Matty Bovan

Kendall’s Turn for Choo, Matty Bovan’s Big Knit, CDLP’s Women’s Line

Kendall’s Turn for Choo, Matty Bovan’s Big Knit, CDLP’s Women’s Line

KENDALL AND JIMMY: Jimmy Choo is putting their best foot forward.
The luxury accessories brand has just unveiled Kendall Jenner as the campaign face for its “Time to Dare” series for fall 2022.

Jenner was photographed by Carlijn Jacobs in Los Angeles by a villa backdrop with a pool and palm trees. Jacobs is known for working with the likes of M le Monde, Chanel, Berluti and more.

Jenner wears the brand’s quilted leather shoulder bag, Varenne Avenue Quad and knee-high boots, the Dreece and Blake, in shades of candy pink, black and gold.

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This is Jenner’s debut campaign with the brand; previously she has been the face of Calvin Klein, Stuart Weitzman, Longchamp and more.

In 2021, the model launched her tequila company named, 818, marking her first solo business venture. 

“For almost four years, I’ve been on a journey to create the best tasting tequila,” Jenner revealed to her 255 million followers on Instagram.

Jenner wears the brand’s quilted leather shoulder bag, Varenne Avenue Quad and knee-high boots, the Dreece and Blake in shades of candy pink, black and gold throughout the campaign.

Courtesy of Jimmy Choo

“After dozens of blind taste tests, trips to our distillery, entering into world tasting competitions anonymously and WINNING (🥳), 3.5 years later I think we’ve done it! This is all we’ve been drinking for the last year and I can’t wait for everyone else to get their hands on this to enjoy it as much as we do!”

Leading up the business side of the brand, Jenner has hired Mike Novy as president and chief operating officer of 818. He previously held positions at Tequila Casa Dragones and Constellation Brands, where he worked for 13 years in sales.

Jenner will return for the second series of her family reality TV show on Hulu, “The Kardashians,” on Sept. 22. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

BIG SWEATER: Fashion designer Matty Bovan, who took home last year’s Woolmark Prize, is the latest artist to take over the Now Gallery in London’s Greenwich Peninsula to present his art installation Ribbons.

From Nov. 30 to Feb. 20, 2023, the gallery space will be filled with a ceiling-height hand-knitted sweater that invites visitors to explore the colorful tent-like structure and watch the experimental film “Ribbons,” which documented how Bovan created the giant piece of knitwear.

Matty Bovan at the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion show.

Dave Benett/Getty Images

The space will also have a special soundscape and be filled with scents of geranium and lavender.

The commission aims to “reexamine their views on fashion, art, textiles and craft while encouraging them to dream and get lost in the weird and wonderful world of Matty Bovan,” the gallery said.

Bovan said “Ribbons” explores “a more intimate and special place” in his world.

“My grandma taught me to knit at age 11, and I have never looked back. Passing down skills and exciting people about craft is a central focus of my work,” the designer from Yorkshire said.

“Ribbon is usually used as a trim or flourish in fashion and craft; here I am taking the idea of a small-scale, somewhat apologetic trim, and blowing it up with full brute force of energy and hardcore craft. There will also be a chance for people to get involved with interactive show elements, which illustrate the importance — and fun — of crafting and making things yourself,” he added.

Jemima Burrill, curator at Now Gallery, recalled how Bovan excited her when she was watching his online presentation during the lockdown.

“The film he created was nothing like anything I had seen before. It struck a nerve and made fashion exciting again even at the bleakest hour. He had to be the next Now Fashion Commission, whatever he came up with would rupture our space and make us think about clothes, life and who we are — in a different way,” she said.

Previous artists who have shown at Now Gallery include Yinka Ilori, Manjit Thapp, Joy Yamusangie, Nicholas Daley, Mowalola, Phoebe English, Molly Goddard and Lydia Chan, who last year transformed the curved facade of the art space into a futuristic fantasy world through an array of vivid colors, augmented reality interactive component and alien-shaped creatures. — TIANWEI ZHANG

HER TURN: “Transcending lingerie” is how Ingrid Guttormsen described her approach to CDLP’s first women’s products.

The Stockholm-based maker of “sustainable luxury essentials” for men is launching its first women’s essentials collection on Sept. 21, an exclusive with Net-a-porter, in addition to its own e-store.

