Mens Fashion

Paul Stuart
Although Paul Stuart was founded in 1938, it wasn’t until fairly recently that it started wholesaling some of its collections. The retailer started with footwear a few years ago and then expanded into formalwear and formal accessories 1.5 years ago, with its tuxedos now being carried at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom launching this fall.

Now the company is setting its sights on the specialty store market and it will be bringing both footwear and formalwear for the first time to the Chicago Collective.

“We really want to attract the independents,” said Paulette Garafalo, Paul Stuart’s executive chairman. “The business with the majors needs to be balanced. Specialty stores know their customers and have a different point of view. And because we’re a retailer, we’re one of the only brands that is very proprietary.”

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Paul Stuart operates a flagship on Madison Avenue in New York as well as units in Chicago, on Oak Street, and Washington, D.C.

A formalwear look from Paul Stuart.

Courtesy of Paul Stuart

The collection that will be highlighted at the show was designed by Ralph Auriemma, the store’s longtime creative director. The offering will include classic single- or double-breasted tuxedo jackets with shawl collars or peak lapels in gray flannel with frog closures. Lapels on some models feature a wide, ribbed grosgrain, a detail that is also found on several models of pants as well as top coats.

One jacket sports an eye-popping Art Deco pattern, high and wide peak lapels that Auriemma paired with more subtle formal pants. There is also a velvet moire printed jacket in purple and a variety of velvet dinner jackets, some with satin lapels, in a range of colors.

The fit of the garments is modern and contemporary in the company’s younger-skewed Phineas Cole line or fuller in the more traditional Paul Stuart line.

Most of the tuxedos retail for $2,495 to $2,985 although the company also offers an opening price point option with a satin lapel and waistband that will sell for $1,695.

For the summer months, there are 100 percent unlined linen dinner jackets in blue, white or other hues that can be worn with white tuxedo shirts and light-colored pants.

The formalwear accessories include matching bow ties and cummerbunds in a variety of patterns including Scottish tartans, vertical regimental stripes and prints inspired by old wallpaper patterns with raised velvet blocking. There are also solid silk grenadines for the less adventurous.

Paul Stuart has been wholesaling its footwear for several years.

Courtesy of Paul Stuart

In footwear, 18 core styles and 25 for the pre-spring collection will be offered at the show, ranging from dress shoes to espadrilles and sandals.

Billy Reid

Billy Reid has experienced his share of ups and downs over the past 25 years. The Alabama-based designer launched his first brand in 1998 under the William Reid name, but despite initial success, it was forced to close when sales dropped after the 9/11 terrorist attacks. After returning to his home state to regroup, he relaunched in 2004 under the Billy Reid name and now, 20 years later, he’s on solid footing.

Reid, who has won three Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards and has become known for his innovative textiles and Southern-skewed perspective, sold a minority stake in the business to some well-heeled local investors a few years ago. He now operates 12 stores around the U.S. and has a solid wholesale business with Nordstrom and top specialty stores.

At the Chicago show, Reid will bring his spring 2024 line, which he titled “Sanctuary.” As he describes it: “When the ground thaws and the weight of winter lifts, there’s an innate pull within each of us to return to nature. We seek open space, a place to breathe, a sanctuary.”

The collection was inspired by a trip to Mexico City, where Reid was surrounded by open-air architecture, botanical gardens and sun-drenched terraces. That translates into a collection of softly tailored pieces that can work as well at an outdoor wedding or garden party as on a boat cruise.

Billy Reid’s spring 2024 collection.

Courtesy of Billy Reid

Key pieces include Archie jackets in garment-dyed linen, basket weave double-breasted or slub versions; a zip-front trucker; suede workshirts or patch pocket jackets; canvas peacoats; a denim overshirt; a safari jacket, and a cobalt blue windbreaker. These are complemented by jacquard printed shirts, linen pants, shorts embroidered with a pelican patter and lightweight sweaters. Fabrics include a linen and cotton blend in knits and wool/linen/silk for blazers.

“The jackets are the highlight of the collection,” Reid said. “Men are buying jackets again. After a period when we were not making any, we’re doubling our production now. We’re really leaning into soft tailoring and the versatility of the pieces to transition from work to play. We also looked at how people are wearing the line and we found this helped us bring in the right product at the right time.”

He also noted that his denim shirt continues to the brand’s top-selling piece and it’s available on replenishment for wholesale clients.

A denim shirt has been a bestseller for Billy Reid for years.

Courtesy of Billy Reid

Reid said in recent years, he has embraced specialty stores as a key part of his overall business and regional shows such as Chicago have proven to be valuable to the company and he is working to ensure deliveries to wholesale clients are on time and in sync with the Billy Reid direct-to-consumer offering.

“We offer a program specific to our wholesale customers,” he said, adding that retailers have responded to his textiles as well as the “democratic fit” of his menswear. “It’s timeless and ageless.”

L.B.M. 1911

L.B.M. 1911 is one of the brands in the portfolio of the Mantua, Italy-based men’s suitmaker Lubiam, which launched the label more than 15 years ago. 

For its latest collection, L.B.M. 1911 drew inspiration from the Impressionism art movement to inject a dash of unpredictability in the sartorial staples it is best known for, via a palette including wisteria color and sage green tones, among others. 

Highlights of the collection include the brand’s signature garment-dyed wool suits in lilac hues as well as houndstooth blazers in shades of ivory and beige and fitted double-breasted jackets with wide lapels. These are joined by more casual pieces, such as jersey suits in pinstripe patterns paired with drawstring pants and outerwear that mixes jersey and denim.

As a counterpoint to the soft-toned palette, L.B.M. 1911 introduced a new capsule collection dubbed “Blackout,” hinged on easy-to-approach designs in cotton and jersey rendered in white or black. Items in the line include minimal trenchcoats; blazers crafted from a blend of cotton and linen; zippered bomber jackets, as well as logoed hoodies and T-shirts.

A look from the L.B.M. 1911 spring 2024 collection.

Courtesy of L.B.M. 1911

Although best known for its tailored menswear and outerwear, L.B.M. 1911 increasingly expanded the assortment to offer total looks through the years, with a catalogue now ranging from knitwear to shirts and accessories such as bags, shoes and scarves.

In general, retail prices for the brand start from 120 euros for knits and swing between 140 euros and 210 euros for pants; between 300 euros and 600 euros for outerwear, and between 600 euros and 750 euros for suits. Stockists include the likes of Brian & Barry in Italy and Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom in the U.S. 

The brand is not new to capsule collections, having partnered with other designers and companies in the past on focused ranges. In 2019 it collaborated with Efisio Marras, creative director of the I’m Isola Marras brand and Antonio Marras’ eldest son, on a line of sartorial looks revisited with a punk vibe that included tartan suits styled with chain accessories and tailored outfits embellished with floral prints. That year, L.B.M. 1911 also made its first steps into womenswear with a capsule collection of blazers. 

