Following a three-season hiatus, designer Raul Lopez, former cofounder of Hood By Air, has reintroduced his brand Luar with a fitting next chapter. Lopez’s work is about a reframing of culture and influence, giving narrative to BIPOC creators who don’t get the proper recognition they deserve when their ideas and culture are co-opted by the masses. Lopez opted to supplant the term “basic,” with spring’s collection taking a more commercial bent and a focus on wearability — he’s “taking basic to camp,” as his show notes declared.
The look: Tight tailoring mixed with new ideas on deconstruction and branding.
Key looks: A laser-cut black leather trench, logo sweats, suiting with fresh ideas on deconstructing pant shapes, floor-length top coats, mini lady bags, wide-legged pants with zipper inserted panels.
The takeaway: Lopez had the 9 p.m. slot on the Saturday of NYFW, showing that he is a brand to watch with his subversive take on tailoring and answer to what communities are creating “fashion.”