places,’ be it his houses, shops or showrooms, have always boasted a distinctive look,” Rotondaro said.
Asked about unveiling furniture in the metaverse where the brand has been making bullish investments, Rotondaro said: “We’re not there yet, nor the [metaverse] experience is ripe enough for this…but never say never.”
Etro’s love of colorful prints was toned down a bit for the brand’s home collection, which had exotic undertones and a vintage charm. The palette veered more toward neutral shades lit up with gold and sage green details, while carvalho wood, canaletto walnut wood enriched with golden details, marble, bronze and brass were employed as key materials.
This season Etro introduced an outdoor collection of seats with an iron structure made to look like bamboo canes. The natural theme ran throughout the collection, as the feet of the Delfi bed with the brass and button-tufted frame were also shaped like bamboo canes.

Etro’s Delfi bed.
courtesy of Etro

Etro’s paisley signature pattern lent its shape to the backrest and seat of the Shiraz chair and the Berenice chaise longue showed a light structure in a bronzed finish with cast brass decorative rings.
The Mekong sofa combined exotic nuances with a 1950s vintage-inspired design, with its curved lines reminiscent of the Asian trans-boundary river.
Elie Saab
With its home division launched only two years ago in 2020 in the midst of the pandemic, Elie Saab Maison is gaining momentum and establishing itself in a new category.
In partnership with Swiss home design company Corporate Brand Maison, Elie Saab launched its 2022 collection during Milan Design Week in three different venues, each one with a distinct concept: the “Seduction of Design” showcased at the brand’s showroom in Via Sant’Andrea, the “Theater of Mirrors” at the trade show center and “Le Privè” in Via Martini.

Pieces from Elie Saab Maison’s Edhen outdoor collection.
Image courtesy

Chief executive officer Elie Saab Jr. believes that the home collection gives the brand the opportunity to “go beyond the fashion label” and “complete the identity of the brand.” The license with CB Maison was signed in 2019, while the collection was launched during the lockdown in 2020. Despite the adversity caused by the pandemic, the brand registered steady growth.
“2021 was a great year for Elie Saab and during the first six months of 2022 we doubled the business. We noticed that because of the pandemic, our clients really invested in their homes, many changed houses for a bigger one so they needed renovation and restyling,” stated Massimiliano Ferrari, CEO of corporate brand Maison.
During Salone del Mobile, the fashion company also presented for the first time “Edhen,” its outdoor furniture, which caters to changing lifestyles and the desire to spend more time outdoors. Ferrari noted that “many of our clients bought villas or larger homes with gardens and patios during these two years of pandemic, so we noticed that they wanted to have outdoor furniture that could be stylish, elegant and cool.”
As working from home became more widespread during the pandemic, Ferraris said “customers are choosing the room in the house with the best view as their office. This is why this year, we decided to launch furniture for the office that can be personified and extendable.”

Elie Saab’s Maison Claire desk.
Image courtesy

The collection is produced in Italy’s Brianza area — a key furniture hub in the country — and the company is evolving its sourcing of materials and the use of automatic systems in its lighting that will drastically reduce energy consumption.
Moreover, the brand has ventured into real estate with the completion of residential properties in Dubai (April 2019), Cairo (November 2021), London (December 2021) and Vietnam (June 2022) and will be investing in hospitality projects within the next year.
At the Salone del Mobile trade show, Missoni launched its new tableware collection, in line with the trend of luxury houses increasingly banking on the category. The range was displayed at the booth of Arnolfo di Cambio – Compagnia Italiana del Cristallo, the historic Italian company that has specialized in tableware since 1963, now Missoni’s new licensee. Crafted from materials such as fine bone china, blown glass and silver stainless steel, the collection encompassed teacups, mugs, dinner sets, glasses, vases and knick-knacks, all decorated in the brand’s signature multicolored patterns, including stripes and the zigzag motif. Cutlery was also embellished, with the graphics engraved on handles.

