Jonathan Anderson

Miu Miu Miniskirt, JW Anderson Pigeon Clutch and Birkenstock Boston Clogs Among Hottest Items in 2022, Says Lyst

Miu Miu Miniskirt, JW Anderson Pigeon Clutch and Birkenstock Boston Clogs Among Hottest Items in 2022, Says Lyst

Lyst, the fashion shopping platform that serves 200 million users worldwide, has released its annual year in fashion report. After analyzing data gathered from January to October, the platform concluded that 2022 was Miu Miu’s year.
Searches for the label, which was founded by Miuccia Prada in 1993 as a more personal subbrand to Prada, increased by 49 percent on Lyst year-on-year, and it was mostly driven by viral products such as its ballet flats, as well as the miniskirt, which was first introduced in the brand’s spring 2022 collection.

“The brand’s ballet flats quickly became its most popular product on Lyst following their release, having been worn by the likes of Sydney Sweeney, Bella Hadid and Rosalía. A simpler, Gen Z-friendly version of its 2016 counterpart, it plays into the balletcore and “indie-sleaze” trends that have been dominating the year. With the highly anticipated return of menswear for fall 2022 and a spring 2023 collection that generated more than 23 million views on TikTok, Miu Miu was the brand to watch on the runway,” the report said.

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JW Anderson’s 3D-printed pigeon clutch, introduced in the men’s fall 2022 show, was named the weirdest and most wonderful moment of the year.

Lyst said the clutch is sold out across multiple retailers, and the $890 accessory now comes with a waiting list. It has become the brand’s most viewed product on Lyst, with searches increasing by 488 percent in the first week of October when Sarah Jessica Parker was seen carrying it during the filming of the second season of “And Just Like That,” the sequel to “Sex and the City.”

Bella Hadid is dressed by spraying Fabrican Spray-on fabric during the Coperni spring 2023 fashion show.

AFP via Getty Images

The other “It” bag of this year is Prada’s Re-nylon Re-edition 2000 mini bag. Lyst said over the summer that searches for the item increased 131 percent, and its popularity shot up on TikTok thanks to its Gen Z-friendly ‘90s aesthetic. The hashtag #pradanylonbag generated more than 4.2 million views.

In terms of footwear, Lyst said Birkenstock’s Boston clogs are the hottest shoe of the year, with searches increasing 593 percent in the first six months of 2022. This shoe model also had a high fashion moment this year as it launched a collaboration with Dior Men for the fall 2022 season.

Lyst also namechecked a handful of celebrities responsible for creating some of the most viral moments in 2022.

For example, Hadid, who was named the power dresser of the year by Lyst for triggering an average 1,900 percent increase in searches for similar pieces that she wore, was the model in the creation of the viral Coperni spray-on dress. Lyst said in the days following the show, Coperni saw a staggering 3,000 percent increase in searches, making it the most searched brand from fashion month.

Kim Kardashian in vintage Bob Mackie at the 2022 Met Gala.

Christopher Polk for Variety

Kim Kardashian’s Marilyn Monroe moment at the Met Gala led to a 456 percent spike in Bob Mackie searches, while Elizabeth Debicki as Princess Diana in “The Crown,” where she recreated the famous “revenge dress” scene at the opening of Serpentine Gallery’s summer party in 1994, caused a 58 percent increase in searches for black off-the-shoulder dresses, while demand for black dresses with a sweetheart neckline skyrocketed 103 percent on Lyst.

The filming of Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie, starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling, helped Barbiecore become the trend of 2022, Lyst said. Searches for all things pink on the platform rose 416 percent after pictures of a pink-clad Robbie surfaced in June.

“But the defining pink of the year came courtesy of Valentino. Just a week after the brand’s unique shade of hot pink was presented on its fall 2023 runway, searches increased 152 percent,” the report added.

Other items and events that caused spikes in searches on Lyst include the Diesel 1DR bag, the Jacquemus x Nike collaboration, the “Weird Girl” trend on TikTok, Yvon Chouinard transferring his ownership of Patagonia to the Patagonia Purpose Trust, as well as the black Prada lace dress Sydney Sweeney wore to receive The Rising Star award at Cannes in April.

