Fine Jewelry

Spirit Collection GFantasy necklace in white gold, yellow gold, and diamonds, Spirit Collection Fantasy bracelet in white gold, yellow gold, and diamonds, Spirit Collection Fantasy ring in yellow gold and yellow diamonds, dress, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
Louis Vuitton recently celebrated its commitment to making dreams come true with a bespoke exhibition at the new Atlantis The Royal in Dubai. Named Crafting Dreams, the exhibition was an opportunity to create a dream world for clients across different rooms and experiences. The exhibition included a bespoke high jewelry space featuring Louis Vuitton’s finest and most thoughtful pieces.
Spirit Collection Destiny necklace in yellow gold, platinum, rubies, and diamonds, Spirit Collection Fantasy Ring in yellow gold and yellow diamonds, blazer, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
The Louis Vuitton Spirit Chapter II collection entices the dreams of women everywhere via mesmerizing and illuminating designs. The fourth high jewelry collection designed by artistic director Francesca Amfitheatrof, it is is the successor to the maison’s Spirit collection revealed last year. It continues the late Vuitton’s odyssey into the next chapter with 30 unique pieces, which harmonize across four universes that reflect the maison’s values: Liberty, Destiny, Fantasy, and Radiance.
Liberty Necklace in white gold, platinum, emerald, and diamonds, top, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
Inspired by Vuitton’s sense of freedom, the Liberty theme explores the brand’s independence through seven bold creations. Each intricate piece is crafted around custom-cut and LV Monogram cut diamonds, remaining unmistakable. A token of liberation, it sits like a coat of armor, and houses more than 195 custom-cut diamonds, each interlocking to create a bespoke pattern across the décolletage. The white gold and platinum necklace is adorned with a 4.84ct Colombian emerald and a 2.02ct Monogram flower-cut diamond.
Le Mythe Watch in white gold and diamonds, Saturne Ring in white gold, sapphires, and diamonds, Bravery Tumbler necklace in white gold, tanzanite, and diamonds, Tumbler Earrings in white gold, tanzanites, and diamonds, dress, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
The Louis Vuitton V symbolizes the iconic Maison and its legacy; which inspires the Destiny theme with 10 bold yet delicate feminine designs. The pieces also serve as an ode to the ruby, which emits a luminous and mesmerizing power, representing the destiny of Louis Vuitton. The LV Monogram star-cut diamond in this breathtaking necklace features a 3.13ct pear-cut ruby alongside 34 additional rubies suspended from the piece. Lined in an assemblage of repeated V’s interlocking one another, this necklace is an emblem of the brand and its exquisite design.
Spirit Collection Radiance necklace in yellow gold, platinum, Mandarin spessartite garnet and diamonds, Spirit Collection Radiance bracelet (right) in yellow gold, platinum, Mandarin spessartite garnet and diamonds, Spirit Collection Destiny bracelet (left) in yellow gold, platinum, ruby, diamonds, Spirit Collection Radiance earrings in yellow gold, Mandarin spessartite garnets, and diamonds, top, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
The dream-crafting continues within the Fantasy theme, embodying the maison’s imagination and creative vision that continues to break the boundaries of reality. The Fantasy two-strand necklace entwines geometric V designs and chevrons in a high-shine white gold. Adorned with two LV Monogram star-cut diamonds, the necklace boasts diversity and can be worn in numerous ways. The closing theme of the Spirit Chapter II Collection is described as Radiance. Inspired by Amfitheatrof’s imagination of jewelry as armor, this theme highlights women’s audacious energy. The radiance necklace is courageous with solid and bold graphic design, while mirrored yellow-gold takes form with a geometry of pyramids, triangles, and diamond-paved V’s, and a 17.48ct Mandarin Garnet.
Destiny necklace in platinum, yellow gold, white gold, rubies, and diamonds, jacket, Louis Vuitton. Photo: Philipp Jelenska
Style: Ahmed Rashwan Hair: Betty Bee Makeup: Ania Poniatowska Producer: Danica Zivkovic On-set production: Malaika Naik Model: Alexa at Fashion League Production assistant: Dina Taha AlQaisyLighting assistant: JeyStyle assistant: Oksana Mozgovaia