Pieces from the Missoni tableware collection.
Courtesy of Missoni

Along with tableware, Missoni introduced the “Gifting Capsule” range, also designed by Alberto Caliri, the new creative director of the division supervised by Rosita Missoni, after Filippo Grazioli took over the creative helm of the brand’s fashion lines earlier this year.
The limited-edition capsule collection included disparate items that ranged from soft armchairs and poufs to terry bathrobes and bags, as well as patchwork fabric coffee tables and stuffed animals. Coming in different patterns, colors and sizes, they made for unique pieces crafted from Missoni archival fabrics.

The Missoni “Welcome back dreams” installation.
Courtesy of Missoni

Scaled up to giant proportions, stuffed animals were also the protagonists of the two impressive installations Missoni staged in its showroom in the artsy Brera district and in the courtyard of the Università Statale university, dubbed “Welcome back dreams” and “Mega-Verso,” respectively.
Missoni’s joyful geometric patterns additionally covered the Kartell “Eleganza” chair designed by Philippe Starck — the result of a special tie-up between the fashion house and the Italian furniture company.

The Eleganza Missoni chair.
Courtesy of Kartell

For this year’s Milan Design Week, Trussardi creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işık teamed with three designers to create a one-of-a-kind home capsule collection, showcased at the Palazzo Trussardi venue in Piazza della Scala as part of a cultural exchange.
For the collection, Mark Grattan created a coffee table, an upholstered bench, a couch and a mirror using materials such as velvet and stainless steel. The designer is known for his unconventional and one-of-a-kind pieces and his home in Mexico City has become a mecca for interior designers. He added a European and Milanese flair to the collection, thanks to the inclusion of neutral tones and the predominance of gray. “Infiltrating the European market and expanding my reach makes me feel so grateful,” he said.

A piece from Trussardi’s capsule collection with Mark Grattan.
Courtesy image / Federico Torra

The chair created by the Brazilian and Milanese-based sculptor Kiri-Una Brito Meumann explores the artist’s cultural heritage and the use of materials coming from her native country, including natural rubber and cream silicone aged over several years. “The inspiration came whilst I was staying in Una, a small town in Bahia, Brazil last December. I spent most of the days crowded around the table full of food and family members and I realized that the most used chair is the dining chair,” explained the designer.

The chair created for Trussardi’s home capsule collection with Kiri-Una Brito Meumann.
Courtesy image / Federico Torra

With his creation “Eclipse,” a mirror that resembles the “on/off” button on many devices, Prem Sahib wondered if the object reflects or conceals? “Does it appear ‘on’ or ‘off’? Is it looking back?” he asked.

“Eclipse” by Prem Sahib created for Trussardi’s home collection.
Courtesy image / Federico Torra

This provocative and metaphorical creation was created using obsidian, a black volcanic glass the artist discovered “for the first time at the archeological excavation in Pompei.”

Target Taps Rachel Comey, Victor Glemaud, Nili Lotan and Sandy Liang for Fall Designer Collection

Target Taps Rachel Comey, Victor Glemaud, Nili Lotan and Sandy Liang for Fall Designer Collection

Target has some new designer friends, including Rachel Comey, Victor Glemaud, Sandy Liang and Nili Lotan. 
The big-box retailer revealed its Fall Designer Collection on Monday. The limited-edition assortment consists of more than 180 pieces, ranging in price from $15 to $80 and sizes XXS to 4X.  

Looks from the fall 2021 Target Designer Collection by Victor Glemaud. 
Courtesy Photo

“For the past 20 years, our guests have continued to express excitement when we introduce them to new and emerging designers from across the globe, all at an incredible value,” Jill Sando, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at Target, said in a statement. “This fall, we’re building upon that legacy and bringing together four dynamic and highly regarded designers to introduce a collection of inclusive, on-trend and timeless fashion staples to re-energize guests’ wardrobes for the fall season.”

The retailer has a long history of showcasing designers in its stores and online. In April, Target tapped Christopher John Rogers, Alexis and Rixo for its 2021 Designer Dress Collection. The company has also previously worked with LoveShackFancy, Cushnie, Lisa Marie Fernandez, Zac Posen, Anna Sui, Rodarte, Missoni, Phillip Lim, Jason Wu and Lilly Pulitzer, among others.

