Emilio Pucci

Pucci’s Camille Miceli Emphasizes Joyful, Inclusive Side of Brand

Pucci’s Camille Miceli Emphasizes Joyful, Inclusive Side of Brand

CAPRI, Italy — There was no doubt in Camille Miceli’s mind that her first designs for Pucci should be unveiled in Capri, the jet-set island where founder Emilio Pucci opened his initial boutique in 1951.Fast-forward seven decades later, Capri remains an Italian gem in the Mediterranean, and Miceli, named artistic director of the brand last September, made sure that the two-day experience she planned to present her designs would reflect the Dolce Vita lifestyle associated with both Pucci and the island — and offer countless Instagrammable moments. Case in point, guests arriving by boat at the Bagni Tiberio beach and restaurant were met by two rows of models in Pucci swimsuits, fully accessorized with the brand’s colorful scarves and lying on Pucci towels in choreographed and synchronized leg lifts. Three giant Pucci pillows floated in the clear waters below the rocks.

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“We thought this was the perfect place to communicate with the new Pucci community and everyone is part of the experience and actors of the experience,” said Miceli, wearing a breezy handkerchief top with a newly revisited Emilio Pucci geometric print over a terry wrap miniskirt, pointing to several of the guests already wearing her designs, which drop on Friday as a see now, buy now collection. “It’s important for me that people don’t feel left out of the experience, it should feel more inclusive, for a mix of generations, people and society. For me, this is something major.
“Joy, fantasy, frivolity, well-being and colors, of course,” are what Pucci stands for, said Miceli, whose own energy and passion for the brand is palpable.
To be sure, Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group and a member of the LVMH executive committee, is convinced Miceli’s “energy, sense of color and skills with prints” are the right fit for the brand.
“There is a lot to do but this time, I am confident that we are on the right track and when you are there, you can decide to go faster,” said the executive, who had worked with Miceli when he was CEO of Dior. The designer in 2009 moved to the storied French brand from Louis Vuitton, building its fashion jewelry business and also served as a creative consultant on leather goods. “She is a hands-on designer, and she has such a passion for the brand,” Toledano said of Miceli.
One of the first steps that Miceli took was a return to drawing the Pucci patterns by hand, just as the founder did. “When I arrived, I saw that the drawings were done by computer but the human imperfection is perfection for Pucci,” emphasized the designer. “You feel the humanity and the sensitivity with original Emilio Pucci prints. Surely, it takes time, but I like this kind of handcraft.”
She reworked Pucci’s signature motifs in a mix-and-match patchwork of supersized or miniaturized patterns, citing, for example, the Marmo (marble) pattern and launching a new logo inspired by an archival 1953 “Capri Sport” label — an intertwining dual fish, shaped as a P woven, for example, into wooden-soled sandals or in a hoodie, or transformed into a single earring.
The first drop, called “La Grotta Azzurra” and named after Capri’s famous Blue Grotto, includes short or long caftans and kimonos in cotton voile or silk chiffon. Leveraging her expertise, Miceli is expanding the brand’s accessories range and venturing into menswear by offering larger-sized shirts, fleece jumpers and footwear, such as flip-flops shaped like fish with colorful silk details on the vamp. Backgammon sets, beach cushions and even playing cards completed the collection.

Asked about the reasons for foregoing a runway show, Miceli said she didn’t find seasonality to be relevant for Pucci and the Capri presentation would “have much more impact.”
“This experience is absolutely fitting because of the origin of Emilio Pucci’s story, the first boutique, the DNA, the memories playing,” concurred Toledano, who masterminded shifting Pucci to a resort-focused brand.
“I was seeing that the business was doing very well in Palm Beach, in Miami, in St. Tropez and that it was less an urban story,” said Toledano, citing past iterations of the brand with Christian Lacroix or Peter Dundas, for example, and a store presence in cities such as London and New York, but deciding against reinvesting in this strategy. He acknowledged the collaborations with Christelle Kocher, Supreme and Tomo Koizumi performed well, but they were “not a global concept.”
“We need to go in the direction of Emilio Pucci himself, remember where you come from before defining where you want to go, not sticking to the past but the roots are important before you grow the tree, and people are going to resorts more and more. Many friends decided to move to Miami or Palm Beach from New York during COVID-19,” continued Toledano. “Timing in life is important, it took time to have the opportunity to have Camille, it was right for her, for Pucci and for the group.”
He underscored the “kind of natural, easy and cool spirit” of the day. “It’s not a matter of taking people on a big boat and telling them look how powerful we are. It’s not this kind of marketing, this is done in a subtle way, with people sharing things together. Last night at the dinner, some people danced, some are more shy, but people are here to enjoy themselves,” said Toledano, who looked at ease himself, wearing a colorful bomber jacket in an azure print and arriving by boat.
Miceli’s first drop was available from Friday exclusively on Mytheresa and the designer is aiming to jazz up Pucci’s online communication with fresh content and shoots, and plans to expand the brand’s e-sales.
“I want to push Pucci as an internet brand, and we need to excite, offering newness, and often,” Miceli said. “Honestly, if I could I would do weekly drops, but I think I would drive them crazy,” she added with a laugh.