The label’s tailoring know-how is rooted in the tradition of its parent company, which was founded in 1911 by Luigi Bianchi. Today Lubiam offers collections also under the names Luigi Bianchi Sartoria, Luigi Bianchi Cerimonia and Luigi Bianchi Flirt, in addition to L.B.M. 1911.

Il Bisonte

Florence-based brand Il Bisonte has a tradition in handcrafted leather goods, kickstarted in 1970 when Wanny Di Filippo established the company in a small factory with the commitment to promote high-quality craftsmanship and preserve the tradition of Tuscan leather manufacturing.

The brand’s signature vegetable-tanned leather pieces are manufactured through a supply chain located within 18 miles of Florence, ensuring commitment to local small- and medium-sized enterprises and workshops.

In Chicago, Il Bisonte will display a mix of its spring 2024 collection and heritage pieces, including the Trappola backpack and the Cosimo cross-body style. Among the new designs, the Galileo range will include a travel bag, a briefcase, a cell phone holder with shoulder strap as well as three small leather accessories, all defined by soft lines that further enhance the appeal of the vintage-looking leather.

A travel bag by Il Bisonte.

Courtesy of Il Bisonte

Retailing at between 475 euros for backpacks and 1,250 euros for travel bags, Il Bisonte collections are distributed in more than 30 countries across key wholesalers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Rinascente and LuisaViaRoma, among others. The brand is carried in 54 countries and has 56 monobrand stores worldwide, 51 of which are located in Japan.

The strong exposure in Japan has been boosted by the current owner of the company, Look Holdings Inc., which had been Il Bisonte’s distributor and licensee in the country since the ’90s and is listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange. The firm acquired Il Bisonte in 2019 from former owner, private equity Palamon Capital Partners, and has accelerated the overall international expansion plans of the brand since.

As reported earlier this year, Il Bisonte is increasingly targeting the U.S. to scale its business. The brand operates a flagship in New York but chief executive officer Luigi Ceccon said the company is looking to open an additional unit Stateside by the end of 2023 or the first quarter of 2024 and is scouting locations on the West Coast. 

The brand unveiled its first store in New York, a two-level 1,940-square-foot flagship on Bleecker Street, in 2019. The unit, as some select stores worldwide, offers customers the opportunity to revitalize previously owned products, giving them a second life thanks to a remise-en-forme and leather care service by an expert craftsman. The company also leverages the flexibility of its artisan workshops to offer customized or personalized capsule collections and products.

Alex Crane

Brooklyn, New York-based fashion designer Alex Crane always wanted to create a fashion line, and ultimately decided to take the leap in 2017 with the intent of making sustainable leisurewear. 

After design stints at Jack Spade and Levi Strauss & Co., Crane launched his namesake label out of his apartment, slowly building up brand awareness by presenting collections at trade shows.

“The brand started in my apartment in Brooklyn in 2017. I quit my day job, broke up with my girlfriend — we’re married now so it all worked out — and my only instinct was to design a collection and sell it at a trade show,” Crane stated.

While Crane had a clear vision for his fashion label, he explained that he experienced multiple challenges across production, logistics and retail initiatives in the first two years that made it difficult for the brand to find its footing and develop a consistent customer base. 

With encouragement from his father, Crane decided to keep moving forward with the brand and ultimately started gaining momentum in 2019 with the help of digital marketing that got his brand’s message to more consumers. 

A look from Alex Crane’s spring 2024 collection.

Today the Alex Crane label offers men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and shoes designed with sustainable practices. The brand utilizes natural materials like organic cotton and corozo buttons and has the goal of becoming 100 percent biodegradable. He explained the next line of action is to transition to using 100 percent natural dyes, which he believes he can achieve in the next few years. 

“We’ll know we’ve arrived when we can toss our clothes in the compost and they turn to beautiful soil in 16 months,” Crane said about reaching his sustainability goal. 

The label is mostly carried at specialty stores and this summer embarked on its first major retail partnership with Bloomingdale’s. 

Key menswear pieces that he’ll show in Chicago are the Bo Pants — a longer version of his bestselling Bo Shorts — a range of cotton-linen knitwear and made-to-order suits. 

Crane’s overall goal for the brand is to be the global standard for sustainably made apparel basics, highlighting Gap as a business model he’d like to replicate. However, the difference will be his label offers biodegradable styles and will buy back clothing from customers to recycle the fibers. 

White Sand

White Sand is a contemporary brand born in the heart of the Romagna region in Italy, specializing in the production of modern trousers.

The brand is rooted in neoclassicism and innovation, characterized by an informal elegance and a Japanese-inspired fit, with a genderless offering of pants.

Established in 1979, White Sand combines elements of Japanese fashion and street style with elements of traditional Italian tailoring, and is best known for fusing street-style trends along with military details such as patchwork appliquès, new takes on camouflage and hand-painted prints.

The trousers are characterized by two main design elements, usually a drawstring waistband with adjustable belt, and each pair is decorated with a small black stone, carefully placed near the front pocket.

White Sand

Courtesy from White Sand

The brand also understands the majority of men still need a lot more convincing to move in a fuller leg direction, so it offers more traditional trouser options in a slim-fit leg, cargo pants, slim chino joggers, above the knee shorts and a pleated trouser.

For spring, highlights include novelty styles such as a tuxedo trouser with fraying details on the side, below-the-knee wide shorts with floral embroidering, and a pleated trouser with an ultra-wide leg opening all the way down to the hem — all in mainly light cottons, linens, technical fabrics and organzas.

Retail prices range from $195 to $295, with most styles falling in the $250 range, and the brand is carried in retailers including Antonia in Milan, Antonioli, Printemps, Isetan, Bon Marche, Matchesfashion, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ron Herman and Fred Segal.

White Sand is produced and distributed by Group Design Moda Srl, a family-run company from the Romagna region that specializes in trouser production and is known for its innovative shapes, materials, special processes and dyes.

MILAN — Slowear is stepping into its next chapter with its new chief executive officer, Piero Braga, who was named to the post in May and is busy mapping out a retooling strategy for the company.
“The company is animated by a lot of passion fueled by a strong community that includes stakeholders, suppliers, partners and end consumers. They are all very close to the project,” Braga said Sunday at the company’s presentation during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

“I won’t call it a brand because it’s rather a small group of brands sharing the same platform and that’s Slowear,” he added.

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Acknowledging that the company has gone through difficult times in light of the pandemic first and the untimely death of its president and CEO Roberto Compagno in 2021, Braga said it is now on track to embrace new avenues of growth.

At Sunday’s presentation the company’s star brand, pantmaker Incotex, debuted its first suits — crafted from the Royal Batavia and Chinolino trademark fabrics in summery sorbet tones — opening a new direction that expands beyond bottoms.

