London Fashion Week

Lojain Omran with the designers. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
This London Fashion Week brought an exciting new initiative to the forefront, featuring Saudi Arabian designers Atelier Hekayat and ArAm Designs for the launch of a new endeavor. It will feature a number of artists, fashion designers and filmmakers, all of whom will have access to other creatives attached to the British Fashion Council who can support and mentor creatives in each sector. The Alula Creates platform itself comes as part of the Saudi Arabian efforts to encourage female creatives in the region to collaborate with leading industry professionals and access development funds to support their work.
Arwa AlAmmari of ArAm Designs with her models. Photo: Noorunisa
The program has since developed and Atelier Hekayat and ArAm Designs were selected to emerge into the UK landscape and showcase their Spring/Summer 2024 collections at the Twenty-Two in London for London Fashion Week on September 19. It was a star-studded event with the likes of Tania Fares of Fashion Trust Arabia, Helena Christensen, Mila Al Zahrani and Lojain Omran present.
Sisters Abeer and Alia of Atelier Hekayat with their models. Photo: Noorunisa
Atelier Hekayat’s collection showed to be boldly monochromatic with widened sleeves and a firm nod to evening wear. Each piece was made by the brand specifically for a woman who likes to stand out. Abeer and Alia Oraif, the two sisters behind the namesake brand mentioned that they were incredibly happy to be a part of the initiative. “We feel very grateful to have been chosen to be featured and showcase our collection in London.” The sisters also discusses how important it is to be female creatives in today’s world: “We are so thrilled to be given such a privilege, we feel this is so important for more female designers and everything we do is with love, every dress we make is made out of love for our clients.” The pieces from their collection are ethereal and dramatic, the essence of each look creates a power of extravagance for the women who wear their pieces.

The second brand featured at London Fashion Week was ArAm Designs, founded by Arwa AlAmmari, who started off as a painter and sculptor and eventually stepped into the role of a fashion designer. The Saudi Arabian creative hand draws all her patterns intricately and prints her creations onto fabric, making each piece a one-of-a-kind treasure. AlAmmari was named one of the “most creative minds on the planet” as well as making the Forbes top 30 women in the Middle East with a fashion brand. In her words, “each piece is made intricately and with love, the women that wear my pieces bring it to life.” Each garment is handcrafted in Saudi Arabia and described by AlAmmari as “avant-garde femininity blended beautifully by my heritage.”

Below, more pictures from the special event.
Lojain Omran. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
Mila Al Zahrani. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
Tania Fares. Photo: Noorunisa

Photo: Getty
Daniel Lee staged his second show for Burberry in Highbury Fields, with a practical collection which felt appropriate for a morning stroll through one of London’s many parks. British Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen shares the five key takeaways from the show, below.

The show took place in Highbury Fields

It was an outdoor affair at Burberry on Monday afternoon, or at least as close as you get to it in the Islington area. For his second show for the British house, Daniel Lee erected a tent within Highbury Fields and filled it with green benches draped in quilted blankets topped with empty hip flasks. As guests arrived – Kylie Minogue, Naomi Campbell, Mo Farah and Skepta amongst them – food vans outside the tent served hot drinks and Eccles cakes to cement the particular national spirit Lee is bringing to Burberry: a contemporary city take on British country culture; Princess Anne goes to Archway, if you will.
Jewelry and hardware prints adorned the collection

Print played a huge part in Lee’s proposal. Motifs of jewelry and hardware – and the knight clips, shields and ‘B’ buckles of Burberry’s revived archive branding – added a bourgeois elegance to his somewhat stark silhouette, which felt like a vague riff on the daintier sides to British dressing. If there was a scarf-wearing lady reference in there, she was abstracted in dresses made from scarf-like ruffles, which Lee also perverted through wet-look material that evoked bin bags. As this season’s answer to last season’s graphic primary-colored checks, the patterns brought a new sense of lightness to proceedings.
The silhouette was practical and park-ready