Sydney Sweeney attends the pink carpet during the 5th Canneseries Festival in Prada

WireImage

Lyst counted Luar, Amesh and Mônot as brands to watch for 2023.

Katy Lubin, vice president of brand and communications at Lyst, said the annual report provides “an opportunity to reflect on the moments that shaped how we shopped.”

“With the recent Y2K fashion renaissance and TikTok’s ever-growing influence on the fashion industry, we’ve seen a new generation of Lyst shoppers rediscovering brands that defined the early ‘00s. Brand of the year Miu Miu and logo of the year Diesel succeeded in capturing the zeitgeist for Gen Z luxury shoppers.

“Major global celebrities continue to have a huge influence when it comes to setting trends alight. Bella, Kylie [Jenner] and Dua [Lipa] were amongst the top tastemakers this year who truly inspired shoppers to add to bag.…They’ve already reached global cult status across the fashion fan spectrum, and look set to be one of the hottest gifting items for the holiday season too,” Lubin said.

The Top 10 Shows, Plus Top 5 Presentations of the Spring 2023 Collections

The Top 10 Shows, Plus Top 5 Presentations of the Spring 2023 Collections

Serena! Cher! Bella Hadid having a dress spray-painted onto her naked body!
The spring 2023 runway shows and presentations took the fashion pack from a rainy drive-in theater in Brooklyn to a London in royal mourning and on to lots of twins in Milan before wrapping up in Paris with the Eiffel Tower at Saint Laurent and Christian Louboutin and Kanye West’s controversial Yeezy show.

It was indeed a wild season, but also a supercharged one, with so many dazzling shows — and clothes — in every city, it was hard to choose favorites.

But WWD did. The criteria included showmanship, emotional impact, originality, clarity of vision and purpose, relevance, collection execution and all-around awesomeness. 

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Here, WWD’s top 10 shows of the season.

Top 10 Shows

10. Coperni

Coperni RTW Spring 2023

Aïtor Rosas Suñe / WWD

Ahead of their spring 2023 runway show, Coperni designers and married couple Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer told WWD, “It’s an homage to women in general, and the evolution of the morphology and the body through centuries.”

“Technology and fashion have always been uneasy bedfellows, but if anyone can make science sexy, then it’s Coperni designers, who partnered with Manel Torres, the inventor of the Spray-on fabric, for the performance,” WWD’s Joelle Diderich wrote of the brand’s show-closing performance featuring a nearly naked Bella Hadid in “the world’s first live-action spray-on dress.”

“Beyond the wow factor of watching Hadid walk down the runway in her instant dress, the show raised all kinds of fascinating questions about how technology will change the way we clothe ourselves not only in the virtual world, but IRL,” Diderich added.

9. Fendi 25th Anniversary Baguette Collection 

giovanni_giannoni_photo

“Fendi is one of a number of European brands energizing New York Fashion Week this season, staging a full-scale runway show and clothing collection inside a packed Hammerstein Ballroom on Friday night in celebration of the 25th anniversary of the iconic Baguette bag, introduced in 1997,” wrote WWD’s Booth Moore of Fendi’s spectacular New York City runway show.

“To further a “New York-y vibe of uptown-downtown,” Jones tapped his lifelong fashion hero and former Louis Vuitton boss Marc Jacobs,” Moore wrote, adding the duo came together to design tribute looks, accompanied by collaborative Baguettes with iconic New York jeweler Tiffany & Co. in Tiffany blue with silver charms and handmade solid sterling silver “resembling a piece of jewelry itself, for the ultimate collector’s item.”

8. Richard Quinn 

Fran Gomez de Villaboa /WWD

“Richard Quinn closed fashion week — with two shows in one. The first was dedicated to Queen Elizabeth II, and the second was the spectacle he had originally planned months before her death,” wrote WWD’s Hikmat Mohammed.