Since the dawn of celebrity, jewelry has had a starring role in the entertainment industry. While today jewels are worn in unconventional ways, styling just scratches the surface of gems’ evolution.
Audrey Hepburn wore the stone in the 1961 movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s
Once upon a time, in the Golden Age of Hollywood, the mere proposition of a mismatched suite of jewelry would have starlets speeddialing Harry Winston, Cartier, or Tiffany & Co. for options. It was an unwritten (although a widely accepted) rule that beautiful gowns deserved equally stunning parures, including a necklace, matching pendant earrings, a bracelet, and a megawatt ring. Jewels were extravagant status symbols designed to elicit oohs and aahs from adoring crowds who’d waited hours to see their idols in the flesh. They had to be bold enough to make a splash in the newspaper the next day and incorporate the du jour gemstones, like sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and, of course, diamonds, to keep up with the competition. Actress Elizabeth Taylor favored Bulgari, Gloria Swanson wore Cartier, and together Audrey Hepburn and Tiffany & Co. became immortal. Celebrities of this era didn’t have social media to showcase their daily lives. They were at their most visible at movie premieres and award ceremonies where formality reigned supreme, and glamour was dialed up to 11. Ornaments had to handle the heat of flashbulbs and tell a story of sensational status in one fell swoop. The variety of fine and high jewelry on display had to fit within the narrow parameters of red-carpet dressing or catch the eye of a Hollywood studio stylist outfitting the next blockbuster. Look to Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes as an example of the latter. There was no need to be edgy or alternative.
Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes
Fast forward to today, and the landscape for accessories’ styling has completely changed. Tastes have evolved, new high jewelers like Messika and Marli have emerged, or like Repossi, have re-emerged, and the universe of celebrity has expanded. Contemporary jewelry lovers hail from myriad cultures worldwide. They can access gems and be inspired by their imagery with the click of a button or a swipe on their phone. Now, there are countless occasions when a celebrity (actresses, influencers, activists, authors, TV presenters, and many more) may wish to wear jewelry without stepping foot on a red carpet. Enter the age of self-expression. Rather than shouting about wealth, status, power, and privilege, the requirements about what a jeweler should “say” has shifted. The power of gems to tell stories has come into sharper focus – not only based on colors, shapes, and silhouettes but also materials, combinations, and sustainable credentials.
Jenna Ortega in layers of diamonds and Tiffany T jewels at the 2023 Golden Globes
Away from the ultra-glam of award shows, celebrities have been focused on stacking, layering, and mismatched pairings. In 2022, it was all about the “neck mess” trend – a casual-cool, Instagram-worthy cacophony of jewels worn around the neck in perfectly undone synchronicity, like they’ve been thrown on (but are orchestrated and well-thought-through). The trend kickstarted on the runways at Chanel, Isabel Marant, Moschino, Tom Ford, Marine Serre, and Schiaparelli for SS22 and was picked up by Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, Bella and Gigi Hadid, Hailey Bieber, and Rihanna on Instagram. We’re in a time of purposeful rule-breaking and anti-precision, where rings are thrown together to feel more like armor than adornments. When a celebrity is leaning into a larger-than-life public persona, what better way to express that than with maximalist ornament styling? This is determined and dynamic jewelry dressing for the 21st century.
Taylor Hill at the 2022 Messika high jewelry show
Fortunately, brands have recognized this new landscape and have risen to the challenge of adorning all women, with many different mindsets, for various occasions. Repossi has its Serti Sur Vide collection of “floating diamonds” for the modern-day ingénue; Dior is focusing on lacquered finishes to add surprising pops of color, and brands like Cartier, Boucheron, and Chaumet are stepping into shoulder, hair, and lapel jewels that reflect a rebellious spirit. Messika has found its niche for today’s equivalent of Kate Moss at Glastonbury in the mid-2000s. A bohemian cool-girl who’s just as happy to wear a diamond ring as she is a lip jewel, body chain, or golden collar. At a different end of the spectrum is Marie Mas, spearheaded by chief designer Marie Cabirou, and the Luminous Lines collection. The offering is sensual, hyper-feminine, and certainly wouldn’t look out-of-place on today’s Hollywood royalty, like Margot Robbie or Jessica Chastain.
Gigi Hadid at last year’s Messika high jewelry show
This new era of customers demands answers, too, especially around how pieces are crafted, where diamonds and gemstones originate from, and how sustainable the materials are. This isn’t just about how jewelry is styled; this is a shift in how it is conceived. One brand that has long recognized this is Chopard. Its ongoing “Journey to Sustainable Luxury” is a long-term commitment that underpins its Green Carpet Collection and its focus on using gold from 100% ethical sources.
Elizabeth Taylor in Bulgari
If the jewelry story in the golden years of Hollywood was straightforward, today, it’s not that simple. Avant-garde accessorizing speaks volumes about how a contemporary celebrity wants to be perceived. Are they edgy or the ingénue? A fashion risk-taker or an elegant silver screen purist? It is no longer simply an actor’s choice of wardrobe that sets them apart, but the way they amp up an outfit with diamonds and colored stones. Recent years have seen jewelry play a role in cleverly orchestrated fashion comeback stories, when celebrities want to re-establish themselves and modernize their image. To wit: Hollywood actress Anne Hathaway has been wearing of-the-moment Valentino pink, metallic Christopher John Rogers, and corseted puffer jackets by Versace, all while dripping in high jewelry by Bulgari. The actress was named an ambassador for the Italian jeweler just in time for the Cannes Film Festival, where she wore the Mediterranean Reverie necklace from its Eden The Garden of Wonders High Jewellery collection. This piece is set with a 107.15ct cushion-cut Sri Lankan sapphire, surrounded by baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds.
Salma Abu Deif in Bulgari at the Cairo International Film Festival
If jewelry can put entertainers back on the map, then it can also cement legendary status. No piece appears to do this better than the Tiffany Diamond – a 128.54ct fancy yellow gem that’s been worn by only a handful of women in its history. Audrey Hepburn wore the stone in the 1961 movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s, followed by Lady Gaga at the 2019 Oscars, where she picked up the Best Original Song award for Shallow in A Star is Born. Most recently, the Tiffany Diamond was worn by Beyoncé – now the most decorated Grammy Award winner of all time – for the Tiffany & Co. About Love advertising campaign in 2021. In parallel, celebrities’ star powers also influence the way the public views gems. If Tiffany & Co. was deemed the height of uptown sophistication on Audrey Hepburn, worn by Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, it now stands for inclusivity and elegance with an edge, too.
Jewelry has a way of telling stories without having to say a word. Actress Jenna Ortega wore layers of diamonds and Tiffany T ornaments at the 2023 Golden Globes to add a youthful, “It-Girl” vibe to her redcarpet aesthetic. On the night, Best Actress Award winner Michelle Yeoh wore a more traditional suite of white diamond high jewelry by Moussaieff to signify her “icon” status. In contrast, the next-gen of actresses (Lily James, Kaley Cuoco, Selena Gomez, Julia Garner, and Letitia Wright, among others) stuck with trending, barely-there diamond drop earrings to stay up to date and highlight their relevance. Perhaps it is fair to say that times are harder for brands now. To adorn women of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, maisons needed dynamic and undeniably beautiful jewels that fulfilled narrow parameters of glamour. Today’s icons demand more. They expect to be daring, inventive, insightful, meaningful, and haute, all at the same time. There are luncheons, Instagram snaps, late-night TV, special guest appearances, and award shows to consider. Each one needs an artful wardrobe of expressive jewels that speak louder than words.