Lee described his sophomore collection for Burberry as “an exploration of lightness, sensuality, beauty and elegance.” Evoked through the brand’s eternal codes – the trench coat, above all – he introduced a graphic, geometric silhouette that accentuated the shoulders through the sharpness of epaulettes or triangular cut lines, and a dropped hip through low-rise trousers and belts. The trench coat appeared largely in its original form, albeit oversized and squared and often worn as dresses. In his approach to the house’s emblem, Lee’s intentions felt particularly realistic: practical and park-ready.
Motifs evoked British flowers and fruits

As the show came to its climax, the nature-centricity Lee is bringing to Burberry – the great outdoors, the urban outdoors, the pretend-outdoors – came full bloom in dresses adorned with “English garden flowers and soft summer fruits” through poppy, forget-me-not and rose prints and embroideries. They made for a very tactile, textured and three-dimensional contrast to the sleek, clean, sharply-tailored suits Lee proposed for his male clientele. There was a case for quiet luxury in there, and a big proposition for red carpet dressing through the lens of Lee’s fuss-free Burberry.
The accessories were inimitably Daniel Lee

Set to a soundtrack by the British musician Dean Blunt – which included a blast-from-the-past sample of Victoria Beckham’s brilliant solo track Out of Your Mind – the collection continued the intensified focus on accessories that characterised Lee’s first show for Burberry. The shoes echoed the robust sci-fi sensibility of his Bottega Veneta bestsellers (and reached a zenith in crystal-encrusted crocs-like slippers), while bags with massive statement straps came in organic silhouettes with added hardware pizzazz, nodding at the prints’s focus on jewels and metals.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

With London Fashion Week in full swing, Arab designers on the calendar are making waves with their Spring/Summer 2024 shows. Below, discover the new Atelier Zuhra and Noon By Noor collections.

Noon By Noor
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
‘Moonlit’ by Bahraini label Noon by Noor, presented at London’s ‘HERE at Outernet,’ is a radiant testament to the boundless creativity of its founders, Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa. This collection, for Spring/Summer 2024, masterfully captures the ethereal dance between light and darkness, mirroring the moon’s ever-shifting phases.
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
The designers have woven a tapestry of contrasts throughout the collection. From the billowing cape-like sleeves that create an airy and voluminous allure, to the square-cut shirts, some cropped, others transformed into bibs, this collection infuses different elements with remarkable versatility. The inclusion of utilitarian cargo pockets on chinos, shorts, and cotton dresses tied at the back brings a dash of practicality to the elegance, while the jackets stand as paragons of clean lines and simplicity, artfully devoid of linings, facings, or canvas.
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
In a harmonious collaboration with their creative team, Shaikha Noor and Shaikha Haya have taken a cinematic approach, exploring the intricate facets of the Noon By Noor woman and seamlessly blending romance, softness, independence, and strength to celebrate the unique spirit of women. This collection, aptly adapted for the Middle Eastern climate, exudes confidence and strength, truly embodying Noon By Noor’s vision of harmonious contrasts and adaptive creativity.
Atelier Zuhra
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
In a dazzling display of gracefulness and nostalgia, Atelier Zuhra, the Dubai-based couture fashion house helmed by Omani designer Rayan Al Sulaimani, transported us to the refined opulence of the Victorian age with its latest collection, ‘Timeless Beauty.’ This enchanting collection pays homage to the era of grandeur, seamlessly blending the past with the present.
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
Each piece in this collection was a testament to the house’s signature craftsmanship, which has caught the attention of stars like Beyoncé. The intricate embroidery, and choice of fabrics like silk taffeta, French tulle, and silk organza resulted in pieces that embraced femininity to the fullest. Rich tones of red ruby, luxurious blue sapphire, and affluent fuchsia also created a captivating visual symphony that resonated with a sense of regal splendor and modern vibrancy.
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
Read Next: Hijabi Runner Intisar Abdul-Kader Just Walked the Runway for the First Time at Copenhagen Fashion Week

White, black, blood red, gray, sanitary blue, teal and soft pink told the story of

When it comes to delivering fashion thrills in the guise of witty, wearable clothes, Jonathan Anderson is surely among the best in the biz.
His spring JW Anderson show was a winner, with a boyish elan lit up here and there with little gusts of fantasy.

