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Browns Reveals Exclusive Gucci Cosmogonie Edit With Installation on Brook Street Flagship

Browns Reveals Exclusive Gucci Cosmogonie Edit With Installation on Brook Street Flagship

While speculation about Alessandro Michele exiting Gucci, first reported by WWD, will for sure be a buzzy topic during Thanksgiving dinners for fashion lovers, some retailers are confident in the brand’s current maximalist aesthetic.

British fashion retailer Browns on Thursday will unveil its 27-piece exclusive edit on both menswear and womenswear from the Gucci resort 2023 Cosmogonie collection with an immersive installation in pop-up space The Focus Room, which is located on the ground floor of its flagship store on Brook Street in London.

The installation takes cues from the connections between the stars that make up constellations that inspired the collection that was presented at the site of the 13th-century Castel del Monte in Apulia, Italy.

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Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns, said Gucci is one of the retailer’s oldest legacy brands, and they are “big fans of Michele’s universe.”

“He is a storyteller like no other, dreaming up not just collections but worlds, which makes the brand a perfect collaborator for the immersive experience taking place in The Focus Room. Celebrating our partnership with this rare opportunity to offer customers a unique and comprehensive edit created just for Browns, we are so excited to welcome Gucci back, this time in our new forever home on Brook Street,” she added.

Highlights in the edit for women include a monogrammed wool lamé cape jacket, a deep green crushed velvet oversize ensemble, an oversize reversible faux fur bomber jacket, a greige tiered tulle top and an arctic blue leather dress with lace detailing. The men’s offering comes with a velvet suiting reimagined in dark nude, knitted crew necks, printed silk bowling shirt and shorts sets.

The popular bag styles of Gucci Diana and Jackie 1961 will also be available at Browns for the first time together with the edit launch.

In Copenhagen, a New Look and New Guard

In Copenhagen, a New Look and New Guard

COPENHAGEN, Denmark — The old system has gone out the window and the guard has changed. This was the overarching theme during the latest iteration of Copenhagen Fashion Week, which, in a moment of serendipity, got to welcome international press and buyers just as the Danish government announced the lifting of all COVID-19 related restrictions. 
The mood was celebratory — handshakes, hugs and even late-night parties were back in full force — but change was also in the air, along with a feeling that nothing would ever be quite the same again.
It came from seeing some of the city’s biggest names, from Ganni to Rotate, choosing to skip the catwalk in favor of more democratic, digital presentations and a conviction to continue running their businesses on their own terms — and timelines — post-pandemic.

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Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: (di)vision

But there was still plenty to see on the runway, including an array of fledgling designers, from local label (di)vision to Swedish up-and-comer Jade Cropper. They are coming onto the fashion scene with a global outlook from the get-go and an edgier look that’s very much aligned with the TikTok-approved Y2K aesthetic.
Their influence is clearly trickling down to the street style scene, which put the Danish capital in the international spotlight to begin with. The changing of the guard was clear across the streets and front rows this season: Candy colors, Instagram influencers and all things saccharine were replaced by a new generation of creatives with a flair for darker, austere silhouettes; ’90s sunglasses worn indoors; balaclavas, and the latest sneaker drops.
Danish fashion figures, both new and established, seem up for the change, showing unanimous support for the new talent on the calendar while having open conversations about the work that still needs to be done to make fashion less wasteful and more equitable, and grounding their aesthetics to suit the new climate. It’s this embrace of the future that’s giving Copenhagen Fashion Week lasting power, and slowly but surely establishing the city as “the fifth fashion capital” — as Swiss native and Browns buying director Ida Petersson put it.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: the street style scene

One of the hottest tickets of the week was knitwear specialist and Cecilie Bahnsen alumnus A. Roege Hove.
For her second show, Copenhagen native Amalie Roege Hove staged an intimate runway show in the city’s famous Christiania region, showing evolved versions of her signature knits, loosely draped around the body, cut in just the right places, and stretching to fit all body types.
“I get inspiration by how the pieces fit different bodies. I find it so beautiful that the knit can adapt depending on the shape of the wearer’s body,” said the young designer, who offers her signature ribbed knits across two sizes intended to fit a range of sizes.
Her approach to knitwear felt fresh and the products had commercial legs while still offering a more directional point of view — something the city, best known for its contemporary offering, has lacked.
(Di)vision, too, with its alien-themed collection of patchwork leather trenches, split bomber jackets and fierce minidresses, added a needed spirit of experimentation to the city’s lineup. 