Miceli is not necessarily reaching out to a younger customer, but casting a wider net with a broader range of products, from morning to evening, and some “saucy” looks, she said. The second drop is scheduled for June 1, but, looking ahead through the rest of the year, she has already designed some ski and winter looks, acknowledging the founder’s skiing skills.
Toledano conceded that a strong online presence is relevant today but admitted he was “a store guy,” and that “the real experience in a store is important.”
There are plans to change the existing store concept, first in Palm Beach, Miami, St. Tropez and Portofino, and to add shop-in-shops in key department stores with “a very selective distribution.” The Hamptons or perhaps pop-ups in hotels owns by parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, such as the Hotel Cipriani in Venice, would also be good fits, he offered.
Toledano, who took the time to praise Emilio’s daughter Laudomia Pucci for protecting the brand and its archives through the years, said Pucci has been historically very successful in Japan, where the group plans to reinforce the brand, as well as in America.
Mytheresa CEO Michael Kliger said he has seen a “big customer base in the U.S. and the Middle East” for Pucci, “one of the strongest vacation brands” on the luxury site. He touted the new “more complete, full lifestyle resort” concept. While caftans and tunics “have always been a strong part of Pucci, it’s good to have more, but in an easy and natural way, like little baskets, sandals and games.”
He touted Miceli’s “fun, details-oriented” designs, and the potential opportunities in menswear.
Together, they will work “to create experiences and produce content, used to amplify on the site, and there will be a bigger push with content. It’s most important for customers to get new ideas and time them to certain occasions and moments,” Kliger said. “And social media is very important and we play a role for that message. I think the new strategy fits very well with Pucci, which has always been a light and joyful brand.”

Sources: Pucci Tapped an LVMH Insider as Its Next Designer

Sources: Pucci Tapped an LVMH Insider as Its Next Designer

Camille Miceli, a seasoned creative who has worked in the design departments of Dior and Louis Vuitton, is headed to Italy to take on Emilio Pucci, WWD has learned.
Market sources said Miceli is to start at the Florentine house sometime later this year. She could not immediately be reached for comment.
As reported, Pucci recently revealed plans to return to its roots as a resort-focused brand after years of behaving like a designer house with runways shows in Milan and boutiques on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and Madison Avenue in New York.
The glamorous Miceli, fond of the seaside and the mountains, is seen as a natural incarnation of the brand and its lifestyle.
Considered one of Italy’s fashion pioneers in outfitting the jet set, Emilio Pucci began designing skiwear out of jersey fabrics in 1947 and opened his house in 1949. His colorful, graphic motifs quickly became a signature of the house.

Most recently, Miceli worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Vuitton as accessories creative director, according to her LinkedIn profile. Before that, she advised on certain leather goods at Christian Dior and designed costume jewelry, which become an important and vibrant category fueled by her designs.
A vivacious fixture on the Paris fashion scene, Miceli joined Vuitton’s public relations department in 1997 just as Marc Jacobs arrived as its artistic director. Encouraged by the American designer, Miceli segued into creative pursuits and began designing costume jewelry collections at Vuitton.
Miceli started her fashion career at age 15 when she interned at Chanel and Azzedine Alaïa. She spent seven years as a publicist at Chanel before joining Vuitton.
Controlled by LVMH since 2000, Pucci has experimented with a variety of permanent designers over the years, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, and also studio configurations. The brand had recently experimented with guest designers, including Christelle Kocher of France and Japan’s Tomo Koizumi.
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Supreme x Emilio Pucci Collaboration to Drop This Week

Supreme x Emilio Pucci Collaboration to Drop This Week

It seems that Supreme collectors will have to wait until Thursday to put their hands on one of the most rumored collaborations of the year, the one with the Emilio Pucci brand.
On Sunday, both Supreme and the Florentine fashion house posted an image on their official Instagram accounts featuring skateboarder and music producer Sage Elsesser wearing an outfit from the collaboration: jersey shorts with an elastic waistband matched with a coordinated boxy shirt, all splashed with a signature Emilio Pucci allover print in pink, white, black and electric blue.
Supreme accompanied the image shot by David Sims with a caption reading 6/10/21, which, in keeping with the American brand’s tradition, is supposed to coincide with the date of the release of the collection. More outfits are expected to be unveiled on Instagram in the next few days.

Supreme is not new to such collaborations. Last year, it partnered with Yohji Yamamoto and in 2017 with Louis Vuitton, for example.