The show was fun and upbeat, from the kooky “Wallace and Gromit”-esque plasticine shorts and hunched hoodies that opened the display, to the khaki chinos and navy V-neck sweater at the end, the drama coming from full sleeves built on scrunched nylon.

This JW Anderson collection held on to the brand’s youthful zeal and experimental bent, but may find a wider audience with its variety of carefully calibrated looks.

There was a toy-like appeal to the colorful handbags, kitten-heeled moccasins, loose pants in a harlequin weave and the nearly cartoonish proportion to the rave pants.

Tufts of white feathers emerged from sleeveless, bubble-shaped bomber jackets, or the waistbands of cargo pants, adding a dreamy element that was heavenly and original.

Via decisive flourishes — a big portrait collar on a leather blouson, an apron-like appendage on a narrow trench coat, or extra-wide, extra-long drawstrings on a stiff hoodie-cum-dress — he made the ordinary extraordinary.

In a post-show scrum, the designer skirted the word “blunt,” which he’s been using a lot lately, and also shot down “minimalism,” surely an insufficient description for simple clothes packed with so much attitude.

“How do we find a new type of modernity — through experimentation and disruption,” he said, tidily answering his own question.

Anderson’s was the first big show of London Fashion Week, and clearly the one to beat.

For more LFW reviews, click here.

As a brand that’s known for blending folklore mythology with the mix-and-match playfulness of the Harajuku girls, Chopova Lowena brought the spirit of Cornwall’s Flora Day festival to a skatepark in West London for spring 2024.
“It’s one of the oldest British festivals. It’s a lot like the pagan festival with people dressing like Robin Hood, a mermaid, a dragon, or even a bush. We went for research and recorded the sound for the soundtrack of the show. So the collection is really about these characters inspired in a Chopova Lowena way,” explained the duo during a preview.

Their story was made believable by casting a diverse range of people of different body shapes, ages, and gender identifications to walk in the show. They are friends and customers of the brand, which include a buyer from Ssense, the wife of fellow fashion designer Sinead O’Dwyer, and the brother of Chopova. The audience could feel that the clothes came to life the moment they hit the runway.

On top of variations of the brand’s signature pleated skirt, which this season was offered in pure black, white, and broderie anglaise, the duo put out folksy dresses, biker jackets, graphic tops, crochet t-shirts, and logo boomers.

The brand also debuted its first range of handbags and footwear this season.

The duo called one of their bag styles “a survival kit for girls.” On the outside, it comes with a pocket for a notebook, a pen, a comb to brush hair, and a cardholder. On the inside, there is a nail file, which can technically be a weapon for self-defense. The other style is an oversized shoulder bag that can carry “everything girls like us need.”

The shoes, meanwhile, are great examples of the “ugly” fashion trend, especially those UGG boots covered with bows and metal charms.

For more LFW reviews, click here.

It’s Marco Capaldo’s second season alone at 16Arlington, the brand he cofounded with his partner in life and work, Kikka Cavenati, who passed away last year following a short and sudden illness.

Capaldo is determined to keep the brand going. The young couple had become a fixture on London’s social scene along with their chirpy partywear made up of feathers, sequins and metallics.

This season the models traversed through a complicated runway venue with Paloma Elsesser getting lost in the 16Arlington labyrinth in a shimmery sequined snake print dress.

Elsesser wasn’t the only one wandering — the show ended with half a dozen of the looks coming out for the finale, then there was a pause, leaving the audience distracted and confused as they anticipated more models to walk down the row of aisles. But then the show suddenly ended.

