Milan Fashion Week

Jil Sander RTW Spring 2023

Jil Sander RTW Spring 2023

What rain? What distance? All the complaints the fashion crowd might have had about reaching the Jil Sander location on the outskirts of Milan in the pouring rain were silenced the moment Lucie and Luke Meier sent their spring collection down the runway — hands down one of the highlights of the week.

In a grand set-up — a roofless white box in the middle of a field, with black sand on the floor and a wild garden of flowers, trees and greenery dividing the space inside — the designers went back to their early days at the brand by staging a coed show.

This was a display of fashion force, which exhibited the charm of the Meiers’ codes. Precision, a sense of ease and proportion, research into fabrics, crafty details and a unique color sensibility inform their approach.

For spring, the designers magnified these core elements while heightening the eccentricity they have been increasingly injecting into the brand. The approach fit with the collection’s theme, an exploration of the West Coast and California — a journey the Meiers started with the men’s resort 2023 range — and the duality between pragmatism and Hollywood glitz.

Working with elongated silhouettes, the duo offered relaxed takes on tailoring, including jackets and vests with generous single point lapels as well as lean, round-neck tank tops worn with roomy Bermuda pants or kilts. All these items made for a shared wardrobe across men’s and women’s, along with other staples such as high-waisted pleated trousers or cargo pants in fluid fabrics.

Embellishments followed: cascades of sparkly fringes, crystal embroideries and mirror appliqués in the shape of clouds (or perhaps puddles, given the rain) worked well on both genders. So did a thick crochet technique with sequins used on tank tops, minidresses and bags.

Feathers and chic, lightweight frocks with draped or pleated details added to the collection’s movement and rich texture, which peaked in the finale of sequined, fringed skirts worn with minimal tanks. Their swaying glory somehow seemed even more special as models gracefully held umbrellas under the gloomy sky.

“Nature wins every time,” commented Luke Meier about the weather. It wasn’t the only winner of the day.

Philipp Plein RTW Spring 2023

Philipp Plein RTW Spring 2023

“This show is about sex, tofu and rock ‘n’ roll,” said Philipp Plein, taking the mic Friday night to mark the brand’s return to the runway for the first time since COVID-19. He was referring to the brand’s foray into vegan fashion, which he credits to partner Lucia Bartoli, who recently gave birth to their baby boy.

“I create shows for you, for the clients, for people who love the brand. This is for Milano,” he continued, rallying the crowd before introducing Tommy Lee. He took his own god-like spin down the catwalk, stopping to pose for the photographers, before stripping off his jacket and taking his place at the drums on a raised platform.

It was a moment. Particularly because star-crossed lovers Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee in their prime ’90s to Y2Kness, as seen in the recent hit Hulu series “Pam & Tommy,” could be mascots for this fashion season.

Earlier Saturday night, another famous face of that era, Paris Hilton, walked the runway at Versace in a bit of stunt casting. Paris Jackson walked this one, and there was a Pamela doppelganger, too, with blown out blonde hair, low cut dress and pin thin heels. She didn’t go unnoticed.

The collection delivered on Plein’s promise, but with less raunch (and fewer logos) than in some seasons past, and more of a luxury sportswear lifestyle direction. There were even hints of Tommy Hilfiger, and not just because he had another tatted drummer, Travis Barker, performing at his show. They should have a fashion drum-off.

Well, clearly, there’s no supply chain issue with crystals, because they rained down all over this runway (and others), where ripped denim cropped jackets and baggy jeans, micro-mini Y2K tweed mini skirt suits and barely there mesh dresses were hyper blinged.

Most of it looked good, and the work was impressive, especially on allover crystal embroidered floral and heart tattoo motif pants, a psychedelic rainbow patterned crystal leggings that were jewels for the bod.

For when the occasion calls for something a bit more subtle, or at least tailored, Plein offered rock ‘n’ roll suiting, a black bolero with lightening bolt crystal lapels paired with low slung pants and a crystal encrusted thong, for example. Men’s tux jackets and overcoats were also iced.

Biker, beach and street culture also made their way into the lineup, on a aqua blue floral printed moto jacket, camp shirt and shorts set worn with studded flip flops; tattoo print swimwear; tie-dye or allover shorts sweat suits; varsity jackets, and tennis sweaters.

There were plenty of black leather looks for those who want to dress like vintage Tommy, when he’s dressed that is.

Everybody loved it. The models were dancing along with the rapper CJ before they even left the runway.

GCDS RTW Spring 2023

GCDS RTW Spring 2023

They came wearing SpongeBob SquarePants pasties, masked mesh bodysuits and crystal thong backless jeans…at Giuliana Calza’s Alien Disco, all were welcome.

“I wanted to investigate why we go to clubs, put on a dress and do our nails, to be ourselves,” said designer Giuliana Calza. “And, of course, it has to be provocative because sometimes in life messages are only heard when they’re provocative.”

More than just a party, GCDS is a message of acceptance that resonates as much as anything that comes down the runway. That’s what the designer focused on for spring, which was all the more striking against the backdrop of this weekend’s upcoming election that’s expected to swing Italy to the far right.

