Juun.J RTW Fall 2023

This season, Juun.J tore up his own rule book — and his denim, too. The South Korean designer emerged from the cocoon of last year’s quilted blanket coats with a slimmed down and shredded silhouette. It was a directional shift for Juun, who has long played with shape but kept his materials sacred. Set amongst the white pillars of the Arab World Institute’s basement, he built a temple to grunge.

Inspired by the era, Juun sent out destroyed looks in jeans, hoodies with holes, and ripped and re-sewn dresses. The designer said he wanted to show beauty in something old and damaged.

He imagined an atypical aesthetic and twisted take on value, on-trend as society rethinks the definition of beauty, and added a layer of Y2K discord. Miniskirts gave way to hip-baring bustiers, while midriff-exposing turtlenecks were roughly chopped. There was an emphasis on layers, with the hoodies-and-bomber combination the basis of several shapes.

Looks were accessorized with handbags flecked with large and dangerous-looking spikes, for the woman warrior to carry her copious amounts of eyeliner or perhaps use as a weapon.

Leather moto suits and biker jackets were distressed with paint, and a high-collared coat of flight jacket on top and tails in the back was an interesting twist. Faux-fur pieces were the one soft touch in this tough collection, and a bright blue puffer made of the material was a standout.

These were shapes and themes that Juun has mastered before, and while in line with the early Aughts’ oversized silhouette, felt a little heavy.

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