“We wanted it to be appropriate for the time, and it’s really historic,” Quinn told WWD, who also credited the queen for the brand’s success since made a rare — if unparalleled — fashion week visit in 2018 to present him with the Award for British Design. “It’s how everyone first knew us, and it will always be a part of our journey and history.”

The designer honored the queen with an extra 22 show-opening looks, which were said to take him and his studio 10 days to create — stitching through the night and while watching the late monarch’s funeral — and shifting his show to the evening following the funeral. The second part of the show featured 26 looks inspired by space and sci-fi — ending with a white bridal lace number.

7. Khaite 

Courtesy of Khaite

“I was going through a very David Lynch ‘Lost Highway,’ ‘Wild at Heart’ phase this summer,” Khaite designer Catherine Holstein told WWD of her collection’s snakeskin, bold zippers, crystal and fringe motifs, and the sinister Southwest and Sin City Las Vegas vibes.

“Certainly there is a bit of a fashion outlaw in Holstein. But her collections don’t really have themes. Rather, they are about the perfect piece on the coolest woman in the room,” Moore wrote of the collection’s femme fatale lineup of perfect-fit ready-to-wear and accessories. “From age 20 to 80, there was something for everyone.”

6. Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten RTW Spring 2023

Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

“Bloom therapy. That’s what Dries Van Noten’s spring 2023 collection felt like as it unfolded from an all-black beginning, to a softer middle, then exploded into a beautiful riot of florals that was a master class in mixing prints,” wrote Moore.

“I thought maybe we have to start from black, really the essence, the base of what fashion and clothes are — pleating, volume, structures, then to introduce the same volumes going from stiff and hard to softer, fluid versions. The shapes in fact stayed the same, so it’s the same lexicon,” the designer told WWD during a preview, adding the storyline, or rather three storylines, could be a metaphor for our times. “On the one hand you want protection but on the other hand you want to show your softer side.”

5. Comme des Garçons

Ko Tsuchiya/WWD

“A lamentation for the sorrow in the world today. And a feeling of wanting to stand together” were the two phrases Japanese maverick Rei Kawakubo released to explain the collection, her first shown on a Paris runway since the onset of the coronavirus pandemic.

“Kawakubo’s parade of colossal hooded shapes took your mind to “The Handsmaid’s Tale,” of course, and all its sinister implications. In profile, they sometimes resembled the horn-shaped vents on old cruise ships, which made you think about the migrant crisis, too,” reported WWD’s Miles Socha.

Socha labeled the collection “ingenuity on steroids,” with “every exit revealed a never-seen-before shape; sometimes strange, often beautiful, all executed in beautiful brocades, rich lace and other dressy and ceremonial fabrics.”

4. Gucci 

Vanni Bassetti for WWD

“I’m a boy who had two moms, because when I was born, the first seven years of life my mom had an identical twin. So I usually called them mom and mom,” Alessandro Michele said in an interview, speaking of his late mother Eralda and late aunt Giuliana. “It was so beautiful my life with a double love,” he mused to WWD’s Moore of his “Twinsburg” spring 2023 Gucci collection that started with a straight runway show, before a center divider lifted to reveal the same one happening on the other side.

“So I grew up with the idea of the other one who is exactly like you but not you. It’s about humanity. It’s interesting that twins are the concrete vision of the other. It’s very attractive because it’s exactly like you. I did experience this from the outside in a deep way, constantly living with these two women who look the same, dress the same way, had the same hair, the same parfum, and it’s beautiful how in the bad moment they cared about each other. It’s very paradigmatic of our lives.…Especially now we need to care about the other that’s physically another person, but also the other you.”

“It was a gorgeous, and deeply introspective, moment for Michele,” Moore said of the 68 pairs of model look-alikes — all of them actual real-life twins — that came together from opposite sides on the runway, joining hands for a final walk, making a poignant visual statement.