Originally published in the March 2023 issue of Vogue Arabia
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A new exhibition in Riyadh—the first and largest of its kind—puts on show spectacular Van Cleef & Arpels creations until mid-April 2023. Take a look inside the much-talked-about showcase by the high jewelry maison. 
Amina El-Demirdash, great granddaughter of Queen Nazli, wearing the Queen’s Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace. Photo: Julian Torres
Giving visitors an opportunity to discover an enchanting vision – one in which Van Cleef & Arpels’s expert craftsmanship and pursuit of harmony come together as a true art form – the “Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love” patrimonial exhibition has begun from January 19, and runs until April 15, 2023. Some stunning pieces are on display at the National Museum of Saudi Arabia, displaying the works of the maison for the first me in the Kingdom. Supported by the Saudi Ministry of Culture, the exhibition features more than 280 jewelry pieces, watches, and precious objects created since the maison was founded in 1906 – alongside more than 90 archival documents, sketches and gouaché designs.
Empress Farah Pahlavi wore a Van Cleef & Arpels crown at her coronation, and it featured 36 emeralds, 36 spinels and rubies, 105 pearls, and 1,469 diamonds. Photo: Rex
Two noteworthy pieces on display are the breathtaking Princess Faiza Collaret, and the Queen Nazli necklace. Created in 1929, the art deco collaret is remarkable for its 10 drop-shaped emeralds of extraordinary quality and its diamonds of multiple cuts and shapes. Weighing 165ct, it was purchased by the Egyptian Crown, and is a typical Court jewel that Princess Faiza of Egypt, the sister of King Farouk, would love to wear on special occasions, including gala balls in Paris, Zohria Palace, and on the French Riviera. A woman of great elegance and the owner of a highly original collection of jewelry, Princess Faiza appreciated the fusion of old stones in more contemporary settings. The necklace that she bought in 1929 was modified in the late 1930s. It takes the form of a highly flexible choker, whose diamond droplets are set with nine old emerald pendeloques. A 10th emerald is positioned at the back of the jewel on a particularly ornate clasp. Having been acquired by a new owner, the piece reappeared at auction in November 2013, at Christie’s in Geneva. It was purchased by Van Cleef & Arpels for its private collection.
Photo: Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
Another art deco masterpiece is the Queen Nazli necklace. Set with 673 diamonds for 204.03ct, and a center sun motif, in 1938, on the wedding of Princess Fawzia of Egypt to Mohammed Reza Pahlavi, future Shah of Iran, Van Cleef & Arpels created jewelry to be worn by the bride and by her mother, Queen Nazli of Egypt. Engulfed with platinum and diamonds, the Collaret delicately holds more than 600 diamonds, with nearly 200 to 300ct, and is among the 20th century’s finest examples unifying the lightness of white jewelry and the elegance of art deco. Subsequently, Queen Nazli wrote a letter to Van Cleef & Arpels expressing ‘her great satisfaction’ and placed another order for a Passe-Partout necklace in yellow gold and colored sapphires, and a gold box decorated with a Colibri hummingbird motif in Mystery Set rubies and sapphires.
Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
The exhibition is curated by Alba Cappellieri, professor of Jewelry Design at Milan Polytechnic University and president of the Milano Fashion Institute, and its scenography is conceived by international architect-designer Johanna Grawunder. Drawing from Italian writer Italo Calvino’s Six Memos for the Next Millennium, Cappellieri chose key concepts through which she interprets the maison’s creations and their relationship with time. Grawunder, meanwhile, brought into play light and color to generate an immersive experience and a timeless journey to discover the maison’s jewelry creations. “Inspired by the colors of Saudi Arabia, I have used many RGB LEDs to create colorful shades and an atmosphere that I love to define as ethereal. This atmosphere generates a gradual transition from one room to another, creating a dialogue between all the protagonists of the exhibition,” Grawunder says. ‘
Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
The displays revolve around three sections: Time, Nature, and Love. The first section, devoted to Time, extends across 10 rooms. Cappellieri’s objective was to demonstrate the ability of the maison to understand and represent its time, especially considering the challenges for jewelry to be timeless, and to represent past, present, and future. “Coming from a design culture, where every object must represent its time, I realized that the ability of the maison is in bridging sometimes controversial aspects,” Cappellieri continues. “In Van Cleef & Arpels, you find alternative and ephemeral, you find global and local. You can find the details and the big gems. You can find beauty in terms of ornamentation, and you can find science in terms of innovation. That’s the story I tried to tell through this exhibition.” At the very center of the exhibition is the section on Love, displaying creations that are tokens of some of the most mythical romances of the 20th century. “For me, love is the most powerful energy in the world and every piece of jewelry is crafted with love,” Cappellieri says. “Moreover, Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry influenced some of the most legendary love stories of the 20th century with its symbols and gifts of love.” The third section dedicated to Nature is expressed through botany, flora, and fauna. A time-honored source of inspiration, nature has provided Van Cleef & Arpels with a boundless repertoire. “Through the maison’s creations, nature becomes art, in terms of gemstones and craftsmanship, but also as a humanistic attitude towards harmony,” Cappellieri concludes.
Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
One of the main highlights of the opening ceremony was a trio of special performances by none other than Farrah el Dibany, the Egyptian-African mezzo-soprano who was also the first singer to join the Paris Opera Academy. Below, a closer look at her time on stage to celebrate Van Cleef & Arpels.
Farrah el Dibany in a Honayda gown, and Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake necklace, bracelet and ring set, all in yellow gold and diamonds. Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
Farrah el Dibany performs in a Safiyaa gown, along with the yellow gold and diamond Palmyre necklace, bracelet and earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo: Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2023
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Princess Diana wearing the Attallah Cross at the Birthright charity gala. Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
Kim Kardashian has linked her name to yet another iconic piece of fashion history. After wearing Marilyn Monroe’s dress to the 2022 Met Gala, the mogul has just bought the Attallah Cross belonging to Princess Diana for an eye-watering US $197,453 at Sotheby’s Royal and Noble sale. The cross is an amethyst pendant with floral design details and a total diamond weight of approximately 5.25 carats. It was sold to Kardashian at more than double its pre-auction estimate after being competed for by four bidders.
The Attallah Cross. Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby’s
The unique piece of jewelry was created in the 1920s by court jewelers Garrard, and bought by Naim Attallah CBE, the former group chief executive of Asprey & Garrard, in the 1980s. A close friend of the late British royal, Attallah loaned the piece to the Princess of Wales on many occasions, including in October 1987, when she most famously wore it to a charity gala. Princess Diana had paired the pendant with a matching, purple Catherine Walker dress for the event supporting Birthright, a charity working towards the protection of human rights during pregnancy and childbirth.
According to Sotheby’s, it is said that the cross was only ever worn by the Princess, and following her death, it was never seen in public again until now. The royal also shared a special relationship with Garrard, who was the jeweler behind her engagement ring in 1981. Her last public appearance featured what is now known as the Swan Lake necklace, a diamond and South Sea pearl piece that Garrard made in collaboration with Princess Diana.
Read Next: 5 Beautiful Pieces From Princess Diana’s Jewelry Collection That Have Been Worn By Meghan