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: (di)vision

These brands presented their new collections on people of varying ages, genders and sizes — casting friends, team members and a more diverse set of models. It felt like second nature to these young designers rather than a tick-box exercise.
At Ganni’s “Love Forever” digital presentation there was also an array of body types dancing in the brand’s new fall range, from pop star Jada to her backup dancers and models. Ditto for Soulland, which makes a point to do its casting in-house and tap people from its own communities or Instagram before reaching out to traditional modeling agencies; and Saks Potts, which showed its new, more grounded aesthetic on mostly friends and colleagues.
“It’s such a different cast of girls. The atmosphere here feels like an airport, with people coming in from all over the world, each with their own personality. We don’t want to show a group who all feel like they have to look the same to feel they can belong,” said Catherine Saks, pointing to the brand’s more practical approach to clothing, with leather separates or hunting-inspired tweed tailoring that busy women, like herself, can live in — and in true Danish style, ride their bikes in. She added that U.S. and U.K. buyers have been responding well to the new direction, during last week’s sales campaign.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: Saks Potts

There was a focus on up-and-coming talent throughout the schedule of shows and events. The Designers’ Nest showcase highlighted a group of young talent and named three winners who will go on to receive cash prizes and mentorship. Designer Boram Yoo took home the grand prize of 50,000 Danish krona with a collection that explored the history of forced labor uniforms in Korea.
Frederik Taus, who stood out for his playful approach and vibrant colors, won the Browns Fashion Award and will be stocked at the London boutique, as well as receive the added benefits of mentorship and a full pre-payment on the order. Rintaro Lino was another winner, picked by Trussardi creative directors Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işik of GmbH for the internship award. He will work alongside the duo on Trussardi’s relaunch.
Copenhagen Fashion Week also celebrated a new partnership with the Swedish Fashion Council, an incubator for young talent. Jade Cropper, who is part of the program, made her debut this season and caught the eye of international attendees for her grungy take on glamour, all about dangerously high slits, vintage-style denim and fierce leather looks. Her Y2K aesthetic might have been familiar, but she offered a fresh perspective by presenting it on women of all ages.

Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2022: Jade Cropper

“It’s a new era for us and we want to keep this dialogue going between Denmark and Sweden,” said Copenhagen Fashion Week chief executive officer Cecilie Thorsmark, at a dinner held at the Swedish Embassy to celebrate the partnership between the two countries’ fashion industries and local talent like Cropper.  
The new blood might have been the talk of the town, but that’s not to say that the city’s mainstays are out of the picture. Even if many of the major names sat the season out or focused on digital presentations, they have been working to evolve their designs for the post-pandemic era and plotting major global expansion plans behind the scenes.
Danish fashion darling Cecilie Bahnsen, for one, is preparing for her big Paris catwalk debut but made her presence felt in the city with the launch of the photography book she has been working on with Japan-based Takashi Homma and a dinner held with Danish jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe, where guests wore her romantic puff-sleeve dresses with Bille Brahe’s signature pearls and ate oysters and lobster pasta under candlelight. 
Remain was also forging ahead with its sales campaign and said it’s on track to double its revenues, carving a clear niche with its competitive price points and high-quality leather separates that come in a mix of neutrals and more trendy, bright colors. Sister label Rotate — which started with a small dress capsule a mere three years ago — is now entering new markets like Russia and India, extending its offer to swim and bridalwear, and plotting a global partnership with Havaianas.

A preview of the Rotate fall 2022 campaign.
Courtesy of Rotate

Samsøe Samsøe, which has tapped designer Meme Fagiuoli as its new creative director, is plotting new store openings in Paris and the U.S. for later in the year, as well as an expansion into accessories, in a bid to continue the brand’s growth trajectory. According to the company’s CEO Peter Sextus, the last two decades saw Samsøe Samsøe grow from a 1.5 million euro business to a 140 million euro turnover recorded in this financial year.
As for Stine Goya, she was back on the official schedule after a brief hiatus and showed one of her most confident collections to date — aligned with the brand’s ambitious expansion goals in the U.K. and the U.S.

Acknowledging the changed landscape without letting go of her flair for bright colors and even brighter patterns, Goya offered loose tailoring in bold primary colors; a charming new hobo bag design; as well as cool puffers and tracksuits that will likely grab the attention of the younger generation who are now setting the fashion agenda.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: Stine Goya

Baum und Pferdgarten, one of the most established names in the Danish scene, was also feeling confident and upbeat, offering one of their most directional collections to date, juxtaposing traditional puffers and technical garments in glossy reds and pinks, with more delicate sequins, transparent fabrics and funky miniskirts that had a whiff of Miu Miu but were nonetheless charming.
“We just want to offer special pieces. In reality, nobody needs more clothes, so we are thinking about longevity and the sustainability aspect more than ever,” said Baum designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave backstage.
Longevity and elevating the quality of garments was a running theme for many of Copenhagen’s established names, who are now expanding their design teams with more international talent and looking to complement their existing contemporary collections with more elevated, design-led pieces.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: Baum und Pferdgarten

