There were plenty of accessories to note from the haute couture autumn/winter 2022 shows. Demna went high-tech at Balenciaga and debuted air-filtering face shields, made in collaboration with Mercedes-AMG F1, and speaker bags by Bang & Olufsen.
Mega jewelry was trending this season, too. Daniel Roseberry paired his sculptural couture looks with gargantuan earrings that skimmed models’ navels at Schiaparelli, Fendi debuted asymmetric brooches clipped onto gloves, while Olivier Rousteing made a case for the nose ring during his takeover at Jean Paul Gaultier.
Scroll on for a closer look at the best accessories from Couture Fashion Week.
Balenciaga’s face shields and speaker bags
Schiaparelli’s mega earrings
Viktor & Rolf’s preppy ties
Iris Van Herpen’s futuristic headbands
Alexandre Vauthier’s bejeweled corsages
Fendi’s micro gloves
Jean Paul Gaultier’s punky nose rings
Chanel’s whimsical hair bows
Valentino’s opera gloves
Giambattista Valli’s sci-fi shades
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk
Read next: 15 Brightly-Colored Accessories That Will Give All Your Summer Outfits a Boost
Being the founder of her eponymous footwear label, Amina Muaddi always brings her sartorial A-game to fashion weeks. As the menswear leg of the fashion week took off in Paris, calling for layered ensembles that were borderline masculine, the Jordanian-Romanian designer delivered just that while putting her own spin on each look.
Muaddi shared one of her first ensembles on Instagram when she attended Bianca Saunders’ first runway show, captioning the outfit photos, “My type of menswear”. The designer was dressed in a brown and off-white checkered jumpsuit from the London-based brand, unbuttoned at the top to allow a black bralette to peek through. Paired with presumably her own pointed-toe heels, a chainlink choker, and geometrical hoops, the belted jumpsuit was layered with a cream-colored faux fur coat.
The designer’s next look was a particularly meaningful one. To attend friend and late designer Virgil Abloh‘s final show for Louis Vuitton, Muaddi chose a black, sportier ensemble from the French fashion house. The hooded jacket featured white panels with hints of neon green, a zip-up face covering, and an industrial buckled belt cinching it at the waist before it opened at the bottom for a dress with a voluminous hem to show through. “The last @louisvuitton show from the man who continues to make us dream from Heaven,” she captioned her outfit photos. “Forever ever @virgilabloh. Your most beautiful collection yet, I was in awe the whole time. We love you so much. Proudly wearing @louisvuitton by @virgilabloh. Just like I did at your 1st show.”
For the Dior Fall 2022 couture show, Muaddi channeled her bold side and opted for a strapless outfit with two-toned leopard prints from the maison. She paired the short look with tights, the Amina Muaddi Yigit Boot, and a mini Dior Lady bag. As the couture week has only just started, we are sure to see more noteworthy looks from the designer. Take a look at all of them below and make sure to check back for more.
In Bianca Saunders. Photo: Instagram.com/aminamuaddi
In Louis Vuitton. Photo: Instagram.com/aminamuaddi
In Dior. Photo: Getty
Read Next: Rihanna’s Latest Date Night Look Included Her Favorite Amina Muaddi Heels
Schiaparelli kicked off the Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture Fashion Week this Monday, January 24, 2022 at the Petit Palais. In front of a handful of handpicked guests, which included the couple Ye and Julia Fox, the house presented 32 silhouettes, which were true demonstrations of their expertise. Forget colors and volumes, Daniel Roseberry returned to the very essence of couture with An Era of Discipline, a collection dreamed up with a restricted chromatic palette, comprised of only black, white and gold. This allowed a redefinition of Schiaparelli gold, neither warm nor cool-toned, created especially for the house from 24-carat gold leaf.
All the incredible details you missed at the Schiaparelli haute couture show
Details included a striking wardrobe with divine accents such as graphic elements, three-dimensional signature embroideries, ornaments of optical illusion in molded leather, and silhouettes that defied the laws of gravity, which Daniel Roseberry did not hold back on. Here is a closer look.
The hoop sleeves enhanced with Apollon de Versailles embroidery
The jacket adorned with three-dimensional palm trees
The gold leaf baguettes
The braided knit dress
The jewelry dress made from hand-molded leather embossed ornaments
The gold trompe-l’œil skeleton
The statement hat
The gold metal bustier surrounded by Saturn’s rings
The metallic headdress with black feathers
Translation by Anissa Agrama
Originally published in Vogue.fr
Mrs Keepa SS22. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
The spring 2022 fashion month is marking a new beginning for many Arab labels. While a number of regional designers were notably absent on last year’s digital and physical runways, this year makes up for it as more take the global spotlight.
Read on to see which Middle Eastern designers have made their fashion week debut this season.