CDLP’s new range for women includes T-shirts and briefs.

Courtesy of CDLP

“The line was developed with both a consideration of how the product feels on skin, but also how it compliments the outer layers,” explained Guttormsen, design director at CDLP. “While designs are functional, there are delicate details, which creates an interesting connection between under and outerwear. Structures are strong; materials are soft.”

A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Guttormsen has designed for Alexander Wang, MM6 Maison Margiela and Jeremy Scott earlier in her career.

The succinct debut collection spans thongs, briefs, bralettes, a T-shirt and tank top in either black or white. The main fabric employed is Tencel, made from renewable wood sources and prized for its softness, breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities.

Details include herringbone trims, tonal debossed logos, adjustable two-way straps and custom silver hardware.

Founded in 2016 by film director and photographer Christian Larson and entrepreneur Andreas Palm, CDLP has so far specialized in men’s underwear, T-shirts, socks, as well as items to wear by the pool, at home and for sports.

Investors in the brand, which is an abbreviation of the phrase “un cadeau de la providence,” include Matchesfashion founder Tom Chapman and Swedish American entrepreneur Cristina Stenbeck.

“We started to see a women’s customer emerge naturally,” Larsen said, explaining that its fits and silhouettes are “universal. Therefore, to go backward and develop underwear essentials for this customer group was an organic yet thoughtful progression.” — MILES SOCHA

CAPTURING THE MOMENT: Yohji Yamamoto is marking the 50th anniversary of his first brand Y’s by revisiting fashion moments by British photographer Max Vadukul, who has been shooting for the Japanese designer since the ’80s.

Eight images, some assembled into collages, will appear on a capsule collection of clothing and accessories, including T-shirts, to be released in November. However, four of them will be pre-sold exclusively at the Y’s store on Ometesando in Tokyo from Friday.

The images derive from six collections done between 1999 and 2002, and Vadukul and creative director Claudio Dell’Olio reworked them so they would look cool on clothes.

Yamamoto’s art director Marc Ascoli conscripted Vadukul even before he had an agent, with his first assignment capturing Y’s fall 1984 collection out on the streets of New York. Prized for his reportage and portraits, Vadukul would later become a staff photographer at The New Yorker. He has also shot for a host of fashion and culture magazines, including French Vogue, Italian Vogue, Interview, Rolling Stone, Esquire, Egoiste and Town & Country.

According to Y’s, the exercise proves the timelessness and everyday nature of Yamamoto’s designs: “Spontaneous images of people’s lives, where Y’s clothes just exist alongside them.” — M.S.

A look from the Y’s capsule collection made from archive images.
NEW JOB: R13, the New York-based denim firm, has named Lily Gunn Townsend president.

Most recently, she was with Michael Kors as vice president of Collection ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear. She was at Kors for 17 years.

Lily Gunn Townsend

Amy Drucker

At R13, she reports to Chris Leba, chief executive officer and creative director.

Gunn will oversee global wholesale, retail, manufacturing, and product development for R13 and Denimist.

“I am so excited to work with a visionary like Chris and support the R13 and Denimist teams in this time of evolution and global growth,” said Gunn.

Leba founded R13 in New York City in 2009 with a premium denim focus, and the brand has since expanded to elevated ready-to-wear and footwear. The well-established brand has become a staple to the ever-growing grunge movement with its edgy take on denim and sportswear.

“Our design formula has always been this yin and yang — of familiarness and the idea of saying, ‘I know what that is, but I’ve never seen it like that before’ — that’s my personal language,” Leba told WWD in June while showing resort. — LISA LOCKWOOD