“It scares me and it’s really personal,” Calza said. “I always thought Italy was the place where ideas could have space and this does not seem to be the case…I want to stay here, I was able to create all of this…Made in Italy that could go everywhere on Blackpink, on Beyoncé, and be a pride for this country. But if I cannot celebrate my culture or the people around me, I won’t be able to do it,” he continued, vowing to turn his attention to helping to get out the vote as soon as the show concluded.

On the runway, at least, it was all about self-love, inclusion, body liberation and freedom of expression, with a noticeable elevation in materials, embroideries and techniques.

A shredded yellow acid wash denim bra top and maxiskirt, a floaty pink bias-cut SpongeBob decorated gown, and electric-bright tailoring with knotted details would all be red carpet contenders. More everyday wear also packed a punch, with a rainbow beaded cropped top, acid washed denim wrap mini, overalls and cargo pants to keep the Ibiza beach vibes going well past sunrise.

“I’m not done with streetwear, this takes a lot of inspiration from streetwear, I just think my world is getting bigger,” said the designer. “Now that I have such a big community, I need to talk about individuality. Mass is no longer working for us,” he said, commenting beyond the scope of the runway, perhaps.

SpongeBob was a mascot on a beaded minibag and a chunky hand-knit patch worked football jersey. “He has no sexuality or prejudice, he likes to embrace everything,” Calza said. “That’s how we should see the new generation.”

Fendi RTW Spring 2023

Fendi RTW Spring 2023

Silvia Venturini Fendi, with her uniform of shirt jackets, pants and heirloom jewelry, is the picture of “functional utility alongside femininity.”

Those four words sum up how Kim Jones characterizes his exploration at Fendi, and the core of the spring collection, his youngest and sprightliest effort yet for the Roman house, full of zesty colors, sexy shapes and a keen sense of fun.

The British designer has always said the women in his inner circle are his touchstones and sounding boards at Fendi, headlined by Venturini Fendi and her daughter Defina Delettrez Fendi, also his chief creative accomplices. And the initial feedback suggests the cargo pants are a hit.

Done up in satin and with the same double-F hardware found on the Baguette bag, whose 25th anniversary Jones just marked at a blowout show in New York with Marc Jacobs as his co-conspirator, these pants are likely to be seen on many off-duty models next season. Ditto the rubber platform shoes in quirky colors like mint — and the Rolls-Royce of jeans jackets, in closely cropped shearling and irresistible in camel.

The late Karl Lagerfeld, who designed Fendi’s fur and ready-to-wear for more than 50 years, is another guiding light for Jones, who homed in on the German designer’s collections from 1996 to 2002. He reprised a floral print and a logo from those years, and its overall spirit of “minimalist ease and pop-infused eclecticism,” according to the press notes.

“We go back and we look at everything — and then I pull out the things that I think are relevant,” Jones explained backstage before the show, explaining that he added in the vivid pinks, blues and greens afterwards to spice up the house’s base palette of neutrals.

While the shapes were pared down, the materials were not. Cue tabard-simple tops and dresses made of intricately woven leather, and T-shirt dresses and tops knitted from recycled mink.

Jones also had a strong feeling for satin this season, employed for sinuous dresses, skirts and apron-like appendages, but also as the lining for nip-waisted jackets and pencil skirts so meticulously finished they can be worn inside-out.

Obi-style belts threaded through the notched waists of coats and jackets looked a bit tricky, but signaled that Jones is starting to introduce elements from Fendi’s couture runway.

The designer also reached back to 1994 and brought back a leather version of a paper Fendi shopping bag, adding a chunky chain to give it a 2023 touch.

Most of the other bags were small, including a more rigid, architectural version of the Peekaboo and a minuscule version of the Fendi First, Jones’ first “It” bag, slung on a necklace and able to hold perhaps a few Tic Tacs.

Milan Fashion Week September’s Edition Packed With Debut Shows

Milan Fashion Week September’s Edition Packed With Debut Shows

MILAN — September’s Milan Fashion Week, running from Sept. 20 to Sept. 26, is poised to be a packed affair, with 67 mostly physical shows, highly anticipated debuts and a bunch of returning designer brands.Among the creatives presenting their first collections for storied houses is Marco de Vincenzo, the newly named creative director at Etro, who will make his debut at the helm of the storied Italian brand. For it, he picked a location on the outskirts of the city for the Sept. 23 event, which takes place a few hours after Filippo Grazioli’s revamped vision for Missoni. This will mark Grazioli’s first catwalk since joining the brand as creative director in March. He was already responsible for the resort and men’s spring collections unveiled via presentations earlier this summer.

The following day, Sept. 24, a couple of additional eagerly awaited debuts are taking place: Salvatore Ferragamo, which showed via a presentation last season as it prepared a change of creative guard, is back with a coed show designed by newly installed creative director Maximilian Davis, while Bally, which had traditionally hosted presentations, is making its debut on the runway with the first collection designed by Rhuigi Villaseñor, the Manila-born designer behind the Rhude brand.