Noon By Noor
After showcasing in New York for 16 consecutive seasons followed by a year-long hiatus, Noon By Noor made its move to the London fashion week calendar. Bahraini cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa presented their label’s Collection 2 – Light at East London’s Rochelle School, establishing its presence in the European market. For their return, the designers chose to maintain the label’s codes while drawing inspiration from their home country. “A photograph of Bahraini pearl divers in their sarongs gently gathered and tied at the waist, mixed with dreams of summer sunshine, holiday memories and flowers was the start of our spring collection development,” stated Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa. The minimalistic collection features a mix of structured pieces with masculine details alongside feminine dresses and separates with floral embroidery and mirror work.
2016 Vogue Fashion Prize winner Reema Al Banna took her Dubai-based brand Reemami to Milan for its fashion week debut this month. For this special collection, the Lebanese designer chose to pay homage to her culture and heritage by incorporating elements from her childhood memories such as horse riding and food. The artistic work of refugees is celebrated too as Palestinian women contribute their patchworks to the collection which is combined with Al Banna’s own designs to interpret them in a modern way. In a fresh color palette of pink, green, white, and beige, the designer offered pieces featuring her signature playful patterns on a mixture of boxy yet feminine silhouettes.
Saudi designer Abdul Al-Romaizan’s label made its fashion week debut with a collection titled Gioia di Vivere (The Joy of Life). At the Palazzo Serbelloni, the new Italy-based brand featured luxury looks for both men and women in bold colors and prints. The collection was inspired by the “shared global experience of stepping out and embracing fashion once more.” Ahead of the show, Al-Romaizan said in a statement, “I am driven by passion and filled with optimism as we prepare to unveil this collection, which honors my heritage as well as the current vision for Saudi Arabia.”
For her first-ever showcase during Paris fashion week, Egyptian-French designer Mariam Yeya dialed up the signature of her brand Mrs Keepa — color, drama, and daring cuts. Aptly named Harmonious Chaos, the 90-piece collection featured a combination of tailoring and sportswear, easy-to-wear basics, and evening-ready pieces. In keeping with the maximalism the Dubai-based label is best known for, highlights of the pieces included voluminous puff sleeves, wide-leg camo pants, and opera gloves.
Read Next: All the Highlights and Trends from Milan Fashion Week SS22
MILAN — “Energy” was a recurrent word during the press conference Italy’s Camera della Moda president Carlo Capasa hosted on Tuesday to officially present the Milan Fashion Week schedule.Capasa particularly expressed his satisfaction over the return of physical events, which will account for 125 of the 173 appointments scheduled for show week, which will run from Sept. 21 to 27.
“We’re inverting the trend compared to the last couple of [mainly digital] editions, which is something that gives us a powerful injection of energy in this moment,” said Capasa.
The schedule features 42 IRL shows out of 65 in total. For instance, Roberto Cavalli, under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi; Moncler, and Boss, the sister collection of Hugo Boss, are returning to the calendar and set to host physical events. For the first time, brands such as MM6 Maison Margiela, HUI and Vitelli will stage runway shows in Milan.
Prada, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Versace, Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Marni, Max Mara, Jil Sander, Alberta Ferretti, Etro and MSGM are among the established names slated to present their collections in-person, while Emilio Pucci, Dsquared2, Antonio Marras, GCDS and Philipp Plein are some of the brands sticking to the digital format this season.
As reported, Gucci will head to Los Angeles to present its next collection on Nov. 3, coinciding with the LACMA Art+Film Gala taking place on Nov. 6, for which the fashion house is the founding and presenting sponsor. Yet the brand will host a special event dubbed “Vault” during Milan Fashion Week, the details of which are still under wraps.
Moschino and Bottega Veneta are missing from the Italian schedule as the former will showcase its women’s spring 2022 collection as part of New York Fashion Week, while the latter, after decamping to London and Berlin, will stage a show in Detroit on Oct. 21.
In addition to Gucci, other events on the Milanese calendar will include the “The Way We Are” exhibition marking the 40th anniversary of the creation of the Emporio Armani brand and to be staged at the Armani Silos venue, as well as cocktail parties celebrating the 20th anniversary of Pomellato’s “Nudo” collection, the 50-year career of Chiara Boni and the 60th anniversary of the Marcolin eyewear company.
As for the annual “Green Carpets Fashion Awards,” this year Camera della Moda will forgo the event that traditionally wrapped the city’s fashion week in September. Having ended the collaboration with Livia Firth and the Eco-Age agency, the Italian fashion chamber will reprise the event next year under the new name, “CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards.” More details will be unveiled on Sept. 22, when the organization will host an event, but Capasa said that the concept will remain the same and continue to acknowledge the work of those who stand out for their application of sustainability principles in fashion.
