Jimmy Choo

LONDON — It’s a Jimmy Choo Christmas.
The luxury accessories brand’s creative director Sandra Choi has unveiled her Christmas tree design for London’s Claridge’s hotel in Mayfair.

The brightest and most animated in the hotel’s history, the tree is a minimal geometric shape lit by white lights with a double-knotted neon pink bow.

“The bow as a symbol of bringing things together and this united ceremony is what I wanted to portray,” Choi told WWD on the morning of the tree’s big unveiling.

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“The tree itself was a symbol to the core of our brand because what does Jimmy Choo mean? Glamour always comes like a boomerang,” she added. Glamour is a running motif in the brand’s winter 2022 campaign shot at the famous hotel, starring Iris Law, Mica Argaňaraz and Stan Taylor, photographed by Angelo Pennetta.

The tree has been given the name of The Diamond.

The tree has been given the name of The Diamond, a nod to the brand’s regalia-like accessories. The designer wanted to translate the allure of Jimmy Choo’s through light in collaboration with set designer Simon Costin who worked on the tree that stands more than five meters tall and took more than 350 hours to construct. 

“We chatted and we dissected what it means to use light as a whole idea into the future. It’s about stepping inside the jaw, which I talk about often. Claridge’s is a place of heritage, it’s iconic and for us at Jimmy Choo, we needed to bring that glamour that Claridge’s has,” Choi said.

Simplicity and upcycling were at the forefront of Choi and Costin’s ideation when they met to plan the project. 

“We produce a lot of stuff and Christmas is one of those times where you’re overloaded with things to bring the festivities alive, but we wanted to minimize the stuff element and have the ability to upcycle certain parts of the tree. We haven’t got there yet, but it’s something we discussed last night. What do we do with the materials and what do they mean to us?” said Choi, who will be hosting a cocktail party at the hotel on Wednesday evening to celebrate the tree commission.

Sandra Choi outside Claridge’s hotel in London.

Courtesy of Jimmy Choo

Christmas for Choi is all about treating others. Her most memorable memory of the holiday is from 2019 when her family took a trip to Lapland in Finland, she said.

“We packed our bags, went to the cold and had a white Christmas. It was incredibly magical because it’s not about stuff, but rather just being together,” said Choi, who will be celebrating Christmas with her sister in Wales this year.

“I have volunteered my sister to treat me,” she said, jokingly.

Choi has already started forward planning for 2023, and hinted at a mentoring program in the works. 

“I’m really into seeing what the new generation is looking at. I’ve got teams of people I work with and I always chat to them about what they see and how they feel. I’ve been in this brand for so long, I’ve seen it all, but to actually see it from another lens is very important,” she said.

Choi hinted at another project set for spring 2023 that she describes as a “nostalgic childhood project that is really artful, creative and feminine at the same time.”

KENDALL AND JIMMY: Jimmy Choo is putting their best foot forward.
The luxury accessories brand has just unveiled Kendall Jenner as the campaign face for its “Time to Dare” series for fall 2022.

Jenner was photographed by Carlijn Jacobs in Los Angeles by a villa backdrop with a pool and palm trees. Jacobs is known for working with the likes of M le Monde, Chanel, Berluti and more.

Jenner wears the brand’s quilted leather shoulder bag, Varenne Avenue Quad and knee-high boots, the Dreece and Blake, in shades of candy pink, black and gold.

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This is Jenner’s debut campaign with the brand; previously she has been the face of Calvin Klein, Stuart Weitzman, Longchamp and more.

In 2021, the model launched her tequila company named, 818, marking her first solo business venture. 

“For almost four years, I’ve been on a journey to create the best tasting tequila,” Jenner revealed to her 255 million followers on Instagram.

Jenner wears the brand’s quilted leather shoulder bag, Varenne Avenue Quad and knee-high boots, the Dreece and Blake in shades of candy pink, black and gold throughout the campaign.

Courtesy of Jimmy Choo

“After dozens of blind taste tests, trips to our distillery, entering into world tasting competitions anonymously and WINNING (🥳), 3.5 years later I think we’ve done it! This is all we’ve been drinking for the last year and I can’t wait for everyone else to get their hands on this to enjoy it as much as we do!”

