Jacquemus Heads to the Beach, Sweeney Fronts for Tory, Loewe Weaves a Tale

Jacquemus Heads to the Beach, Sweeney Fronts for Tory, Loewe Weaves a Tale

BEACHY KEEN: Arguably fashion’s most adroit outdoor showman, Simon Porte Jacquemus will head to a special location near the seaside in Arles, France, for a runway display on June 27.The collection, titled “Le Papier,” will be available for purchase immediately after the show on the Jacquemus e-store, according to the house.
Clothes and accessories for men and women will be paraded, and some items from his upcoming collaboration with Nike will be unveiled there.
Jacquemus deems his collections season-less, but the delivery corresponds roughly with the fall 2022 fashion season.
The designer prefers to stage fashion shows outside the traditional fashion calendar, and in unexpected natural settings such as a crop of wheat, a rolling field of lavender or a gobsmacking tropical beach.

His last collection, dubbed “Le Splash,” saw barefoot models treading a blue boardwalk winding across the idyllic beach of Moli’i Garden in Hawaii.

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Known for his sunny designs, Provençal aesthetic and deft grasp of social media, Jacquemus has been teasing his upcoming collaboration with Nike for his 4.6 million followers on Instagram, where the Arles show will be streamed live.
Prepping for the next stage of growth for his 13-year-old brand, Jacquemus recently brought on Paco Rabanne executive Bastien Daguzan as chief executive officer.
The company employs around 100 people at its headquarters in Paris and logistics center in Cavaillon in the South of France. ⁠— MILES SOCHA
SWEENEY ON THE ROAD: Sydney Sweeney appears in Tory Burch’s new digital advertising campaign for the brand’s signature Miller sandals.
As reported, the 24-year-old actress was tapped in April as Burch’s ambassador for the brand’s handbags and shoes.  
In the new campaign entitled “Show Me Your Millers,” Sweeney wears the brand’s cult-favorite Miller sandals. First designed in the early Aughts, the Miller sandals are shown on Sweeney as she hits the road in a baby-blue vintage convertible. The actor and producer packed the trunk (and her T Monogram tool belt), with Millers in every style, from the original sandal in topstitched vachetta leather ($228) to the new Miller Soft with a cushioned sole ($248). While Sweeney changes the tire, she slips into new outfits and Miller sandals.

Sydney Sweeney in Tory Burch’s campaign.
Courtesy of Tory Burch

Sweeney is shown wearing the Millers — in classic black and ivory, clementine, cherry and metallic gold — with cut-off shorts, bra tops and matching knit sets. The campaign, which breaks Thursday, will appear globally on Burch’s owned channels (website, email and social), and the video will run in select Tory Burch store windows.
The campaign was directed by Charlotte Wales and styled by Mel Ottenberg. It was filmed in the deserts of Los Angeles and features the 1982 Missing Persons song, “Walking in L.A.”
“The Millers are our most loved summer sandals, and I was thrilled to work on this free-spired video with Sydney. The campaign highlights all of the reasons people live in their Millers: They’re timeless, super comfortable and make a bold statement,” said Tory Burch,  executive chairman and chief creative officer of Tory Burch LLC.

Sydney Sweeney wears the Miller sandals in Tory Burch’s campaign.
Courtesy of Tory Burch

The “Euphoria” actress previously appeared in Burch’s holiday campaign for its Good Luck trainer collection, which was created with Dazed Media, as reported.

Sweeney appeared in the recent season of “Euphoria,” and got her start in shows like “The Handmaid’s Tale” and “Sharp Objects.” She also had a role in last year’s HBO show, “The White Lotus.”
In April, Sweeney was also tapped by skin care brand Laneige for its first U.S. celebrity partnership. In May, Sweeney appeared in Miu Miu’s first ad campaign dedicated to a statement bag, the Miu Wander. Last year she was the face of Guess, appearing in an ad campaign that paid homage to the late Anna Nicole Smith. ⁠— LISA LOCKWOOD
A WEAVE IN TIME: For its sixth project at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, Loewe and creative director Jonathan Anderson will continue to delve into craft, focusing this time on traditional weaving techniques.
Highlighted throughout “Weave, Restore, Renew” is the idea that repairing is central to being sustainable while bringing uniqueness and extra character, an approach that “sits right at the crossing of respect for the environment and respect for the product,” according to Anderson.
“Across this whole project, we celebrate the regenerative power of handwork. I am proud we have created a series of items that rewire the relation with time, wear and tear, delivering a message of evolution and transformation which is progressive and uplifting,” he continued.
Visitors to the international furniture and interior design trade show will be able to see leather, straw and paper turned into striking functional items.