Pieces from Target’s fall 2021 Designer Collection by Sandy Liang. 
Courtesy Photo

Meanwhile, the company’s apparel assortment continues to grow, even with so many consumers working from home over the last year-and-a-half. In the most recent quarter, apparel sales grew 60 percent, year-over-year, thanks to strength across loungewear, innerwear, activewear, men’s wear and children’s apparel. That’s in addition to a number of private-label partnerships at Target, including Levi’s and Journelle, and the mass merchant’s own apparel brands, such as activewear label All In Motion. 
“So apparel has been one of our strengths,” Brian Cornell, chairman and chief executive officer of Target, told reporters in November. “And certainly from a market-share standpoint, one of the real highlights from our business throughout the quarter. And we certainly see that continuing as we finish up the year.”

Palm Angels, Missoni Unveil Co-branded Collection

Palm Angels, Missoni Unveil Co-branded Collection

MILAN — “I’ve always wanted to do a collaboration with him, but I was waiting for him to ask me,” said Angela Missoni, discussing the Missoni partnership with Palm Angels and its founder and creative director Francesco Ragazzi. The two fashion labels teamed on a co-branded men’s and women’s collection that will hit stores on June 30.
Consisting of a full lineup of 150 pieces, the collection will be sold at the brands’ online stores and physical shops, but also through a retail network of around 60 high-end boutiques and department stores worldwide.
Missoni and Ragazzi are no strangers since they are part of an extended family. Ragazzi is, in fact, the nephew of Bruno Ragazzi, Missoni’s longtime partner.

“When I was young, I wanted to become a fashion photographer and Angela was the first to bring me on the set giving me the opportunity to learn the skills [that] became so important in my career as art director for Moncler,” said Ragazzi, who established the Palm Angels fashion line in 2015 following the publication the previous year of a photographic book collecting images of skateboarders he shot in Venice. Palm Angels is under the umbrella of New Guards Group, the Italian fashion group controlled by Farfetch.
Ragazzi admitted that the idea of doing a collaboration with Missoni was something that had been crossing his mind for a while, but that he wanted to find the right moment to do it. “Before, Palm Angels was too small to have the ambition of working with Missoni, but now I think we are ready for this type of high-profile collaboration,” the designer said, adding that the project “took shape over a cup of coffee with Angela.”

In order to develop the collaboration, Missoni opened the company’s archives to Ragazzi, who had the chance to deep dive into the brand’s kaleidoscopic world of colors, patterns and textures.
“It has been super exciting,” Ragazzi said. “The Missoni archives have been the starting point, but then I had the chance to break free and combine the world of Missoni with the world of Palm Angels into something new that speaks the language of both brands.”
“I really appreciate the fact that Francesco found so much inspiration in our world and that he thinks that our established brand has still a lot to say, also to the new generations,” Missoni said. “I’ve always believed that this is the path that needs to be walked in order to approach new generations, without losing our identity, our DNA, our iconic style. I think that one of the secrets behind Missoni’s longevity is the fact that it’s trans-generational and nowadays that’s something more important than ever since what really matters now is not your age, but your mentality.”
Strongly inspired by the Missoni fall 2018 collection, where Angela Missoni looked to the positive, happy vibe of New York City in the late ’70s/early ’80s, the collection is injected with Palm Angels’ signature urban, relaxed and cool vibe.
The lineup includes tracksuits and zippered cardigans showing signature Missoni patterns, and hoodies in solid tones decorated with waistbands or drawstrings in graphic motifs. Spray paint splatters pepper sweatshirts, oversize T-shirts and dresses, while trousers, suits and skirts are cut with sharp, clean lines.