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Moncler will cap off that day celebrating its 70th anniversary with a runway event at 9 p.m. CET.
According to the provisional calendar issued Friday by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the week officially kicks off on Sept. 20 with the Milano Moda Graduate event, the fashion organizing body’s awards for graduate collections.
Although a couple of show slots later that evening are still being assigned, fashion folks can expect the real action to start on Sept. 21, when the We Are Made in Italy collective of designers and fashion professionals of color is showing digitally, followed by Antonio Marras, who’s making a return to the official calendar with a physical runway show after a few seasons of presentations, showroom appointments and a runway event held in Russia last February.
That will be followed by, among others, Diesel and Fendi. Although the latter brand is headed to New York Fashion Week to celebrate the 25th anniversary of its hit Baguette handbag, which as reported in WWD, could involve a tie-up with Marc Jacobs, its spring 2023 collection is hitting Milan as usual. Diesel, meanwhile, is opening up its show to the public, as is Anteprima, which is marking its 30th anniversary.
Vivetta and Stella Jean are also returning to the calendar on Sept. 23 after a few years of absence.
As reported, Matty Bovan is decamping from London to Milan, supported by Dolce & Gabbana, with a physical show on Sept. 25, while this season’s Valentino- and Camera della Moda-endorsed designers, Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin from Act N.1, will show on Sept. 22.
On the penultimate night, the Camera della Moda will hold the Sustainable Fashion Awards event at La Scala theater bestowing 12 awards. As reported, the soirèe will be hosted by actress Rossy de Palma.
The last day will only feature digital presentations, including Mmusomaxwell, one of the few new names on the schedule, helmed by design duo Mmuso Potsane and Maxwell Boko and based in Johannesburg.

The presentation schedule has yet to be released, and a final version of the calendar will be issued on Sept. 7, the Camera della Moda said.

The Relaxed Suit Rules Milan for Spring 2023

The Relaxed Suit Rules Milan for Spring 2023

MILAN —  “It was terrific to be back in Milan.”The comment from Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, echoed the general sentiment of retailers in the city, after the mainly digital menswear shows of recent seasons due to the pandemic. Pask said Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which closed on Tuesday, “really highlighted the best of Italian menswear. We saw the real strength of collections that epitomize the craftsmanship, creativity and supreme quality of the ‘made in Italy’ moniker. There was an assertion of brands here doing what they do best, representing tradition with great development and forward thinking. There was lightness and fluidity, a casual elegance to a lot of the collections we saw, and a real assertion of spring seasonality that was refreshing.”

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To be sure, while a return of tailoring was welcomed by retailers, designers opted for a more modern, nonchalant take on suits, often offered as separates. Soft fabrics and comfort were key, as was lightness and a sense of freedom and ease. “There’s an underlying message about having fun getting dressed again,” said Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom Inc. men’s fashion and editorial director.
Denim is back, washed and faded and in a new relaxed version — no sign of stretch or body-hugging styles anywhere. Refreshing color palettes and plenty of Bermuda shorts contributed to the summery feel of the looks. Trends included fuller proportions, light knitwear and innovative luxurious fabrics.
Retailers relished the experience of Zegna’s show at the company’s headquarters with a view of Oasi Zegna and Prada’s always innovative set, which added excitement to the events. The two brands — together with Fendi, Versace and Brioni — were also among the favorites of the season.
Here is a roundup of what buyers had to say:
Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a highly anticipated show that signified the importance of a timeless collection. There was a perfect balance of youthfulness and fundamental dressing. Suits were sharp and tailored, and overcoats were red-checkered and playful. Ms. Prada and Mr. Simons provided us with the best wardrobe choices for spring, from striped knitwear to denim shirting and shorts. The collection, walked against a backdrop famed by architect Rem Koolhaas, provided an environment that was equally as elegant and timeless. Versace showcased a collection filled with powerful and self-expressive pieces that signified Donatella’s return and commitment to menswear. The Zegna collection was a testament to the beauty, journey and interrelation of fashion and sustainability. Silvia Fendi’s collection for Fendi felt highly wearable with the incorporation of directional patterns and fabrications that honored familiar menswear silhouette codes.
Best presentation concept: Kiton, Canali and Santoni.
Trendspotting: We are seeing trends reflect the evolution of the post-pandemic wardrobe. The customer is looking to return to the art of dressing without losing the touch of comfort they have learned to appreciate, which was seen in key trends such as soft tailoring, deconstructed blazers, updated formalwear, silk shirting, denim wovens, open knitwear, relaxed denim pants, short suits, crochet, linen blends, technical and terry fabrications, rubber clogs, double bags and lanyard bags.

Santoni, spring 2023
Courtesy image/Santoni

Must-have item: A relaxed linen blend double-breasted sport coat.
General comment on the season: Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week was a celebration of charisma, casual elegance, modern tailoring and sustainably-minded collections. With the heat wave in Milan, our team was even more attentive and excited to experience the spring 2023 shows and presentations. An overall sense of happiness, ease and lightness was seen throughout the collections, such as JW Anderson and Giorgio Armani. Linen blends, relaxed silhouettes, and sporty yet sophisticated, technical pieces took center stage with refreshing color palettes like powder blue, mellow-yellow, neon green and pink incorporated throughout. The week overall represented a positive return of men’s fashion and felt like a stamp of approval for a new era of menswear.
Bosse Myhr, Selfridges director of menswear and womenswear

