Accessory Trends

Fall 2022 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations

Fall 2022 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations

PARIS — A spirited energy surrounded not only fashion show venues but also showrooms and presentations here, as accessories brands resumed their bustling in-person showcases.Collections reflected this return to social life in different ways, the flashier of which was a reprise in full force of fancy high heels and party-ready , rich in metallic, holographic and sparkly effects. Two certainties here: platforms are back and there’s no sneaker in sight for next season.
On the flip side of the coin, the resumption of daily routines also pushed brands in the opposite direction to include functional styles that could make life easier, especially when it came to handbags.
Meanwhile, changes over the last two years pushed both customers and companies toward a more conscious path in terms of valuing quality, timeless design and find additional purpose in products, as seen in jewelry lines that were charged with philanthropic or spiritual messages.

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Here, WWD rounds up some of the highlights seen in Paris during the past week:
Roger Vivier: Creative director Gherardo Felloni conceived another dreamy, Marie Antoinette-esque collection rich in candy-colored satin fabrics, crystals appliqués, embroideries and feathers. While the statement shoe of the season was the Choc Feathers Pump — featuring a swan-like silhouette, the brand’s signature Choc curved heel and feathers applied by hand — there were plenty of dazzling options such as satin pumps scattered with crystal embellishments, square-toed mules and sandals bejeweled with boxy ornaments on the heel and pointy sling-back shoes mixing PVC elements with feminine sparkly bows on the front. Even low-heeled styles were mood-boosting with their charming pastel hues or crystal buckles, while clutches spotlighted the brand’s all-around craftsmanship via embroideries and rhinestones galore.

Styles from the Roger Vivier fall 2022 collection.
Kevin Tachman/Courtesy of Roger Vivier

Christian Louboutin: For fall, Christian Louboutin partnered with Parisian artist Yaz Bukey to release an eclectic capsule collection titled “Loubi Mystery.” Winking to an Ottoman influence and exploring the theme of murder-mystery games, the range included bold styles, such as sandals with a metallic embroidery platform heel or covered in Arabic mosaic-like motifs, as well as velvet loafers replicating the pattern of Oriental carpets. Putting a strong focus on platforms, the range included sandals with translucent heels chiseled in botanical patterns and ankle boots covered in fun symbols and thought bubbles.

A style from the Christian Louboutin fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Christian Louboutin

By Far: Buzzy contemporary label By Far further upped the glamour ante for fall as founders Valentina Ignatova and Sabina Gyosheva released an extensive, cool collection focusing on liquified, metallics effect and glossy textures. The brand continued to build on the ’90s and Y2K references with baguette bags in extra-long shapes and high- and mid-heeled mules in punchy colors, ranging from neon green to bubblegum pink. The boots of the season, over-the-knee styles in sleek gold or silver hues, were made for walking, yes, but with extra self-confidence. The design is sure the gain the favor of fashion personalities fan of the brand, including Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber. To further intercept this audience, By Far will open its first flagship store in Los Angeles in May.

The By Far statement boots.
Courtesy of By Far

Alexandre Birman: “No more sneakers, women are back to the heels,” said Alexandre Birman, who during Paris Fashion Week displayed plenty of options to help his customers to mark this return. Phasing out exotic skins, the designer reworked leather in metallic and holographic effects in platform sandals — including a rendition of the brand’s signature Clarita style — and eye-catching designs with sculptural wedges. Elsewhere, he bejeweled stiletto heels with crystal rings or elevated velvet mules with dazzling buckles. “It’s all about cycles and this is a post-COVID-19 return to more eccentric styles. And I believe it is here to stay for a while,” the Brazilian designer said.

A style from the Alexandre Birman fall 2022 collection.
Marc Patrick/Courtesy of Alexandre Birman

Repossi: For the first time, Gaia Repossi explored color in her new Chromatic Sapphires collection. For the 15th anniversary as artistic director of the family business, Repossi partnered with Moyo Gems Organization, an association fighting for the working condition of women in the jewelry industry and especially in Tanzania’s Umba Valley, where the 31 sapphires included in the line were extracted. Coming in beautiful shades of tangerine, red, military green and blue-veering-to-gray hues, these sapphires offered a new take on the brand’s Serti sur Vide collection, which is defined by the floating effect of the gems’ setting. From rings to earrings, 15 unique limited-edition pieces highlighted the different colors and form of the sapphires, which were cut in rounded, oval, heart or pear shapes.

A design from Repossi’s Chromatic Sapphires collection.
Courtesy of Repossi

Eéra: Romy Blanga and Chiara Capitani continued to expand their brand’s range beyond its signature neon-hued earrings. For fall, they introduced pearls, keeping their fun approach to fine jewelry by including them in utilitarian designs. Cue to the new “Vita” necklace in which pearls surrounded a single gold snap hook — still the key element of the brand. “We liked the idea of having this kind of contrast between a classic gemstone, but used with a punk spirit, and the color of the snap hook,” Capitani said. A butterfly motif also debuted in the fall range, decorating necklaces and accenting stud earrings with its green, pink, purple and electric blue hues, as sported by Laetitia Casta’s daughter Sahteene Sednaoui in the brand’s advertising campaign.