A co-branded logo was created starting from an oval Missoni logo dating back to the ’70s. “It comes from one of the first collaborations developed by Missoni with Emmanuelle Khanh,” said Ragazzi, who first saw it in an archival image splashed on the back of a top worn by a model lensed on Milan’s Via Manzoni at night.
The Palm Angels x Missoni collection, retailing from 160 euros to 2,500 euros, also includes berets, sneakers, sandals and totes, all injected with a street appeal.
The lineup will be promoted through images shot by David Sims that will also be featured on billboards in Miami, where Palm Angels is opening a boutique next week.
The launch of the collection reflects Missoni’s current strategy aimed at revamping the brand’s image and offering to make it more appealing to younger generations. Earlier this month, the label unveiled the launch of a sustainable sneaker range developed in collaboration with Milan-based footwear start-up ACBC — the acronym stands for Anything Can Be Changed — that is a specialist in the production of eco-friendly shoes.
As reported, Missoni has revealed that longtime creative director Angela Missoni, the daughter of founders Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, was stepping down from her role, while remaining as president of the fashion house. She was succeeded at the helm of the women’s line by her right arm, Alberto Caliri, who made his debut as creative director with the resort 2022 collection. The men’s line, which was previously designed by Angela Missoni, is now creatively led by a design team. As part of the reorganization strategy, Missoni collections are now distributed across Italy, France, Benelux, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Russia by the Italian showroom Brama Group. 
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Angela Missoni to Exit Creative Director Role

Angela Missoni to Exit Creative Director Role

MILAN — Missoni’s reorganization continues “under the evolution of continuity,” said chief executive officer Livio Proli, and one of the first main tangible signs is a change in the brand’s creative direction, as Angela Missoni has decided to take a step back from the role she has held for the past 24 years.
While maintaining her role as president of the company, she will be succeeded ad interim by Alberto Caliri, who has been her “right hand” for the past 12 years and whose first collection will bow for spring 2022.
In an interview with WWD, Proli presented his five-year plan for Missoni and underscored the “absolute common purpose” shared by the Missoni family and FSI, the Italian fund that took a 41.2 percent stake in the family-owned company in 2018, in restructuring the company after the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.

“Angela is showing sensibility and courage as well as foresight with this decision, which will contribute to kick-start the third cycle of the company with a new injection of energy and creative strength,” said Proli. “She will accompany the evolution of the brand, but she realized she would have conditioned [influenced] the company in staying on” as creative director.
Caliri is tasked with expanding Missoni’s reach, targeting new customers. “We have an extremely loyal customer base of over-40s but we need to open up to a new pool of consumers, including Millennials, but this is not about age, it’s rather about a mind-set — you can wear Missoni with the same freshness whether you are 35 or 60,” explained the executive. The designer is also asked to expand the collections with a more extensive range of products, including entry price items. “This however does not mean we are trading down, on the contrary, the brand will continue to be positioned in the luxury range. Entry prices will still be of the highest quality.”

Missoni’s first show under Caliri’s lead will be held in September, “hopefully not digital,” said Proli and the focus will be on women’s wear, with “maybe a few men’s looks.” He admitted there are interesting opportunities to develop the brand’s men’s category, but as a first step the focus will be on women’s wear and on the signature line.
Angela’s first steps within the family’s company were on the Missoni kids line, followed by jewelry and fragrances. Around 1991, she felt she wanted to do her own apparel line and started Team Angela Missoni with two friends. After working for two years with her mother Rosita, who at the time was designing the fashion signature line, Angela took her first bow alone on the catwalk in October 1997.
Her first step was to clean up the brand, give it an identity and lighten up the weight of the pieces — something the increasingly sophisticated technology over the years has continued to help her achieve. She also reworked the graphic effects. She has argued that the brand had become synonymous with knitwear and was too sportswear-oriented. She went back to her mother’s original dresses and rearranged the prints, reintroduced evening wear, Lurex threads, and a ’70s’ inspiration, which were immediately well-received.

While relying on a history spanning over 70 years and a brand that has not been tarnished and with “a distinctive” identity, Proli conceded it needs to be “dusted off and made more relevant and cool. We want to offer elements of surprise in a more modern language while not betraying Missoni’s roots. ”
Proli, a Giorgio Armani Group veteran who joined the company in May last year, has been working on the 2020-2025 business plan with the shareholders. The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic eroded top and bottom lines, and the company in June will report a loss for last year and a 33 percent decrease in revenues compared with 2019. Sales in 2019 totaled 110 million euros, including the aggregation of the home line, designed by honorary president Rosita Missoni, who founded the company with her late husband Ottavio, affectionately called Tai, in 1953.