Photo: Shutterstock
Garnets come in myriad colors, but arguably they are most often thought of as a deep, rich red. While there are over 20 types of garnets, only six species feature gem quality stones, from the dark, blood-red color of the pyrope garnet to the deep oranges of the spessartine garnet.
When it comes to unearthing the red pyrope garnet, we have a rather surprising miner to thank: the humble ant. Ants encounter the garnets whilst excavating their underground passages, then haul the stones to the surface and discard them. The rain washes the garnets and carries them down the side of the ant hill, where they accumulate in large numbers, leading to their alternate name of ant hill garnets. Their vibrant crimson color makes them easy to spot in the surrounding desert soil. Many of these anthill garnets are found in the Navajo Nation area of Arizona.
Meanwhile spessartine garnets are a distinctive orange-red color, their name deriving from the forested mountain region in Germany where they were discovered in the 1880s. Despite this early discovery, these garnets weren’t commonly used in jewelry until more recent discoveries in Namibia and Mozambique. Spessartine garnets vary in shade depending where they are from, with specimens from Namibia considered the most rare and beautiful, due to their stunning saturated orange shade, often compared to the color of the Fanta drink and also known as mandarin garnets.
With their vast range of shades and tones, it’s easy to find a piece of garnet jewelry to love.
Ring, Dior Joaillerie
Ring, Moritz Glik
Ring, Stephen Webster
Ring, Cartier
Earrings, Tasaki
Earrings, Anne Sisteron
Earrings, Roxanne First
Ring, Pomellato
Brooch/pendant, Hancocks London
Ring, Briony Raymond
Earrings, Pippa Small
Ring, Alighieri
Ring, Rainbow K
Earrings, Rush Jewelry Design
Ring, Gemella Jewels
Ring, Emma Clarkson Webb
Pendant, Boghossian
Bracelet, Shay
Ring, Harry Winston
Necklace, Alice Van Cal
Necklace, M. Cohen
Earrings, Annoushka
Earrings, Boucheron
Earrings, Boodles
Clip, Robinson Pelham
Earrings, Salama Khalfan
Necklace, Ruth Tomlinson
Ring, Hirsh
Earrings, Chaumet
Ring, Theo Fennell
Bracelet, Fernando Jorge
Necklace, Brooke Gregson
Earrings, Alice Cicolini
Originally published in Tatler.com