Where Capaldo succeeds is in his more simple designs, like the mini le pouf dress with pockets that opened the show followed by a micro skirt version. “There’s a couture silhouette that we wanted to relax and undo,” he said backstage, which was evident and carefully executed in the tailored coats that can double up as eveningwear.

The collection as a whole felt stiff, but between looks there was a glimpse into a new world of 16Arlington that Capaldo is building from the ground up.

He’s already perfected the accessories arm of the business with the Sidney studded shoulder bag that comes with two fold-over tops over two round pockets, resembling the wheels of a hand-drawn 2D car. Now it’s just time for all the other parts to come together.

Photo: Getty
The British Fashion Council has confirmed London Fashion Week will take place on September 16-20, but Burberry is bowing out and brands have been advised to cancel any “non-essential” events.
A pared-back London Fashion Week will go ahead next week but will lose one of its biggest names after Burberry said it is cancelling its show following the death of Queen Elizabeth II on September 8.
In a statement released on Thursday evening, shortly after the announcement of the Queen’s death, the British Fashion Council (BFC) said: “London Fashion Week is a business-to-business event, and an important moment for designers to show their collections at a specific moment in the fashion calendar, we recognise the work that goes into this moment.

“Therefore, shows and presentations of collections can continue, but we are asking that designers respect the mood of the nation and period of national mourning by considering the timing of their image release.” The BFC has recommended postponing or cancelling “non-essential” events like parties and openings as a mark of respect and will pause its own communication channels, or dedicate them to the Queen, until after the 10-day period of mourning.
Burberry said on Thursday evening it will not move ahead with its Spring/Summer 2023 show on 17 September “as a mark of respect”.
The date of the Queen’s funeral is yet to be confirmed. It is expected to take place around 10 days after her death, on either 18 or 19 September. Shows set to take place on the day of the Queen’s funeral “will need to be rescheduled”, the BFC recommended in the statement. The BFC also advises that designers with retail stores “may want to consider 24[-hour] immediate closure, black armbands for staff and closure on the day of the funeral”.
Prior to the news of the Queen’s death, London was gearing up for its biggest fashion week in three years, with both established and emerging designer brands returning to the schedule after pandemic-related disruptions.
Designers currently scheduled to show on 18 September — 10 days from the Queen’s death — include Nensi Dojaka, 16 Arlington, Rejina Pyo, Halpern, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Stefan Cooke and Richard Quinn; shows scheduled for 19 September include Christopher Kane, Roksanda and Chopova Lowena. A representative for Purple PR, which is overseeing Yuhan Wang and David Koma’s shows on 18 September, said the shows will not take place or be made public if the funeral is scheduled for the same day.
In the aftermath of the Queen’s passing, tributes poured in from the fashion industry, including the BFC, Burberry and Christopher Kane. The London Fashion Week website was updated with the message: “It was a great honour in 2018 to host Her Majesty at London Fashion Week to launch the QEII Award for British Design, which recognises design excellence and positive impact. Her Majesty’s effortless style, charm and sense of fun were evident, and her passion for supporting young creatives will continue to inspire the next generation.”
Originally published in Voguebusiness.com
Read next: Arab Leaders Pay Tributes to Queen Elizabeth II Following Her Death