Influencer and designer Sophia Roe was all about stepping away from ephemeral social media trends and offering seasonless staples for her new label, The Garment, with a fall collection of androgynous pinstripe tailoring; elegant silk blouses, and tweed separates. “We’ve grown up with midcentury furniture and all these classic pieces that stay with us for generations. I wanted to bring the same approach to clothing,” added Roe, whose new line is being picked up by the likes of Ssense, Luisa Via Roma and The Frankie Shop.
Oslo, Norway-based Holzweiler was one of the most successful in this quest for elevation, adding hand-painted prints, heat-reactive fabrics and one-of-a-kind leather pieces, treated to have a worn, vintage effect.
“We are at a place where we can do more exclusive pieces and make a statement that we want to create these more expensive, special products rather than go too wide and go down on the quality,” said the label’s designer Maria Skappel Holzweiler, adding that the brand still wants to hold on to its open, democratic approach by offering its customers the chance to rent runway samples for a fraction of the retail price.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: Holzweiler

“We are heavily investing in our design and technical teams to elevate everything we have done in the past and showcase the future with more technical fabrics and exclusive pieces,” she added, pointing to new-season knits that were strategically torn to feel well-loved and almost pre-used. “We want to promote this idea that used items still have value and inspire our audience to find beauty in their worn-out items or try to give them new life. It’s important to think that way when designing for the future.”

Copenhagen Fashion Week, fall 2022: A. Roege Hove

Manu Atelier, Rotate Collaborate on Shoe Capsule

Manu Atelier, Rotate Collaborate on Shoe Capsule

LONDON — Two buzzy young labels, four very stylish women and lots of Instagram cred: The collaboration between Danish ready-to-wear label Rotate and Istanbul favorite Manu Atelier was a no-brainer.
Both brands have been on the rise in the last five years. Rotate creative directors Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars had also taken part in Manu Atelier digital campaigns, in their influencer capacity, so there was already plenty of common ground to build from.
Now, the duo joined forces with Manu Atelier cofounders and sisters Merve and Beste Manastir Bagdatli to create their first shoe capsule.
“For our first collaboration we wanted to align ourselves with the right brand and Rotate was the perfect fit in terms of brand values and purpose. We also love the fact that they are two female founders: any excuse for us to work and support women. All four of us being women meant we could get in our customers’ shoes — literally — and create the perfect summer footwear collection: Shoes that are made to empower, by ensuring that the cuts and lines are flattering,” the Manastir sisters said.

Their concept was simple: easygoing heels, bold colors and pure fun. This translated into lace-up sandals adorned with metallic printed fabrics from the Rotate fall 2021 collection; pumps in croc-effect leather, and bold patent leather boots featuring color-blocked heels.

Rotate x Manu Atelier 
Courtesy of Manu Atelier

“It’s really about fun, injecting colors and really embracing life especially after over a year of living in leggings and wearing trainers. I think this pandemic really inspired us to create an uplifting collection and inspire freedom,” added the Manastirs, who have just opened their first flagship store in Istanbul and have been among the few contemporary accessories designers to keep the momentum up, even as the market swings back to luxury.
For Madsen and Valdimars, this was an opportunity to learn more about the technical aspects of shoemaking. They embraced a comfort-first approach, just like they’ve been doing with their party wear for Rotate.
“We wanted to offer a small line up of shoes that could complete any look and could be mixed and matched with Rotate’s ready-to-wear pieces,” said the designers, who will be returning to the catwalk next week during Copenhagen Fashion Week. “We also wanted to create a more subtle party shoe, in light of everything that happened in the recent months: These are shoes that work for many different occasions, and can be worn season-after-season. The design philosophy was the same as Rotate, bold with fabulous details yet still easy to wear.”

Rotate x Manu Atelier 
Courtesy of Manu Atelier

Rotate started with a small edit of contemporary-priced dresses that stood out for their playful, party spirit — think sequins, extra large shoulders and mini silhouettes. Since then, they’ve become Copenhagen Fashion Week’s hottest ticket, expanded their range to separates and lounge wear, and worked with partners like Net-a-porter, Bergdorf Goodman and Mytheresa. This is their first foray into footwear, and there’s interest to “explore further,” according to Valdimars and Madsen.
The collection will make its debut on Aug. 4 at Browns and across both brands’ e-commence channels. Prices range from 345 euros to 420 euros.