Photo: Nima Benati
“Jewelry has the power to be the one little thing that makes you feel unique.” So said Elizabeth Taylor, a woman who understood the power of a good bauble better than perhaps anyone. Admittedly, the jewelry obsessive was less about the little things and more about the stonking, six-figure ones, but the rest of the world, it’s an adage that still rings true. Indeed it’s been a bumper couple of years for jewelry creativity since the pandemic, with hope-filled talismans, dopamine-inducing color, and advancements in traceability and circularity that point to a bright, gem-studded future.

As for 2023, trend forecaster Jodie Marie Smith has spotted a wave of youthfulness coming through, with jewelers playing with looser shapes and forms and less conventional color combinations. She points to the “chaotic combinations” of high and low materials seen in Marco Panconesi’s hybrid gemstones, and in Binliang Alexander Peng’s quirky but precious creations. “It’s irreverent, unfussy and unserious,” she says – a welcome contrast to the sometimes po-faced traditional jewellery offering. We’ve seen this same spirit in Emma Walton’s chunky double-stone rings, beloved by Dua Lipa, and Susannah King London’s upcycled multi-colored gem rings, which sell out immediately via her TikTok drops.
Miranda Preston, Fine Matter’s head of design partnerships, has witnessed this same youthful exuberance, and has just signed up King and Aimos as a result. “I love the textured, molten look of Aimos’s rings, each one is different,” she says. “The trend’s a fresh take on organic textures, with fun, chunkier pieces, and a more contemporary feel.” For Ruby Beales at Liberty, chunky hard stone pieces from By Pariah and new addition to the store, Jacqueline Cullen, provide the same organic charm, as well as the handcrafted, British-made look that the Liberty customer loves. Victoria Lampley of jewelry consultancy The Stax says the desire for the handcrafted look goes beyond looks. “People want pieces from artisanal jewelers who are sitting at the bench themselves,” she says. “They want the stamp of someone’s fingerprint on a piece.”
This is predominantly jewelry that is designed to be worn every day, and Mimi Hoppen, director of jewelry at Dover Street Market, believes that will be the chief consideration driving purchases in 2023. “I think styles that are really for everyday wear rather than occasion jewelry will be popular,” she says. She points to the continuing popularity of signet rings from the likes of Ilaria Icardi, the jewelry designer who doubles as Bottega Veneta’s ready-to-wear design director, and Raphaele Canot’s effortless diamond earrings. The same easy-to-wear feel applies to beaded jewelry, which Beales says is moving to “less a holiday, more an everyday look”. See Brooke Gregson’s semi-precious tumbled beads and By Pariah’s pieces in darker jewel tones, a shift from the previously popular summer brights.
That’s not to say that statement pieces are going away. Indeed, for Established’s Nikki Erwin, knuckle-dusting rings like her “Zero FG” style are attracting new fans with their bold good looks – and in this particular case its tongue-in-cheek secret message. “That ring has been flying with people you wouldn’t expect, even women in their 60s and 70s have fallen for it,” she laughs. Similarly at Netaporter.com, market director Libby Page says statement jewels in yellow gold remain popular. “We are loving the mix of textures, links and solid shapes, which are simple yet bold all in one. Lauren Rubinski, David Yurman and David Webb are the designers mastering this,” she says.
Pearls too remain a popular choice. “Pearls are still huge for us, and next season we’re seeing pearls that are more oversized,” says Beales, pointing to CompletedWorks’s giant pearl necklaces and bracelets. “We have seen our designers taking pearls to the next level – think diamond tennis necklaces, chokers and lariats adorned with pearls. Sophie Bille Brahe, Completedworks and Mizuki are some of our key brands for this look,” says Page.
Hoppen is also excited about the developments in lab-grown diamonds, with brands becoming more creative about what it is possible to do in a lab, and clients more open to the stones now than in the past. “There are some brands creating super interesting and beautiful techniques with these stones, for example Unsaid and Nomis,” Hoppen explains. “I’m personally really excited about the innovation and creativity coming from this world, and to see what comes next.”