Together with knitwear specialist Zanone, the brand is a key driver in Slowear’s portfolio, which includes shirtmaker Glanshirt and the Montedoro outerwear label, in addition to the Officina Slowear accessories and footwear division.

Slowear, men’s spring 2024

Courtesy of Slowear

Developing the identity of each brand is key for Braga, especially as they have very different distribution footprints. “We’re sure that venturing into other product categories will benefit Incotex and contribute to its development,” he said.

Furthering the community-building function of Slowear is also on the executive’s agenda. Under that name the company has opened 30 boutiques, in Milan, New York, Paris, London and Seoul, for example.

Braga ruled out a further retail push for the time being, but offered that a dot-com platform could serve all the brands in the portfolio. He also teased plans to build the e-commerce destination into a marketplace open to other labels and companies.

The online business accounts for 5 percent of Slowear’s sales, which stood at just below 45 million euros in 2022, and the executive has ambitions to double that rate.

“We really need to leverage our community, which already exists, it’s small but strong and we need to expand our customer base, catering to adjacent communities and tapping ambassadors,” Braga explained.

The executive said he is putting strategies in place to reenergize penetration in the U.S., where the brand has still not fully recovered after the pandemic slowdown.

Overall, the spring collection hinged on timeless wardrobe-builders, working a subdued palette of neutrals, navy blue and whites. It was filled with waterproof peacoats and field jackets, the latter inspired by Walter Albini-designed archival styles, textured knit polo shirts and crewnecks, as well as chino pants in a wide range of shapes befitting different customers.

Also spotlighting signature menswear gear, the company unveiled a collaboration with North Sails revisiting the latter’s signature Sailor jacket, under the Slowear moniker, which in Braga’s view can only be framed as a brand for special projects. It follows a previous tie-up with Sebago on boat shoes.

Slowear, men’s spring 2024

Courtesy of Slowear

A seasoned executive, the CEO joined the company founded in 1951 in Mira, near Venice, from Gucci, where he most recently served as executive vice president, strategic adviser and board member. Prior to Gucci, he built his experience in the retail and wholesale sectors at the Ermenegildo Zegna Group and Tod’s.

Rhude is teaming with Automobili Lamborghini for its latest collaboration.

The Los Angeles-based streetwear label founded by Rhuigi Villaseñor is joining forces with the Italian sports car manufacturer for an apparel collection that celebrates the Lamborghini Huracán Sterrato. The partnership was first unveiled during Miami Art Basel in December and showcased during Rhude’s fall 2023 runway show. 

The apparel collection leverages Rhude’s streetwear sensibilities and takes inspiration from the Lamborghini Huracán Sterrato and a utilitarian style. The collection includes pieces like military jackets, cargo pants, polo shirts, T-shirts, shorts, hats and duffel bags. 

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Styles from the Rhude x Automobili Lamborghini collection. 

Courtesy of Rhude

The partnership was a natural one for Villaseñor, as the designer has long been a fan of auto sports and drives the Urus, a Lamborghini Super SUV.

“Cars and fashion are two of my favorite life joys,” he said. “Being able to marry these fields in a modern and intriguing approach excited me. I’m so thrilled for the world to see what we cook up here. Can’t thank the Lamborghini team enough for believing in my vision and letting me bring this to life.”

Standout pieces from the collection include a military-style jacket featuring patches designed with Rhude and Lamborghini’s iconography and a canvas duffel bag that also blends the two brands’ logos.

Rhude’s Automobili Lamborghini collaboration is the latest to come from Villaseñor. The designer, who is also the creative director of Bally, recently reunited with Zara for a genderless fashion collection and with Puma for a collection that celebrated the 50th anniversary of hip-hop.

The Rhude x Automobili Lamborghini collection ranges in price from $295 to $2,995 and is available on Rhude’s website starting Friday. 

For the last five years HBO’s “Succession” has resonated with fans for its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships and finely curated wardrobe that has helped popularize a niche trend within minimalist fashion. And along the way it’s fueled demand for many of those understated products.
The hit TV show, which is airing new episodes of its final season on Sundays, has become one of the prime examples of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, one that Fashion Institute of Technology professor Cathleen Sheehan explained has been around long before “Succession” debuted. 

“It’s things that are understated and polished,” Sheehan said. “They’re not saying, ‘look at me,’ but it’s more like, ‘look a little closer in order to really see what’s going on.’ You have to study it. It’s like when you’re sitting in a waiting room or on an airplane and you find yourself studying someone and looking closer at their sweater or shoes. It’s the care and the materials, and if you’re in the fashion business, you might recognize some of the pieces.” 

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Sheehan explained “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends like ‘90s minimalism or the normcore of the 2010s. But “stealth wealth” is unique in its emphasis on quality and discretion. 

This has been seen on many of the characters in “Succession,” which focuses on the dysfunctional relationships among patriarch Logan Roy (played by Brian Cox), who helms the international media conglomerate Waystar Royco, and his children, who are fighting for leadership of the company. 

For the last three seasons, fans have come to expect the characters to be dressed in nondescript clothing, such as blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. For superfans of the show, the logo-less clothing has become an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles, which are typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren and others.

A still from “Succession” season four.

Courtesy of HBO

“We did our research of the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones and Jeff Bezos of the world,” said Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession.” “We don’t follow necessarily what they are wearing. We follow who the character is and where they would shop. Whereas Roman might be shopping more downtown, Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue. It fits into this overall theme of billionaires because they’re definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it’s really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear.” 

Or the items that wannabe billionaires want to buy. There have been numerous articles over the last five years of how “Succession” has helped fuel demand for certain luxury items — from Loro Piana’s baseball cap to its white-soled shoes. Both can cost in the hundreds of dollars but often have sold out at retail after a “Succession” character wears them.

Over the four seasons, Schwartz noted that Kendall Roy (played by Jeremy Strong) has had the biggest style evolution, which was meant to reflect the changes in his character. The character started off the show in corporate-style suits and has since evolved to more casual, yet pricey leather and suede jackets and streetwear sneakers. The character’s casual style still plays into “stealth wealth” as his clothing is typically from Loro Piana, Tom Ford or Gucci.

Schwartz stated that besides Kendall Roy, the show’s characters have had little evolution style-wise in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message.

“The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” he said. “In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.” 

Schwartz thinks the show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue.

The show’s season four premiere episode seemingly addressed the characters’ inclination to “stealth wealth” when Nicholas Braun’s character (who is referred to as cousin Greg) brings a date to Logan Roy’s birthday party who accessorizes her look with what character Tom Wambsgans described as a “ludicrously capacious bag.” The bag in question was the Burberry Title Vintage Check Tote Bag, which despite a high price tag of $2,890, doesn’t fit in with the logo-free aesthetic prominent in “stealth wealth.”

