Hedi Slimane

EXCLUSIVE: Celine Is Getting a Big Jump on Fall 2023

EXCLUSIVE: Celine Is Getting a Big Jump on Fall 2023

Hedi Slimane is a tad late unveiling Celine’s spring 2023 collection, but he will be early — way early — with the one he’s designing for the following season.
WWD has learned that Slimane and Celine are plotting a fashion show in Los Angeles, California, on Dec. 8 to unveil the fall 2023 collection — more than two months before fashion weeks for that season kick off in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

Meanwhile, the spring 2023 collection will be showcased as a film, to be streamed on Celine’s website and social platforms sometime during November — more than a month after Paris Fashion Week wrapped nearly a month of spring 2023 showings.

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Celine’s spring 2023 collection was filmed on models in the south of France, but the precise timing and other details are still under wraps.

Likewise, Celine did not disclose an exact location for the Los Angeles runway event.

California has become a hot spot for destination shows, with Ralph Lauren, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent among brands that have mounted runway displays there in recent years.

Celine’s fall showing joins a smattering of itinerant runway events in early December, with Dior unveiling its pre-fall menswear in Egypt on Dec. 3 and Chanel its latest Métiers d’Art collection in Senegal.

A resident of Los Angeles throughout most of his years helming Saint Laurent, Slimane staged a big fashion show for that brand at The Hollywood Palladium in 2016.

He joined Celine as its creative and image director in 2019, leading the brand into menswear, fragrances, beachwear, made-to-order crocodile handbags — and even pet accessories.

He’s also made off-calendar timings for collection unveilings a feature of his Celine, which recently has been going from strength to strength.

Revealing its third-quarter sales results last month, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said revenues grew 24 percent in its fashion and leather goods division, and trumpeted very strong growth at Celine.

Slimane’s obsession with L.A. subculture and the cool kids in the indie rock scene preceded his arrival at Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, and stretch back to his influential stint as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007.

“I arrived in California in 2008, and I was already very attracted to Los Angeles, where I frequently went since the end of the 1990s,” he told French newspaper Le Figaro in 2018. “I would start all my Dior collections there, in my hotel room. The city was still asleep, so it was the perfect time to fill in a blank page. There was no creative or artistic stimulation yet, nor was there an emergence of a strong music scene.…[Los Angeles] has changed today. It’s been taken over and the authenticity is slowly getting lost because the megalopolis appeals to the world and the youth. Los Angeles is an open-air construction site and its mythical places are disappearing day by day.”

Celine RTW Fall 2022

Celine RTW Fall 2022

Squeaking in with his fall 2022 collection film for Celine two months after Paris Fashion Week and just before the destination cruise shows kick off in earnest, Hedi Slimane was in fine form.
By now his formula is familiar — spectacular settings in France, a hypnotic-bordering-on-annoying soundtrack, a few exits worn by house ambassador Lalisa Manobal, all slickly produced — but it suits his to-the-point fashions, eminently wearable and nonchalant yet elegant.
Almost every model sported black sunglasses, wash-and-go hair and a chain-handled handbag, the most striking in octagonal shapes. Handsomely tailored coats and blazers were underpinned by black turtlenecks accented with a short gold chain, while sharp-heeled boots finished off boyish jeans.

Slimane is steadily making Celine a go-to house for terrific jeans and now cool leather pants, too, all finished off with sharp-heeled boots. The designer mashed up countrified checks and tweeds with shimmering dresses, urban leathers and skirts in a way that seems completely plausible.

His leather blousons, snap-front shirt jackets, peacoats, cardigan-like shearlings and strapless minidresses are hardly revolutionary, but they are also appealing, luxuriously realized and slyly cool. Apart from a logo windbreaker and a cocoon-shaped gray hoodie-cum-cape, Slimane eased up on logos and streetwear shapes in favor of crystal-pavéd evening dresses, sparkly cardigans and draped, scarf-like tops.

The clean lines of the clothes were a foil to the lavish settings: the gilded 18th-century “Salons d’Apparat” at the Hôtel de la Marine on the Place de la Concorde, which reopened last year after a long renovation. Slimane’s press notes, which make no mention of the clothes, detailed the architectural features of this historic building, those salons “originally used to present the royal collections to French and foreign visitors.”
Interspersed were scenes captured at the Hôtel National des Invalides, and a minimalist black pavilion plunked at the foot of its gilded Dome where Napoleon is entombed. Slimane has staged physical shows there in a similar black tent, so let’s hope it’s a teaser that Celine will be back on the official calendar soon.