15 Sustainable Fashion Buys for Summer

15 Sustainable Fashion Buys for Summer

As fashion’s focus continues to shift in favor of sustainability and ethical design practices, the challenge for buyers is becoming clear: What even is sustainable fashion? How do we know if pieces marketed as ‘sustainable’ are really kinder for the environment? What are the main benefits of buying from sustainable brands?
Upcycling old garments (look to Levi’s denim) and repurposing fabrics are just two ways brands can save on waste, water usage and their impact on the environment. Reformation began by selling vintage clothing out of a small Los Angeles storefront in 2009 – now the label creates its own designs and is 100% carbon neutral. To prove its commitment to the cause, they introduced RefScale, an internal lifecycle tool that can track the environmental impact that any of their creations has on the environment. Want to know how much CO2, water and waste you’ve saved by shopping a specific piece? They can tell you.
The real trailblazer in the quest for a sustainable fashion industry (well, at least as sustainable as possible while still being able to exist), is of course, Stella McCartney. Her aim? A wholesale change of operations; a new approach that will transform a linear economy – produce, consume, dispose – into a circular one which regenerates itself in diverse, non-damaging ways. Young designers like Marine Serre and Matty Bovan are already experimenting with upcycled, DIY creations but a veritable fashion system revolution would require vast monetary and planning investments from enlightened governments. McCartney is convinced it can be done if the design fuels desire.
We may not know what this summer holds for us but if a vacation is on the cards and you’re looking for one or two buys to spruce up a capsule of longtime favorites, then why not make them sustainable? We’ve rounded up 15 chic summer-ready pieces – from denim shorts to chic beach bags – by brands that live and breathe sustainability…
Read Next: 5 Middle Eastern Icons That Could Be Immortalized in Wax at Dubai’s New Madame Tussauds

Matty Bovan Wins International Woolmark Prize

Matty Bovan Wins International Woolmark Prize

LONDON – Matty Bovan was named the winner of both the 2021 International Woolmark Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation at a virtual ceremony hosted on Thursday.
The British designer will receive 300,000 Australian dollars in prize money, and a series of mentorship to scale his business.
This is the second time in the award’s history that one designer took home both major awards. Edward Crutchley bagged both the International Woolmark Prize men’s wear category as well as the Innovation award back in 2019.

2021 International Woolmark Prize winner Matty Bovan 

“It’s a huge honor to win these prizes and I’m so excited for where it’s going to take me,” said Bovan. “I was already so thrilled with the Woolmark Prize platform and experience.”

“Being a part of the International Woolmark Prize has really helped elevate my brand and elevate my awareness and knowledge of how I operate as a business and as a label. It’s been amazing and I have loved every minute of it,” he added.
Bovan was chosen from six finalists, who were tasked with designing a merino wool collection with a less-is-more approach for a judging panel which includes Carine Roitfeld, Ib Kamara, Shaway Yeh, Sinéad Burke, Tasha Liu, Thom Browne, and Julie Davies.

Looks from Matty Bovan merino wool collection 

The other finalists were Bethany Williams, Casablanca, Kenneth Ize, Lecavalier, and Thebe Magugu. They were selected from more than 380 applicants from 55 countries.

For his merino wool capsule, an ode to the sea, traveling, and escapism, the designer was particularly inspired by Horatio Nelson, who led the victory at the Battle of Trafalgar, and wanted to translate this story into his world.
He worked with local suppliers and manufacturers who are based in York and used deadstock fabrics to create pieces like a naval jacket screen-printed with images of Nelson and a fleet of ships from his archives, cable knits dyed with a mix of natural and acid dyes, and fishing waders that appear to be a trouser and skirt hybrid.
Bovan was praised by the judges for his “technically advanced jacquard weave designs, unique style, intricate designs which tell a story, advanced understanding of both knit and weave techniques, strong color combinations and sustainable approach to local sourcing and production.”

2021 International Woolmark Prize winner Matty Bovan’s creative process 

“He is pure fashion,” said Roitfeld. “He makes me dream and he reminds me of a young Vivienne Westwood or a John Galliano and we desperately need that sort of designer in the fashion world of today.”
Browne called him “truly and authentically creative,” and said, “there is nothing more inspiring than young artists who are unique and true to themselves.”
The newly introduced Woolmark Supply Chain Award, which recognizes the outstanding contribution of a trade partner in the supply chain, was given to China’s Nanshan Group for supporting finalists over the years and working in close collaboration to bring the finalists’ vision to life.
See also:
International Woolmark Prize Teams With Solange Knowles’ Saint Heron
Matty Bovan RTW Fall 2021
British Designers Matty Bovan, Charles Jeffrey Ramp Up E-Commerce