Smith agrees. She says designs like Unsaid’s bubble-cut diamond ring (the largest lab-grown diamond ring yet), Patcharavipa’s diamond briolette and bead designs, and novelty cuts by the likes of Dayagi Diamonds – duck-shaped diamond, anyone? – are all enticing options for the modern jewelry lover. “It’s no longer just about a brilliant cut. It’s not about sparkle and brilliance, it’s about uniqueness and having something that other people don’t have,” she says.
“It’s game-ifying the creation process,” says Sarah Ysabel Dyne’s of the digital artworks for her bespoke Loverglyph rings.
With the likes of Bulgari already experimenting with immersive art experiences and NFTs, Smith reminds us that Web3 is coming, and it’s time for jewelry brands, who tend to be behind the curve on tech, to follow fashion’s lead and have fun with it. “I remember when jewelry brands were really reluctant to have a website or Instagram handle even,” she says. “But look at businesses like Gucci. Digital fashion in the metaverse and in gaming is really growing and expanding, and the money being spent is already enormous.” Sarah Ysabel Dyne is doing just that. Every one of her bespoke Loverglyph rings comes with its own digital artwork that brings to life the different motifs selected by the client. “As a creator, when you’re building out a universe, you want to use all the tools at your disposal,” she says. “By bringing them to life, it becomes a much more emotionally connective and immersive experience than just a flat drawing or gouache.”
Keep reading to discover which jewelry trends will get your juices flowing in 2023.
Youthful Exuberance
A rainbow of rings by Susannah King London.
Think youthful maximalism, unexpected combinations, chunky forms, and deliciously rough edges.
The Power Pinky
Leandra Cohen in one of Arielle Ratner’s Power Pinky rings.
Signet rings are going nowhere. “People want something substantial that reflects their identity, and looks cool and contemporary,” says Lampley.
Beads Go To The Dark Side
Black spinel beads incoming from Elhanati.
“We’re seeing lots of darker stones in beading, from labradorite to spinels and garnet. It’s less playful than before and can sit amongst other jewelry more easily,” says Fine Matter’s Preston.
Diamond, Disrupted
Nomis’s lab-grown diamond and sapphire ear cuff can also be worn as a ring and a pendant.
Whether they are mined or lab-grown, jewelers are thinking outside the box when it comes to everyone’s favorite gemstone.
Alternative Pearls
CompletedWorks goes big on pearls.
The gem that keeps on giving. Now it’s time for pearls to go big. Literally.
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk
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Dana Malhas. Photo: Lea Hadidian
Shortly after a successful launch this year, homegrown fine jewelry brand Maveroc has introduced its first collaboration. Joining forces with friend of the house and content creator Dana Malhas, the brand helmed by creative director Rita Chraibi has unveiled a limited edition capsule, drawing on Maveroc’s signature versatile designs.
Photo: Courtesy of Maveroc
Available to shop from December 7, the collection includes two new reversible chokers and a couple of new three-line Ménage à Trois chokers from the brand’s Whatever collection, which was the first to catch Malhas’ eye. The Saudi entrepreneur has rendered one of the chokers in her own color palette, ensuring that it can be worn front to back and back to front. “Dana is renowned for her trendy and elegant style, she represents what Maveroc is all about, a bold, avant-garde and unexpected approach to style and jewelry rooted in sophisticated simplicity,” Chraibi says. “Dana is a Maveroc woman in all regards.”
Photo: Courtesy of Maveroc
Malhas also worked closely with Chraibi to co-design two new Ménage à Trois chokers to match the brand’s Ménage à Trois rings. The first, a brightly colored one, and the other, a more timeless version bringing together diamonds and emeralds in yellow gold. For those who like to match their jewelry, the collection includes a limited-edition ear stack complementing the chokers. “The collection reflects me and who I am very well,” says Malhas. “It represents me in the most accurate way. Someone who loves colors, femininity and elegance at the same time. Someone who loves versatile pieces that can be styled in different ways and at different times.”
Photo: Lea Hadidian
The new Maveroc x Dana Malhas collection is available for a limited time starting December 7 at Maveroc.com and will be showcased at a pop-up at Le Guépard om December 9.
Read Next: This New Homegrown Brand is Bringing Playful and Stackable Designs to the Fine Jewelry Industry

