Inclusivity

In the name of inclusivity, Dima Ayad asks regional designers to dress women of all sizes. Will they be up for the challenge?
From left: Lama Jouni, Reema Al Banna, Laura Leonide, Dima Ayad, and Mariam Yeya. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi for Vogue Arabia September 2021Dubai-based womenswear designer Dima Ayad tells a story many can relate to. Traveling abroad to attend a wedding, upon arrival she discovered that her bag had been lost along the way. She headed to the city to pick out a new dress, only to discover that women of all sizes were not all being catered to. Miserable, Ayad returned home, deciding to overlook the wedding altogether.
Dima Ayad and Laura Leonide wearing Dima Ayad. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
“The lack of availability of clothes for an oversized person is frustrating,” Ayad says. “You go to the mall and find just one store that sells oversized clothes. But we each have a style that needs to be catered to.” Even exercise clothes are regularly off-limits. “If an oversized woman wants to exercise, she will not be able to find anything to wear, even something as simple as leggings. Some big brands are working on this, but barely.”
Laura Leonide and Lama Jouni wearing Lama Jouni. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
Ayad is determined to redress the balance and her frustration is fuelling the launch of her new sportswear and leisure brand. Unflinching in her belief that all women deserve to wear exquisitely crafted clothes, she reached out to her peers and friends Reema Al Banna of Reemami, Lama Jouni, and Mariam Yeya of Mrs Keepa to join her on this journey towards inclusivity. While not everyone she approached could get involved, the ones who did, did so with gusto. “It’s not that designers are not keen, it’s all supply and demand,” remarks Egyptian-French designer Mariam Yeya of Mrs Keepa, a longtime friend of Ayad’s. “We launched a collection and we don’t provide size; most of the collection is on a preorder basis. People are free to order what they want. The biggest one I have received is a size 44. I don’t think that the designer should be blamed for not being inclusive, it’s also down to the buyers from big department stores. Most often they choose the sizes and collection and they rarely ask for bigger sizes.”
Laura Leonide wearing Lama Jouni. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
Ayad explains, “I asked Mariam to be part of this journey with me, because she shares the same values in the fashion space as I do but also because when you see Mrs Keepa’s design aesthetic, you wouldn’t imagine it suiting larger-sized women.” Yeya agrees, “The brand’s aesthetics are very eclectic, avant garde, and with big silhouettes. I always say that there’s a thin line between something looking good on and it making the person look funny. I don’t do big sizes, not because I don’t want to include every shape, but because the brand DNA won’t look flattering. I go all out with my creativity, with print, drapery, and asymmetry, and everything has to fit properly.”
Laura Leonide and Mariam Yeya wearing Mrs Keepa. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
Not unlike Mrs Keepa, at first glance, Lama Jouni may come across as a strange choice for this collaboration, since she’s known for her formfitting pieces. Jouni’s clients are often photographed flaunting muscle definition through her peek-a-boo clothes. “Body confidence with your curves is the right thing to do,” affirms Ayad. “I think it’s time that we show that anyone can wear Lama Jouni.” The Lebanese designer concurs. “I always admire women who know what they want and work toward that goal. I like to work with people who challenge me. Dima is one designer who inspires me so much.” Accustomed to creating for an athletically honed clientele, Jouni confesses that dressing larger silhouettes was a challenge. “I’m not shy to admit that my knowledge isn’t that strong when it comes to larger sizes. It was a great introduction to start thinking of women of all sizes, especially when my strength is in creating essential wear,” she says. Jouni’s piece is entirely her style. Designed for Ayad’s body, it’s form-fitted, a touch revealing in the right places, and incredibly flattering. The positioning of the straps is perhaps the only giveaway that this piece represents a departure from the norm. Vogue Arabia Fashion Prize winner Reema Al Banna, the designer behind Reemami, was particularly taken with the idea of creating a unique blazer featuring her signature prints. The jacket features a shoulder cut-out with trims along the sleeves; something that’s become a hallmark of Al Banna’s work. Tailored pants complete the look. The suit is a Reemami classic, but for a fuller frame, and it works perfectly.
Laura Leonide and Reema Al Banna wearing Reemami. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
“Dressing Dima is amazing, as she embodies strength, confidence, and femininity,” says Al Banna. “I love and support the noise she’s creating around embracing and supporting all body types, which is also ingrained in Reemami.” Observing her flowing dress with white and green teardrop shapes that accentuate the form, designer Yeya proclaims, “I don’t believe in inclusive design. I believe that – individually – we all have different body types and the DNA of Mrs Keepa caters to that.” Ayad hopes that this coming together of some of the most talented designers in the Middle East will challenge conventions and assumptions, while also turning heads. The fashion industry has always catered to an ideal – and one that few women ever reach. Ayad and her collaborators are already thinking about dressing women of all sizes. The aim is that the pieces that emerge from this blending of talent will inspire others to continue to change how and for whom they design, offering all women an opportunity to dress themselves in a manner that reflects both body and spirit.
Laura Leonide wearing Reemami. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
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Originally published in the September 2021 issue of Vogue Arabia
Style: Amine JreissatiHair: Natalie CropperMakeup: Bethany Lea PentelowMakeup assistant: Kerris CharlesProduction: Ankita Chandra