Celine Launches Made-to-Order Crocodile Leather Handbag Line

Celine Launches Made-to-Order Crocodile Leather Handbag Line

PARIS — Celine is launching a line of made-to-order crocodile leather handbags, joining the ranks of luxury leather goods makers that are developing increasingly exclusive and rarefied products to cater to well-heeled consumers.The Celine haute maroquinerie collection, available beginning in October, will offer its bestselling 16 and Triomphe handbag models in Nile crocodile leather, which comes in 14 shades, including a dusty pink known as Marly and a rich chestnut hue called Riesener. Recognizable for its large scales, the exotic leather has been glazed to a high sheen with an agate stone.
Customers can pick from an assortment of hardware in 18-karat white or yellow gold, including closures that can be customized with diamonds, either in pavé or solitaire settings. In the ultimate example of stealth wealth, the Triomphe closure is offered with a solitaire on the concealed part of the clasp. Initials can be embossed into the goat skin lining.

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A selection of hardware for Celine’s haute maroquinerie collection.
Courtesy of Celine

The house declined to disclose the price of the handbags, cementing their aura as status items for ultra-high-net-worth individuals.
The numbered bags will be produced by a dedicated artisan at Celine’s Italian leather goods workshop in Radda in Chianti in Tuscany, which overlooks rolling hills and vineyards. The artisan is responsible for the bag’s entire assembly, from the selection of skin to cutting and stitching.
“Each bag is created as a single piece. Leather cutting only occurs once an order has been placed,” the house said in a statement. Each custom-made 16 handbag takes 17 hours to produce, while the Triomphe requires 12 hours of labor.
Artistic director Hedi Slimane has been steadily growing the brand’s high-end offering, even as he courts the TikTok generation with buzzy collection films and $435 cropped tops. In February, he unveiled an ad campaign featuring Blackpink’s Lisa for his haute parfumerie collection, launched in 2019.
And the designer has sprinkled made-to-measure designs, often produced in collaboration with artists, into his ready-to-wear collections.
The 16 was his first design after joining Celine in 2018, and was famously unveiled on the arm of Lady Gaga, making her the first celebrity to wear Slimane’s designs for the brand. The flap on the made-to-order version has a crocodile underside, considered a technical feat because the leather is both delicate and stiff.

The 16 handbag in Nile crocodile leather from Celine’s haute maroquinerie collection.
Courtesy of Celine

Each haute maroquinerie bag comes with a mirror bordered in matching leather, and is delivered in a leather-line lacquered eucalyptus wood coffer, with a plaque that can be engraved with the owner’s name.
Parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has been doubling down on exotic skins, despite protests from animal rights campaigners, who want the luxury conglomerate to follow the example of Chanel, which said in 2018 it was halting the use of leathers including crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray.
Louis Vuitton recently inaugurated two leather goods workshops in France that specialize in bags made from exotic skins, while the renovated Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne has an entire counter dedicated to bags made from rare materials such as crocodile, ostrich and python leather.

Celine said the skins for its haute maroquinerie collection have been sourced from a supplier certified by the International Crocodilian Farmers Association, a nonprofit association created to develop and improve crocodilian farming practices with respect for animal welfare, the environment, people and local communities.
They are treated by a tannery associated with the IFCA that is certified ISO 14001, an industry recognized standard based on environmental management compliance.
SEE ALSO:
Louis Vuitton Doubles Down on Exotic Skins With New Workshops
Celine Unveils New Manufacturing Plant
Meet the Bag That Is Launching Hedi Slimane’s Celine Reboot

Celine Women’s Spring 2022

Celine Women’s Spring 2022

Hedi Slimane gets the last word on the spring 2022 season with his brisk fashion film for Celine, which could also double as a terrific tourism campaign for the French resort city of Nice.
The idyllic footage is enough to make you want to don a straw boater, a cardigan-style jacket and mom jeans to stroll the Promenade des Anglais, the sunshine glinting off your handbag chain and a breeze ruffling your loose tresses.
Slimane is a brilliant image maker, opening his 12-minute, rapid-cut film with a Celine-branded cruise ship steaming toward the Baie des Anges, its famed Hotel Negresco also bearing the name of the French fashion house, and closing with a lighthouse flickering to life amid a blazing sunset.

Amid all the historically important architecture, meticulously described in the press notes, and with the seafront as a backdrop came a parade of perfectly styled outfits, a calculated mash-up of bourgeois tailoring and varsity casualness — with a soupçon of streetwear cool.

Slimane dialed back the branding to the most laid-back pieces in the collection — bomber jackets, oversized hoodies and ball caps — and ramped up the use of shine via sequins and metallic leather, giving the collection a more glamorous allure. There were even a few ruffles.

While many of the pieces are familiar wardrobe staples — trenchcoats, pussy-bow blouses, fluffy sweaters, LBDs and mannish striped shirts — Slimane has a knack for idealizing them via the right combinations and styling tricks. Low-slung trousers came with kitten heels, while leggy looks ended with platform high-tops.
Interspersed with models strolling on the beach or the perimeter of an observatory were preening shots of two Celine muses: the model Kaia Gerber and the Thai music sensation Lalisa Manobal of Blackpink, whose role as a Celine brand ambassador was recently expanded to include its Haute Parfumerie collection.
It all fed a straightforward theme of summer on the Riviera, with a fresh, young spirit.
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