The ancient Coroza technique is used for hats, baskets and raincoats, here by artisan Alvaro Leiro.
Yago Castromil/Courtesy of Loewe

For “Repaired in Spain,” the Spanish fashion house tasked artisans Idoia Cuesta, Belén Martínez, Santiago Besteiro, Juan Manuel Marcilla with breathing new life into 240 distressed baskets by mending them with leather strips.
Elsewhere, straw was the main material of the “Coroza” series of bags and baskets with distinctive fringing that nods to the ancestral technique of that name from the northwestern Spanish region of Galicia traditionally used to make raincoats, hats and baskets from pliable natural fibers.
In addition to these, 2019 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize finalist Young Soon Lee used recycled newspapers woven using the traditional Korean technique called Jiseung for a series of totes.

Shoppers in Milan will have first dibs on a selection of repaired baskets and small accessories starting Monday at the Loewe flagship on Via Monte Napoleone, with some also available on the brand’s e-commerce, before they become available in other cities including Tokyo, Seoul, New York and Paris.
The Salone del Mobile, which takes place from Tuesday to June 12 at the Fiera Milano exhibition center on the city’s outskirts, is celebrating this year its 60th edition and will be focusing on sustainability, a hot topic not only in fashion but also in design, its president Maria Porro told WWD earlier this year. ⁠— LILY TEMPLETON
MOLLY’S MOMENT: Christie’s will highlight works by fashion designer Molly Goddard in the upcoming “The Art of Literature Exhibition.”
Running from Monday to June 15, the exhibition at Christie’s King Street will showcase a selection of artworks inspired by literature through the ages, from categories including 19th-, 20th- and 21st-century art, Islamic art, books and manuscripts, Old Masters and decorative arts. They will be presented alongside looks from Goddard’s fall 2019 collection, which was inspired by Thomas Hardy’s novel “Tess of the d’Urbervilles.”

Runway at Molly Goddard’s fall 2022 show on Feb. 19, 2022, in London.
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

The British fashion designer said these tulle looks were about being frivolous and fabulous but also strong, tough and resilient — not just surviving but thriving.
“Hardy paints an incredible picture of the English landscape and seasons in ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles.’ The collection was definitely about being wrapped up against the weather physically and metaphorically. The pieces included in the exhibition are a very good representation of what we do best, by which I mean taking simple designs and turning them into something totally different, using techniques like shirring and hand-smocking, or by scaling them up and using unexpected fabrics,” she said.
Annabelle Scholar, co-curator of the exhibition, said: “In this cross-category exhibition spanning thee Millennia, we’re looking at how the written word has inspired artists and creatives to make works of art or bring new meaning to existing works of art. We are thrilled to include these wondrous creations by Molly, pieces which were inspired by a work of literature and ushered in a new era of British fashion.” ⁠— TIANWEI ZHANG

TOP OF THE CROP: Christelle Kocher is adding another feather to her substantial cap — guest creative director of the Tranoï trade show’s September edition.
“Tranoï and Koché hold a common, deep-seated vision and commitment to fashion. We’re united by our values of openness in fashion and our dedication to promoting young designers from around the world,” said the trade show’s chief executive officer Boris Provost in a statement revealing her participation.

Christelle Kocher and Boris Provost
Courtesy of Koché

In addition to picking the 130 labels that will be present at its Palais Brongniart location for the spring 2023 edition running from Sept. 29 to Oct. 2, Kocher will choose a selection of her favorites shown in a dedicated space. A live masterclass is slated on Sept. 29, where she will explore the new challenges of fashion.
“I think everyone should get a chance in fashion, no matter what their background is. Tranoï’s work helping young designers and independent labels can give them the opportunity to become truly worldwide brands,” stated the designer, who is founder and creative director of Koché as well as artistic director of the Chanel-owned feather and flower-maker Lemarié. She was also tasked with reviving French shoemaker Charles Jourdan earlier this year.
Kocher explained that “throwing open fashion’s doors and windows” had been the goal at Koché, which held its first shows as happenings in public spaces like the Chatelet-Les Halles transport hub or a passage rife with local shops in a popular neighborhood.
This is the first time that Tranoï has invited a designer to be its creative director since it was launched in 1991 as a showcase for independent contemporary labels and emerging designers with a focus on craftsmanship and strong identity.
For the trade show, this is a further step in their aim to promote these newer signatures from around the world, continued Provost. It was among the first to return to a physical format in June 2021, with a showcase dedicated to emerging designers as part of a now-ongoing partnership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
Tranoï’s next event is set for June 23 to 26 during the upcoming men’s fashion week, where it will showcase around 40 menswear labels. ⁠— L.T.