Favorite collections: JW Anderson’s arrival in Milan was certainly a highlight. The collection featured a variety of abstract looks that looked fantastic against the disused factory backdrop.
Best presentation concept: The Prada show setup is always hard to beat. A giant supersized paper house provided an excellent and beautiful backdrop for the collection. Also, the Zegna presentation outside Milan. It was on the roof of the Zegna factory. Just at sunset models started to walk out and showed a beautiful elegant collection with sneakers looking exceptional.
Trendspotting: It’s time to dust off those tailored jacket as there is definitely a more sophisticated and structured approach this season that we observed. Sharply tailored suits and mix-and-match jackets are probably the must have this season. The other trend we sensed was Venice Beach, Dsquared2 being a prime example.
Buying process: It was hot this season — temperatures reached 40 degrees Celsius [104 degrees Fahrenheit] at some shows. However, after two years of mainly video presentations and remote buying, it for sure is great to be back in person.
General comment on the season: Milan put up a great show overall.
Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom men’s fashion and editorial director
Favorite collections: The electric brights at Versace were an early standout, as well as the use of the house’s signature ceramics as high-end accessories. Prada’s reimagining of menswear pieces like trenchcoats and Harrington jackets in Western-esque ginghams that were complemented by their new cowboy boots [stodd out]. Our Legacy’s relaxed take on tailoring and innovative interpretations of denim looked especially great this season. Zegna’s imaginative tailoring and new footwear collaboration with Mr. Bailey — shown in the heart of Oasi Zegna — showed why it’s one of the most exciting Italian brands we’re working with at the moment.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s paper runway built inside the Fondazione Prada was a sight to behold.
Trendspotting: Cobalt blue is definitely a statement color making a prominent comeback. The influence of the 1970s on louche tailoring, wovens and trousers is only reinforced by the recent announcement that Harry Styles will be working on a collection with Gucci inspired by the era’s rockers.
Must-have item: A New York Knicks-inspired check suit made from a recycled cotton blend from Angelo Urrutia’s 4SDesigns.
General comment on the season: Spring 2023 reflects a relaxed approach to tailoring and new ways for men to look as elegant as ever.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Fendi’s fresh take on denim, with fringed jean shorts, tote bags, pullovers and fuller-legged five pockets was great. Breezy, fluid tailoring with center vents split right up the back worn with shorts gave the collection an easy sophistication. Brioni’s collection was the epitome of the quiet elegance we’ve seen this season, with an airiness to the impeccably soft tailoring and sportswear that was styled with such appealing personality. Kiton’s innovative, luxurious tailored fabrications, chic silhouettes and relaxed knit pairings were a highlight of their first fashion week evening celebration. I really enjoyed the bright saturated colors, soft fabrics and bold, wearable outfit combinations at Massimo Alba. Altea was also a favorite, with great easy sportswear pieces in soft cotton and linen in colorful dyes, prints and vivid solids.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show held atop the roof of the company’s lanificio in the heart of the Oasi Zegna nature preserve in the hills outside of Milan was truly an unforgettable experience. Alessandro Sartori continued his explorations of proportion and the ease of monochromatic uniform dressing in a properly monumental way, all as the sun just crested the hill. An honorable mention must go to Brioni for its tranquil garden setting at a theological university that was the perfect environment to highlight the lightness, comfort and craftsmanship of Norbert Stumpfl’s elegant collection. Beautifully styled mannequins were placed throughout the courtyard in small groups engaged with each other, heads tilted as if in conversation, with great personality. Drapery shading the walkways gently rippled in the breeze, adding to the airy feeling of the clothing.
Trendspotting: We’re seeing an emphasis on easier, fuller proportions with dropped shoulders and wider-legged pants, especially denim, often puddling over footwear, making a big statement. Linen, a warm weather staple, has been a dominant fabrication in a variety of weights and treatments, in most silhouettes in a wide color palette. Tailoring had a significant presence throughout the collections, especially in lightweight, deconstructed “barely there” jackets styled in relaxed, elegant ways and including a strong component of eveningwear. There has also been a welcome increase in the presence of neckties in dressed up sartorial looks. Bold, saturated color and strong patterns as well as contrasting softer pale, neutral shades, especially in tones of muted greens, were fresh and appealing. We’ve seen a growing presence of casual dress footwear especially in flexible loafers and varieties of slip-ons that will be perfect to add to our customers’ spring options.

Prada, men’s spring 2023
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Must-have item: A Prada checked trenchcoat, a boldly colored plaid sport jacket from Kiton, Fendi denim jeans and shorts, a pale linen suit or sport jacket from Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni’s unconstructed navy seersucker suit, a great jacquard evening jacket, and suede slip-ons.
Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion

Favorite collections: Prada was an absolute standout. From the Koolhaas paper set to the outerwear and the boots, it was Raf and Ms. Prada at their strongest. Etro’s sensual approach with transparency, perforations and breezy fabrics was a memorable swan song.
Best presentation concept: They’ve worked together for 18 years, but Koolhaas’ “resistance to luxury” set at Prada was thought-provoking and the pair continue to push concepts together each season.
Trendspotting: Fantastic outerwear and leather shorts at Prada, louche shirting at Etro.
Must-have item: Wales Bonner belted trench, Wales Bonner denim, basically everything from Wales Bonner and the Prada boot. Oh, and Wales Bonner’s shoes!
General comment on the season: As we felt with Pitti where Wales Bonner stepped it up, there’s a feeling of renaissance this season — looking forward to seeing what we have to come in Paris. We love the elevated mood so far, this will talk directly to the Matchesfashion man.
Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: This is our first season back in Milan for the men’s shows, and we could not be more thrilled to be here. Broadly, what I have found interesting is the way each brand has responded to the pandemic, each focusing on their individual approach to meet customer needs. For example, one of the key parts of the conversation is the power of choice; men have more opportunity for individual expression and personal styling than ever before. This was the focus at Prada, where they offered up a little something for everyone — slick tailoring, beautifully washed denim, a wider range of outerwear, and a very cool new sneaker. While perhaps stylistically best known for celebratory apparel that’s ready for the party (and ready everyone is, now) Versace’s bold and brash Saturday evening show was a riotous blast of energy that quirkily brought homewares to the runway. Given the success of the category over the past couple of years, and the brand’s unique presence in the market, it was savvy reminder of their breadth of offer. And finally, with the trip up to the Oasi Zegna, the brand reminded attendees that they have long been focused on environmental causes — their founder began acquiring and preserving the land around his mills more than 100 years ago. Of course, the collection itself also addressed many of the new ideas that intersect tailoring and workwear that are coming to the forefront as people return to the office.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show on top of their fabric mills offered incredible views alongside a stunning collection; it was an experience that I am sure many will not soon forget.
Trendspotting: The prevalence of tailoring on the runway speaks to the customer’s need for a great suit right now; whether he’s going back to the office, attending a wedding, or simply just wants to dress up for a night on the town, he’s on the hunt. Denim was another consistent theme of the week with great variations at Fendi, Prada and Dolce [& Gabbana]. Shades of the sunset and the desert (rusty oranges, ochre, mustard) were also quite prevalent in resortwear, as was terry cloth. And finally in footwear, we saw the return of more formal styles, skate-inspired sneaker shapes, and the mule.

Must-have item: Prada’s outerwear offer was absolutely incredible this season, with many great options in both solids and checks. I also personally loved Massimo Alba’s double-breasted jackets — rendered in stunning and light linen blends.
General comment on the season: More than anything, it is truly so wonderful to be back in Milan and to see the city exploding with new ideas and energy. Both the legacy tailoring brands and the fashion houses stepped up to the plate with robust collections that we’re excited to offer the Bloomingdale’s customer this season.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada’s return to simplicity with the slim-cut suit and classic iterations of the Macintosh jacket proved to offer a variety of choices to the customer for this spring. With denim, leathers and hits of gingham, the collection was a standout. Versace’s exciting collection of iconic silk prints paired with fluid tailored trousers and jackets is what everyone will want to wear come spring — with a Versace Casa vase in arm, natch. Brunello Cucinelli’s strong showing of the new suit signaled the return of suiting up again — but this time, your way. Whether styled with a sneaker or a suede espadrille, tailoring has been updated for today’s modern man.

Best presentation concept: Traveling to Oasi Zegna outside of Milan to celebrate the direction of the collection with Alessandro Sartori was an immersive experience into the world of Zegna. The backdrop of the collection truly exemplified the power of the brand.
Trendspotting: The suit is back. A key trend of the week was tailored fluidity in washed silks and summer-weight wool fabrics. From Etro, Giorgio Armani and Brioni, the silhouette for spring is loose and relaxed with an effortless nonchalant ease. Structured denim from Prada and Fendi proves to be a staple for summer. The sustainable iterations from Prada were standouts. The reedition releases of iconic silhouettes and styles from the late ‘90s and early 2000s. As shown by Dolce & Gabbana, the success of archive collections are reinterpreted for today.
Must-have item: The fringed raffia tote from Fendi. A gingham coat from Prada. A linen suit from Brunello Cucinelli. A suede espadrille loafer from Tod’s.
Buying process: Our teams are working through a hybrid buying schedule, but we have prioritized the key European market dates for in-person appointments.
General comment on the season: We are leaving Milan invigorated and energized for what’s to come for the men’s customer this upcoming spring. Throughout the week, designers showcased a strong product offering that will empower a life of self-expression for everyone, which we believe will translate through our own buys.
Raphael Deray, buyer men ready-to-wear luxury and designers for retail and e-commerce at Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada and JW Anderson were my favorites. The first one had a strong nostalgic vibe with very short-shorts, slim tailoring, leather and denim full outfits. It all looked very simple but the details and colors were amazing! JW Anderson was more of an art performance rather than a clothes presentation, and it was great. Also loved the Our Legacy look book.

