Susan Sabet

Egyptian designer Mina Tahir. Photo: Francesco Scotti
The Egyptian Fashion and Design Council (EFDC) has announced the launch of the inaugural Egypt Fashion Week (EFW). Taking place from May 12 to 15, 2023 the event will be themed ‘Past, Present & Future’ and will pay homage to Egypt’s rich heritage and civilization.
This celebration of Egyptian identity will be marked by a commitment to showing the world Egypt’s present – creatives, craftsmen, and industry leaders who are forging the contemporary fashion scene – while honoring its past and looking towards a future that merges centuries of knowledge with modernity. The EFDC also hopes that the event will be a conduit of connection between the local, African, and Middle Eastern markets through design, craftsmanship, education, sustainability, production, and retail.

Vogue Arabia caught up with Susan Sabet, co-founder of the EFDC, to discuss this landmark event.
How does it feel to be at the helm of the first-ever Egypt Fashion Week?As you know, EFW is organized by the Egyptian Fashion & Design Council. We are five founding members who are all super excited and Paul Antaki, our current president and myself are leading the organization. Paul is more involved in the finances while my part is setting the actual program from shows, exhibitions, talks to media, etc. Being in the fashion industry for over 30 years, I bring the experience of fashion weeks and contacts in the fashion industry to the table. I have been in touch with most of our international guests since the idea of EFW turned into a project back in 2018. They have seen my frustration of postponing three times due to Covid. So to finally really make it happen, means the world to me.
Why do you think now is the perfect time to celebrate Egyptian fashion on this scale?I believe that with the 2011 revolution in Egypt, a new sense of national pride was rekindled. New fashion, accessory, and jewelry designers emerged and found incredible support from the local consumer and eventually also the local retailer. Of course, it’s a very “young industry” but it is coupled with one of Egypt’s largest industries, the cotton and textile industry.  Since 2011, some designers have disappeared but today I can proudly say that Egypt has a large number of designers whose products are on par in design, quality, and pricing with the regional and international markets. Definitely large enough to sustain a fashion week. And of course, let us never forget the immense backbone of the resources of Egyptian textiles and handcrafts our designers can rely on and we will showcase. The time is also right as all eyes seem to be on Egypt. High-profile events such as Art D’Egypte and the Dior show in Cairo have given Egypt a new angle of interest. I feel it in the local, regional, and international media interest and support we are receiving, which is just incredible.
According to you, what role does EFW play in the MENA and global fashion calendars?
I remember Fashion Forward Dubai when it launched in 2013, which I really consider the front-runner of high-profile fashion events in the MENA region that give a professional platform to local designers. I believe it is a great loss that the event was phased out in 2020. For me as a member of a non-profit fashion council that aims to mentor local designers and grow the industry,  it is great to see that Arab Fashion Week which started off with showing mainly international designers, is now Dubai Fashion Week really focusing on regional designers.  Egypt Fashion Week focuses on our constantly growing pool of Egyptian designers, but we also aim to connect the industry by inviting industry leaders from Africa, the Middle East, and the world to share their expertise and know-how while connecting to forge collaborations and business opportunities. I attended the first Jordan Fashion Week back in 2019, which had a mission very similar to ours, promoting local talent. I really hope that now that we are finally out of the pandemic that it will be back soon. As for the global fashion calendar, EFW is a first. But we are 100% committed to establishing EFW for the time being as an annual event, and hopefully eventually as a bi-annual event. EFW content and community engagement are what we hope will earn us global recognition and a place on the international fashion week calendar.
Can you tell us the meaning behind this year’s theme, ‘Past, Present & Future’?The past, because we honor and are inspired by our culture and heritage. The present, because we know what the world is looking for today. The future, because we know where we have to go to be part of it.
Who are some of the people that have been crucial in making this a reality?
Egypt Fashion Week would not be possible without the support of many government officials and diplomats and of course our sponsors and partners as well as our co-producers Creative Headz, who bring 15 years of experience in organizing fashion weeks to the table. To organize a fashion week of international standard is an enormous undertaking and our board really appreciates those who understood our vision and mission and the crucial support of the current and upcoming generation of creatives, artisans, and craftsmen who produce products with a unique Egyptian DNA, the cotton and textile industry, education, sustainability, and all our pillars.
What are some of the challenges you faced when developing EFW and how did you overcome them?For me, the biggest challenge has been to regain the trust of some of our international guests and some of our designers. Even when the postponement is due to a force majeure, which was Covid-19, and the months following when many were still not comfortable traveling, it dampens the initial excitement. But then I believe that those in the fashion industry that have known me for a very long time and as the program developed, overcame any doubts and I can’t wait to welcome them in Cairo.
Who are some of the Egyptian designers you are really looking forward to seeing at EFW?At this stage, we have had over 90 registrations and we are finalizing the final participants that comply with the criteria of acceptance. Of course, this can result in disappointment but is really based on worldwide fashion week acceptance criteria. We will announce the names of the final lineup of EFW designers by mid-April. Naming one would not be fair, and honestly, I am looking forward to seeing all of our currently accepted designers at EFW.
Many of the events will be taking place in museums. What is the reason behind this decision?This is Egypt Fashion Week and we have so many sites that are so unique and historic and will not only mesmerize our international guests but also our local guests and visitors. The opening night on May 12, within the old Egyptian Museum, amidst artifacts thousands of years old, can’t be beaten as a more impressive setting, for us to guarantee a lasting impression. On May 13 and 14, EFW opens its doors at the Museum of Agriculture, the second most important agricultural museum in the world after Budapest. It is an architectural gem, that dates back to 1937 and on its vast grounds retells the history of cotton and the Egyptian textile industry, which is a perfect tie-in.
What do you think sets Egyptian fashion apart from the rest of the world?Creating a unique DNA that has global appeal is what every designer must strive for. As the Council, we urge designers to use our local craftsmanship and look for inspiration “at home”. At EFW you will discover many designers that have succeeded and produce garments or accessories that are unique in design and of high quality.
How important is sustainability to EFW? How will this materialize during the events?Of course, sustainability is one of the major pillars of EFW. We have several leaders in this field who will discuss in panel talks the current landscape, what needs to be addressed, or for example, how to turn your business into a sustainable business model.
What are your hopes for EFW and the future of Egyptian fashion?I hope that the first edition of EFW will be the successful start of an ongoing initiative of an annual and soon semi-annual platform for Egypt’s, the Middle East’s, and Africa’s top players and talents to showcase and come together. Engaging the local community, bringing together authentic creatives and true professionals from within the wider fashion industry, whose priority lies in mentoring and supporting, will also guide those seeking professional advice and genuine support.