Discover Hubert de Givenchy’s Exceptional Collection of Furniture and Artworks Before its Auction

Discover Hubert de Givenchy’s Exceptional Collection of Furniture and Artworks Before its Auction

Ahead of its upcoming auction, Hubert de Givenchy’s exceptional collection of furniture and artworks from his two homes displays the meticulous eye and impeccable taste of the French couturier.
Hubert de Givenchy. Photo: Victor Skrebneski
“Fashion changes, but the 18th century style will endure, as it is of exceptional quality,” Hubert de Givenchy (1927-2018) once said, adding that it be kept light and fresh with contemporary art. The French couturier, who opened his fashion house in 1952, in Paris, and dressed the most elegant women of the late 20th century – among them Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Mona von Bismarck, and the Duchess of Windsor – had always been fascinated by art. He considered it an extension of his own work while also expressing himself through the decor of his own interiors. “I try to achieve harmony between architecture, decoration, and color,” he said. The exceptional furniture and art collection of Monsieur de Givenchy will now be auctioned by Christie’s next month, coinciding with the 70th anniversary of Monsieur de Givenchy’s first haute couture collection, presented in the French capital in 1952. The auction proceeds will go to the family.
At 17, de Givenchy – who was born in Beauvais into an aristocratic family of Venetian origin – moved to the capital, where he studied at the Beaux-Arts de Paris. Throughout his life, he was influenced by the creative legacy of his great-grandfather, who designed stage sets for the Paris Opera, and his grandfather, who was the administrator of the Beauvais Tapestry Factory as well as an avid collector. “My uncle started his collection as soon as he started making money from his fashion company,” explains James de Givenchy. “He was a true collector. He loved acquiring and surrounding himself with objects, furniture, and artworks. It was when he was the happiest.”
Hôtel d’Orrouer. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
Representing more than 1 200 lots, the fine arts and decorative pieces are drawn from two of Monsieur de Givenchy’s most elegant homes: the Hôtel d’Orrouer in Paris and the Château du Jonchet in the Loire Valley that the family still treasures. “Jonchet is our uncle’s most important chef d’oeuvre,” says James de Givenchy. “It is an enormous endeavor we are taking on. Hubert used to say, ‘It is not all to like a house, the house has to like you back.’ Le Jonchet loved him, and it was reciprocal. We hope we can continue being lovely to her.”
A broad variety of periods and styles characterize the pieces on sale, reflecting Hubert de Givenchy’s personal interests. Among them is the bronze Woman Walking (estimate on request) by the couturier’s friend and collaborator Alberto Giacometti, which was a gift to de Givenchy from the great American collector Bunny Mellon – a client who became a very close friend. Also included are Passage of the Migratory Bird (€2 500 000-3 500 000) by Joan Miró and Faun with a Spear (€1 500 000-2 000 000) by Pablo Picasso, as well as Bacchus (€1 500 000-2 500 000) attributed to François Girardon and a gilt bronze center table (€400 000-600 000) by Martin-Guillaume Biennais. Other objects and furniture that celebrate the golden age of French design in the 18th century are also available.
Château du Jonchet. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
“Hubert de Givenchy was fascinated by chairs of any sort and there must be over 100 in the sale,” notes Cécile Verdier, president of Christie’s France. “For Hubert de Givenchy, the chair is also a formidable medium for expressing himself through the choice of fabrics used to dress them. The finest leathers are said to have been embroidered by Monsieur de Givenchy’s glove makers, as on a series of Louis XV period armchairs à la Reine with leather and suede upholstery in three colors.” (Estimate €100 000-200 000 for the six armchairs). As part of a worldwide tour that offers a glimpse of the fashion designer’s world, some highlights from the collection were exhibited in Palm Beach in March and in New York and Los Angeles in April, followed by Hong Kong from May 21-26, before returning to Paris in June.
Monsieur de Givenchy never reached out to advisors to purchase art. He knew exactly what he wanted and gave priority to the Parisian antiquaires, such as Galerie Kugel, Marcel Bissey, Segoura, Alexander & Berendt, Galerie Didier, Aaron Aveline, and Galerie Michel Meyer. “He was a passionate ambassador for all the great French ateliers and craftsmen who have continued the spirit of creative excellence into our time,” adds Verdier. “In the decoration of his homes, Monsieur de Givenchy always considered the furniture in constant dialogue with the works of art, both ancient and modern. I believe this can be considered the common thread between all these fantastic pieces, chosen with a collector’s eye.”
Hôtel d’Orrouer. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
A jewelry designer, James de Givenchy has always considered his uncle to be his hero, describing him as handsome and elegant, soft-spoken and powerful. “With [my brother] Olivier, we would go and visit the couture house on Avenue George V with our mother to see him,” he remembers. “He would come out of the atelier and give us a kiss. The models would run through the hallways to the fitting room laughing and the music would be playing in the background. There were moments of bliss I will never forget.”
Throughout his adult life, James de Givenchy maintained a great relationship with his uncle, constantly learning from his love of beauty and knowledge of history, which imbues this unique collection. Every piece reveals a little bit more about who the couturier was, how he created, and the environments in which he evolved – including his homes. “This summer, the auctions are an opportunity to celebrate Hubert de Givenchy as one of the greatest ambassadors of French taste,” offers Charles Cator, deputy chairman of Christie’s international. “To tell his story of the art of living, collecting, and the elegance he sought to capture in all things.”
Check out some more of the remarkable pieces from Hubert de Givenchy’s collection below.
A first floor lounge in the Hôtel d’Orrouer in Paris. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
The Bunny Mellon bedroom at Château du Jonchet. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
The courtyard lounge in the Hôtel, featuring The Woman Walking by Alberto Giacometti. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
The Château’s Tree of Life bedroom. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
The Red bedroom in the Hôtel. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
François-Xavier Lalanne’s Oiseau de jardin II at the Château. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
A door knocker by Diego Giacometti. Photo: François Halard. Courtesy of Christie’s
Read Next: Remembering Hubert de Givenchy’s Best Looks
Originally published in the May 2022 issue of Vogue Arabia