A style from the Eéra fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Eéra

Medea: Italian label Medea continues to grasp buyers’ attention with its youthful and irreverent spirit injected in pop handbags. Launched in 2018 with the hit leather iteration of a paper bag, the brand evolved via sleek geometric styles that for fall were joined by new, softer shapes and materials. For one, founders Camilla and Giulia Venturini introduced satin in the Bucket style — offered in lovely combinations of yellow with green and fuchsia with red — and in the Charlie shoulder bag, which featured contrasting eco-leather lining and strategic side pockets to immediately find your iPhone or home keys. The duo also developed the jumbo Crush tote bag made of recycled toilet paper and cigarette packets, and reinterpreted bestsellers Classics and Cydonia in vegan apple skin leather. In sync with their playful attitude, the Venturinis released Medealand, a 40-page print publication developed with Maurizio Cattelan’s art magazine Toiletpaper that doubles as surrealist and fun look book.

Medea’s Bucket style as seen in Medealand.
Courtesy of Medea

Charles Jourdan: One of the biggest news items of the season was historic French footwear label Charles Jourdan’s comeback under the new artistic direction of fashion designer Christelle Kocher. The new course of the brand initiated with wearable and colorful designs with an architectural touch. Kocher revamped a graphic logo from the ‘70s that appeared as a buckle, elevating essential flats and sandals, as well as conceived sculptural, metallic heels that echoed the work of minimalist artist Donald Judd and architect Eileen Gray. Eye-catching options included a pointy style crafted from orange bouclé wool, a flat sling-back in multicolored jacquard and multistrip heeled sandals, which are all set to attract a new generation of consumers to the 101-year-old brand.

A style by Charles Jourdan’s fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Charles Jourdan

Nodaleto: “Since the beginning, we focused on smart styles, but you can be both smart and sexy,” said Julia Toledano, who added some metallic and sparkly effects to her signature square-toe, block-heeled designs that took Instagram by storm since the brand launched in 2019. While its popular mary janes were rendered in holographic textures, flashy fuchsia or forest green satin sling-back styles offered another appealing take on the brand’s aesthetics, which was further enhanced by loafers and laced boots punctuated with colored rhinestones. But Toledano also included more quotidian options via suede designs with contrasting soles. “There are different characters and aesthetics in my head. I can be this girl and this one,” she said showing a glittery shoe in one hand and a suede ankle boot in the other.

A style from the Nodaleto fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Nodaleto

Delvaux: In its elegant presentation staged in a “Hotel Particulier” decorated with statement furnishing by interior designer Maria Pergay, Belgian luxury handbag label Delvaux spotlighted its craftsmanship via a fall collection offering both sparkly options and everyday styles. Bedazzling embellishments revamped the brand’s iconic Brilliant bag, which this season was rendered in a mini size covered in multicolored or black crystals. Even without all the glitz, the Pin bucket bag, first created in 1972, shone with its new perforated structure and chic neutral leather tones, while a Pin Swing variant introduced for fall charmed with its bright shades of pink, yellow and baby blue. Also new, the Lingot leather style inspired by the brand’s ‘70s archives made for a functional, compact bag oozing urban sophistication with its essential lines and oversize “D” buckle made out of a single brass bar.

The Pin bucket bag by Delvaux.
Courtesy of Delvaux

Pierre Hardy: Graphic platforms stood out at Pierre Hardy, where chunky loafers and ankle boots represented a gender-inclusive offering via sizes ranging from 36 to 47. The fall collection also included the ‘90s-inspired, retro-futuristic Blade boots in off-white leather and graphic, minimal heels as well as strappy sandals in metallic hues. Preppy loafers, appropriately dubbed Eton, played with the contrasting colors the footwear maverick is best known for, while the designer continued to prove his sustainability commitment adding new styles developed with deadstock fabrics, such as open-toe pumps covered in leopard print.

The Janis boots by Pierre Hardy.
Courtesy of Pierre Hardy

Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s polished taste and minimalist flair has worked wonders for Florentine footwear label Gia Borghini, which is at its fourth collaboration with the model and actress. Drawing from Borghini’s and Huntington-Whiteley’s mutual penchant for architecture and interior design, the collection included platform boots and sandals nodding to wooden elements as well as more feminine boots and sling-back options with curved heels, all charming in their sophisticated palette of chocolate, olive green, white and purple shades.

A style from the fourth Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley collection.
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Gia Borghini: Looking for unfussy, practical styles to face the wintery season, Gia Borghini and the brand’s creative consultant, Danish influencer Pernille Teisbaek, developed a cool collection of functional boots fitted both for mountain peaks in St. Moritz and the streets of London or New York. Focusing on a palette of butter, beige, forest green and sky blue tones, the leather styles came with chunky smooth or lug soles. A range of sporty sunglasses developed with niche eyewear specialist Ophy was added to complete the look.

A style from the Gia Borghini fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Wandler: Amsterdam-based Wandler keeps drawing attention for its modernist aesthetic channeled via sleek, minimal bags and squared-toe shoes, that keep fueling the sales of the brand distributed in more than 200 wholesale doors. For fall, Elza Wandler released a mini size of the bestselling cross-body bag Penelope, as well as introduced the Uma baguette style and Joanna bag, both imbued with a laid-back attitude. The shoe collection surprised with new Swarovski-encrusted sandals, while the founder further expanded her lexicon with a concise capsule collection of leather apparel separates, including a must-have pant in burgundy shade.