With Storm Eunice wreaking havoc in London, fashion week continued with a mix of physical and digital shows, and designers showcasing their own brand of organized chaos. Upcycling and recycling emerged as major themes of this leg of the fall 2022 fashion month, and runways saw a number of colorful patchwork pieces and uplifting new silhouettes. While these would feel right at home on a modestly dressed influencer’s Instagram feed, they were also practical enough to keep warm in, once the mercury drops.
Matty Bovan showcased de- and reconstructed bomber jackets and parkas, and Conner Ives catered to the Gen-Z with leisure suits, and silk-fringed dresses and skirts, while Elleme brought forth risqué corsetry, made winter-appropriate—and modest—by way of unconventional layers. Nensi Dojaka, the current winner of the LVMH Prize and the designer known for her daring, lingerie-based aesthetic, widened her horizons by presenting a few demure outfits centered around puffer jackets and knitwear. Bahraini label Noon By Noor flew the flag for the region by including a variety of conservative options in its fall collection that flowed seamlessly between sportswear and couture.
A few designers also worked with their strengths in new ways. At Molly Goddard, her colorful ruffled and poodle skirts, and long fishtail dresses came with sensible outerwear and snug layers. Simone Rocha’s lace-trimmed dresses layered over other dresses were contrasted with biker jackets, and Richard Quinn’s signature head-to-toe florals and maximalist silhouettes were further exaggerated. Venturing further into tailoring, Emilia Wickstead’s modest offerings included double-breasted long coats and slightly oversized suits, and Roksanda’s blazers paired with fluid dresses and puffy volumes.
Elleme
Matty Bovan
Harris Reed
Noon By Noor
Molly Goddard
Conner Ives
Ahluwalia
Conner Ives
Molly Goddard
Richard Quinn
Rejina Pyo
Harris Reed
Simone Rocha
Raf Simons
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
Emilia Wickstead
Simone Rocha
Supriya Lele
Vivienne Westwood
Noon By Noor
Nensi Dojaka
Richard Quinn
Raf Simons
Roksanda
Rejina Pyo
Roksanda
Ahluwalia
Read Next: The 17 Best Modest Looks from New York Fashion Week Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

LONDON — Body inclusivity is a priority this season, as buyers at London Fashion Week gave a collective thumbs-up to Nensi Dojaka, Conner Ives, 16Arlington and Supriya Lele for showing sexy pieces made for every body shape and size.They are also impressed with the one-of-a-kind physical experiences put on by Richard Quinn, Harris Reed, Oswald Boateng and Rejina Pyo, as well as 16Arlington, where the show served as a touching tribute to Federica Cavenati, one half of the brand’s design duo, who sadly passed away late last year.
In terms of items, an overwhelming amount of buyers namechecked Dojaka’s cutout dresses, sheer jumpsuits and tailored pieces as next season’s must-haves, with some calling them “a guaranteed sell-out.”

Here, international buyers share some of their favorite moments from London’s fall 2022 season.

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Backstage at Richard Quinn fall 2022 on Feb. 19 in London.
Kuba Dabrowski for WWD

Libby Page, senior market editor, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: It’s been amazing to see such a strong roster of emerging talent at LFW again this season — and these were also some of my favorite collections in London, from Maximilian who showed at Fashion East, Supriya Lele and Nensi Dojaka, to Conner Ives who is part of our Vanguard mentorship program and just had his sensational debut London Fashion Week show. I also loved Simone’s sumptuous fabrications and Molly Goddards’ tulle skirts with oversize knitwear.
Top trends: In London, it’s very evident that the Y2K trend is here to stay. We had crop tops and chainmail skirts at Conner Ives, low-slung waists at Supriya Lele, and barely there black dresses from Nensi Dojaka. Generally speaking, It does feel like we are going “back to black” after a few seasons of bold brights and dopamine dressing. I’m always here for monochrome styling; from Nensi and Erdem’s black dresses to Simone’s quilted black coats, the collections signified a return to a more simplistic approach to dressing.
Must-have item: Believe it or not, the balaclava trend is staying put for another winter. From knitted embellished styles at Simone to a more hooded silhouette at Richard Quinn and Halpern. Erdem’s sequins hats were also exceptional.
Best presentation: New to Net-a-porter, Clements Ribeiro held a presentation at Cavendish Square. The industrial setting, which included impeccable abstract floral designs, was the perfect antidote against his bold, bright and colorful knits.