It’s another example of viewers’ eagerness to “find the label.” After the episode aired, Google searches for the Burberry bag skyrocketed.

Both Schwartz and Sheehan believe the show’s costumes and “stealth wealth” have appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality. Sheehan also noted “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.

“It’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford,” she said. “It’s a classic black turtleneck, but you have to study it and see why it looks good, what it is about it, so it’s aspirational. There’s something interesting about that that it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.” 

Shaqir and Shareef O’Neal are joining forces with BoohooMan for a joint fashion collection.
The two basketball players and sons of former NBA star and entrepreneur Shaquille O’Neal have teamed with the fashion brand to expand BoohooMan’s big and tall collection with a collaboration that consists of 50 apparel pieces that reflect the brothers’ style. 

“BoohooMan is a really cool brand,” Shareef O’Neal said. “We got introduced to it a few years ago by [rapper and producer] Quavo. They did a little collab and he had so many clothes and he gave us some and we were rocking it back in like 2019.” 

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The BoohooMan x O’Neal Brothers collection infuses the brothers’ sporty and laid-back style with an apocalyptic edge. The collection includes T-shirts, hoodies, sweaters, trousers and more in styles incorporating camouflage print, bleach splatter and faux fur. The collection’s sizing extends to 5XL and the inseam goes up to 36 inches. 

This is the second time that Shaqir O’Neal has teamed with BoohooMan, but it is Shareef O’Neal’s first time. 

Shareef O’Neal in styles from the BoohooMan x O’Neal Brothers fashion collection.

ADAM RINDY

“It’s chill, laid-back, but also swaggy,” Shareef O’Neal said about the brand’s aesthetic. “We like to do that. We don’t really like to wear too much crazy stuff. We like our pants to have the graphics on them and the hoodies and all of that, but the way [BoohooMan] did it is amazing. It fits both of our styles perfectly — more Shaqir’s style, because I’m used to wearing basketball shorts and Crocs, but Shaqir likes to dress up a lot.” 

Both brothers are following in their father’s footsteps, with Shaqir O’Neal playing college basketball for Texas Southern and Shareef O’Neal playing for the Los Angeles Lakers in the NBA summer league. 

While they’ve taken inspiration from their father with their sports careers, the brothers explained they don’t necessarily look to the NBA legend for fashion advice.

“I feel like his fashion sense versus ours — ours is way better,” Shareef O’Neal said. “It’s a new generation, so I like that way he used to dress when he was younger, but I feel like our style is more unique.” 

Shaqir O’Neal added: “Yeah, it’s two different times. They used to wear baggy stuff. He helps out when we wear suits, but we do our own thing.” 

From the collection, Shaqir O’Neal explained his favorite piece is a pair of jeans that features graphic designs, while Shareef O’Neal’s favorite style is a pair of camouflage print trousers. 

The BoohooMan x O’Neal Brothers collection will be available on Monday on BoohooMan’s website. Prices range from $7 to $75.

Shaqir O’Neal in styles from the BoohooMan x O’Neal Brothers fashion collection.

ADAM RINDY

LONDON — The London-based fashion designer Daniel Gayle is stepping out of fashion’s backstage, and into the spotlight, putting a focus on sustainability.His label, Denzilpatrick, is based in Peckham, south London, and turns out two collections per year. He works exclusively with deadstock fabrics, vintage garments and recycled materials such as leather, polyester and lace. He uses a company in Dartford, also in south London, that takes industrial waste leather and turns it into a pulp that can be purchased in sheets, meaning that it’s 96 percent recycled.
He admits that producing low volumes has meant that his price range sits higher than the brands on the high street, but that hasn’t affected orders, as the cashmere has sold out.

“For spring we pushed the idea to have a bit more fun with it by making cashmere briefs and they sold out, a store in Ibiza took an order,” said Gayle, who started his career on the cutting-room floors of Jonathan Saunders, Victoria Beckham, Phillip Lim, Kenzo under Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, and Felipe Oliveira Baptista.

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Accessories is a smaller section of the brand that Gayle hopes to keep consistent while ready-to-wear grows. For jewelry, he has found a small community in Peru and Ecuador that carve tagua nuts and dip-dye them.

Denzilpatrick uses deadstock fabrics, vintage garments and recycled materials such as leather, polyester and lace.

VIVEK VADOLIYA / Courtesy of Denzilpatrick

The business has been growing so quickly that, starting with the fall 2022 collection, Gayle will be stretching beyond his direct-to-consumer model and taking on his first stockist, which he declined to name as the deal isn’t done yet.
Previously, he sold directly via the Denzilpatrick site.
In an interview, he said he had always wanted to launch his own brand, “but I always had imposter syndrome. I just didn’t think these things were really there for my taking, having grown up in a regular working-class family,” said Gayle, who trained as a ballet dancer at the Urdang Academy in Covent Garden.
He named his label after his immigrant grandfathers, Denzil and Patrick, who moved to London from Jamaica and Ireland, respectively, because he didn’t want the narrative to be all about him.
“I wanted it to be slightly disconnected from me so that everyone could see there was a story beyond me, and it was about the clashing of these two cultures,” he said.

London-based fashion designer Daniel Gayle.

Courtesy of Denzilpatrick

In the early stages of brainstorming what his brand could be, he started with questioning the fashion system’s way of working, and thought through how he wanted to focus on sustainability, reducing waste and sourcing smartly. At the same time, he wanted “a level of fantasy. I was once a queer 13-year-old, and I tap into all those feelings that are still present in me today.”
Gayle is adamant about producing just two collections per year, and does so with help from his art director husband, James Bosley, whom he met at a printing studio in Brixton while working with Jonathan Saunders.
He said his designs are about finding the missing puzzle pieces in a man’s wardrobe and his end goal is to create a Denzilpatrick uniform.
“It’s about the focus and the edit. There are things that we’re constantly developing that we started in the first season which we’ve only gotten right by the third season,” he said, adding that getting tailoring right has been a highlight for him.

Even though Gayle’s heart — and business — are in London, he has presented his last two collections in Paris, and will continue to show in France, which he believes is still the best platform to promote his brand.

MILAN —  “It was terrific to be back in Milan.”The comment from Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, echoed the general sentiment of retailers in the city, after the mainly digital menswear shows of recent seasons due to the pandemic. Pask said Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which closed on Tuesday, “really highlighted the best of Italian menswear. We saw the real strength of collections that epitomize the craftsmanship, creativity and supreme quality of the ‘made in Italy’ moniker. There was an assertion of brands here doing what they do best, representing tradition with great development and forward thinking. There was lightness and fluidity, a casual elegance to a lot of the collections we saw, and a real assertion of spring seasonality that was refreshing.”