A style from the Wandler fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Wandler

Kassl Editions: Kassl may have started developing handbags as a creative way to repurpose fabric leftovers from its signature fisherman’s coats, but there’s no doubt that this side project has grown to be as compelling as the brand’s main apparel line. The functional range of coated cotton tote bags — including the puffy Pillow designs — and hobo styles now also comprises more compact options in stiffer leather but still oozing the same cool vibe that put the Amsterdam-based label on the fashion map in the first place.

A style from Kassl Editions.
Courtesy of Kassl Editions

Vanina: “Après la pluie, le beau temps,” or “after the storm, the sun rises again,” in English, was the motto of the Vanina collection. The Lebanese company has kept going despite instability in the country, continuing to partner with local artisans to develop its handmade pieces and mood-boosting collections. For fall, structured bags in geometrical shapes were covered in rainbow-colored pearls or rhinestones, while softer options further revealed the artisanal approach of the brand as they were crafted with a beading technique, often reporting fun phrases emphasizing Vanina’s playful spirit. The same embellishments were introduced in a footwear range, that added to the recently launched clothing line and marked another step in the expansion of the company established by Tatiana Fayad and Joanne Hayek in 2007.

A Vanina style for fall 2022.
Courtesy of Vanina

L’Atelier Nawbar: Another Lebanese sensation, fine-jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar, keeps drawing an international audience to its colorful creations with a talismanic quality. The brand, which boasts a heritage dating back to 1891 and has been revamped to charm modern customers by the fourth generation of Nawbars, uses gemstones such as malachite, mother-of-pearl, tourmaline, lapis and agate, each linking to healing properties and positive energy. In addition to bestsellers nodding to astrology, the four elements or lucky symbols, the company has released the Lock’in line of geometric pendants and rings, each intended to bring a customer’s wish into the universe. Coming in Art Deco-reminiscent motifs, including stripes or zigzag patterns, all pieces were marked on the back by words including love, joy and strength.

The Lock’in line by L’Atelier Nawbar.
Courtesy of L’Atelier Nawbar

Celine Daoust: In a similar approach, Celine Daoust showed a spiritual jewelry collection in its Parisian boutique. The brand has released a line dubbed “Dream Maker” that included single hoop earrings, bracelets and pendants with open-eye or moon motifs, all crafted in 14-karat light yellow gold and embellished with marquise-cut diamonds and dangling details.

Styles from the Dream Maker line by Celine Daoust.
Courtesy of Celine Daoust

Pupchen: During the first lockdown in 2020, Tunisian architect Duha Bukadi had plenty of time to design. In addition to buildings, she started to explore the world of footwear, with a goal of combining structure and comfort. Pupchen, her shoe line debuting at Paris Fashion Week that was marked by playful and eccentric high-heeled styles, included over-the-knee boots with whimsical drawings of frogs, planets and flowers, as well as metallic mules and pumps with wavy plexiglass or lollipop-inspired structures as heels. “The goal is for our woman to be noticed and for us to create shoes that can spark a conversation,” Bukadi said. Working with different suppliers, including Massaro — part of Chanel’s Métiers d’Art at Le 19M — Italian manufacturer Ballin and Atelier Lebuisson for embroideries, Bukadi developed her fantasy line while also taking into consideration sustainable aspects. “Initially, I wanted to do a vegan brand, but it didn’t work out because the quality of the products was not as we wanted to be,” she said, switching to a step-by-step approach via the inclusion of chrome-free tanned leather or using waste material from factories in her creations, among others.

A style by Pupchen.
Courtesy of Pupchen

J.M. Weston: Even heritage footwear brand J.M. Weston stepped into high heel territory for the first time by offering a feminine take on its signature Cambre ankle boot, an equestrian style first created in 1969 that features an upper cut from a single piece of leather. The women’s version of this timeless design was celebrated with the poetic performance “Portrait en Pied,” conceived by the brand’s artistic, image and culture director Olivier Saillard in collaboration with actress Sonia Ichti and staged at the French shoemaker’s Marais flagship. Ichti narrated the story of her life through brief poems, each cited after wearing a different pair of shoes, including interpretations of both the flat and high-heeled Cambre boot, which was also rendered artistically when covered in colored leather fringes, canvas, handkerchief or extra-long trains of fabric for a dramatic effect.

A style by J.M. Weston.
Courtesy of J.M. Weston

Joseph Duclos: Enduring elegance was at the center of the Maison Joseph Duclos project. The company was established last year to celebrate the legacy of entrepreneur Joseph Duclos, who in the 18th century combined three small tanneries in Lectoure, France, and earned the title of Royal Leather Manufacture by King Louis XV in 1754. Now, under the artistic direction of Ramesh Nair — who made a name for himself at his previous experiences at Hermès and Moynat — this gem of French craftsmanship launched with a series of luxury leather accessories, including the Diane design offered both in the handbag and cross-body options. Inspired by coin purses and crafted from calfskin treated with a natural tanning technique that develops a patina over time, the essential shape was outlined with gold-plated brass engraved with sentences of the founder’s letters and featured a statement clasp evoking the arrow of the Diana goddess of the hunt. The Saint-Clair style also charmed with its contemporary take on pouches worn by royal officers and combinations of leather structure and soft, nubuck flap.