Leading up the business side of the brand, Jenner has hired Mike Novy as president and chief operating officer of 818. He previously held positions at Tequila Casa Dragones and Constellation Brands, where he worked for 13 years in sales.

Jenner will return for the second series of her family reality TV show on Hulu, “The Kardashians,” on Sept. 22. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

BIG SWEATER: Fashion designer Matty Bovan, who took home last year’s Woolmark Prize, is the latest artist to take over the Now Gallery in London’s Greenwich Peninsula to present his art installation Ribbons.

From Nov. 30 to Feb. 20, 2023, the gallery space will be filled with a ceiling-height hand-knitted sweater that invites visitors to explore the colorful tent-like structure and watch the experimental film “Ribbons,” which documented how Bovan created the giant piece of knitwear.

Matty Bovan at the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion show.

Dave Benett/Getty Images

The space will also have a special soundscape and be filled with scents of geranium and lavender.

The commission aims to “reexamine their views on fashion, art, textiles and craft while encouraging them to dream and get lost in the weird and wonderful world of Matty Bovan,” the gallery said.

Bovan said “Ribbons” explores “a more intimate and special place” in his world.

“My grandma taught me to knit at age 11, and I have never looked back. Passing down skills and exciting people about craft is a central focus of my work,” the designer from Yorkshire said.

“Ribbon is usually used as a trim or flourish in fashion and craft; here I am taking the idea of a small-scale, somewhat apologetic trim, and blowing it up with full brute force of energy and hardcore craft. There will also be a chance for people to get involved with interactive show elements, which illustrate the importance — and fun — of crafting and making things yourself,” he added.

Jemima Burrill, curator at Now Gallery, recalled how Bovan excited her when she was watching his online presentation during the lockdown.

“The film he created was nothing like anything I had seen before. It struck a nerve and made fashion exciting again even at the bleakest hour. He had to be the next Now Fashion Commission, whatever he came up with would rupture our space and make us think about clothes, life and who we are — in a different way,” she said.

Previous artists who have shown at Now Gallery include Yinka Ilori, Manjit Thapp, Joy Yamusangie, Nicholas Daley, Mowalola, Phoebe English, Molly Goddard and Lydia Chan, who last year transformed the curved facade of the art space into a futuristic fantasy world through an array of vivid colors, augmented reality interactive component and alien-shaped creatures. — TIANWEI ZHANG

HER TURN: “Transcending lingerie” is how Ingrid Guttormsen described her approach to CDLP’s first women’s products.

The Stockholm-based maker of “sustainable luxury essentials” for men is launching its first women’s essentials collection on Sept. 21, an exclusive with Net-a-porter, in addition to its own e-store.

CDLP’s new range for women includes T-shirts and briefs.

Courtesy of CDLP

“The line was developed with both a consideration of how the product feels on skin, but also how it compliments the outer layers,” explained Guttormsen, design director at CDLP. “While designs are functional, there are delicate details, which creates an interesting connection between under and outerwear. Structures are strong; materials are soft.”

A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Guttormsen has designed for Alexander Wang, MM6 Maison Margiela and Jeremy Scott earlier in her career.

The succinct debut collection spans thongs, briefs, bralettes, a T-shirt and tank top in either black or white. The main fabric employed is Tencel, made from renewable wood sources and prized for its softness, breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities.

Details include herringbone trims, tonal debossed logos, adjustable two-way straps and custom silver hardware.

Founded in 2016 by film director and photographer Christian Larson and entrepreneur Andreas Palm, CDLP has so far specialized in men’s underwear, T-shirts, socks, as well as items to wear by the pool, at home and for sports.

Investors in the brand, which is an abbreviation of the phrase “un cadeau de la providence,” include Matchesfashion founder Tom Chapman and Swedish American entrepreneur Cristina Stenbeck.

“We started to see a women’s customer emerge naturally,” Larsen said, explaining that its fits and silhouettes are “universal. Therefore, to go backward and develop underwear essentials for this customer group was an organic yet thoughtful progression.” — MILES SOCHA

CAPTURING THE MOMENT: Yohji Yamamoto is marking the 50th anniversary of his first brand Y’s by revisiting fashion moments by British photographer Max Vadukul, who has been shooting for the Japanese designer since the ’80s.