Best presentation concept: JW Anderson, no doubts. We got to see some looks before the show even started with models as statues at the entrance in a theatrical way. The show was also amazing with art pieces rather than clothes to, in my opinion, address modern subjects. Jonathan looked at the influence of youth culture with the BMX and skateboarding, overconsumption with the bar codes, COVID-19 over the last years with the QR code knit and more.
Trendspotting: Definitely a big trend on pieces that expose the body. Almost every collection had several see-through pieces or cutouts making the hips/chest visible. Versace, 1017 Alyx 9SM, JW Anderson, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana…all of them. Leather was also trendy with loads of full looks, trousers, jackets. Finally, pop colors with some touches of neon yellow, sky blue, deep pink.
Must-have item: Feet jewelry (thanks Etro) for this summer and Santiags (thanks Prada)!
Budgets: Up! Not only because we are optimistic after COVID-19, but because cost and prices went up as well.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Fendi’s denim hues laid the base for an impactful color story throughout and only enhanced the sporty and relaxed feel. This aesthetic extended into touches of tailoring, textured fabrics and accessories and head-to-toe coordinated looks ensured this collection was a roaring success. A monumental Etro show to celebrate the final collection of Kean Etro as creative director, after a triumphant 30 years at the helm. A celebration of print, embroidery and fabrication that epitomizes Etro, and makes you long to be on a sun-soaked holiday in the Mediterranean — the coastal holiday wardrobe perfected! Zegna, a real standout for me in in the schedule; a collection full of modern sophistication and clean style, from pared-back tailoring in rich fabrics to more casual, athletic aesthetics.
Best presentation concept: The location and the collection played equal parts in ensuring Zegna had the standout presentation of the week. The rooftop of their historic headquarters and picturesque mountain-scape surroundings set the scene for a truly elevated and elegant collection.
Trendspotting: Washed and faded denim was seen in almost every collection, Fendi and Prada were the masters of the trend and I expect to be the go-to denim for next season. Leather: from Prada’s micro shorts to JW Anderson’s basketball shorts and trenchcoats at Fendi — leather has solidified itself as a true staple and is here to stay. From bold colors to muted tones, tailoring reigned supreme this week. The trend was largely seen in loose and fluid silhouettes, from masters such as Zegna and Brioni. Of course, there was a presence of sharp and fitted styles, Prada’s show was proof — if it were ever needed — that the suit is here to stay, where pared-back, clean black tailoring completely dominated the collection. The warm Milanese weather paired with a wash of linens, light knits and sheer fabrics gave the week a strong holiday vibe; a return to the coastal capsule wardrobe. Etro and Emporio Armani displayed this perfectly and it will be a huge success come summer next year.
Must-have item: Double, triple and even quadruple denim.
General comment on the season: Milan menswear returns to strength: from the headline shows to the static presentations, the brands showcased strong collections that were founded in the brands’ unique DNAs. From luxury fashion to sartorial tour de force.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Fendi, Prada, JW Anderson, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, MSGM, Emporio Armani, Dsquared2 and Marcelo Burlon. Among the younger brands: Magliano and JordanLuca.
Best presentation concept: Zegna treated us to a visit to Oasi Zegna, which was a spectacular way to end the week. The show took place on the company’s original wool mill rooftop. A master of the color palette, Sartori made us appreciate Zegna’s precious fabrics in the flourishing natural background of Oasi Zegna.
Trendspotting: The collections showed many references to a sophisticated man, with a marked returned to tailoring, which we saw mainly in relaxed cuts up to Prada’s more formal slim suits. The heat in Milan was the main topic of small talk, and was the perfect background for the many beach/vacation ensembles that we saw on the catwalk, from shirt and boxer sets to flowy caftans, to open-work knits, proposed in the ever-present muted neutrals. The more directional brands went for an acid-techno infused inspiration, where music and events in town played a big part in the narration. Strong colors like acid yellow, bubblegum pink, Klein blue, purple, psychedelic prints were all over the collections and spoke to a younger clientele in search of fun, positive energy and aggregation. Lots of denim, also in sets, and tough black versus strong white for genderless looks.
Must-have item: Prada’s car coat in one of the many gingham iterations will be next fashion week’s uniform for the street-style crowd. For shoes, Fendi offered plenty from which to choose, from the suede summer moccasins to the logo-embossed rubber slides. For the beach-inspired looks the must-have piece is the sarong, as seen at Dsquared2, or a shirt and boxer poplin set, as seen at MSGM. The hat will be a styling essential, from wide-brim straw explorer hats to fun crochet caps. With reference to tailoring, the best seen were Prada’s crispy suits and Fendi’s tailoring separates, continuing the cropped proportion (I loved the cropped sleeves blazer and Bermuda ensemble). The prize for the most fun styling prop goes to Versace’s homeware porcelain pieces perfectly complementing the rich colorful looks.

Versace, men’s spring 2023
Aïtor Rosas Suñe / WWD

Budgets: We have been recording a very positive summer season in all of our stores thanks to a tourism boost. We expect a strong growth in the 2023 spring season and are investing accordingly.
Buying process: Since the beginning of the sales campaign we are back to buying in the showroom, even though we have kept a mix of digital and physical appointments that is quite efficient in terms of time management and traveling.