The Diane bag by Joseph Duclos.
Courtesy of Joseph Duclos

Goossens: Blending art and goldsmith craft, Goossens made a name for itself collaborating with Chanel and making jewelry for designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy and Christian Lacroix. While continuing to work for numerous fashion houses today, the brand expanded its jewelry assortment under its own line with a charming fall collection nodding to antique pieces, including hammered bangles and rings, pearl-encrusted brooches and dangle earrings, all evoking byzantine ornaments. Styles are crafted in brass soaked in gold bath and often embellished with cabochon-cut stones.

Earrings by Goossens.
Courtesy of Goossens

Alia Bin Omair: Emirati award-winning brand Alia Bin Omair, which also scooped the 2021 Fashion Trust Arabia prize for the jewelry category, blending art and design to create statement pieces with an artisanal touch. Highlights of the collection included the Leaf line defined by a raw look and irregular shapes nodding to natural elements. The range comprised 18-karat gold adjustable rings, one-piece earrings and chokers with delicate leaf details punctuating a thin gold wire.

A ring by Alia Bin Omair.
Courtesy of Alia Bin Omair

Elleme: Under the creative direction of founder Jingjing Fan, Paris-based brand Elleme has quickly grown from accessories to ready-to-wear, which was at its third iteration this season. While the label has ambitious plan to further beef up the apparel category, its core footwear and handbags offering continues to attract retailers, which include Harvey Nichols, Browns, Rinascente and Mytheresa, among others. New footwear styles included a tougher take on the mary jane shoe with a squared toe, block heel and rubber sole as well as loafers and high boots adorned by the brand’s signature Couchou ruched band. Handbags ranged from the cross-body, half-moon shaped Dimple bag and the Space bag boasting a futuristic, curved shape to the Panda bag with frontal zippered pockets, that was rendered in different textures, such as shearling, canvas and leather.

The Dimple bag by Elleme.
Courtesy of Elleme

Tweek: Think zero-waste in jewelry is melting metal once more to reuse it? Think again. For jewelry brand Tweek, it’s about using a sheet of metal so completely there’s nothing left, from the metal laticework that is created by punching out another shape to compressing any leftovers for new shapes. Behind the industrial charm of this Dutch label, the contraction of “twin sisters Eek,” are twin cofounders Roos and Geertje Eek. The former has experience in metalwork while the latter worked in product design, combining their knowledge to harness heavy-duty machinery in order to produce eye-catching geometric designs.

A style by Tweek.
Maria.bodil/Courtesy of Tweek

Sweetlimejuice: Hong Kong designer Simpson Ma took home the Swarovski Innovator Award for his unique stone swaddling method the same year he graduated from London College of Fashion. Now behind London-based Sweetlimejuice, the latest collection is infused with cultural contradictions. He borrows from Japanese, Hindu, Islamic and Christian religious imagery, such as a crucifix cleaved in two on the sides of a chunky chain. “These things remind people about connection, closeness and beliefs.” Elsewhere sculptural notes appear in scalloped curved-link chains in gold-plated sterling silver. The brand used black freshwater pearls on bracelets and necklaces, and his signature wrapping technique is applied with fabric cradling chunky semiprecious stones in yellow and a royal purple.

Styles from Sweetlimejuice.
Courtesy of Sweetlimejuice

L/Uniform: Jeanne Signoles continued her exploration of all-things canvas at her L/Uniform brand, which epitomizes effortless French style in pragmatic, everyday accessories. While Signoles’ colorful take on the fabric continues to attract customers via trend-free styles, the founder introduced the Quadrille blend of natural beige cotton with navy linen thread in a new array of models, encompassing satchels, tool and tote bags and pouches in different sizes. She also launched the new Gibecière saddle bag, a compact cross-body design with leather details, that she defined an all-purpose bag. “The initial idea of the brand was to do a bag not just for a Saturday night but for every day. I spend most of my time outside from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., so I need to be well equipped for that,” Signoles said. The company has a store in Saint-Germain-des-Prés and soon will triple its ground floor at Le Bon Marché, where it is showcased at both the fashion accessories and home divisions, since its vast assortment is also extended to cooler bags, kitchen aprons and guitar cases, among others.

A style in Quadrille canvas by L/Uniform.
Courtesy of L/Uniform

Malone Souliers: Opting out of Paris Fashion Week this season, London-based Malone Souliers presented its fall 2022 collection remotely. “I wanted to embrace the unconscious, taking inspiration from the freewheeling visions and impeccable style of the surrealist art movement,” said founder Mary Alice Malone about her new designs that played with different materials and shapes, ranging from high-heeled boots with drawstrings creating ruched effects on the leg to party-ready satin mules with feathers.

A style from Malone Souliers fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Malone Souliers

9 Pairs of Standout Sunglasses That You Can’t Miss This Season

9 Pairs of Standout Sunglasses That You Can’t Miss This Season

The fashion industry is constantly on the prowl for the next big thing, so it’s no surprise that attention shifts towards sunglasses when the sunshine peaks. With new trends being introduced every day, how will designers keep coming up with unique styles? Turns out, it doesn’t take much — just some creativity and maybe a little inspiration from the past.
Ray-Ban’s classic aviator style is timeless and shows up regularly on the runways, season-after-season, and designers recently offered updates of the eyewear staple in bold colors and maxi shapes. For others, oversized sunglasses have taken over from the once ubiquitous micro lens, with huge circular creations taking inspiration from the 1960s.
Red, both in clothing and eyewear, has made its way into the current zeitgeist. In fact, as it turns out, red is your fast-track to adding a futuristic pop to urban tailoring. And while many designers gravitated toward changing the color of the lens, others embraced classic black. Frames are the easiest to experiment with and white rectangular specs and retro cat-eye shapes have certainly found a lasting fan-base in the fashion community. And finally, eclectic types will love new surrealist designs by the likes of Schiaparelli and Gucci – go bold or go home!
Read Next: 8 Blinged-out Dresses and Accessories That Will Help You Channel Your Inner Prom Queen