Eight images, some assembled into collages, will appear on a capsule collection of clothing and accessories, including T-shirts, to be released in November. However, four of them will be pre-sold exclusively at the Y’s store on Ometesando in Tokyo from Friday.

The images derive from six collections done between 1999 and 2002, and Vadukul and creative director Claudio Dell’Olio reworked them so they would look cool on clothes.

Yamamoto’s art director Marc Ascoli conscripted Vadukul even before he had an agent, with his first assignment capturing Y’s fall 1984 collection out on the streets of New York. Prized for his reportage and portraits, Vadukul would later become a staff photographer at The New Yorker. He has also shot for a host of fashion and culture magazines, including French Vogue, Italian Vogue, Interview, Rolling Stone, Esquire, Egoiste and Town & Country.

According to Y’s, the exercise proves the timelessness and everyday nature of Yamamoto’s designs: “Spontaneous images of people’s lives, where Y’s clothes just exist alongside them.” — M.S.

A look from the Y’s capsule collection made from archive images.
NEW JOB: R13, the New York-based denim firm, has named Lily Gunn Townsend president.

Most recently, she was with Michael Kors as vice president of Collection ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear. She was at Kors for 17 years.

Lily Gunn Townsend

Amy Drucker

At R13, she reports to Chris Leba, chief executive officer and creative director.

Gunn will oversee global wholesale, retail, manufacturing, and product development for R13 and Denimist.

“I am so excited to work with a visionary like Chris and support the R13 and Denimist teams in this time of evolution and global growth,” said Gunn.

Leba founded R13 in New York City in 2009 with a premium denim focus, and the brand has since expanded to elevated ready-to-wear and footwear. The well-established brand has become a staple to the ever-growing grunge movement with its edgy take on denim and sportswear.

“Our design formula has always been this yin and yang — of familiarness and the idea of saying, ‘I know what that is, but I’ve never seen it like that before’ — that’s my personal language,” Leba told WWD in June while showing resort. — LISA LOCKWOOD

Jennifer Lopez stunned in a white dress as she attended a special screening of her latest movie, “Marry Me,” on Tuesday night in Los Angeles, alongside boyfriend Ben Affleck.
The actress wore a long-sleeve, mini lace white dress by Giambattista Valli paired with Jimmy Choo pumps and a floral clutch by Dolce & Gabbana. She styled her hair down in loose waves and kept her makeup mostly neutral with a dark smokey eye. She was styled by her longtime stylists, Rob Zangardi and Mariel Haenn.
Affleck kept it simple, wearing a dark gray suit with leather dress shoes under a black coat.

Jennifer Lopez at the “Marry Me” screening held at the DGA Theater on Feb. 8, 2022 in Los Angeles.
Christopher Polk for Variety

“Marry Me” is about a famous Latin pop star Kat Valdez (played by Lopez) who decides to marry a complete stranger holding a “Marry Me” sign by accident at her live concert shortly after she discovers her on-stage partner was having an affair. The film also stars Owen Wilson and Maluma.

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The movie premieres in theaters and begins streaming on Peacock on Friday.
Lopez and Affleck rekindled their relationship last April, shortly after Lopez ended her engagement to former MLB star Alex Rodriguez. The couple caused a social media frenzy when they made their official red carpet debut during the Venice Film Festival last September. Prior to that, they kept their relationship relatively private.
The two were originally together from 2002 to 2004 and were one of the buzziest couples of the early Aughts era, with tabloids referring to them as “Bennifer.” They were engaged in 2002 and had a wedding date set for September 2003, but it was ultimately postponed due to high media attention. In January 2004, the two called off the engagement.
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Capri Holdings Ltd.’s recovery cheered Wall Street during Thursday’s early morning hours after the retailer revealed better-than-expected quarterly earnings. 
The fashion group — parent company to the Michael Kors, Versace and Jimmy Choo brands — beat quarterly sales estimates and increased profits. Company shares rose more than 7 percent during Thursday’s session as a result.
“Our performance demonstrates the power and desirability of the Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors brands,” John D. Idol, Capri’s chairman and chief executive officer, said in a statement. “Through creativity and innovation, our luxury houses inspire excitement and passion, creating an emotional connection with our consumers. We are also attracting new consumers to each of our luxury houses as evidenced by the double-digit increase in our consumer databases.”