International Woolmark Prize Teams With Solange Knowles’ Saint Heron

International Woolmark Prize Teams With Solange Knowles’ Saint Heron

LONDON — The International Woolmark Prize is teaming with American singer-songwriter Solange Knowles’ creative firm Saint Heron to highlight the work of this year’s six finalists in a digital format, which includes all visuals, website design and a fashion film being released Thursday.
Concepted by Knowles, the film “Passage” features a diverse cast of artists showcasing looks from Bethany Williams, Casablanca, Kenneth Ize, Lecavalier, Matty Bovan and Thebe Magugu, who were selected from more than 380 applicants from 55 countries.
The winners will be revealed June 10. The recipients of the grand prize and Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation will receive 200,000 and 100,000 Australian dollars, respectively.

A new prize, the Woolmark Supply Chain Award, will also be given to recognize the outstanding contribution by a trade partner and presented to a member of the supply chain.
This year’s finalists have received 60,000 Australian dollars funding to create a six-look merino wool collection with a “less is more” approach to celebrate slow and responsibly produced fashion and craftsmanship.
They have also been participating in a yearlong mentoring program from IWP’s innovation academy, which offers finalists access to 43 supply-chain partners and mentors, product development support, textile research and development, business and sustainability strategies.

Some of them help a designer enrich their brand’s digital journey, such as the virtual ready-to-wear design system Hologarment, which produces an interactive AR showroom experience, and Blue Bite, which empowers brands to create digital experiences out of their physical products.
Other partners in the program focus on closing the loop in the fashion industry, such as TIPA, which provides fully compostable polybags, zipper bags, mailers, garment bags, and Queen of Raw, a marketplace to buy and sell unused textiles, keeping them out of landfills and turning pollution into profit.
Each finalist has a dedicated regional manager for the entire year, and some of this year’s finalists already delivered examples of how their businesses have evolved and how the prize has changed their practice.

Finalists of The International Woolmark Prize 2021 

Magugu, for example, has received extensive feedback from retail buyers about the elevation of his product, which has also increased sales. IWP said it has connected the LVMH Prize winner with specialist makers who previously turned him down, including a Japanese mill, an African tweed manufacturer, and textile developers in Amsterdam.
For his IWP collection, the South African designer worked with textile mills Hinterveld and Svenmill on the development of an anti-viral yarn, which was proven to be effective against viruses and bacteria for up to 30 washes. Magugu will be the guest designer at the 100th edition of the international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo and present his spring 2022 collection in Florence. 
Bovan and Casablanca’s Charaf Tajer have also seen their retail sales increase since developing their collection under IWP guidance.
Bovan’s IWP collection is made from roll-end cloth from British mill A.W Hainsworth. He developed knitted panels which are then draped into garments, meaning there is no cutting involved and no waste textiles. Tajer incorporated padded oil capsules into his IWP design, which he believes can enhance the wearer’s well-being when the person comes into contact with the fabric.

Williams, who received the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2019, executed her IWP collection in partnership with Her Majesty’s Prison as a social project, with an aim to create a supportive environment in which to increase well-being and reduce re-offending rates among the participants by equipping them with professional skills and qualifications. She also developed upcycled knitwear and embroidery with Manusa in Italy for the Woolmark Prize.
Ize’s collection is inspired by Nigerian youths who fought against police brutality with the EndSARS movement. On top of working with local weaving communities to modernize Aso-Oke handwoven techniques, he introduced Nigerian-spun rayon to create an innovative wool crepe fabric. This was the first time Ize has introduced wool yarns to his local artisans.
Marie-Ève Lecavalier from Canada partnered with textile innovation studio Byborre to develop a denim-look knitted fabric to avoid heavy pollutants and excessive water usage with traditional denim for her IWP collection.
Thom Browne, who joined the judging panel this year, alongside Naomi Campbell, Holi Rogers, Shaway Yeh and Sinéad Burke, said “there is nothing more inspiring than young artists who are true to themselves.”
“By encouraging innovation through education and funding, the prize gives finalists the space to really consider what makes their ideas different and exciting. I wish all of the designers the best of luck. And I encourage them to remain confident in their individual ideas, always,” he added.
Woolmark Spins a New Yarn in Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld
Richard Malone and Bode Win International Woolmark Prize
Edward Crutchley and Colovos Win Woolmark Prize

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