Fall RTW

Zuhair Murad RTW Fall 2022

Zuhair Murad RTW Fall 2022

Zuhair Murad has a nearly photographic memory. He swoops up visuals from his travels and research, mixes them all up and then distills them back into his designs. For his latest collection, he borrowed the codes of tribal embroideries and created his own version, hand-stitched onto cashmere capes and printed onto organza. The dresses felt light for a fall collection, but Murad envisioned them to work together in layers in case of chilly climes.
He borrowed disco codes for eveningwear, and reimagined them in swingy sequins and velvet. A particular showstopper was a shimmering Lurex dress in sunset shades that wouldn’t look out of place at Studio 54 — or the modern red carpet for that matter. Zuhair is always a fave of the Hollywood set, and to that end he had taffeta gowns at the ready in bright emerald and Pantone color of the year periwinkle.

“King Richard” actress Saniyya Sidney wore Murad to last Sunday’s SAG Awards to rave reviews. At just 15 years old, she’s representative of the younger client base that has recently discovered the brand. The house says Murad is conscious to offer a range from sexy to schoolmarm, including a prim day dress with a demure velvet bow.
As always, Murad offers up a glamorous grab bag for all ages.

Minuit RTW Fall 2022

Minuit RTW Fall 2022

Minuit’s Laurie Arbellot and Marion Anais Forand wanted to focus on freedom this season, and looked to the loose sexiness of classic Charlotte Rampling. Filtered through a Lower East Side lens from Arbellot’s years in New York and morphed for the Millennial Parisienne, the result is high-waisted flares, slinky slipdresses and long-line smoking jackets that exude chic confidence.
Arbellot’s devotion to textiles is in some ways the foundation of the brand — she works from the fabric up once she finds something she’s in love with — and this season she experiments with coated cotton for a crisp cream pant-and-coat combo, topped with a dramatic faux-shearling collar to glamorous effect. Another “coup de coeur” was a quilted emerald jacquard, which was transformed into a shrunken bomber and miniskirt suit. It’s one of the few pops of color in the tightly edited collection.
The duo debuted accessories with a scarf that doubles as a belt and logo-flocked tights. Plans for bags and shoes are in the works, but for now they want to build their brand on smart staples. A sheer puff-sleeved dress has become a signature piece — “It was the first thing I sketched,” said Arbellot — and gets an update in cornflower blue, and a poplin button-down with subtle pleats at the shoulder brings a boyish sexiness that will keep clients coming back for more.

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