Total company revenues for the three-month period ending Sept. 26 declined 23 percent to $1.1 billion, down from $1.4 billion the same time last year. But Capri still managed to widen its profits to $121 million, compared with $73 million a year ago. A noticeable improvement from a company that lost a combined $731 million in the last two quarters. 
In the most recent quarter, Michael Kors, Capri’s largest business, had top-line sales of $793 million, down from more than $1 billion a year ago. The brand pulled in a profit of $190 million, down from $222 million last year. Versace, which the company bought in December 2018, had revenues of $195 million, compared with $228 million a year ago. Profits were $20 million, up from just $9 million last year. At Jimmy Choo, revenues were $122 million, compared with $125 million last year. The luxury footwear brand managed to break even, compared with a loss of $10 million a year ago. 

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While things like travel retail may be on the decline for the foreseeable future, Idol told analysts on Thursday morning’s conference call that luxury is making a comeback. 
“Consumers are spending at higher rates on luxury products as there has been reduced spending on experiences due to travel restrictions,” Idol said.
“Luxury is enduring, as it creates an emotional connection with consumers, inspiring excitement and passion in those who value design, innovation, as well as exceptional quality,” he continued. “The industry has proven resilient with sales, historically recovering rapidly following economic downturns and global health crises.”
By category, Versace showed strength in men’s wear and fashion athletic footwear, along with the Barocco V pattern, while Jimmy Choo sold out of its $5,500 Jimmy Choo x Timberland Swarovski crystal-studded boots almost immediately. The company expects the brands’ revenues to grow to $1 billion and $500 million, respectively, over the next several years.
At Michael Kors, large handbags and footwear, in addition to men’s accessories and outerwear, performed well during the quarter. 
“It’s really nice to see big backpacks selling again,” Idol said. “We see the greatest softness in women’s ready-to-wear and men’s ready-to-wear and that’s really across the group.”
Meanwhile, total company e-commerce sales increased 60 percent during the quarter, year-over-year. Other bright spots included positive sales in Mainland China during the last three months. (Idol said the fastest recovery is happening in Asia.)

“We continue to see opportunity in [Capri] and expect upward revisions on already inexpensive valuation to prove compelling,” Simeon Siegel, managing director and senior retail analyst at BMO Capital Markets, wrote in a note. “Notably, the Americas sales for Versace and Jimmy Choo were both up [year-over-year] as we continue to expect high-end consumers to help luxury spending in the absence of travel. Additionally, management highlighted positive global retail sales at Versace. We expect revenue to continue its improving trajectory.”
The company ended the quarter with $1.5 billion in long-term debt and $238 million in cash and equivalents. Capri has 1,261 brick-and-mortar units around the globe, including 828 Michael Kors stores, 227 Jimmy Choo stores and 206 Versace stores. Idol said the company plans on reducing its overall store count by closing unprofitable Michael Kors locations.
Capri is not providing forward-looking guidance, but Thomas Edwards, executive vice president, chief financial officer and chief operating officer of Capri, said on the call that the company expects revenues to decline by approximately 30 percent for the year.
“An improvement versus our prior expectations,” Edwards said. 
The fashion group also plans to reduce its exposure to wholesale — from about 30 percent of overall company revenues in 2019 to approximately 20 percent over the next few years — as the company continues to open Versace and Jimmy Choo stores and grow its e-commerce businesses.
“Our feeling is that in North America, digital will represent at a point in time over the next couple of years between 40 percent and 50 percent of the overall revenues for the brands in North America,” Idol said on the call. “[In] Europe, we don’t see that type of trajectory. We see something that will probably get us to a 30 percent level over the next few years. And in Asia, as you know, it’s a much smaller piece of the business today, low single digits. But we do think that that will kind of be in that 10 percent to 15 percent range again, over the next few years.
“The COVID-19 pandemic continues to profoundly impact the entire world,” Idol continued. “As the world continues to emerge from this crisis, we are increasingly optimistic about the outlook for the fashion luxury industry and Capri Holdings. We have an incredible portfolio of luxury houses, each with their rich heritage, exclusive DNA and strong brand loyalty. We are uniquely positioned to drive multiple years of strong growth as we continue to execute on our strategic initiatives.”
Shares of Capri Holdings are down nearly 32 percent year-over-year.