Spring 2022 Accessories Market: The Greatest Hits

Spring 2022 Accessories Market: The Greatest Hits

PARIS — Showrooms in Paris were back up and running and accessories brands presented highly optimistic spring 2022 collections to tap into women’s newfound appetite for dancing shoes, high shine and plenty of drama. At Roger Vivier, Gherardo Felloni proposed some of the highest heels he has ever designed for the Parisian house; up-and-coming brands like Mach & Mach and Iindaco quickly gained commercial traction for their candy-colored, crystal-embellished accessories, while contemporary mainstays such as By Far and Paris Texas were banking on the Y2K trend with hologram leather, trendy baguette bags and animal prints galore.Here, WWD rounds up some of the strongest accessories for the upcoming season.

Mach & Mach, spring 2022
Courtesy of Mach & Mach

Mach & Mach: Georgian label Mach & Mach is probably one of the biggest new success stories on the footwear scene. Its signature pastel-hued pumps, embellished with the sparkliest, most photogenic bows, kept gaining steam in the last year and as the world opens up the label is becoming firmly established across major international retailers from Net-a-porter to Browns, Moda Operandi and Harrods. For spring 2022 it’s doubling down on all things glamorous and sparkly with new iterations of its popular pumps that now come in a rainbow of colors, ranging from trendy neon green to hologram leather and deep purple. Designers Nina and Gvantsa Macharashvili also played with new embellishments in the form of pearl strands and extra-large crystals and added some very of-the-moment, satin baguette bags to the mix featuring crystal embellishments spelling out words like “Princess.” The range can’t help but bring Paris Hilton and the booming Y2K trend to mind.

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By Far, spring 2022
Courtesy of By Far

By Far: By Far is one of the contemporary labels that managed to hold on to its relevance, even as the market becomes saturated, thanks to its ability to tap into the zeitgeist, create Instagram buzz, and gain the favor of some of the internet’s most followed fashion personalities, from Kendall Jenner to Hailey Bieber and Margot Robbie. They are all regularly seen in its trendy baguette bags and barely there sandals. For spring 2022, presented via a digital showroom, founders Valentina Ignatova and Sabina Gyosheva went all in with the ’90s references, ticking many a trend box with their mini top handle and baguette bags, brightly hued clogs and PVC sandals. The hologram leather on some of the mini shoulder bags and neon green and pink hues seen all across summer sandals will no doubt keep Instagram’s trendy community coming back for more.

Paris Texas, spring 2022
Courtesy of Paris Texas

Paris Texas: The Roaring Twenties are finally here and women are showing real appetite for embracing the moment — and partying in some of the loudest and highest heels they’ve worn in a long time. Italian shoe label Paris Texas, already known for its brightly hued boots and flair for all things animal print — in the middle of lockdown some of its bestsellers included limited-edition crystal-encrusted stiletto boots — is standing firmly behind the trend for spring 2022 with one of its boldest collections to date. Think turquoise croc-effect or metallic zebra print boots; extra-high platform mules; crystal and PVC sandals, and metallic-hued wedges, which the designers refer to as a “super trend” for next spring. “We were very inspired by the party lifestyle and the idea of people celebrating, going out with friends and having fun. It seems like our customers are going out again and looking for heels for fun and special occasions. We cater mostly to this market and so there’s a big interest in Paris Texas from our customers who are looking to dress up again,” said Annamaria Brivio, the label’s cofounder.

Christian Louboutin, spring 2022
Courtesy of Christian Louboutin

Christian Louboutin: Christian Louboutin created his first genderless capsule for spring 2022, dubbed “Our Angels” and paying tribute to glam-rock icons with a range of block-heeled, platform boots that feature monochrome shades, animal print, or more elaborate floral embroideries as pictured here. The new capsule, which is available in sizes 36 to 46, was Louboutin’s way of continuing the conversation of “inclusivity and the joy of being one’s authentic self.”

Nodaleto, spring 2022
Courtesy of Nodaleto

Nodaleto: “It’s all about magic,” said Julia Toledano. For her latest spring 2022 shoe collection for Nodaleto, she wanted to capture the energy of natural light through feel-good pastel colors and rainbow patterns and pass on a message of optimism, as the world reopens. Cue lilac hues — “the color of hope” according to the designer — jewelry embellishments featuring good-vibration stones, and ombré textured fabrics capturing the colors of the sunset. They were applied on the brand’s signature square-toe, block heel Mary Janes and sandals as Toledano is set on offering timeless designs that don’t follow trend cycles. Some additions included square-toe flat boots and lace-up sandals done in sumptuous purple brocades.

Manu Atelier, spring 2022
Courtesy of Manu Atelier

Manu Atelier: Manu Atelier is introducing a handbag style for spring 2022, featuring a thicker strap than its usual dainty baguette styles and chunky chain embellishments. Instead of hosting its usual showroom space in Paris to launch the collection, the Istanbul-based label kept up to speed with the shifts in the market, sticking to the digital realm for sales appointments, and investing more in creating the right content and consequently enough buzz around its new season styles. To mark the opening of Paris Fashion Week, the label hosted a small lunch with some of its favorite content creators, who were then seen sporting the bag on their Instagram Stories. It’s also did a lot of wild posting of its new campaign — shot by Harley Weir and spotlighting the new bag — all over Paris.