General comment on the season: Starting with Milan Design Week, followed by Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week, we have seen a very positive energy in the city and in brands and buyers around town. The same energy could be seen in cheerful collections that speak to a younger client and make us forget for a moment about war or the never-ending pandemic.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director, Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg
Favorite collections: Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Kiton.
Best presentation concept: Zegna. It was really interesting to bring all the guests to the roots of the brand and at the same time see the evolution that Alessandro Sartori brought to the brand. I also liked a lot Dolce & Gabbana’s fashion show, which brought back the memories of all their previous collections and it was a great trip through the iconic styles of the brand.
Trendspotting: Suit, suit, suit. Let’s go back to the well-dressed man. It can be really advanced in style as Prada or more iconic as Kiton, but for sure the suit is back. Brunello Cucinelli has been pushing for already two seasons the desire of men to get back to the suit and even this presentation was all focused on that.
Must-have item: Santoni’s colorful shoes. I can’t complete the look without having a masterpiece of Italian craftsmanship — a pair of Santoni shoes.
General comment on the season: I think [it was a] breath of fresh air out of any COVID-19 memory. The excitement around the fashion week is back and I am really happy about that.

1017 Alyx 9SM RTW Spring 2023

1017 Alyx 9SM RTW Spring 2023

The industry has come to terms with storytelling ruling the creative process, so much so that it often forgets the feats and wonders of product design.  
Quite the opposite, Matthew Williams’ fashion proposition has often been straight-forward and mostly about desirable fashion rather than narratives. During a preview, he admitted he rarely focuses on seasonal themes, and spring was no exception.
For his second show on the Milan schedule, he booked the derelict Franco Scarioni outdoor swimming pool complex on the outskirts of Milan and had his guests wait one hour before the camera drones took off.

The summer desire to keep cool was overarching, as bare torsos, legs and arms were out in force.
Conjuring a quite futuristic street uniform, Williams distilled a few seasonal garments: cargo pants with origami pockets; industrial-tech sleeveless tops, be they parkas, hooded jackets, or suits for men; ruched bodycon minidresses reminiscent or early Aughts party style, which didn’t really scream luxury; floor-sweeping sartorial pants that elongated the silhouette and liquid-looking dresses cut on the bias for women. Denim trucker jackets and workwear jeans easily applied to both, as did the neat biker jackets and coats spelling the brand’s name on the chest.

While less punchy and energizing than previous efforts, this spring show demonstrated Williams’ knack for edgy and commercially-savvy accessories. He traded the once ubiquitous buckles for statement goggle sunglasses framed in thick leather and occasionally hidden under models’ bangs, new bag styles, and his latest Nike x Matthew M. Williams 005 style – on-trend rubberized slides with breathable soles. 
They were terrific products. 

The 35 Best Modest Looks from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

The 35 Best Modest Looks from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

Milan Fashion Week came back strong after two years in the deep due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Making bold choices, participating designers played with the fall and winter season colors of black, brown, white, beige, blue, and silver/grey, creating an almost dark/light academia aesthetic. Standing out were Roberto Cavalli’s striking leopard patterns with draping suit jackets and majestic cape dresses, while Dolce & Gabbana made statements with headscarves paired with demure silhouettes in monochrome palettes. Versace embraced a similar mood, but with form-fitting shapes, and Jil Sander took on a more formal approach and offered a modest suit in yellow and a grey dress paired with white leather gloves.
Below, check out the 35 best modest looks spotted on the runways of Milan Fashion Week.
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Alberta Ferretti. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Roberto Cavalli. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Prada. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Alberta Ferretti. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Loro Piana. Photo: Courtesy of Loro Piana
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillipo Fior
Moschino. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Emporio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Max Mara. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Dolce & Gabbana. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Fendi. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Giorgio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Bottega Veneta. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Fendi. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Etro. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Jil Sander. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Prada. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Jil Sander. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Versace. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway
Bottega. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Emporio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni
Giorgio Armani. Photo: Courtesy of Fillippo Fior
Read Next: The 27 Best Modest Looks from London Fashion Week Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

5 Things To Know About Gucci’s Adidas-Splicing Milan Fashion Week 2022 Show

5 Things To Know About Gucci’s Adidas-Splicing Milan Fashion Week 2022 Show

Gender-defying looks, a suitably retro soundtrack, and an Adidas collab: fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen brings you five things to know about autumn/winter 2022’s “Exquisite” Gucci show.

The show was intentionally heavy on menswear

After announcing his break with seasonality during the pandemic, Alessandro Michele brought the Gucci show back to the Milan schedule this season. But that didn’t mean a return to following the rules. In the middle of a fashion week devoted to womenswear, guests in the brand’s headquarters in Via Mecenate were shown a collection nearly fully composed of men’s looks. Those labels, of course, are entirely redundant when it comes to Gucci. “I thought it would be interesting, especially now that we’re so open to dialogues. I like to do things in a different way. It’s funny and spontaneous,” Michele said after the show. “Seven years ago, I came here with a men’s collection, and the reaction was that I had ‘invented’ gender fluidity,” he continued, referring to the first collection he headed up for Gucci. “I wanted to give a specific image of masculinity. My vision is broad. Men have opened the dialogue with the feminine world, but women also like men’s suits, and vice versa.” A very big part of Michele’s legacy at Gucci is gender-oriented, but as he demonstrated this season, his cause isn’t necessarily to make things ‘unisex’, but simply to wipe out any conventions surrounding the clothes women, and particularly men, can and can’t wear.
It was an ode to Michele’s defiance of gender codes