Diamonds Belonging to French Queen Marie Antoinette to Be Auctioned Soon

Diamonds Belonging to French Queen Marie Antoinette to Be Auctioned Soon

Madame Royale, daughter of Marie Antoinette wearing the diamond bracelets. Photo: Courtesy of Christie’
Diamonds belonging to France’s last queen Marie Antoinette are being auctioned by Christie’s on November 9 in Geneva. To be presented in their current form, the 112 diamonds were once a pair of bracelets that adorned the hands of queen Marie Antoinette. The pieces will form lot 1 of Christie’s live Magnificent Jewels Auction, with an estimated value of US $2,000,000-4,000,000.
Photo: Courtesy of Christie’s
In the spring of 1776, the Queen had bought these two diamond bracelets for the exorbitant sum of 250,000 livres, paid partially by gems from the Queen’s own collection and funds she received from King Louis XVI. At the height of the revolution, the diamonds were sent to Count Mercy-Argenteau, Ambassador of the Austrian Empire for safekeeping and remained untouched until the Queen’s passing. The Queen’s daughter, Madame Royale, then received them upon her arrival in Austria. Madame Royale then passed them on to her nieces and nephews, the Count and Countess of Chambord and the Duchess of Parma.
Photo: Courtesy of Christie’s
“Over the past 255 years, Christie’s have offered many Historic Jewels from Royal Houses around the world. It is a privilege to be able to offer these exceptional and unique bracelets for sale at Christie’s where they will attract bidding from collectors globally. As seen in recent Geneva sales, the market for jewels of noble provenance continues to perform extremely well,” said François Curiel, Chairman Christie’s Luxury.
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Christie’s to Sell L’Wren Scott Designs, Jackets Made for Mick Jagger

Christie’s to Sell L’Wren Scott Designs, Jackets Made for Mick Jagger

LONDON — Designs by the late L’Wren Scott will go under the hammer at Christie’s London in June in a sale initiated by Scott’s longtime partner Mick Jagger.
The L’Wren Scott Collection will be sold online from June 9 to July 1, and comprises 55 curated lots designed by Scott between 2008 and 2014. Christies said the auction is meant to “celebrate her legacy as a highly respected couturier and stylist.”
Proceeds from the sale will be donated to the L’Wren Scott MA Fashion Scholarship at Central Saint Martins, a scholarship set up in memory of Scott by Jagger in 2015.
Each year, the scholarship aims to support a student to reach his or her potential “in the highly competitive environment of fashion.”