Roger Vivier, spring 2022
Courtesy of Roger Vivier

Roger Vivier: Roger Vivier creative director Gherardo Felloni thinks it’s time to party again and is feeding his clients’ newfound appetite for dancing shoes with some of the highest heels he’s ever designed for the label. Cue glossy pink platform mules, glitter pumps, and metallic sandals featuring a new stiletto heel adorned with a large crystal cube — a nod to the crystal ball heels Roger Vivier had designed for Marlene Dietrich in the ’40s. “It’s a lot of party shoes, everything is joyful because we have to go out and be happy again. I’ve been a big fan of flats and kitten heels, but I now realize that women want to have that choice of higher heels and most shops now mostly sell sneakers and low heels only,” said Felloni.

Iindaco, spring 2022
Courtesy of Iindaco

Iindaco: Designers and friends Pamela Costantini and Domitilla Rapisardi started Iindaco amidst last year’s lockdown in order to bring sustainability and more democratic pricing into the world of luxury footwear. Drawing from past design experience in houses like Roberto Cavalli and Givenchy, they created fun, edgy collections with crystal heels featuring flame motifs, sequined embellishments and sexy, lace-up silhouettes. By using moiré fabrics instead of leather, biodegradable leather linings, and recycled materials for their heels they are keeping their sustainability standards high, too.

Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, spring 2022
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Gia Borghini x Rosie Huntington-Whiteley: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s minimalist flair has translated into big sales and plenty of buzz for Florentine footwear label Gia Borghini. Earlier this month, the second iteration of their collaboration, exclusively launched on Mytheresa, sold out within two days and during Paris Fashion Week, the brand unveiled the upcoming spring drop to buyers and press. Drawing from Borghini’s and Huntington-Whiteley’s mutual obsession with interiors, the collection features wooden wedges and heels made out of quartz or jade crystals, reflecting the color palette and materials in the model’s own home.

Gia Borghini, spring 2022
Courtesy of Gia Borghini

Gia Borghini: Gia Borghini debuted the first main-line collections designed alongside Danish influencer Pernille Teisbaek, who was tapped as the brand’s creative consultant earlier this year. The focus was on a natural color palette and fuss-free silhouettes featuring plenty of padding — which is fast becoming a brand signature. The idea was to offer comfortable shoes for women, who like Tesibaek and Borghini, lead busy lives, juggle motherhood with work, and need smart solutions.

Kassl, spring 2022
Courtesy of Kassl

Kassl: Handbags might have started as a small side project for Kassl — it was a creative way to use up the fabric leftovers from its signature coats — but they’ve now grown into a full-fledged business. The Amsterdam-based label has kept expanding its offer of coated cotton tote bags — roomy and puffy enough to double as pillows — and is introducing a hobo style in everything from supersized shapes for travel to more compact ones for everyday use. The label has been flexing its muscles in new categories, too, with an Asics sneaker collaboration launching later this year and a set of cozy chairs made out of its signature leathers that Bottega Veneta has also picked up for its boutiques.

Malone Souliers, spring 2022
Courtesy of Malone Souliers

Malone Souliers: London-based Malone Souliers opted out of Paris Fashion Week this season, connecting with buyers digitally and turning its focus on new projects, like the brand’s upcoming collaboration with the hit Netflix show “Bridgerton” and a digital made-to-order service launching this month. In the same spirit of doing things a little differently, founder Mary Alice Malone channeled a new energy in her spring 2022 designs with novelty heels shaped like diamonds — a first for the brand — extra large embellishments and pastels galore. “It’s bright, upbeat and carefree and I had so much fun playing with tone and translucency. I want people to feel energetic and happy,” she said.

Wandler, spring 2022
Courtesy of Wandler

Wandler: Elza Wandler keeps refreshing and refining her core bag collections with striking colors and sleek, minimal shapes. For spring 2022 she kept things fresh with a palette of soft pastels and highlighted new bag styles, like the Penelope crossbody bag. “There should be a balance showing new items and yet not overload the market,” said Wandler who makes a point to add touches of newness every season while returning to bestsellers like her Hortensia moon-shaped totes and Georgia baguettes.

JiiJ, spring 2022
Courtesy of JiiJ

JiiJ: Ieva Juskaite launched footwear label JiiJ amid the lockdown, following much introspection and understanding the need for fashion-forward shoes at a more inclusive size range. As someone who wears size 43 shoes, Juskaite’s options had always been limited to sneakers or made-to-order shoes, so she’s addressing the issue with JiiJ, which offers cool Mary Jane pumps, loafers and cutout leather boots that work across genders and are available from sizes 36 to 46. The shoes, which are made using apple leather, are already gaining traction among the fashion community and the label’s debut campaign was splashed all across Paris’ streets during fashion week.

Okhtein, spring 2022
Courtesy of Okhtein, Sayed Abd Algalil

Okhtein: With fresh investment from Bidayat — the investment vehicle founded by Valentino board chairman and Mayhoola chief executive officer Rachid Mohamed Rachid — Okhtein is feeling confident and doubling down on its core aesthetic, which is all about glamour and paying homage to its Egyptian heritage. Its new spring range featured bold styles with plenty of crystal and feather embellishments or carved brass details. As it looks ahead, the label said that it plans to use the funds from Bidayat to strengthen its e-commence business and expand its store network, following the opening of its Cairo flagship.

