Marco De Vincenzo’s vision at the creative helm of Etro is taking shape: For pre-fall 2023, the designer unveiled a cohesive, chic effort that offered better clarity on the design seeds he planted in his debut collection in September.
This second lineup confirmed the new Etro to be younger, cleaner in its silhouettes and rich in texture. As De Vincenzo had more time to get to know the brand, he showed an even stronger determination to put the textile heritage of the Italian company at the core of his designs. (Not coincidentally, he set the look book images in the impressive library housed at Etro’s Milan headquarters, filled with textile tomes tracing back to the 19th century.)
Keeping with his seminal collection, De Vincenzo avoided the longtime association between Etro and paisley to favor eccentric, tapestry-like patterns and graphic prints with a ‘70s flavor. Most silhouettes further evoked the decade with their elongated lines, flared or ruffled details while others had a more ‘60s vibe with geometric shapes, cropped proportions and short hemlines.
The visual strength of the patterns could have overwhelmed, but De Vincenzo’s main contribution to Etro so far has been his focus on simple, classic shapes.
Cue tapestry-like cropped tops, miniskirts and unfussy dresses with lace detailing as well as printed midi frocks and separates such as bomber jackets and shirts. A look pairing a skintight graphic knit and furry miniskirt was chic in its simplicity and tactile contrast.
Focusing on the mannish codes that are part of Etro’s heritage, De Vincenzo included a series of velvet suits and gave the brand’s signature striped shirts a feminine spin in ruffled dresses. He splashed floral motifs on printed organza to amplify the romantic vibe, and experimented with denim patchworks for more everyday options.
“It’s all about one or two pieces [per look] in order not to confuse codes, which in this moment for me are important to stay pure so that people can read them.…I’m obsessed with lost chances, and I believe a cleaner approach can reignite attention on things Etro already did in the past,” said De Vincenzo during a walk-through.
Other key contributions were the exploration of monochrome looks and a revamp of accessories. For the former, he came up with delicate floral embroideries that could nod to the brand also in palette-cleansing black pieces, as seen on a micro vest and a trenchcoat. For the latter, De Vincenzo put to good use his 20-year experience designing handbags — he retains his role in the Fendi leather goods design department — by developing new shapes, such as the sophisticated Vela bag that finished off this strong, polished collection.