Vagues étincelantes necklace in white gold with diamonds, Souffle de diamants ring in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Having begun her journey in the musical sphere at the young age of 14, Farrah El Dibany is no stranger to the fine arts. The mezzo-soprano isn’t just the first Egyptian-African singer to join the Paris Opera Academy, she also holds a master’s degree from the Berlin University of the Arts and a bachelor’s in architecture at Technische Universität Berlin. Given her eye for the most intricate details, it would be safe to assume that this multifaceted woman aims at excellence in every sphere of her life—fashion included.
Often seen draped in elegant gowns, Farrah El Dibany takes over the pages of Vogue Arabia’s November 2022 issue sparkling in a new collection by Van Cleef & Arpels. This month, the French luxury jewelry house is celebrating its Legend of Diamonds line, which comprises two chapters: The 25 Mystery Set Jewels, and the White Diamond Variations. Here’s everything you need to know about both.

25 Mystery Set Jewels
Châtelaine earrings with detachable pendants in white gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse transformable necklace in white and rose gold with diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies, Hollywood bracelet in white and rose gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse ring in white and rose gold with diamonds and rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has repeatedly highlighted the undeniable beauty of colored gemstones with collections including Collection of the Century (2002), Pierres de Caractère (2006), Pierres de Caractère – Variations (2013), Émeraude en majesté (2016), and Treasure of rubies (2019). Now, the fashion house unveils the 25 Mystery Set Jewels, a collection of 25 statement creations, all of which feature painstakingly cut diamonds that come from one rough diamond of 910 carats, the Lesotho Legend. “Finding a stone of this size in its natural state is truly emotional,” the Director of the Van Cleef & Arpels Stones Department shared. “It’s the kind of thing we dream of but don’t dare to imagine. We are here at the beginning of this diamond, after its formation, when there has not yet been any human intervention. When I see a rough stone like this, I would like to keep it this way, because it is so beautiful.”
The Lesotho Legend, which is counted as the fifth largest rough diamond in both size and quality ever mined, found its 67 brilliant fragments embedded in a series of stunning jewelry pieces. The Van Cleef & Arpels Design Studio ensured that the brand’s trademark style was recognizable throughout. Designers worked closely with expert gemologists and the High Jewelry Workshops to design precious settings inspired by the history of the Maison. For an extra dimension, Van Cleef & Arpels accompanied each diamond with precious gems, bringing together curved lines, and an intense play of colors—via rubies, sapphires and emeralds.
White Diamond Variations
Châtelaine earrings with detachable pendants in white gold with diamonds, Roaring Twenties transformable long necklace in white and rose gold with diamonds, Hollywood bracelet in white and rose gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Alexandre Vauthier. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
The second chapter in the Legend of Diamonds series, the White Diamond Variations collection, takes us back to the importance diamonds hold in the world of Van Cleef & Arpels. Celebrated since the time the very first VCA piece was sold in 1906 – a heart set with brilliant-cut diamonds – the diamond takes centre stage in this 82 piece line, which takes inspiration form the Maison’s rich heritage.
From cascading necklaces that take inspiration from the Roaring Twenties, to sparkling chandelier earrings that can be transformed into a clip, the White Diamond Variations pieces truly convey the absolute versatility of this most precious of stones. Jewelry enthusiasts will also delight in the Dear Liz earrings (inspired by the 1920s Bow brooch that belonged to Elizabeth Taylor), the Vagues étincelantes necklace, which is crafted to sit gently on the skin like a foam of diamonds, and the gorgeous Boogie-woogie bracelet, reminiscent of the Maison’s archival designs from the late 1930s through the 1940s.
Below, take a closer look at Van Cleef & Arpel’s captivating creations, as seen on Farrah El Dibany.

Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Diamond chandelier clip in white gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse ring in white and rose gold with diamonds and rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; jacket, pants, Alaïa. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Fabulous Fifties necklace in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Fabulous Fifties necklace in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo

Style: Anna Klein Digi tech:Dope ParisProduction: Danica Zivkovic Hair: Annesofie Begtrup at Wise & Talented Makeup: Annabelle Petit at Wise & TalentedNails: Adrienne at B-agency Photography assistant: Patricia Zheng

For David Rees and Ron Anderson, co-owners and designers of the TenThousandThings fine jewelry collection, celebrating 30 years in business, standing the test of time comes down to some basic principles.
“We focus on the product,” said Rees. “TenThousandThings is an intensive studio experience. We design and make every single thing ourselves. We have no design staff. It’s a real studio experience, an atelier.