Pierre Hardy debuts new “Planet” sustainable range.
Pierre Hardy: Hardy is ramping up his sustainability commitments with a range called Planet. The footwear maverick has worked with suppliers to create his most sustainable collections to date for fall 2021 and spring 2022, using sustainable nylon fabrics, vegetable-tanned leather and recycled packaging. “This isn’t a look or a style, it’s a way of thinking and a new approach,” said Hardy, explaining that he kept signature styles in the line, like his graphic-printed mules and sporty heels, reworking them in more eco-friendly materials. “It’s a new way of creativity and I think it will merge more and more with the regular collections, simply because it will have to be.”

Vanina, spring 2022
Courtesy of Vanina

Vanina: Beirut-based Vanina has kept going despite the instability in Beirut, by keeping close ties with the Lebanese capital’s artisans and producing one-of-a-kind, handmade pieces featuring shells and glass beads. Structured circle-shaped styles and mini tote bags featuring beaded fringes were among the highlights — offering a refreshing departure from the more generic minimalist leather pieces seen all across the market. The brand’s clear point of difference has caught the eye of retailers like Net-a-porter, Browns and Luisa Via Roma and there are also plans to expand into clothing from next season, which will adopt the same heavily embellished, handmade approach.

Aeyde, spring 2022
Courtesy of Aeyde

Aeyde: For all the demand for high platforms and sparkly Princess shoes, some labels are staying committed to minimalism and functionality for spring. Berlin-based Aeyde is one such label, building on the commercial success of its contemporary-priced boots — a wardrobe staple for many fashion insiders — with the launch of the Luis, a sleek new take on the cowboy boot, refined with curved lines that reference the Bauhaus movement.

Moynat, spring 2022
Courtesy of Moynat

Moynat: New creative director Nicholas Knightly has been spending much time in the house’s archives and slowly but surely introducing new bag styles, informed by the brand’s long trunk-making history. Among the highlights were a series of minaudière bags, modeled after archival trunks. The circular Wheel bag was inspired by the shape of old Moynat cases designed for car owners to hold tires.

Delvaux’s new spring 2022 Le Lingot bag.
Courtesy of Delveaux

Delvaux: Belgian luxury handbag label Delvaux also stuck to the digital realm for spring 2022, introducing a new bag style that aims to “bring its rich past into the present.” The bag, which can be worn cross-body, has a more laid-back feel and features an oversized “D” buckle made out of a single brass bar.

Pellegrino, spring 2022
Courtesy of Pellegrino

Pellegrino: Veteran accessories designer Renaud Pellegrino designed the Noor, a glamorous day-to-night bag with a detachable bejeweled chain that can be worn as a belt, with two women in mind: former jewelry editor Anne-Sophie Mignaux-Kamar, and his label’s CEO Sotévy Ly, who had bonded over their shared commitment to charities supporting women and children. Named after Mignaux-Kamar’s newborn daughter, profits from the sales of this limited-edition purse will be donated to Plan International, a development and humanitarian organization working across the world to advance children’s rights and equality for girls.

Hermès, spring 2022
Courtesy of Hermes

Hermès: At Hermès, the sheer luxury of its ready-to-wear line and iconic status of its best-known purses often drown out the tongue-in-cheek outlook of its designs, which turn its equestrian and leather craft heritage into a seemingly bottomless well from which spring everything from enamel ear cuffs and lacquered bangles to a pixelated mini version of its Kelly bag and finger-skate bag charms. Leading the race, the Maximors bag, a miniature duffel shape with an extra-large horsebit as a handle.

Must-Have Loewe Accessories For Fall 2021

Must-Have Loewe Accessories For Fall 2021

Since the pandemic started, Jonathan Anderson has been messaging positivity and feel-good vibes through his collections, emphasizing that fashion has the power to create joy. Gorgeous cocoon coats with exaggerated volume (this season’s big statement), the exploration of 1920s dress silhouettes and the injection of retro psychedelic colors and prints from the early ’70s got the fashion endorphins going.
Loewe, founded in Madrid in 1846, was first and foremost a small leather goods company. The ready-to-wear line was introduced in 1965, and for this season Anderson looked back in time and updated two of the house’s most iconic and classic bags.
The use of a boy’s moccasin as inspiration for a platform bootie and the introduction of a hybrid bracelet/bag perfect for a night out dancing made the point that fashion is for everyone — from the classic traditionalist to the adventurist.

Below, WWD chooses our favorite accessories from the fall ’21 show.
1. Amazona 28
First launched in 1975, the original Amazona was an “It” bag then and is primed to be one now. Reimagined in square and rectangular shapes, it comes in leather and jacquard and features the company’s logo design. This jacquard was introduced last spring, but for the fall season it comes in both brown and cream and black and cream styles, enhancing its timeless charm.