3. Loewe 

Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

“Anderson settled on a few key silhouettes, and both were sensational,” Socha said of Jonathan Anderson’s’ spring Loewe show, which featured tight polo shirts that flared out into brief baby-doll dresses; minidresses with compact panniers, one of the more offbeat trends this season, and shrunken hunting jackets and shearling bombers, either snug or trapeze in shape.

“At the other extreme, supersized sweatshirts and wing-tip tuxedo shirts became soigné sack dresses, arms poking through the bodice and the overly long sleeves dangling free. Long jersey dresses, in literal hourglass shapes cinched with bows, were delicate and divine,” Socha said.

“Most exits consisted of nothing more than a dress and a pair of quirky statement shoes, which have become a Loewe stronghold and one of the most expressive categories in fashion today.”

2. Rick Owens

Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

“I’m saying there are different aesthetic options,” Owens explained backstage to WWD’s Socha, amid eco-tulle skirts so vast they stood on their own. “It’s a protest against conventional judgment. And this is what I have dedicated my life to.”

“His spooky stalactite shoulders were back in a big way, on everything from snug bomber jackets to Barbie pink cocktail dresses,” Socha said. “So were his crumpled volumes, here in gleaming metallic fabrics, looking like car parts crushed elegantly around the body. These continue to challenge the eye, and Owens isn’t relenting.”

“Newer and completely seductive were his languid and revealing gowns with long trains; his giant tulle skirts, and his swishy chiffon trapeze tops, constructed with endless godets,” Socha said.

1. Bottega Veneta

Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD

“While some luxury brands roll out collections and collaborations every five minutes, we haven’t heard much from Blazy’s Bottega since his debut last February. And no wonder: It takes time, and a village of skilled artisans, to conceive and create a collection this good,” WWD’s Socha said of the spring collection.

Backstage, designer Matthieu Blazy was almost apologetic trying to explain how his own jeans, also all leather, had no stitching, and how the fringe on the finale dresses were integrated into the fabric, and then trimmed by hand, Socha reported. “It’s very technical. The project is not easy,” Blazy said to Socha. “Craft — the things we can do at Bottega that no other brand can — this is our identity.

Top 5 Presentations

5. Christian Louboutin 

4. Quira 

3. Brunello Cuccinelli 

2. Loro Piana 

1. Schiaparelli 

The Loewe Craft Prize Urges Arab Creatives to Partake in Upcoming Editions

The Loewe Craft Prize Urges Arab Creatives to Partake in Upcoming Editions

Loewe Craft Prize 2021 winner Fanglu Lin’s work “She.” Courtesy Loewe
The annual Loewe craft prize announces its winner today. Chinese Fanglu Lin (b. 1989) was chosen as the winning entry with her work, She (2016). The release announced, “The work astonished the jury with its monumental scale and breathtaking skill.” Featured above, the work is influenced by the thousand-year-old sewing methods of women of Bai Minority in Yunnan province, China.
Loewe Craft Prize special mention Takayuki Sakiyama Chōtō “Listening to the Waves”. Courtesy Loewe
The prize, founded in 2016, exists to honor craft from around the world. This year’s edition sees the launch of The Room, a digital platform exceptionally featuring the work of all 115 finalists since the Prize’s inception. Aiming to incite Arab creatives to consider applying for the prize in the future, creative director Jonathan Anderson tells Vogue Arabia, “The Craft Prize is getting bigger and bigger bit by bit, and we’re getting more and more exposure and more and more applicants. I think my biggest thing to say is that we would like more people to apply and not be scared of the prize. I think it’s important to apply. We have some parts of the world where we have huge amounts of applications, some parts where we have none, and some parts where we have a just few. I think it’s about word of mouth; this is a globally open prize. It’s about word of mouth and getting people to encourage one another to apply for the prize.”
While Paris has recently reopened its doors to museums and other cultural venues, many visitors to the City of Light who are still unable to travel can view the Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition virtually via The Room. “Obviously this year is unprecedented,” comments Anderson. “We have done everything we can to physically show these pieces as a curated show, and to be able to get people to navigate them. We do encourage people globally to go to craft galleries and museums to be able to see pieces by certain artists. Ultimately, we are grappling with the idea of tactility, which is incredibly difficult in the digital world. The Craft Prize’s team has done everything in their power to make sure this experience is as interactive as possible, to make you feel like you’re in the Musée des Art Décoratifs.”
Explore the digital exhibition and The Room on Craftprize2021.loewe.com and Theroom.loewe.com
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Must-Have Loewe Accessories For Fall 2021