“We sit at our benches and work together every day. Working together is the easiest and most fun part of the business,” he added.

TenThousandThings is having a moment. The jewelry brand has been nominated for designer of the year by the Gem Awards to be held March 17. On Tuesday, a “Thirty Years of TenThousandThings” retrospective opens at the Pratt Institute Library in Brooklyn, in conjunction with New York City Jewelry Week.

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Hand-cut lapis totem earrings from TenThousandThings.

“David and Ron are both the designers and the craftsmen behind the collection, which is quite rare and extraordinary,” said Marion Fasel, an editor and jewelry historian who is curating the Pratt exhibit and has known Rees and Anderson for nearly 30 years.

“They are self-taught but really analyze jewelry history, art and shape, whether it’s Georgia O’Keeffe flowers, blackened silver necklaces from the Victorian era, or beaded necklaces that reach back to ancient Rome. They bring all that to their work. It’s layered,” Fasel said. “They are involved so deeply in the process. While people might not know every detail in the process, they sense it.

“When David and Ron launched their collection in the ’90s, they really captured the zeitgeist of the era,” Fasel recalled. “The scale of their jewelry was in perfect sync with the look of the clothes then, the very minimalist clothes, and their jewelry took off like wildfire, with multiple magazine covers and with celebrities who just fell in love with the collection. They have always been very much in tune with what was happening in fashion.”

TenThousandThings’ signature beaded pink sapphire beads on a gold chain.

Fasel, who will moderate a discussion with the designers on Tuesday at 6 p.m. at the Pratt Institute Library, said the retrospective showcases several jewelry categories — stone cut earrings, foxtail chains, beaded necklaces, sculptural designs in metal, gems in unique settings — as well as media moments, celebrities who became clients, magazine credits and collaborations with Sotheby’s and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. “The first credit ever received was on Kate Moss in a CK Calvin Klein ad, which was her first appearance in American media,” Fasel said.

“One of the benefits of being self-taught is that they have no baggage of what they should be doing,” said Fasel. “They do what they want to do and invent techniques to achieve different looks.”

The origins of the company date back to when Rees was working as the manager and buyer at the former Linda Dresner store in Manhattan, and Anderson appeared with his jewelry to show Dresner. Rees and Anderson dated for a few years, while the business partnership blossomed and endured.

“This company is based on Ron’s vision,” Rees said. “I came in and helped merchandise Ron’s ideas and turned it into a collection.…We both design, but in different ways. In jewelry design, it’s the process that informs the product. I work in wax, Ron works in metal, mostly, to create the idea, the model that becomes the jewelry.”

At their New York City atelier they handcraft modern heirlooms — sculptural forms in natural stones, silver and gold, inspired by abstract shapes found in nature, often utilizing turquoise, black opals and pearls. There is also a 500-square-foot showroom/boutique, designed by Rees and Anderson, at 237 West 13th Street in Greenwich Village, Manhattan. The atelier is hidden from view just in the back. Among the brand’s bestsellers are the signature pearl beaded chains, handcut Labradorite “chicklet” necklaces, and different jade pieces.

Since 2017, collections centering around fine carved stones are a result of working with craftsmen in Jaipur, India, who take the duo’s models, created in either metal, wax or foam, and use traditional, decades-old techniques to transform rough stones into luminous hand-carved shapes destined to become custom composition earrings and necklaces. “Each piece takes eight people, for cutting, shaping and polishing,” said Rees.

The name TenThousandThings is taken from I Ching, the Chinese philosophy, and is interpreted as meaning from one thing begets 10,000 things. “It subtly implies evolution,” said Rees. “It’s a perfect description of our business. We keep evolving and keep pushing forward.”

A hand-cut Labradorite chiclet.

As global tourism continues to ramp up, Repossi and Cheval Blanc have linked on a limited-edition design that celebrates Cheval Blanc’s signature color to be sold in luxury gift shops.

Cheval Blanc, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s hotel management division, has five locations across the world — including Paris, St. Barths, St. Tropez, Randheli and Courchevel.

Repossi creative director Gaia Repossi reinterpreted the maison’s Berbere ring, with its trademark stacked bands, to reflect Cheval Blanc’s sophisticated, global mentality.

For the collaboration, Repossi covered the larger of its Berbere Chromatic ring’s two bands in a taupe lacquer. Set in 18-karat pink gold, the design also featured 38 pavé diamonds, weighing a total of 0.34 carats. It will retail for 3,900 euros, or about $3,815, and is available for purchase next month within Cheval Blanc’s gift shops.

“This ring is the new take on our chromatic ring for Cheval Blanc, it evokes a nude chic neutral shade that evokes travels and a timeless color among our palettes. I’m very excited about this presence of our classic emblematic rings in these beautiful locations of all Cheval Blanc,” said Repossi.