Backstage at Ozwald Boateng
Courtesy/Andrew Barber

Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: 16Arlington was one of our favorite collections this season. Sheer, sequin-embellished dresses and separates all created a standout show. A touching tribute to Federica Cavenati, one half of the design duo who sadly passed away late last year.
Another highlight was Sports Banger; an off-schedule show in Tottenham only attended by friends of the brand, artists, fellow designers and a select few journalists. The collection was a fun moment for me and encapsulated London’s vibrant cultural fashion scene by combining must-have “world party” print jerseys with couture pieces made in collaboration with an energy drink company.
Best presentation: Ozwald Boateng’s show was another highlight, bringing together an entire audience of friends alongside members of the fashion crowd. Idris Elba made a special appearance on stage, which brought to life the world of Ozwald, a master of tailoring and eveningwear but also vibrant colors and prints — a very special moment to witness.

Must-have item: Nensi Dojaka’s collection was beautiful and her sexy, lingerie aesthetic that has become synonymous with the brand was elevated to new levels of perfection. Our customers love her pieces, [which] are a guaranteed sell-out this season.
General comments: In general, this London Fashion Week we are very feeling very positive and the designers’ collections reflected that mood.

Runway at 16Arlington fall 2022 on Feb. 20 in London.
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Poppy Lomax, womenswear buying manager, Harrods
Favorite collections: 16Arlington showed the most beautiful dedication to the late designer and rang true to the brand’s recognizable DNA. The elegance of previous collections with the focus on white and crystals was still present, but it was lovely to see an exploration of all categories including belts, neckpieces and bags. Feather, of course, played a role in the collection in a more elegant way than previous seasons, the embellishments of feathers and tears are perfectly translatable to the Harrods customer.
Top trends: Embellishments were everywhere this season, from Simone Rocha’s jeweled socks and knitwear to crystal tears in 16Arlington and Huishan Zhang’s recognizable feathers — it’s a perfect nod to party season.
Must-have item: A Nensi Dojaka LBD is so of the moment and by far the most desirable piece of the season.
Best presentation: Rejina Pyo was a standout for London Fashion Week, a lovely collection that covered an array of styles and feminine silhouettes — paired with sushi and cocktails was a match made in heaven and a great way to finish the week.

Jawara Alleyne fall 2022 on Feb. 20 in London on the runway at Fashion East.
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Heather Gramston, head of womenswear, Browns
Favorite collections: London standouts were Nensi Dojaka, Poster Girl and Fashion East.
Top trends: Sexy bodycon 2.0 — a new and liberating version of sexy that has further developed last season’s “out out” aesthetic, now made for every body shape and size.
Must-have item: Nensi Dojaka’s sheer jumpsuit.
Best presentation: The Richard Quinn show was a real spectacle. From the pink walls and carpet to the live orchestra and choir, not to mention the giant chandelier held by latex gimp mask wearers, it was all such a sensory overload, but in the best way possible.
Talent scouting: Flame-haired Jan Baiboon walked nearly every show — one to watch!

Budgets up/down or flat: At Browns, supporting and developing young talent is a key part of our strategy, and London Fashion Week is always a great resource for homegrown talent and those designers really pushing boundaries and codes with their collections.
General comments: It was so encouraging to see body positivity become normalized in the casting throughout almost all shows and presentations — London more than delivered in representation.

Runway at Simone Rocha fall 2022 on Feb. 20 in London.
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Elizabeth von der Goltz, chief commercial officer, Matchesfashion
Top trends: We saw tonal dressing continuing on from NYFW and a new take on neutrals with subtle shimmer and shine at 16Arlington. There was a strong dressing-up mood with special occasion velvet from Simone Rocha; 1920s- and 60s-inspired glamour with dripping jet black beads at Erdem and Emilia Wickstead, and sheer paneling and cutouts at Nensi Dojaka.
Must-have item: Neutral, nude paillette dresses from Nensi Dojaka and 16Arlington. Oversize fair isle knits from Molly Goddard. Anything occasion from Emilia Wickstead, and Simone Rocha’s over-the-knee crystal-embellished socks.
Best presentation: Harris Reed’s presentation was stunning — Sam Smith’s intimate performance set against a backdrop of clouds was so moving and we all felt immersed in Harris’ world. The 16Arlington show as a dedication to Kikka was a very special and personal moment. It was so touching and a beautiful way to honor her, we were all in tears.
General comments: There was such a positive and creative energy surrounding LFW, we saw such enthusiasm and support for all the British brands. It was great to see the evolution of emerging designers like Maximilian, and it was an exciting surprise to see the fabulous womenswear at S.S. Daley.