Must-Have Loewe Accessories For Fall 2021

Since the pandemic started, Jonathan Anderson has been messaging positivity and feel-good vibes through his collections, emphasizing that fashion has the power to create joy. Gorgeous cocoon coats with exaggerated volume (this season’s big statement), the exploration of 1920s dress silhouettes and the injection of retro psychedelic colors and prints from the early ’70s got the fashion endorphins going.
Loewe, founded in Madrid in 1846, was first and foremost a small leather goods company. The ready-to-wear line was introduced in 1965, and for this season Anderson looked back in time and updated two of the house’s most iconic and classic bags.
The use of a boy’s moccasin as inspiration for a platform bootie and the introduction of a hybrid bracelet/bag perfect for a night out dancing made the point that fashion is for everyone — from the classic traditionalist to the adventurist.

Below, WWD chooses our favorite accessories from the fall ’21 show.
1. Amazona 28
First launched in 1975, the original Amazona was an “It” bag then and is primed to be one now. Reimagined in square and rectangular shapes, it comes in leather and jacquard and features the company’s logo design. This jacquard was introduced last spring, but for the fall season it comes in both brown and cream and black and cream styles, enhancing its timeless charm.

Related Gallery

Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

2. The Goya
Anderson calls the Goya bag, “Their big development this season.” This new launch comes in a variety of brightly colored tones. The hard construction and golden logo hardware detail speaks more to the traditional types, while the brighter colors and small size have a more playful fashion appeal. This new bag is an instant classic.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

3. Boyish Platforms
Playing with boyish references is one of the charming and ingenious abilities of Loewe’s designer. The creative approach of taking a boys moccasin, pairing it with a black leather socks detail and then adding a platform results in an extremely cool bootie that transforms and subverts any look. The chunkiness has a ’90s ravers appeal ready for the dance floor.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

4. The XL Flamenco
It is clear by now that extra-large bags are one of the most popular accessory trends this season, and this long-time icon from the house of Loewe is no exception. The oversize style works great on this unconstructed clutch, which is crafted from soft calfskin nappa leather featuring playful tassels on each end of the drawstrings. The sac look gives bohemian vibes, and infuses a cool edge into this everyday bag.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

5. The Bracelet Bag
What is not to love about a statement bracelet that turns into the ultimate evening bag? Crafted from supple pleated lambskin nappa leather with metallic golden plaques engraved with the Loewe anagram, it marries the very fashion mood of the collection with the practicality of a mini bag.

Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Naomi Campbell Will Join Vogue’s Virtual Forces of Fashion Summit

Naomi Campbell Will Join Vogue’s Virtual Forces of Fashion Summit

The excitement is mounting for this year’s first-ever virtual and global iteration of the Vogue Forces of Fashion summit—and as if the event wasn’t major enough already, the iconic supermodel Naomi Campbell has also signed on to participate. On November 16 and 17, industry giants and Vogue editors will join together digitally to discuss topics such as racial equality, social justice, sustainability, and the future of the industry. The lineup of speakers includes Lizzo, who will be in conversation with designer Jeremy Scott, along with Virgil Abloh, Victoria Beckham, and Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton. Also participating this year will be Alber Elbaz of AZ Fashion, creative director Craig Green, Bottega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee, photographer Ethan James Green, Loewe creative director and founder of JW Anderson Jonathan Anderson, and writer and director Reggie Yates.
Campbell’s panel will be hosted by a yet-to-be-announced special guest, but the discussion promises to be one of epic—or shall we say, super—proportions, with Campbell talking about her stellar career and political activism. The two-day event schedule will include opening remarks from Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour, along with keynote sessions with Campbell, Abloh, Lizzo, and other industry leaders. Other components to this year’s virtual schedule include live Q&As with Vogue editors, networking sessions, and virtual drop-ins from surprise guests as well as a morning wellness session and happy hour on the second and final day.
More details and tickets are available on the Forces of Fashion website. Check back for updates ahead of the event, which will take place on November 16 and 17.
Vogue’s 2020 Forces of Fashion is presented by Jeep Wagoneer.
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Originally published on Vogue.com

Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson Is Expanding In The Middle East In A Big Way

Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson Is Expanding In The Middle East In A Big Way

Anderson continues to divide his time between his namesake label and Loewe. When asked about his first visit to the factory of the Spanish brand, he is not shy to show his excitement. “It just made me fall in love,” he says. “I liked that Loewe was not so popular at that moment; it was like a hidden gem that just needed to be cleaned up. When you get there, there’s nothing more exciting than to see people make something in front of you. You have to feel astonished when you witness the craftsman taking a sheet of black leather and transforming it into a three-dimensional object. I think that the ultimate luxury is craft and a human being able to make something. I just thought, this company has been going since 1846 and it has all this knowledge, so imagine if we put more energy in, what the outcome could be…”
Photography: The Bardos

It was exactly this transfusion of freshness, quirkiness, and capacity to produce “wow” moments on the runway while being faithful to craftsmanship that has become the signature style of Anderson during his tenure at Loewe. For his most recent winter collection, currently in stores, Anderson has designed showstopping pieces that cause fashion directors around the world to marvel, as well as a new clientele now encouraged by his fresh aesthetics. “I think that in the beginning, our very historical customers were confused with what I was doing, and it took a little bit of time for us to reassure them. After we changed the logo and restructured the factory, once people saw the end product, the opinions started to change quite quickly,” he comments.
Photography: The Bardos

“This season was all about exploring volume and the idea of clothing as jewelry. There’s lots of beading with a dégradé effect. Some of the looks are styled with sneakers. I like grounding something like a frock coat with utilitarian accessories. We have also designed a leather bag based on Japanese basketry. My favorite looks are the ones where we have collaborated with Takuro Kuwata, as I collect his work. The pieces he has made for Loewe look like leather but in fact they are porcelain.”
The New Loewe Store in The Dubai Mall

The good news for the Middle East clientele is that Loewe has just revamped one boutique and opened another one at The Dubai Mall, with an extended offering for men and women. It is planning to further expand its presence in the region with a new store in Kuwait.
Photography: The Bardos

But these are much more than regular flagships, as the retail floor appears like a mix of a place where you can naturally buy clothes and some home accessories, but also enjoy a beautiful space curated with one-of-a-kind art that reflects this idea that Loewe is a full lifestyle.
Photography: The Bardos

“I think that today, consumers shop differently because we want more from brands. There has to be authenticity. And for me, the store is the most personal thing,” justifies the designer. “I want to find things that you don’t see in other stores. I want to see a beautiful painting with a shoe and a bag. It’s a fun exercise to compile all these pieces and it is something I work pretty hard on. Just choosing the ceramics for the store is a big process, and I wouldn’t pick anything I would not have in my own home.”
Photography: The Bardos

On the topic of authenticity, it is quite remarkable to witness how an Irish designer has the capacity to successfully reshape the most Spanish of Spanish brands, without falling into bullfighting or flamenco dancer clichés. For Anderson, who just spent his last holiday in the country, this is a reflection of a healthy use of the rich archive of Loewe, without allowing it to fully dictate his design, and the discovery at his own pace of the Iberian country.
Photography: The Bardos

“I grew up a lot in Ibiza, and I began to know more about the country when we started to shoot the look books in different parts of Spain,” explains the artistic director, who now collects 18th century Spanish ceramics. “For me, it’s an evolution, to take it bit by bit, and being slowly inspired without forcing anything in my creative process.” For a brand that is so keen on made-by-hand, it is fair to say that Loewe couldn’t be in better ones.
Photography Assistant: Loc Boyle

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