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To be sure, while a return of tailoring was welcomed by retailers, designers opted for a more modern, nonchalant take on suits, often offered as separates. Soft fabrics and comfort were key, as was lightness and a sense of freedom and ease. “There’s an underlying message about having fun getting dressed again,” said Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom Inc. men’s fashion and editorial director.
Denim is back, washed and faded and in a new relaxed version — no sign of stretch or body-hugging styles anywhere. Refreshing color palettes and plenty of Bermuda shorts contributed to the summery feel of the looks. Trends included fuller proportions, light knitwear and innovative luxurious fabrics.
Retailers relished the experience of Zegna’s show at the company’s headquarters with a view of Oasi Zegna and Prada’s always innovative set, which added excitement to the events. The two brands — together with Fendi, Versace and Brioni — were also among the favorites of the season.
Here is a roundup of what buyers had to say:
Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a highly anticipated show that signified the importance of a timeless collection. There was a perfect balance of youthfulness and fundamental dressing. Suits were sharp and tailored, and overcoats were red-checkered and playful. Ms. Prada and Mr. Simons provided us with the best wardrobe choices for spring, from striped knitwear to denim shirting and shorts. The collection, walked against a backdrop famed by architect Rem Koolhaas, provided an environment that was equally as elegant and timeless. Versace showcased a collection filled with powerful and self-expressive pieces that signified Donatella’s return and commitment to menswear. The Zegna collection was a testament to the beauty, journey and interrelation of fashion and sustainability. Silvia Fendi’s collection for Fendi felt highly wearable with the incorporation of directional patterns and fabrications that honored familiar menswear silhouette codes.
Best presentation concept: Kiton, Canali and Santoni.
Trendspotting: We are seeing trends reflect the evolution of the post-pandemic wardrobe. The customer is looking to return to the art of dressing without losing the touch of comfort they have learned to appreciate, which was seen in key trends such as soft tailoring, deconstructed blazers, updated formalwear, silk shirting, denim wovens, open knitwear, relaxed denim pants, short suits, crochet, linen blends, technical and terry fabrications, rubber clogs, double bags and lanyard bags.

Santoni, spring 2023
Courtesy image/Santoni

Must-have item: A relaxed linen blend double-breasted sport coat.
General comment on the season: Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week was a celebration of charisma, casual elegance, modern tailoring and sustainably-minded collections. With the heat wave in Milan, our team was even more attentive and excited to experience the spring 2023 shows and presentations. An overall sense of happiness, ease and lightness was seen throughout the collections, such as JW Anderson and Giorgio Armani. Linen blends, relaxed silhouettes, and sporty yet sophisticated, technical pieces took center stage with refreshing color palettes like powder blue, mellow-yellow, neon green and pink incorporated throughout. The week overall represented a positive return of men’s fashion and felt like a stamp of approval for a new era of menswear.
Bosse Myhr, Selfridges director of menswear and womenswear

Favorite collections: JW Anderson’s arrival in Milan was certainly a highlight. The collection featured a variety of abstract looks that looked fantastic against the disused factory backdrop.
Best presentation concept: The Prada show setup is always hard to beat. A giant supersized paper house provided an excellent and beautiful backdrop for the collection. Also, the Zegna presentation outside Milan. It was on the roof of the Zegna factory. Just at sunset models started to walk out and showed a beautiful elegant collection with sneakers looking exceptional.
Trendspotting: It’s time to dust off those tailored jacket as there is definitely a more sophisticated and structured approach this season that we observed. Sharply tailored suits and mix-and-match jackets are probably the must have this season. The other trend we sensed was Venice Beach, Dsquared2 being a prime example.
Buying process: It was hot this season — temperatures reached 40 degrees Celsius [104 degrees Fahrenheit] at some shows. However, after two years of mainly video presentations and remote buying, it for sure is great to be back in person.
General comment on the season: Milan put up a great show overall.
Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom men’s fashion and editorial director
Favorite collections: The electric brights at Versace were an early standout, as well as the use of the house’s signature ceramics as high-end accessories. Prada’s reimagining of menswear pieces like trenchcoats and Harrington jackets in Western-esque ginghams that were complemented by their new cowboy boots [stodd out]. Our Legacy’s relaxed take on tailoring and innovative interpretations of denim looked especially great this season. Zegna’s imaginative tailoring and new footwear collaboration with Mr. Bailey — shown in the heart of Oasi Zegna — showed why it’s one of the most exciting Italian brands we’re working with at the moment.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s paper runway built inside the Fondazione Prada was a sight to behold.
Trendspotting: Cobalt blue is definitely a statement color making a prominent comeback. The influence of the 1970s on louche tailoring, wovens and trousers is only reinforced by the recent announcement that Harry Styles will be working on a collection with Gucci inspired by the era’s rockers.
Must-have item: A New York Knicks-inspired check suit made from a recycled cotton blend from Angelo Urrutia’s 4SDesigns.
General comment on the season: Spring 2023 reflects a relaxed approach to tailoring and new ways for men to look as elegant as ever.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Fendi’s fresh take on denim, with fringed jean shorts, tote bags, pullovers and fuller-legged five pockets was great. Breezy, fluid tailoring with center vents split right up the back worn with shorts gave the collection an easy sophistication. Brioni’s collection was the epitome of the quiet elegance we’ve seen this season, with an airiness to the impeccably soft tailoring and sportswear that was styled with such appealing personality. Kiton’s innovative, luxurious tailored fabrications, chic silhouettes and relaxed knit pairings were a highlight of their first fashion week evening celebration. I really enjoyed the bright saturated colors, soft fabrics and bold, wearable outfit combinations at Massimo Alba. Altea was also a favorite, with great easy sportswear pieces in soft cotton and linen in colorful dyes, prints and vivid solids.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show held atop the roof of the company’s lanificio in the heart of the Oasi Zegna nature preserve in the hills outside of Milan was truly an unforgettable experience. Alessandro Sartori continued his explorations of proportion and the ease of monochromatic uniform dressing in a properly monumental way, all as the sun just crested the hill. An honorable mention must go to Brioni for its tranquil garden setting at a theological university that was the perfect environment to highlight the lightness, comfort and craftsmanship of Norbert Stumpfl’s elegant collection. Beautifully styled mannequins were placed throughout the courtyard in small groups engaged with each other, heads tilted as if in conversation, with great personality. Drapery shading the walkways gently rippled in the breeze, adding to the airy feeling of the clothing.
Trendspotting: We’re seeing an emphasis on easier, fuller proportions with dropped shoulders and wider-legged pants, especially denim, often puddling over footwear, making a big statement. Linen, a warm weather staple, has been a dominant fabrication in a variety of weights and treatments, in most silhouettes in a wide color palette. Tailoring had a significant presence throughout the collections, especially in lightweight, deconstructed “barely there” jackets styled in relaxed, elegant ways and including a strong component of eveningwear. There has also been a welcome increase in the presence of neckties in dressed up sartorial looks. Bold, saturated color and strong patterns as well as contrasting softer pale, neutral shades, especially in tones of muted greens, were fresh and appealing. We’ve seen a growing presence of casual dress footwear especially in flexible loafers and varieties of slip-ons that will be perfect to add to our customers’ spring options.