Shows at Milan Fashion Week will officially kick off on Sept. 22 with the We Are Made in Italy (Black Lives Matter in Italian Fashion Collective) digital presentation, offering five new talents who are people of color the chance to display their collections in a video filmed by Antonio Dikele DiStefano, the writer and filmmaker behind the Netflix series “Zero.”
The Milan schedule will also mark the debut on the official calendar of labels including Colville, Andreadamo, Defaince by Nicola Bacchilega, Roberto Di Stefano, Iuri, Traffico, Radica Studio and Airin Tribal, among others.
All physical events will be accessible upon the showing of the “Green Pass” as per the Italian government’s decision. The pass enables citizens to enter schools, bars, restaurants, cinemas and other indoor venues by certifying they have been vaccinated, read negative to a test or recovered from COVID-19 in the previous six months.
Capasa himself strongly appealed to everyone to get vaccinated as “this is the only weapon we have against the virus” and underscored the beneficial effects the vaccination campaign had on the economy since the Italian fashion industry’s sales significantly rebounded in the first half of 2021, registering a 24 percent increase compared to the same period last year.
Projections for sales generated by the fashion industry and categories such as jewelry, beauty and eyewear combined show 20.9 percent growth to 83.1 billion euros in 2021 compared to the 68.8 billion euros in 2020. In 2019, sales generated by those industries were 90.2 billion euros, so the positive projection elaborated by Camera della Moda would still not mark a return to pre-COVID-19 level.
“If the Christmas holiday season and relative sales will go well and this projection is confirmed, we would recover 15 billion euros out of the over 22.5 billion euros we lost last year. We wouldn’t make up for all the losses but we aim to recover the rest in 2022, if not even grow next year. I think there’s great attention on Italian fashion right now, and data on our export performance confirm this,” said Capasa.
Exports are expected to increase 24.5 percent to almost 70 billion euros by the end of 2021 compared to the previous year.
In the first five months of the year, exports of Italian fashion goods grew 27.6 percent. Top destinations included Switzerland, France, Germany as well as the U.S. and China, where exports were up 31.9 percent and 93.9 percent, respectively, compared to the same period last year.
As for Milan Fashion Week’s attendance, Capasa said that European and American buyers and members of the press are expected, while fashion operators from China won’t be present due to travel limitations.
The international appeal of the event will be boosted by many initiatives Camera della Moda has included in the schedule.
These comprise the sixth edition of “Budapest Select,” spotlighting four Hungarian brands, and the first effort of the “Fashion Bridges” project it launched with South African institutions and South African Fashion Week earlier this year. Four former students of Polimoda were paired with young designers of the SAFW to develop capsule collections that will be unveiled during Milan Fashion Week, before traveling to Johannesburg Fashion Week at the end of October.
To further support young talents, the seventh edition of Milano Moda Graduate will showcase nine talents hailing from different Italian fashion schools, while emerging brands Amotea, Des Phemmes, Federico Cina, Froy and Traffico will be promoted at Rinascente as part of the “Milano Fashionable Project” initiative developed by the retailer with Camera della Moda.
How uplifting to witness the new Fall 2021 collections starting to filter through – they feel like a temporary jolt out of a pandemic-induced haze. And designers really have gone ‘all-out’ this season, presenting beautifully ethereal films (Dior) and cinematic shorts (Miu Miu) from the dreamy halls of the Palace of Versailles to far-flung snow-capped mountains. Lockdown has obviously inspired the desire for wanderlust and fantasy, and the fashion? Well, it’s all the better for it.
An undercurrent of protection and utility – familiar narratives for Winter offerings – is, understandably, evident once again in oversized quilted coats (Chloe), padded ski jackets (Miu Miu) and cropped shearling-trimmed bombers (Givenchy). At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri tucked 50s headscarves into turtleneck sweaters, topped with elegantly-cut, ankle-grazing coats – investment pieces that feel right, for now.
Going back to the aforementioned ‘jolt,’ take in Jonathan Anderson’s bold and offbeat collection for Loewe to feel the fizz of new ideas blossoming. Zig-zag prints, cocoon shapes, colorful accessories – this is outright fun and frivolous fashion that requires no justification… coming to an extravagantly staged Tim walker editorial soon. This is artwork for the body: a blue two-piece trimmed with giant tassels, draped silk tops with huge buckle-like embellishment, wide striped culottes, and fluffy psychedelic mohair sweaters – pieces that simply radiate joy.
For those going back to the office, there are plenty of suggestions for an elevated everyday wardrobe from Elie Saab, Hermes and Fendi, whose flowing silk skirts and belted tonal blouses with extra-wide cuffs combine comfort, modesty and chic wearability. Jil Sander, too, has plenty to inspire a wardrobe refresh with long leather gloves and point-toe knee boots paired with geometric dresses, topped with a neck scarf in the same print – effortless layering done really, really well.
Read Next: 5 Key Fall 2021 Fashion Trends to Know Now