Supreme and Emilio Pucci have announced a collaboration dropping June 10. 
Courtesy of Supreme.

Emilio Pucci, controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has made a variety of fashion statements under a slew of designers, from Peter Dundas to Massimo Giorgetti, but is to return to its roots as a resort-focused brand. Most recently, the storied label had recently experimented with guest designers, including Christelle Kocher of France and Japan’s Tomo Koizumi, and may continue with occasional collaborations.

On Sunday, the Emilio Pucci brand was not reachable for further details about the distribution of the capsule.
The new Supreme store in Milan, the first opened by the streetwear brand in Italy, inaugurated last month, may also carry the Emilio Pucci X Supreme collection.
Spanning over about 1,080 square feet, the store, which is located on Corso Garibaldi, in the Brera district, occupies a corner retail space featuring six massive floor-to-ceiling windows, some of them offering a view of the Basilica di San Simpliciano, which dates back to the fourth century.
The store, which carries the brand’s ready-to-wear and accessories assortments displayed on wooden shelves and metal racks, features a wooden floor and white walls decorated by colorful murals by American pop art artist Nate Lowman. In addition, at the entrance, two joyful and ironic sculptures by artist and professional skateboarder Mark Gonzales welcome customers, while a digital photo collage created by Weirdo Dave occupies an entire wall. The same wall also hosts a selection of skateboards.
In Europe, Supreme also operates boutiques in Paris, in the Marais district, and in London in the SoHo area. In the U.S., the Supreme retail network includes units in Manhattan, Brooklyn, San Francisco and Los Angeles, while in Asia, the brand has six shops in Japan.
At the end of last year, VF Corp, the Denver-based group parent to The North Face, Vans and Timberland, acquired Supreme for $2.1 billion.
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EXCLUSIVE: Emilio Pucci to Reboot as Resort-focused Brand

EXCLUSIVE: Emilio Pucci to Reboot as Resort-focused Brand

Emilio Pucci, which has made a variety of fashion statements under a slew of prominent designers, is to return to its roots as a resort-focused brand, WWD has learned.
As a result, the Italian fashion house is reorganizing the workforce at its Milan headquarters and Bologna production site to match the new design and business approach. It is understood the company has held extensive discussions with unions in recent weeks, and a few dozen positions could be impacted.
In a statement provided exclusively to WWD,  LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which assumed majority control of the brand in 2000, confirmed the repositioning plan.
“Pucci has decided to evolve to adapt to the situation. This reorganization will allow Pucci to reshape its production facilities — in line with its strategic and creative shift — as well as its distribution network, to focus on best locations and to accelerate on e-commerce,” it said. “In this context, serene negotiations have been held with the employees and their representatives in an atmosphere of dialogue, openness and goodwill. This resulted in a robust agreement for both parties. Everyone is now focused on this new era for Pucci to achieve a creative and inspirational brand with a resort spirit and to bring the brand back on the path to success.”

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Market sources said LVMH had been planning the resort reboot before the coronavirus crisis, but the pandemic accelerated the repositioning effort.
In tandem with the employee reorganization, Pucci let leases expire in high-rent metropolitan cities, and locations have closed on Madison Avenue in New York and Via Montenapoleone in Milan, the latter reverting to the leaseholder Loro Piana, also controlled by LVMH. In Paris, a temporary boutique on Boulevard Saint-Germain also recently shuttered for good.
Meanwhile, it is understood that sales at Pucci boutiques in resort locations have been roaring ahead. These include Saint-Tropez in France, Palm Beach and Miami in the U.S., and Portofino and Capri in Italy. The brand is also popular in Russia and the Middle East, where it boasts boutiques in Dubai and Doha, Qatar.
A Pucci boutique also opened recently in São Paulo, Brazil, and it is understood management is now eyeing winter resort locations like Courcheval in France and St. Moritz in Switzerland. Pop-ups are likely to be part of the distribution plan going forward.
Considered one of Italy’s fashion pioneers in outfitting the jet set, Emilio Pucci began designing skiwear out of jersey fabrics in 1947 and opened his house in 1949. His colorful, graphic motifs on silk jersey quickly became the signature of the house and were originally derived from Renaissance and local Italian art.
The company is to retool given the future focus on such holiday staples as tunics, caftans, shorts, swimwear, eyewear and beach bags, plus puffer jackets, leggings and après-ski looks for the winter.
The brand had recently experimented with guest designers, including Christelle Kocher of France and Japan’s Tomo Koizumi, and may continue with occasional collaborations, sources said.
Under LVMH, Pucci has experimented with a variety of permanent designers over the years, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, and also studio configurations.

For fall 2021, the brand’s creative team foreshadowed the new resort orientation by showing recycled nylon ski suits, quilted bombers, silk pajamas and printed velvet shirt-jackets.
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