Prada, men’s spring 2023
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Must-have item: A Prada checked trenchcoat, a boldly colored plaid sport jacket from Kiton, Fendi denim jeans and shorts, a pale linen suit or sport jacket from Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni’s unconstructed navy seersucker suit, a great jacquard evening jacket, and suede slip-ons.
Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion

Favorite collections: Prada was an absolute standout. From the Koolhaas paper set to the outerwear and the boots, it was Raf and Ms. Prada at their strongest. Etro’s sensual approach with transparency, perforations and breezy fabrics was a memorable swan song.
Best presentation concept: They’ve worked together for 18 years, but Koolhaas’ “resistance to luxury” set at Prada was thought-provoking and the pair continue to push concepts together each season.
Trendspotting: Fantastic outerwear and leather shorts at Prada, louche shirting at Etro.
Must-have item: Wales Bonner belted trench, Wales Bonner denim, basically everything from Wales Bonner and the Prada boot. Oh, and Wales Bonner’s shoes!
General comment on the season: As we felt with Pitti where Wales Bonner stepped it up, there’s a feeling of renaissance this season — looking forward to seeing what we have to come in Paris. We love the elevated mood so far, this will talk directly to the Matchesfashion man.
Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: This is our first season back in Milan for the men’s shows, and we could not be more thrilled to be here. Broadly, what I have found interesting is the way each brand has responded to the pandemic, each focusing on their individual approach to meet customer needs. For example, one of the key parts of the conversation is the power of choice; men have more opportunity for individual expression and personal styling than ever before. This was the focus at Prada, where they offered up a little something for everyone — slick tailoring, beautifully washed denim, a wider range of outerwear, and a very cool new sneaker. While perhaps stylistically best known for celebratory apparel that’s ready for the party (and ready everyone is, now) Versace’s bold and brash Saturday evening show was a riotous blast of energy that quirkily brought homewares to the runway. Given the success of the category over the past couple of years, and the brand’s unique presence in the market, it was savvy reminder of their breadth of offer. And finally, with the trip up to the Oasi Zegna, the brand reminded attendees that they have long been focused on environmental causes — their founder began acquiring and preserving the land around his mills more than 100 years ago. Of course, the collection itself also addressed many of the new ideas that intersect tailoring and workwear that are coming to the forefront as people return to the office.
Best presentation concept: Zegna’s runway show on top of their fabric mills offered incredible views alongside a stunning collection; it was an experience that I am sure many will not soon forget.
Trendspotting: The prevalence of tailoring on the runway speaks to the customer’s need for a great suit right now; whether he’s going back to the office, attending a wedding, or simply just wants to dress up for a night on the town, he’s on the hunt. Denim was another consistent theme of the week with great variations at Fendi, Prada and Dolce [& Gabbana]. Shades of the sunset and the desert (rusty oranges, ochre, mustard) were also quite prevalent in resortwear, as was terry cloth. And finally in footwear, we saw the return of more formal styles, skate-inspired sneaker shapes, and the mule.

Must-have item: Prada’s outerwear offer was absolutely incredible this season, with many great options in both solids and checks. I also personally loved Massimo Alba’s double-breasted jackets — rendered in stunning and light linen blends.
General comment on the season: More than anything, it is truly so wonderful to be back in Milan and to see the city exploding with new ideas and energy. Both the legacy tailoring brands and the fashion houses stepped up to the plate with robust collections that we’re excited to offer the Bloomingdale’s customer this season.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada’s return to simplicity with the slim-cut suit and classic iterations of the Macintosh jacket proved to offer a variety of choices to the customer for this spring. With denim, leathers and hits of gingham, the collection was a standout. Versace’s exciting collection of iconic silk prints paired with fluid tailored trousers and jackets is what everyone will want to wear come spring — with a Versace Casa vase in arm, natch. Brunello Cucinelli’s strong showing of the new suit signaled the return of suiting up again — but this time, your way. Whether styled with a sneaker or a suede espadrille, tailoring has been updated for today’s modern man.

Best presentation concept: Traveling to Oasi Zegna outside of Milan to celebrate the direction of the collection with Alessandro Sartori was an immersive experience into the world of Zegna. The backdrop of the collection truly exemplified the power of the brand.
Trendspotting: The suit is back. A key trend of the week was tailored fluidity in washed silks and summer-weight wool fabrics. From Etro, Giorgio Armani and Brioni, the silhouette for spring is loose and relaxed with an effortless nonchalant ease. Structured denim from Prada and Fendi proves to be a staple for summer. The sustainable iterations from Prada were standouts. The reedition releases of iconic silhouettes and styles from the late ‘90s and early 2000s. As shown by Dolce & Gabbana, the success of archive collections are reinterpreted for today.
Must-have item: The fringed raffia tote from Fendi. A gingham coat from Prada. A linen suit from Brunello Cucinelli. A suede espadrille loafer from Tod’s.
Buying process: Our teams are working through a hybrid buying schedule, but we have prioritized the key European market dates for in-person appointments.
General comment on the season: We are leaving Milan invigorated and energized for what’s to come for the men’s customer this upcoming spring. Throughout the week, designers showcased a strong product offering that will empower a life of self-expression for everyone, which we believe will translate through our own buys.
Raphael Deray, buyer men ready-to-wear luxury and designers for retail and e-commerce at Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada and JW Anderson were my favorites. The first one had a strong nostalgic vibe with very short-shorts, slim tailoring, leather and denim full outfits. It all looked very simple but the details and colors were amazing! JW Anderson was more of an art performance rather than a clothes presentation, and it was great. Also loved the Our Legacy look book.