Backstage at Nensi Dojaka fall 2022 on Feb. 19 in London.
Kuba Dabrowski for WWD

Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion buying, Mytheresa 
Top trends: Sportswear references were really strong along with Y2K and rave references. On the opposite side, there were also many super paired-down and more quiet looks.
Must-have items: Nensi Dojaka‘s cutout pieces with sequins and Simone Rocha’s babydoll dresses and knitted crystal embroidered balaclavas really stood out to me.

Best presentation: I loved Simone Rocha — her collection was surreal and beautiful and presented her beloved signature pieces, such as biker jackets, voluminous coats, big skirts and transparent dresses layered over other dresses. Other shows to note are Roksanda and the Central Saint Martins graduation show.
Talent scouting: There are two names to definitely keep an eye on. Chet Lo from Fashion East went on a journey to reinterpret skiwear and created amazing pastel-hued statement knits, and Harris Reed has followed his idea of romanticism gone nonbinary and created a stunning collection.

A look from Harris Reed’s “60 Years a Queen” collection.
Courtesy of Harris Reed

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director, Saks
General comments: It is amazing to return to London after a two-year hiatus. London Fashion Week is bustling with a new guard of talent, including Nensi Dojaka, Harris Reed, Maximillian and Chet Lo, and the creative buzz and energy from this next generation of designers are electric.
Best collections: Nensi Dojaka’s sexy, bold and confident collection was elevated with its new tailoring elements. Harris Reed’s demi-couture collection was another standout; the imagination, the execution and the vision left us wanting to see more. Additional standouts of the week were the Halpern, Richard Quinn, Erdem and Simone Rocha collections.
Top trends: There is so much play on volume and proportion this season. Layers, pops of vibrant color, statement coats, return to glamour and cutouts continue to be key trends. Overall, each designer seemed to focus more on expressing their signature design elements and less on trends.
Best presentation: Richard Quinn’s dramatic “night at the symphony” presentation created a beautiful experience for the senses.
Must-have items: One of Nensi Dojaka’s sleek, cutout pieces and Michael Halpern’s rainbow fringe gown.

Backstage at Erdem fall 2022 ​on Feb. 21 in London.
Kuba Dabrowski for WWD

Arielle Siboni, ready-to-wear fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Nensi Dojaka, Emilia Wickstead, Harris Reed and Erdem were standout collections. Supriya Lele and Conner Ives are also the designers to watch.
Top trends: Cutouts, embellishment and the reign of eveningwear continue as the top trends for fall. We’re also seeing lace, checkerboard nods to punk and lots of black on the runway.

Must-have item: Nensi Dojaka’s cutout dresses, Emilia Wickstead’s take on eveningwear with the beaded fringe, and Simone Rocha’s knit sets and velvet dresses were favorites.
General comments: This season continues to cement London’s reputation as the center for emerging talent with great collections from Harris Reed, Supriya Lele and Connor Ives. Designers are also taking the lead with eco-conscious designs by incorporating more sustainable fabrics and secondhand into runway shows.

