Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2023

Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2023

Gigi and Bella Hadid led the charge in the leggy Isabel Marant show on Thursday night.

There hasn’t been much boho on the runways this season, but Marant can always be counted on to deliver it in one way or another. Spring was no exception, as she sent out swingy tops and fluttery minidresses with macramé details, strappy cutout necklines or open backs that made shoulders an erogenous zone.

Micro minis in leather or allover metallic embroidery put legs in the spotlight, as did barely there “no-shoe” low-heeled sandals.

The designer wanted to pay special attention to craft, she said backstage, hence a super-sexy crochet swimsuit, a cool ropey tunic resembling a piece of fiber art and several open-weave knits.

Per usual, leather dressing was part of the equation, this season with a moto vibe. A snug black moto jacket and short shorts set was great looking, while earth-tone parachute silk cargo jackets, pants and shorts for men and women showed a softer side. The season’s denim had a lower waist and came with slim or baggy legs, balancing out the ethereal tops.

“It’s the contrast of opposites I’ve always loved in the brand,” Marant explained backstage.

It was refreshing to see intricate metallic embroidery on the runways again on the miniskirts, a fringe-y racer-back cropped top and chic bolero vest. These jewels for the body had a vintage feel and a whiff of exoticism. And they will no doubt launch a thousand copies, which is another thing Marant can always be counted on to deliver: cool-girl trend pieces that resonate at all levels of the market.

Bonpoint Unveils New Look in Paris

Bonpoint Unveils New Look in Paris

Bonpoint introduced its new artistic director in Paris on Thursday, along with her first design effort, a fall 2021 collection full of quiet luxury, sophisticated colors and charm.
“I approached it very intuitively,” said Esther Loonen, a Dutch-born creative who has designed for brands including Isabel Marant and Soeur, in addition to her own children’s wear label. “Bonpoint has always been more than just garments. It’s a maison, and it has a proper culture. It represents a Proustian madeleine for all of us.”
Showing off a shearling aviator for boys the color of bitter chocolate, she mentioned that an adult colleague gasped when he saw it, remembering being obsessed with a similar Bonpoint coat as a child — and pining for one still.

Founded in 1975, Bonpoint is billed as the only French couture house dedicated to children’s wear, famous for it Liberty-print Duchesse dresses with smocking details, and for its luxe baby clothes.
While loyal to Bonpoint’s reputation for fancy clothes realized with exceptional savoir faire, Loonen also added some rugged, sporty and urbane designs, including rubber boots in collaboration with Hunter, down puffer vests, flared jeans and plaid trucker jackets for boys and girls.
There are also plenty of designs to make kids feel more grown-up, from classic trenchcoats with removable hoods to tailored jackets in velvet.

Interspersed are quirkier touches, including boys’ looks inspired by filmmaker Wes Anderson’s retro-tinged style to a quilted jacket in metallic lambskin. A girl’s white mohair coat with a fluffy collar was flecked with colorful, hand-embroidered sequins, bringing to mind a funfetti cake.
“Bonpoint has always offered a wardrobe,” Loonen said, leading a visitor through the collection, displayed at its flagship on Rue de Tournon in Paris.
The designer leaned into the brand’s heritage, including its signature “milk white” shade in sets for newborns, adding sweet embroideries to prim collars and resurrecting an archival script logo.

A graduate of Dutch art school ArtEZ University of Arts, Loonen has had a varied career in fashion. In 2007, she launched a luxury children’s wear brand called Lili & the Funky Boys that was sold at stores including Le Bon Marché in Paris. She also operated a namesake design studio in Paris before quietly joining Bonpoint full-time in September. She noted she is also a mother of three children, ages seven to 15.
Bonpoint chief executive officer Pierre-André Cauche, who joined from IKKS Group about a year ago, has been quietly refocusing the business on its core categories. He discontinued its adult line, and recruited Loonen to succeed Anne Valérie Hash, giving her the creative reins of an image campaign emphasizing “fun, elegance and tradition.”
In an interview, Cauche said the business fared well despite the health crisis, with business surging in China, where Bonpoint operates about 24 stores, including three dedicated to perfumes and skin care, a burgeoning part of the business buoyed by the clean beauty movement.
The company plans to open boutiques in Shenzen’s Mixc Mall, Shanghai IFC and Beijing China World this year, while not neglecting its home market of France, where a location in Deauville is slated to open next month.

Bonpoint counts 130 boutiques in the world, and wholesales to about 100 multibrand stores, Cauche said.
The executive is also focused on upgrading Bonpoint’s digital experiences, including a newborn boutique in development that aims to mimic the in-store experience.
Bonpoint has been owned by private investment firm EPI since 2006 and has ramped up its presence in Europe and Asia. EPI’s other properties include J.M. Weston, French bootmaker F. Pinet, the Champagne houses Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck, and the wine makers Biondi-Santi, Château La Verrerie and Tardieu-Laurent.
See also:
Valérie Hermann to Join Parent of Bonpoint, J.M. Weston
Bonpoint Sets Up Children’s Shop in Greenwich, Connecticut

Isabel Marant Apologizes to Mexico for Its Indigenous-Inspired Designs

Isabel Marant Apologizes to Mexico for Its Indigenous-Inspired Designs

Fashion may be facing a reckoning when it comes to cultural borrowing — one that, at the very least, forces credit to be given where is due.
After a call-out for cultural appropriation from Mexico’s secretary of culture Alejandra Frausto Guerrero late last month, designer Isabel Marant has apologized.
In a written response — which Frausto posted Monday to her Twitter account, where she has generated debate over the contested appreciation versus appropriation issue and fashion’s role in it — Marant said the brand has always been “open to the world and oriented toward foreign cultures and traditions. For this reason, it reinterprets the dress codes in order to enhance and highlight the cultural mix.”

That said, though, the brand still sought to beg pardon for its actions.
“If the Maison Isabel Marant and, with it, its creator, have disrespected the Purépecha community and Mexico, to whom you give a voice, they beg you, Madam Minister, and the country you represent, to accept their most sincere apology,” read the letter, undersigned by Marant herself and brand chief executive officer Anouck Duranteau-Loeper. “In the future, we will ensure that our interests coexist and expressly pay tribute to our sources of inspiration by expressing our gratitude to the owners of traditional cultural expressions.”

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Frausto had accused Marant of using “elements of the culture and identity of the people’s and communities of Mexico” in her fall 2020 Étoile Isabel Marant collection, where its Gabin Cape drew on patterns and designs originating from indigenous Mexican communities like the Purépecha of Michoacán.
Marant expressed in her response that she was “enormously” saddened to see that her approach to the designs had been perceived as cultural appropriation when her aim was “to promote a craft and pay tribute to an aesthetic to which it is linked.”
The issue Mexico’s culture secretary has taken with fashion’s actions in drawing on diverse communities and traditions for its designs is that, more often than not, brands fail to engage creator communities and to give back for what they have borrowed or been inspired by.
In the tweet sharing Marant’s letter, Frausto said, “…communities must be at the center of any initiative. We invite international designers to be allies in the defense of the cultural heritage of indigenous peoples, recognizing their value and diversity.”
Going forward, they may. Particularly if tensions over cultural appropriation continue to rise and brands continue to be called to account.
For Marant’s part, the letter closed with a note of commitment to right this error, saying, “We remain at your entire disposal to consider joint actions.”

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