Best presentation concept: JW Anderson, no doubts. We got to see some looks before the show even started with models as statues at the entrance in a theatrical way. The show was also amazing with art pieces rather than clothes to, in my opinion, address modern subjects. Jonathan looked at the influence of youth culture with the BMX and skateboarding, overconsumption with the bar codes, COVID-19 over the last years with the QR code knit and more.
Trendspotting: Definitely a big trend on pieces that expose the body. Almost every collection had several see-through pieces or cutouts making the hips/chest visible. Versace, 1017 Alyx 9SM, JW Anderson, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana…all of them. Leather was also trendy with loads of full looks, trousers, jackets. Finally, pop colors with some touches of neon yellow, sky blue, deep pink.
Must-have item: Feet jewelry (thanks Etro) for this summer and Santiags (thanks Prada)!
Budgets: Up! Not only because we are optimistic after COVID-19, but because cost and prices went up as well.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Fendi’s denim hues laid the base for an impactful color story throughout and only enhanced the sporty and relaxed feel. This aesthetic extended into touches of tailoring, textured fabrics and accessories and head-to-toe coordinated looks ensured this collection was a roaring success. A monumental Etro show to celebrate the final collection of Kean Etro as creative director, after a triumphant 30 years at the helm. A celebration of print, embroidery and fabrication that epitomizes Etro, and makes you long to be on a sun-soaked holiday in the Mediterranean — the coastal holiday wardrobe perfected! Zegna, a real standout for me in in the schedule; a collection full of modern sophistication and clean style, from pared-back tailoring in rich fabrics to more casual, athletic aesthetics.
Best presentation concept: The location and the collection played equal parts in ensuring Zegna had the standout presentation of the week. The rooftop of their historic headquarters and picturesque mountain-scape surroundings set the scene for a truly elevated and elegant collection.
Trendspotting: Washed and faded denim was seen in almost every collection, Fendi and Prada were the masters of the trend and I expect to be the go-to denim for next season. Leather: from Prada’s micro shorts to JW Anderson’s basketball shorts and trenchcoats at Fendi — leather has solidified itself as a true staple and is here to stay. From bold colors to muted tones, tailoring reigned supreme this week. The trend was largely seen in loose and fluid silhouettes, from masters such as Zegna and Brioni. Of course, there was a presence of sharp and fitted styles, Prada’s show was proof — if it were ever needed — that the suit is here to stay, where pared-back, clean black tailoring completely dominated the collection. The warm Milanese weather paired with a wash of linens, light knits and sheer fabrics gave the week a strong holiday vibe; a return to the coastal capsule wardrobe. Etro and Emporio Armani displayed this perfectly and it will be a huge success come summer next year.
Must-have item: Double, triple and even quadruple denim.
General comment on the season: Milan menswear returns to strength: from the headline shows to the static presentations, the brands showcased strong collections that were founded in the brands’ unique DNAs. From luxury fashion to sartorial tour de force.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Fendi, Prada, JW Anderson, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, MSGM, Emporio Armani, Dsquared2 and Marcelo Burlon. Among the younger brands: Magliano and JordanLuca.
Best presentation concept: Zegna treated us to a visit to Oasi Zegna, which was a spectacular way to end the week. The show took place on the company’s original wool mill rooftop. A master of the color palette, Sartori made us appreciate Zegna’s precious fabrics in the flourishing natural background of Oasi Zegna.
Trendspotting: The collections showed many references to a sophisticated man, with a marked returned to tailoring, which we saw mainly in relaxed cuts up to Prada’s more formal slim suits. The heat in Milan was the main topic of small talk, and was the perfect background for the many beach/vacation ensembles that we saw on the catwalk, from shirt and boxer sets to flowy caftans, to open-work knits, proposed in the ever-present muted neutrals. The more directional brands went for an acid-techno infused inspiration, where music and events in town played a big part in the narration. Strong colors like acid yellow, bubblegum pink, Klein blue, purple, psychedelic prints were all over the collections and spoke to a younger clientele in search of fun, positive energy and aggregation. Lots of denim, also in sets, and tough black versus strong white for genderless looks.
Must-have item: Prada’s car coat in one of the many gingham iterations will be next fashion week’s uniform for the street-style crowd. For shoes, Fendi offered plenty from which to choose, from the suede summer moccasins to the logo-embossed rubber slides. For the beach-inspired looks the must-have piece is the sarong, as seen at Dsquared2, or a shirt and boxer poplin set, as seen at MSGM. The hat will be a styling essential, from wide-brim straw explorer hats to fun crochet caps. With reference to tailoring, the best seen were Prada’s crispy suits and Fendi’s tailoring separates, continuing the cropped proportion (I loved the cropped sleeves blazer and Bermuda ensemble). The prize for the most fun styling prop goes to Versace’s homeware porcelain pieces perfectly complementing the rich colorful looks.

Versace, men’s spring 2023
Aïtor Rosas Suñe / WWD

Budgets: We have been recording a very positive summer season in all of our stores thanks to a tourism boost. We expect a strong growth in the 2023 spring season and are investing accordingly.
Buying process: Since the beginning of the sales campaign we are back to buying in the showroom, even though we have kept a mix of digital and physical appointments that is quite efficient in terms of time management and traveling.

General comment on the season: Starting with Milan Design Week, followed by Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week, we have seen a very positive energy in the city and in brands and buyers around town. The same energy could be seen in cheerful collections that speak to a younger client and make us forget for a moment about war or the never-ending pandemic.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director, Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg
Favorite collections: Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Kiton.
Best presentation concept: Zegna. It was really interesting to bring all the guests to the roots of the brand and at the same time see the evolution that Alessandro Sartori brought to the brand. I also liked a lot Dolce & Gabbana’s fashion show, which brought back the memories of all their previous collections and it was a great trip through the iconic styles of the brand.
Trendspotting: Suit, suit, suit. Let’s go back to the well-dressed man. It can be really advanced in style as Prada or more iconic as Kiton, but for sure the suit is back. Brunello Cucinelli has been pushing for already two seasons the desire of men to get back to the suit and even this presentation was all focused on that.
Must-have item: Santoni’s colorful shoes. I can’t complete the look without having a masterpiece of Italian craftsmanship — a pair of Santoni shoes.
General comment on the season: I think [it was a] breath of fresh air out of any COVID-19 memory. The excitement around the fashion week is back and I am really happy about that.

What styles were men looking for the most in 2021?According to Trendalytics, the top trending searches among men this year included crossbody bags, work shirts, shackets and baggy jeans, but the trending searches were led by varsity jackets.
“Varsity jackets have been adopted by the fashion industry, appearing in recent collections by Tyler the Creator’s label Golf Wang, Off-White, Vetements and Saint Laurent,” the report said.
Seems varsity jackets never fell out of style. Hedi Slimane introduced the Saint Laurent black varsity bomber jacket with white shoulder details that has appeared in different iterations at different brands, but more colorful collegiate styles at contemporary, premium and fast-fashion brands helped push the trend.

Trendalytics tracked general global Google searches through the year to find what has been on men’s minds the most when it comes to style. They measured the top trending searches by search volume and percent increase over last year. For instance, searches for varsity jackets grew 149 percent over 2020 and was 3 million over last year’s searches.