HA: Another key point is opportunity for all. What does that look like at Tommy Hilfiger?
TH: We want to become a more informed organization that creates a strong sense of belonging. From designer to factory worker, everyone in our business deserves to feel valued, supported, and have their voice heard. There are a few internal programs being developed to support this, which I hope we can share soon!
HA: Recently, Tommy Hilfiger launched the People’s Place Program to advance the representation of black, indigenous, and people of color (BIPOC) communities within the fashion and creative industries. Can you share a bit about that?
TH: At 18, I created the original People’s Place as a dedicated space for people from all walks of life to come together to enjoy art, music, fashion, and pop culture. Shaped by the cultural revolution of the 1960s, the original store fostered an exchange of ideas, encouraged authentic self-expression, and challenged social norms. It is in this spirit that the People’s Place Program has been founded, with the aim to advance the representation of BIPOC within the fashion and creative industries. To achieve this, we will be annually committing a minimum of US $5 million for the next three years and focusing on partnerships, career access, and industry leadership that advance this mission.
The Original People’s Place, launched by Tommy Hilfiger when he was 18

HA: You’ve been outspoken in your support of the Black Lives Matter movement. Can you share some of the changes you’ve made within the company with regards to that?
TH: So many steps have already been taken to create more opportunities and platforms for all associates to listen and be heard. We have also rolled out mandatory “unconscious bias” training to all associates, provided resources to develop a deeper understanding of systemic racism, and launched an educational event series on racial justice. But there is always more to be done, and we won’t stop until our organization, and our industry, is truly open, inclusive, and equal.
Aden at the Tommy Hilfiger x Zendaya show at Paris Fashion Week, 2019

HA: One of the things I most admire about you is your commitment to helping the world’s most vulnerable children, as the mission resonates so personally with me. I was thrilled to attend and see you recognized and honored at the Save the Children event last year. Can you share what your hope is and how you continue to work to provide opportunities to our future leaders?
TH: Since I received such incredible advice early on in my career, I have stayed passionate about mentoring future fashion designers and industry leaders. We have a responsibility to use our platform to advance upcoming talent across all creative mediums. And by building partnerships, we are providing the next generation of leaders with resources, advice, connections, and support.
HA: One of the highlights of my career was wearing a custom Tommy Hilfiger burkini in the pages of Sports Illustrated Swim. What does it mean to you to be highlighting a piece that is geared towards not only Muslim women, but modest dressing women in general?

TH: It was such an honor to work with you and Sports Illustrated on this statement-making moment. When I began designing at 18, my philosophy was to start with the consumer: how they wanted to dress, what they thought was cool, what they needed. This approach is even more important today so we can keep expanding our understanding of what makes beautiful, classic, exciting fashion that is accessible to and inclusive of everyone.
HA: Any final thoughts or a message you would like to share with all of your fans in the Middle East?
TH: I have always admired the elegance of Middle Eastern fashion. I love to see the unique twist our fans across the region put on our collections. It really inspires me to experiment with new approaches.
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Originally published in the December 2020 Issue of Vogue Arabia