Runway at Conner Ives fall 2022 ​on Feb. 18 in London.
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Lisa Ruffle, buying manager, Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Halpern was a standout, delivering hit after hit of exceptional evening looks that were elegant with a touch of sparkle and fluid fringe. 16Arlington produced an emotional and powerful tribute to the late Kikka Cavenati. The refined collection was filled with party-ready staples that capitalized on shimmering and translucent fabrications. It was undeniably a step forward for the brand. Lastly, Connor Ives felt fresh, fun and modern, solidifying London as the ground zero of emerging talent.
Top trends: London Fashion Week has been all about dressing up and the fantasy of fashion. Glamorous eveningwear was highly prevalent across most collections, from the couture-esque, structured proportions of Richard Quinn to the dark romance of Erdem’s sophisticated collection to the edgy, body-confident looks from Nensi Dojaka (this season shown on a range of body types). It was dressing up — any way you want.
Other key trends included white for formal dressing — whether you’re the bride or not! Y2K is clearly not going anywhere. Conner Ives’ collection of patchwork scarf dresses and skirts, kick flares and midriff-baring looks embodied the trend particularly well. The face jewels and cut-up T-shirts brought “Euphoria” to mind.
Must-have item: The dégradé rainbow fringe gown from Halpern was so special and we know it will resonate highly with our client who wants a unique piece guaranteed to “wow.”
Best presentation: 16Arlington was deeply emotional and highly personal. The runway was full of shimmering sequins, 90s minimalism, and translucent fabrics welcoming back the return of nightlife dressing. Marco Capaldo gave a beautiful and powerful tribute to his late codesigner, Kikka Cavenati, which left showgoers — who rose from their seats in a standing ovation after the finale — clearly moved.

Runway at Emilia Wickstead fall 2022 on Feb. 21 in London.
Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead

Sharon Dagan, manager, fashion office, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Erdem’s collection of beautifully tamed and moody glamour with sleek, embellished slipdresses and dark floral motifs. Richard Quinn’s couture-like craftsmanship and exaggerated proportions paired with his signature bright floral patterns made for a jaw-dropping show. Simone Rocha’s style of youthful punk royalty was a true highlight, where sweet and edgy coexist in her special type of dark romance. Harris Reed — this newbie on the block blasted his way through the old guard with a surreal collection that is sure to build a cult following. Our radar brands, Ahluwalia and Conner Ives, continue to solidify themselves on the London scene and global stage.
Top trends: Volume, turned all the way up; exaggerated proportions; creative layering; sultry glam; modern tailoring; fancy headgear.
Must-have item: Extreme volumes and proportions.
Best presentation: Richard Quinn’s collection embodied all the theatrics and melodrama that we have come to expect from London. An orchestra accompanying a full choir and a singer belting out Olivia Rodrigo’s “Traitor” seemed to strike a chord with everyone in the audience.
Budgets up/down or flat: We are definitely buying with confidence and optimism.
General comments: Pandemic or non-pandemic, the London designers’ juices were overflowing. Many drew inspiration from eras or places outside of their borders and the experience was creatively uplifting.

Backstage at Halpern fall 2022 ​on Feb. 19.
Francisco Gomez de Villaboa for WWD

Lisa Aiken, senior vice president, fashion and lifestyle director, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: A few standout collections from the week include Erdem’s polished yet undone dark romance, Halpern’s bold and bright evening and Simone Rocha’s incredible artistry. Nensi Dojaka has really honed her point of view, which feels very relevant right now. She found the right balance with commercial appeal, which as a retailer is of interest.
Top trends: London is a hotbed of talent. The way in which the London-based designers focus on prints and colors is done in a way that doesn’t exist in any other city. The color palette was highly saturated across the board with an emphasis on oversize florals and acid brights. On the other hand, we also saw brands like Erdem and Simone Rocha present a very dark, romantic glamour, which we believe will resonate.

Must-have item: A Nensi Dojaka cutout dress.
Talent scouting: It is fantastic that Central Saint Martins had more of a platform during fashion week this season. While they’ve always had a presence, it was nice to see them gain a lot more exposure from afar.
Budgets up/down or flat: We’re always looking for newness to add to our portfolio. We also love that the British Fashion Council also supports presenting British brands in Milan and Paris.
General comments: London Fashion Week is known for curating a lively week of shows, particularly for emerging talent. We look forward to seeing these designers in the showrooms.