To mark the launch, the designers also worked with the content creator Jen Ceballos on a digital campaign that will be released at the same time.
“We’ve all been working with Jen separately for a while now and love her energy and aesthetic. We are always drawn to her imagery and how she plays with the lighting around her body in a very feminine way, so we felt she was the perfect embodiment of both brands,” added the Manastir sisters.

The Next Big Things, According to Browns

The Next Big Things, According to Browns

LONDON — Fall 2021 is primed to be a “happier” season and, in preparation, Browns is launching new names, categories and the best of the mega brands.
The ultimate aim? To bring back the elements of discovery and joy in shopping, and to cater to all types of women, from the purists to the exhibitionists.
“It’s really important to continue to pick up newness. It’s more important now than ever to keep customers engaged and excited,” said Ida Petersson, the retailer’s buying director. “And as we move on to the new season, designers have been more experimental. For spring, everyone was more safe because they got smacked in the face with COVID-19 and tried to adapt with what they already had. But now excitement is back.”

This means a strong party wear edit with crystal Versace or Area party dresses, plenty of stringy little black dresses from up-and-comer Nensi Dojaka and LaQuan Smith statement pieces.
“It’s all about those crazy, full-on ‘I’m going out and I’m proud’ LaQuan pieces,” said Petersson, also pointing to other young names like Knwls, Thebe Magugu and Maximilian.
“Maximilian is going from strength to strength to strength. It’s designed for real women; he really thinks about how it’s going to look on different sizes — and we really started looking at what sizes a brand offers, to be able to celebrate women in every size.”

Browns’ new season campaign. 
Courtesy of Browns

For all the fresh talent Browns is launching for fall, there are also plenty of familiar names.
“Still obsessed with Bottega,” said Petersson, adding that the buzz around Daniel Lee’s collections isn’t going away anytime soon. She also name-checked the likes of Valentino, Prada, Chloé and Celine as her fall highlights.  “I think Hedi [Slimane] has really found himself, and [discovered] who this new Celine woman is.”
New York-based Khaite is also establishing itself among the luxury players, as far as Browns is concerned, and it has bought deeply into the brand’s fall cashmere and trendy clogs.
There is plenty of newness in the accessories world, too, with names like Tabitha Ringwood, known for her sculptural heels; Angelo Figus, a footwear label from the ’80s that is making a comeback, and Petit Kouraj, a conscious bag label offering exuberant macramé fringe bags.
“There’s definitely been a narrowing down in that entire contemporary accessory world and people have changed the ways they shop and engage with those brands, especially bag brands — because there weren’t as many Instagram moments,” Petersson said.
Brands like Jacquemus, By Far or Italian boot label Paris Texas remained strong, but as the market builds itself back up again, there will be a bigger expectation for brands to provide a unique selling point.
“Brands will need to have a really strong identity, that’s maybe not inspired by Bottega or whatever else is trending. I think people have had time to save up for Bottega instead of buying three contemporary-priced pieces,” Petersson said. “There’s still a lot of opportunity for someone who is clear about who they are.”
Outside its core fashion offer, Browns is also continuing to build out an array of adjacent categories from sport to resort, homeware and a soon-to-launch new kids wear offer — all in the name of inclusivity and offering “something for everyone.”

When it comes to resort, a host of new swim brands will be launching soon, from minimalist favorites like Jade Swim to Rielli, a Miami-based brand favored by the Hadids and the Jenner sisters for its bold cuts and colors. It will be a Browns exclusive in the U.K. until October 2022.
Loungewear remains relevant, too, and is expanding as a category with a host of conscious labels like Come Back As a Flower, known for its bright patterns; Copenhagen-based OpéraSport; and Lisa Yang, who is all about chic, fuss-free silhouettes.

Browns’ new season campaign. 
Courtesy of Browns

“People are changing the way they dress. There are those who want to throw on that glitz and glam again, but there’s also the people who might have changed their style a little bit to something more fluid and easy going,” Petersson said. “We’re still going to be working from home a lot more, and will still want to look good, so it was important for us to address that.”
To that end, the retailer’s home section is quickly filling up, too. As dinners and hosting resume, the Browns team has been building a wider tabletop collection too, with labels like Snoopy Studio, Vaisselle, Ka Na and Les Ottomans.
“Again you have something for every woman, from minimalistic to quirky to mismatched patterns for the bohemians,” Petersson said. “We want everyone to be able to come in and find something new that will appeal to them, be it luxury or something a little more unexpected. It’s less about a price point and more about feeling and personality. That’s why we’ve mixed it all together and [encourage] customers to fall in love with the piece rather than the name. Fashion, especially today, should be about discovery.”

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