One of the jackets designed by L’Wren Scott for Mick Jagger. 
Image Courtesy of Christie’s

The 55 pieces in the sale were worn by L’Wren and by her clients in fashion, film and music. Scott, a former model who died aged 49 in 2014, was famous for her red carpet designs, curvy, sculptural silhouettes — and host of Hollywood fans.
She dressed actors including Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Penélope Cruz, Amy Adams, Ellen Barkin and Renèe Zellweger.
Jagger described the upcoming auction as “a celebration of L’Wren’s remarkable work, and a wonderful opportunity for the public to see and enjoy her creations.”

One of the jackets designed by L’Wren Scott for Mick Jagger. 
Image Courtesy of Christie’s

He described Scott as a “talented and passionate designer with a keen eye for detail. Everyone who wore her dresses was at the center of her designs. She created beautiful pieces that were the epitome of elegance and sophistication, yet with a contemporary feel. I’m delighted the proceeds of this auction are going to benefit young students, helping to nurture emerging talents in fashion.”
The top lots are two bespoke stage jackets that Scott custom-designed especially for Jagger. The sales estimate is 20,000 pounds to 30,000 pounds each.
One of them is the “glamouflage” jacket, which is made of black satin and is beaded, densely sequined and embroidered with oak-leaf motifs in shades of green, black and khaki.
Jagger wore it during The Rolling Stones’ headline performance at Glastonbury in 2013.

A Never-Before-Seen Opportunity for Lovers of Luxury Watches and Fine Art

A Never-Before-Seen Opportunity for Lovers of Luxury Watches and Fine Art

Louvre Partnership x Vac 2020 Christie’s Experience

A bespoke, one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin watch is up for auction at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Its Les Cabinotiers watch, whose dial reproduces in miniature enamel an artwork kept in the Louvre Museum and chosen by its buyer, is part of the Bid For The Louvre auction on until December 15.
“Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers watch is the only horological lot among the unique and exclusive pieces put up for auction,” shares Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director for Vacheron Constantin. “This participation was a natural choice for the manufacture, testifying to its profound attachment to art and culture as well as its concern for safeguarding and passing on heritage in all its forms.”
A mock-up of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers watch.

Donated on behalf of the Swiss watch brand, which has been a partner of the Louvre since 2019, it will join other bids, with the aim to bolster arts and culture and celebrate beauty and art. It presents a unique opportunity for the future owner to experience an unforgettable artistic exchange between Paris and Geneva.
“We are proud to be taking part along other artists and maisons in this exceptional auction organized by the Louvre and Christie’s in support of the museum’s solidarity projects,” comments Louis Ferla, Vacheron Constantin CEO. “Our ongoing commitment to art and the transmission of savoir-faire – which has been expressed alongside the Louvre since the announcement of our partnership a year ago – takes on even greater significance within a global context that is troubled and challenging in more ways than one. Putting up for auction a Les Cabinotiers timepiece based on a masterpiece, a one-of-a-kind model personalized in accordance with the acquirer’s wishes, symbolizes the identity of our maison and its mission to promote the sharing of culture and emotions.” The owner will also be able to choose the case material of platinum, pink, or white gold, have an engraving made on the officer-type case-back; and choose the strap from a selection of various materials and colors.
Autumn by Giuseppe Arcimboldo

The successful bidder will start their journey in Paris with a private visit to the Louvre, led by its best expert. There, they will select the piece to be reproduced in enamel on the dial. Known as the Geneva technique, and dating from the 18th century, this miniature enamel is done by only the most experienced artisan masters of both pigment and fire. One of the main challenges consists in composing a color palette compliant with the original shades of the work, while remaining keenly aware that the multiple firings in the kiln at over 800°C are liable to alter its color and brilliance share the team behind Vacheron Constatin. Grisaille enamel as a craft, appeared in the 16th century and consists of superimposing touches of a rare white enamel on a layer of dark enamel coating the gold dial base. Each layer of enamel is then fired in a kiln, timed to the second.
100% of the sale proceeds of the Christie’s auction will support the solidarity projects of Le Louvre.
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