Michele covered his runway room in distorting mirrors as an illustration of how the clothes we put on our bodies can transform the way we see ourselves, physically and psychologically. “I use codes that are reflected in my own mirror. They help me to see how clothes can be corrupted. I shrink them, I expand them, I stretch them, and they become conveyers of messages about what we want to be in the world,” he explained. He opened the show doing just that, dressing a female model in heels and a traditionally masculine suit, allowing its magnified volume to drape around the body and effectively alter her physical appearance. Nearly every look that followed echoed that practice, shape-shiftingly broadening shoulders, nipping in waists, and elongating or cropping trousers. Throughout, the tailored suit remained an erogenous zone for transformation. “When I was a child I was really impressed by men’s suits. The first model was wearing a masculine suit… She could have been a working woman in the ’80s when I was growing up.” Perhaps more than ever, Michele’s collection was founded in his own formative years.
It featured a collaboration with Adidas

The collection featured a collaboration with Adidas, whose influence on especially European sportswear in the 1970s and ’80s would have been an unavoidable element in Michele’s formative tapestry. “Adidas introduced elegance in sportswear. I was thinking about men’s suits and tracksuits and sportswear, and tried to interpret it my way. The result might seem easy but the idea is really powerful,” he said. That was no exaggeration. While mixing sartorial and sporty codes – such as the tailored tracksuit hybrids and sporty evening gowns on Michele’s runway – isn’t revolutionary in contemporary fashion, the European roots of Adidas made these looks different to the American elements of sportswear we usually see in fashion. Side-by-side with his oversized chequerboard and stripy lurex suits, opulent jacquard coats, and all those logos and checks, there was undeniably a classic gangster vibe to the way Michele worked his Adidas components. But there was something so retro-Euro-’80s about these concoctions, which nailed the naivety with which our continent adapted these American influences in the ’80s, using our own brands.
It continued Michele’s fling with retro remakes

“What you have seen is just an experiment, a never-ending process,” Michele said of his Adidas proposals. “The idea was to break some codes through the sportswear. l looked at a picture of Madonna from ’83 where she was wearing an Adidas dress that had never been produced by them, but by a curator. This is now very normal – fashion has left the atelier – but looking at this picture, I was thinking about the kaleidoscope of things you see in the street.” The idea of the ready-made has long been present in the work of Michele, who already partnered with Dapper Dan, the Harlem designer who originally created a lot of the ‘curated’ logo pieces that appeared in the ’80s in the vein of Madonna’s Adidas dress. Like Virgil Abloh’s collaboration on Nike’s Air Force 1 trainers for Louis Vuitton last year, putting these brands on a luxury runway is a way for high fashion to recognise the deep-rooted influence of the communities and subcultures who pioneered the so-called “streetwear” everybody wears today. It’s important these things don’t just end up in a marketing machine, just like the idea of ‘gender-fluidity’. “This is what I am. It’s not a marketing operation,” Michele concurred, on the topic of the latter.
Accessories mixed the Adidas and Gucci logos

In the wealth of impressions that hit Michele’s runway – lit with clubby strobe lights and scored with a nostalgic but epic soundtrack including “Smalltown Boy” by Bronski Beat and “Fade to Grey” by Visage – some pretty epic accessories materialised, too. Large shopping bags with bamboo handles were covered in spikes, studs or Adidas stripes that echoed Gucci’s own. Laced riding boots with big gold buttons down the side proposed a genderless trope. And hats emblazoned with the Adidas iconography – from baseball caps to swimming caps and berets – topped off almost every look, cementing the ‘80s sensibility that permeated the show.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Fall 2022

Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Fall 2022

Salvatore Ferragamo design director Guillaume Meilland is determined to take the brand in a more modern, casual-luxe, gender-fluid direction. At the fall 2022 presentation, there wasn’t a bow in sight.
To be expected, accessories were front and center, but they were trend-right, rugged, lug sole hiker and combat boots, as well as a new running shoe with rainbow soles referencing Ferragamo’s iconic 1938 shoes.
The brand debuted a utilitarian soft, foldover bucket bag with studded base, and a half-moon bag with a chunky leather chain that was a motif throughout, and a little too reminiscent of Jonathan Anderson.

The 36 coed looks also played off the brand’s leather goods heritage in fun ways, with 1960s-inspired leather button-front minis and a gorgeous green leather A-line coat borrowing hardware from Ferragamo bags.
Meilland mixed in plenty of texture with a feathery looking black sleeveless top of shaved, lacerated shearling, worn over blue duchesse silk trousers, for example, as well as on cable knit knit sweaters and long john pants.
But there was a practical lightness to a flirty red, weightless knit ruffled keyhole tank, a draped knit tunic that looked great over pants, and a poncho made from two wool cashmere scarves.

Meilland referenced workwear in Dickies-like chinos made from cotton silk, and a pair of wool overalls.
“The idea is if you know your heritage, you can take it further,” he said. “But everything is informed by function and I think that’s right for a brand like Ferragamo.”
The brand has had many iterations and the current one is still being written under new chief executive editor Marco Gobbetti. But this season, Meilland did a good job of bringing Ferragamo into the fashion conversation without being overly referential of the brand’s past.

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