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Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

2. The Goya
Anderson calls the Goya bag, “Their big development this season.” This new launch comes in a variety of brightly colored tones. The hard construction and golden logo hardware detail speaks more to the traditional types, while the brighter colors and small size have a more playful fashion appeal. This new bag is an instant classic.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

3. Boyish Platforms
Playing with boyish references is one of the charming and ingenious abilities of Loewe’s designer. The creative approach of taking a boys moccasin, pairing it with a black leather socks detail and then adding a platform results in an extremely cool bootie that transforms and subverts any look. The chunkiness has a ’90s ravers appeal ready for the dance floor.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

4. The XL Flamenco
It is clear by now that extra-large bags are one of the most popular accessory trends this season, and this long-time icon from the house of Loewe is no exception. The oversize style works great on this unconstructed clutch, which is crafted from soft calfskin nappa leather featuring playful tassels on each end of the drawstrings. The sac look gives bohemian vibes, and infuses a cool edge into this everyday bag.
Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

5. The Bracelet Bag
What is not to love about a statement bracelet that turns into the ultimate evening bag? Crafted from supple pleated lambskin nappa leather with metallic golden plaques engraved with the Loewe anagram, it marries the very fashion mood of the collection with the practicality of a mini bag.

Loewe, fall 2021  Courtesy of Loewe

Can a Tropical Leaf Forge the Future of Sustainable Accessories Design?

Can a Tropical Leaf Forge the Future of Sustainable Accessories Design?

The road to more sustainable materials has been long, challenging and riddled with mixed messages. But now Brazilian firm Nova Kaeru has stepped into the ring with a leather alternative made from an organically processed tropical leaf. The material, called Beleaf, appears to be one of the most promising developments in sustainable materials to-date — and has already landed on the desks of accessories designers at Prada, Hermès, Nike, Gucci, New Balance and others, according to company.
But first, it will appear in collections by indie labels with smaller production runs and a close line of communication to their customers. French designer Amélie Pichard launched a handbag from Beleaf last month and soon Mari Giudicelli will use it in shoes.

Where Beleaf differs from previous sustainable materials is that it does not aspire to look exactly like leather. Nova Kaeru’s director, Paulo Amaury, said, “We tried to make this look as close as possible to the actual leaf in nature. We wanted the veins of the leaf to show up.”
Beleaf, which hails from elephant ear plant, will be sold per leaf, rather than in rolls of yardage. It is a typical garden variety plant in tropical environments, seen in parts of Asia and even Miami. But in Brazil, the plant’s leaves grow to massive sizes. Amaury said the average leaf they sell varies between three and five square feet. It is a designer’s task to then retrofit the leaf how they best see fit — a larger leaf could be enough material for one small handbag, if well planned.

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Pichard, who has been searching for organic materials for her accessories brand, said discovering Beleaf for her brand was a breakthrough. In November, the designer launched a line of handbags made from different sustainable materials, but noted “It’s ideal to say vegetable material is ecological but they are still experimental and, to be very honest, vegan and vegetable leathers are not 100 percent made of vegetables — they are always mixed with petrol or plastic, so it’s not totally clean.”
Pineapple plant leaf material Piñatex, for example, is made from 90 percent biodegradable material and 10 percent plastic material, while faux cactus leather is comprised of 50 percent natural material, with the remaining contents not outlined by manufacturers.
Beleaf, by contrast, is just made of leaf — and is organically treated with a process that took nearly five years of development and is still being fine-tuned for resistance. Amaury said he is finally confident that the material can be used for shoes, which requires sturdier material than handbags.
Currently, the leaf needs to be affixed to either organic cotton or a recycled PET material during production, but Nova Kaeru is working on changing this. Beleaf is offered in both “leather” and “suede” finishes in a variety of colors spanning natural green to bright blue. The company is preparing for increased production of Beleaf, and this year discovered methods to harvest the elephant ear leaf during Brazil’s wet season, since the plant tends to grow on riverbanks.
“You cut off the bigger leaves and the plant continues to produce more leaves,” Amaury said of the circular nature of the elephant ear plant. “Our production of the leaf, it isn’t exactly correct to say we are tanning the leaf but we could use that as a parallel to the leather process. It’s about turning the leaf into something resistant with an organic process. The water we use, the solid waste all goes back to nature, for irrigation and the solid as fertilizer,” he added of the production process.

Very Important Puppies Teams Up With Ugg

Very Important Puppies Teams Up With Ugg

Very Important Puppies — the doggie accessories brand from sisters Sabrina Albarello and Katerina Karelas —  has teamed with Ugg to create a bootie fit for their canine friends.
“We decided to partner with Ugg because we always loved the brand so much and we wanted to have something to match our dogs for the winter,” explained Albarello of their latest collaboration. “Ugg for us is  synonymous with functionality and design and this was something they hadn’t done before.”
The doggie brand is no stranger to the collaboration train, having previously linked up with GCDC, NASA and with designer Heron Preston.
Over the last six months, as much of the globe rotates through lockdowns due to COVID-19, the market for pet-based accessories has grown as more people bring home new four-legged friends.

“People are getting dogs because they have more time to take care of them,” Albarello said bluntly, adding that “the market is in continuous growth and it will continue growing, especially with what we are living in this moment in the world.”

Image from Ugg x VIP campaign.  Courtesy

Next up for the puppy brand? Albarello said they will evolve with other dog-focused accessories like beds and bowls with plans to launch wellness. “We are coming up with some special vitamins very soon,” she said.
The Ugg x VIP bootie style is adjustable, made in faux suede with fluffy faux fur trim accents and comes in black or chestnut. The booties retail for $80 and launch today at ugg.com, veryimportantpuppies.dog and select Nordstrom stores.

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