Tara Emad with handbag from Egyptian handbag label Okhtein. Photo: Courtesy of Maison Pyramide
In exciting news for Egypt‘s emerging designers, the country is set to host its first official fashion awards. The announcement was jointly made by the Egyptian Fashion and Design Council (EFDC), Mall of Arabia, Marakez, and the British Council Egypt at a press conference while encouraging talent to apply. The Egypt Fashion Awards will have four categories: Young Designers (graduating students of 2019 or 2020 in the fashion, accessory, or jewelry design sector and up to two years in the business), Emerging Designers (produced commercially available apparel for a minimum of two years and a maximum of eight years), Accessory Designers (produce commercially available accessories for a minimum of two years and a maximum of eight years), and Jewelry Designers (produce commercially available jewelry for a minimum of two years and a maximum of eight years).
The awards’ advisory board includes members of both international and regional fashion industries: Diane Pernet, founder of A Shaded View on Fashion, Jamila Halfichi, fashion and lifestyle editor of Al Sharq Al Awsat newspaper; Shirene Rifai, founder and organizer of Jordan Fashion Week; Kegham Djeghalian, art director and professor at Paris College of Art and French Institute of Fashion, Susan Sabet, co-founder EFDC and publisher of Pashion magazine.
The board will be tasked with pre-selecting five finalists in each category who will be announced on February 7. The works of these finalists will then be displayed at Cairo’s Mall of Arabia for public viewing and voting. This will be followed by the Egypt Fashion Awards Gala on February 27 also at the mall where finalists from all categories will showcase pieces from their latest collections. These will be judged by a soon-to-be-announced high-profile jury of fashion industry members and celebrities who will ultimately select the winners.
What awaits the winners? An opportunity to experience firsthand the workings of an international fashion week. As part of ‘The London Fashion Experience’, The British Council will take the winners of each category to London Fashion Week in September 2022 where they will be shown the different options of participation and the needs of international buyers to aid them in the future. What’s more, the Mall of Arabia will also display the works of the finalists at a popup, while the EFDC will offer mentorship and business guidance.
Susan Sabet
We caught up with Sabet to know more about the aims and future of the Egypt Fashion Awards.
What brought about the awards’ inception and how long have they been in the making?
With so many talents who deserve and need recognition, mentorship, and support—which is part of the EFDC mission—it was only a given that an award had to be created sooner or later. The EFDC being a non-profit organization that offers designers to apply at no cost gives a fair opportunity to all talents. The idea of the awards started almost two years ago and we had been in talks with Mall of Arabia since then. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic we delayed the launch several times.
What would you like participating and winning designers to take away from these awards?
Of course, everyone wants to be a winner, however, as in every competition, there can only be one. But we hope that everyone is encouraged to apply and participate and sees the larger picture. It is about the exposure, and the ​opportunity to be discovered and receive feedback from fashion industry leaders and press and end consumers, and to benefit from the mentorship. It’s also part of a learning process and experience that every young and emerging designer should go through.
How do you think fashion in Egypt has evolved over the years?
The Egyptian textile and apparel industry is the second-largest industrial sector in Egypt and plays a major role in shaping the country’s economy. It operates on a vertically integrated functioning model, starting from raw materials up to finished products of apparel and home textile in large manufacturing plants. Since the revolution in 2011, the Egyptian fashion industry has seen a dramatic surge in young designers starting to open up small ateliers or subcontracting and starting their own brands. I personally explain it as part of a new nationalism and pride that was born with the revolution that encouraged locals to support, be proud, and buy local.
What is your message to young Egyptian designers?
Don’t be scared and insecure, or doubt your talent. Apply and benefit from what the award is offering everyone in terms of exposure.
What are your future plans for the awards?
It will be an annual event and we hope to grow more and more awareness and interest with every edition and make participation an aspiration of all Egyptian designers.
Entry for all applicants is free. For more information and to apply, visit Egyptfashionawards.com
Read Next: The Arab Designers Report: Your Guide to Supporting Local Talent