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Crossbody bags were among the next highest searched items, having increased 63 percent over last year, as well as work shirt searches that increased 185 percent, shacket, or shirt jacket, searches increased 316 percent, and baggy jeans searches increased 81 percent.
Trendalytics explained that crossbody bag searches might have increased due to an evolution in utilitarian styles and elevated streetwear, and credited “gorpcore,” or outdoor styles as the driver for work shirt and shacket search increases.
Finally, baggy jeans is seen by Trendalytics as a casual, comfortable style seen to transition out of sweats and apparel worn often during lockdown, but also a callback to Y2K fashion that is emerging as a new trend among Gen Z consumers on TikTok.
Some other top searches for the year outside of men’s wear included Telfar bags, “Squid Game” and NFTs. The Bushwick Birkin would be a trend topic on Twitter almost every Thursday this year when there was a new drop, and searches for the style increased 253 percent over 2020 (6 million searches); “Squid Game,” the popular Netflix series, was the top culture search topic with more than 181 million searches, and searches for NFTs, another culture search topic, increased 2,098 percent over last year (a growth of 4.3 million searches).
Trendalytics is a predictive data and retail analytics platform that uses Google search trends, social media and e-commerce market data to predict emerging and stagnating trends.

Needless to say, the fall 2021 runway season has been a weird one.
Not only because the shows have been digital and we’ve sat in our homes watching them online, but also because designers presented a comprehensive juxtaposition of wearable clothes and high concept ideas. The biggest trends sprung from the idea of creating the perfect suit for right now. The results were baggie and comfortable designs reminiscent of the nineties slouchy style.
The idea of making outerwear a fall trend sounds ridiculously obvious, but this season’s statement-making coats were at the forefront more than ever.
The same applies to the array of knits shown this season, from turtlenecks and large textured cardigans to extra, extra long crewnecks. The long johns at Prada signaled that the concept of underwear as something intimate-only is out the window.

Dior brought back pomp and circumstance with his the military uniform universe, while Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton played with all American references, resulting in some great varsity jackets.
All that said, an underlying sense of optimism was the key message, and the use of bright colors was a clear signal that fashion is feeling hopeful — and so are we. Here are the top trends of the fall season.
COMFORT SUITS
After nearly a year of turning the living room into a boardroom, designers are channeling the work from home routine into the perfect blend of coziness and function. The result is a suit that works as well in a Zoom world as it does in real life.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna

Kolor Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Kolor

Y/Project Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Y/Project

COLOSSAL COATS
This season’s stars range from textured graphic numbers and dressing gown styles to inside out designs and over the top, evening-inspired, unisex top coats, all of which guarantee to grab attention.
Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Casablanca Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Casablanca

GmbH Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of GmbH

KNIT HITS
Jonathan Anderson’s conceptual “knit over knit” design at Loewe is a clear example of the cozy to the max mood that’s injecting new life into this men’s wear staple.
Loewe Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Etudes Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Etudes

Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Dries Van Noten

NO LONGER UNDERWEAR
A clear result of the times we are living in is the idea of wearing underwear as a statement fashion piece, like the long johns at Prada or the classic tighty whities on the opening look at Rick Owens. The trend speaks to the intimate-at-home vibe that permeated the season.
Prada Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Prada

ERL Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of ERL

Rick Owens Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Rick Owens

COLOR CODE
The use of bright blues and greens — as well as a good amount of red — packed a punch of positive vibes, telegraphing an optimistic message for the future.
JW Anderson Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of JW Anderson

Phipps Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Phipps

Casablanca Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Casablanca

AMERICAN IDOLS
Whether it’s a classic collegiate varsity jacket at Louis Vuitton or the preppy-inspired reworkings of a knit vest at Y/Project, these heritage pieces redefined the All-American classics trend.
Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall 2021  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Y/Project Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Y/Project

Reese Cooper Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Reese Cooper

UNIFORM APPROACH
At Dior, the pillar of men’s wear — suits — received the royal treatment by using the dress code from the inductees into the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Meanwhile, a traditional admiral’s naval coat at Wales Bonner exuded a retro vintage vibe ideal for Gen Z and beyond.
Dior Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Dior

Wales Bonner Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of Wales Bonner

JW Anderson Men’s Fall 2021  Courtesy of JW Anderson

It is undeniable that designer Kim Jones has defined a new aesthetic for Dior men’s since he took over the creative direction of the brand in 2018. His confident understanding of traditional men’s wear, his refusal to conform with outdated and overly conventional men’s style rules and his respect for Dior’s heritage codes, including the house’s couture legacy, has allowed him to connect with consumers from all over the world. His rolodex of uber famous personal contacts happily willing to wear his creations — including David Beckham, K-pop music group BTS and fashion loving musician Maluma, to name a few — hasn’t hurt, either.
As part of his fashion genesis, Jones collaborated from the beginning with some of fashion’s close relatives in the contemporary art world. Teaming with artists like Kaws and Kenny Scharf, Jones has used his platform each season to inspire and educate a new generation through graphic storytelling, and in doing so giving an intellectual seal of approval to his creations. For fall 2021, Jones collaborated with Scottish-born painter Peter Doig. The blend of Dior’s couture elements, Doig’s rich visual repertoire and Jones’ mastery of ceremonial military uniform construction was this season’s proven success formula. Here are our top five looks that define fall 2021 Dior Men:

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Look 1
Photo courtesy of Dior 

Look 1 is key in most runway shows. This black coat covered in a dense gold and rhinestone pattern required 1,200 hours of embroidery and was inspired by a Dior couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan in the 1960s. Worn over a military-influenced, star-button suit, it was the most ornate of all. Perhaps not the most realistic look for the present day, but fabulous nonetheless.
Look 18
Photo courtesy of Dior 

An example of a successful art collaboration, Look 18 features a lion, a theme in Peter Doig’s paintings, in the form of an eye-catching graphic embellishment on this rich brushed mohair sweater. Its painterly resemblance to the actual art piece is a testament to the house’s atelier artisanal know how. The bowler hat designed by Stephen Jones, Dior’s resident milliner, was hand painted by Doig himself and will be sold in small quantities to VIP clients.
Look 42
Photo courtesy of Dior 

Jones’ obsession with military garments is no secret. Uniforms are a central theme of the collection — a reference to the designer’s graduate collection at London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2002. This ceremonial-yet-sophisticated take is also influenced by the designer’s research of the ceremonial tail-coated attire, which was the required dress code for artists when inducted into the Academie des Beaux-Art. Look 42 serves as the perfect example of Dior’s glam “army of fashion lovers.”
Look 13
Photo courtesy of Dior 

The color palette of the collection largely ranges from Dior gray to muted blues and browns — inspired by the painters work — but an infusion of vivid yellows and oranges pumps up a sense of energy and happiness. Look 13, a bright yellow cropped anorak with silver embroidery worn over an off-white admiral’s jackets and baggy military pants, gives a ‘90s vibe and lends a more commercial angle to the offering.

Look 10
Photo courtesy of Dior 

Doig’s art piece Moruga (2002-2008) was the starting point for the creative camouflage print featured on look 10. This elevated take on army fatigues is another important takeaway from the collection, and the use of this print on the new season’s Saddle bag is definitely a highlight that blends right in.