Livio Proli 
courtesy image

However, while this and next year will continue to be “difficult,” Proli sees Missoni returning to a position of strength in 2023 and report double-digit growth in 2025. “Our goal is a sustainable and durable growth, without compromising quality. FSI is not an aggressive fund. This is a business so of course we must return to profitability, but shareholders know the value of the company is beyond the balance sheet,” Proli observed.
He said the company has secured new funds through a pool of banks to navigate 2021 and 2022 and confirmed investments of a minimum of 20 million euros over the next four years. Proli admitted the pandemic was “dramatic” but that it also caused the company to take significant steps to restructure.
As reported in March, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, Angela’s daughter, said she was relinquishing her role of creative director of the M Missoni line, whose future remains  uncertain.
The reorganization also sees the sons of the late Vittorio Missoni, Angela’s brother, take on new roles.
Giacomo was named president and CEO of Missoni USA, while Ottavio, formerly president of Missoni USA, is now in charge of sustainability, a newly formed department. “There’s so much talk about sustainability now but the Missonis have embodied this for so long,” said Proli, citing a few examples, such as growing their vegetable garden since the ‘90s and consistently recovering yarns. “We are studying eco-friendly concept stores to bow in our outlets from 2022 and working on sustainable packaging and labeling.”

The importance of the family, which holds 58.8 percent of the shares, and the values transmitted through the generations, remain central, said Proli, starting from Rosita Missoni, who will turn 90 in November, and who remains in charge of the home collection, a brand pillar that contributes to build Missoni as a lifestyle brand.
“Despite the pandemic, we have received many interested calls even before the presentation of the relaunch plan because people understand there is great potential in the relaunch of the brand,” contended Proli.
In the first quarter, sales have risen 20.5 percent, he said. The brand’s website saw a 54 percent spike in revenues and the home line a 43 percent gain. He said that, despite the closure of stores, strong signals came through the sales on Farfetch.
Entering China and further building the American market are priorities of the five-year plan presented by Proli. After opening a branch in Shanghai earlier this year, Missoni will open its first flagship in China in that city, which will carry all the brand’s products, and join Tmall. Eight openings in China are planned between 2022 and 2024, in “a prudent approach,” he remarked.
“America has shown a quick restart,” said Proli, confident in the brand awareness in that market. In addition to an active online presence, Missoni will open two new stores in two years and “Giacomo is working to reopen a conversation with department stores.”
Globally, there are 20 Missoni stores and the plan is to reach 46 units by 2025.
Proli was candid about limiting the family of accessories for the brand, given that the category is not part of Missoni’s expertise. “For this reason, we are thinking of soft bags, maybe mixed with knits, as in our knit sneakers. This does not mean that we are giving up on the category and perhaps in the future we could think of buying an accessories brand or sign a license.”
Asked if capsules are also in the pipeline, given the popularity with many of Missoni’s competitors, Proli said “yes, especially for shoes and bags in the next half of the year. But we don’t plan to flood the market, these will be measured.”
Investing in innovation, “realizing that textile design experts are rare,” Luca Missoni, Angela’s brother, is launching a new training center called Missoni Lab in Sumirago, Italy, where the company is based. Tai Missoni’s simple yet efficient system to create the famous zigzags and flame patterns — a series of small colored lines drawn on checked paper with matching shreds of yarn to indicate the sequence for the looms — is still used at the company, but the Lab will help digitize and modernize the system, Proli said. Missoni has acquired new modern looms and students starting September will go through lessons in the morning and actual training in the afternoons. “There are talented students out there but technicality can be an obstacle, so they have to learn to turn their creativity into reality.” The one-year training will be equally supported by FSI and by Missoni. “We want to bring back Rosita and Tai’s avant-garde curiosity,” said Proli.

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