stine goya

CPHFW’s Stine Goya Shows Us Just How Much We Can Grow

CPHFW’s Stine Goya Shows Us Just How Much We Can Grow

Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
Copenhagen Fashion Week is roaring with a show schedule that is mostly live but connected digitally to maintain a global reach. And this season, the Scandis seem to be ticking all the boxes. To wit: a long-awaited Vogue Scandinavia launch featuring Greta Thunberg on its cover; show venues that speak to the history of Denmark—Saks Potts showed at Arne Jacobsen’s private home. Even the weather looks fabulous, bathed in Nordic light. The street style has also upped its ante and it appears that everyone is taking a page from one fashion house in particular—Stine Goya. Neon accents? Check. Prints galore? Check. Unabashed color and unexpected silhouettes? Check. Check.
Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
Of course, to properly harness the power of color and print, it must come from a place of deep authenticity coupled with research and a dollop of taste. One cannot clash colors and prints until one’s eyes bleed. It must be done with a subtle hand; after all, a certain color can enhance a particular silhouette. Once again, Stine Goya proved that she is the doyenne of print and color. After all, if she can pull off a lavender-hued hallway in her British Vogue profiled home, she can also pull off a lime green dress. Punctuating it with high gloss beading sees it play with light. The citrus color breaks into a more seductive, succulent hue as opposed to a two-dimensional, garish matte.
Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
The Stine Goya Spring 2022 collection is titled “How Much Can We Grow.” In the context of Covid and the current social and cultural climates, it’s a solid question. Many designers are tapped out from digging with both hands through their navels, reaching for a new, creative way to stay Relevant! Diverse! Sustainable! Inclusive! If you’re not, by nature, already a relatively good and evolved human, this can be a struggle. While many are still trying to get it together, Goya, who has long understood the power of collaboration (each show offers a smorgasbord of talents) used this collection to honor it. Music, film, poetry, and dance all came to the stage of the House of Goya to reveal a collection inspired by the Bloomsbury Set, a group of English intellectuals, philosophers, artists, and writers including Virginia Woolf. Several lived together and Goya pulled references from their eclectic interiors to inspire her prints. The grunge trend carried over—in particular new colorway check sweaters and vests of the same style adored by Kendall “this sweater gets me” Jenner and Hailey Bieber.
Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
Stine Goya Spring 2022. Courtesy Stine Goya
Meanwhile, the silhouettes that are typically Goya–particularly her dresses that slink when one walks and the voluminous dresses that remind of petals flitting in a soft wind stood firm. The “pajama set” suit was also there, elevated to a new level of chic with a hijab. There were some surprises though, the plum denim look with snatched waist was instant eye candy. To try Stina Goya is to adopt it; akin to entering into a long-term relationship that is both surprising and satisfying in its comfort. Only in this relationship, you’ll want to do anything but stay home.
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What Not to Miss at Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2021

What Not to Miss at Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2021

Ganni Fall 2020. Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com

The most anticipated week in sustainable fashion starts today, February 2. Running until February 4 in a digital format, Copenhagen Fashion Week will feature the Fall 2021 collections from 33 brands from the Nordic region. Copenhagen Fashion Week has long been a favorite destination for fashion buyers and editors. The biannual Nordic showcase’s CEO Cecile Thorsmark hails the showcase “as a forward thinking representation of Nordic talent to our global community.” Brands presenting include renowned names like Stine Goya, Ganni, and Munthe as well as emerging ones joining the schedule like Rotate and Stand Studio. All the digital presentations will be available to watch on the event’s website, along with numerous industry talks (don’t miss Vogue Arabia’s Caterina Minthe’s talk on February 4) meaning you can have front row access to all of Copenhagen Fashion Week from the comfort of your home.
Read on for our guide to all the major highlights of this year’s Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Zalando Sustainability Award
Arizona Muse. Photo: Getty

The Fall 2021 season marks the launch of the Zalando Sustainability award, which aims to recognize brands that are making exceptional steps in their sustainable efforts. The winners will receive a prize of € 20 000 and a partnership with the e-commerce company Zalando in developing an exclusive capsule collection. It will explore sustainable solutions in design through textiles, production, and technological processes. Three finalists have been selected for the inaugural award by a professional international jury, including model, environmental activist, and sustainability consultant Arizona Muse. The finalists for the award include Finnish fashion house Marimekko, Danish designer Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard, and Swedish brand House of Dagmar. The winners of the award will be announced on the last day of the Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Digital presentations
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / gorunway.com

Swedish menswear company Schnayderman, headed by creative director Hampus Bernhoff, will host Copenhagen Fashion Week’s opening show. This is the first showcasing of the brand as part of the official schedule and will allow the brand to showcase both menswear and womenswear. Stine Goya, Ganni, Wood Wood, Holzweiler, 7 Days Active, and Domino Tan are some of the many brands presenting digitally. To mark the end of Copenhagen Fashion Week, renowned Danish designer Henrik Vibskov will close the show. Read on for our host of Copenhagen Fashion Week digital show previews. For the full schedule head to Copenhagenfashionweek.com.
STINE GOYA
Designer Stine Goya. Courtesy CPHFW

Designer notes: “Our AW21 collection is a tribute to the dazzling energy of the underground. Imbued in the intersection between the 1980s New Romantic movement and the dark rebellion of 1990s grunge, fused with the glamour of the roaring 20s – periods of time consumed by a hunger for adventure, rebellion, and sensuality. It´s a collection to wear dancing around to the euphoric sounds of David Bowie and Roxy Music. s an expression of the rhythm of the night – the underground club scene. Going out, meeting people, dancing until dawn – this lightness and freedom that we have been all missing over the past year.”
What to expect: Stine Goya offered Vogue Arabia a zoom walk through the collection “grunge euphoria” ahead of the show. The pieces–separates, dresses, and outerwear are led by the season’s main print “only lovers left alive” featuring hand-drawn night dwellers alongside midnight blooms. The season’s floral print is inspired by Japanese artist Tetsumi Kudo and his artificial plants that bloom in the desert.  Look for a focused mix of lace, organza, and patent leather in a “retina-searing” color palette. This season, the brand sees 55% of the collection made from sustainable fabrics, up 14% from last season.
Show time: February 3, 11am. Stay tuned afterwards for Stine Goya’s Live QA with Vogue Global’s Liam Freeman
Remain designer Denise Christensen. Courtesy CPHFW

REMAIN
What to expect: Showcased in a life-sized inflatable city, the theme of the show plays out as being a tourist in your own city where the familiar becomes new again. “The Tourist” is inspired by the urban energy and architecture of Copenhagen where function and minimalist expression meets the quaint, the quirky, and the unexpected.
Show time: February 3, 15h00 CET. Stay tuned for Remain’s Live QA with Kati Chitrakorn of Vogue Business
Lovechild 1979 creative director Anne-Dorth.

LOVECHILD 1979
Designer notes: “I’ve always found so much inspiration in how people dress. How they style the garments they choose this morning. The constant flow and dynamic of people on their everyday commute. I miss being inspired and surprised by the diversity in the day-to-day street scene. Something we want to bring through these strangers passing each other in an arrival hall. We strive to remind ourselves of that every day beauty. I’m so tired of seeing sweatpants everywhere. I miss the dressing up and  making an effort. Fall 2021 is built on unstructured shapes and natural fabrics, forming a collection that is elegant, but not fragile and with the sensuality and charm in the details,”  creative director Anne-Dorthe
Look for: “A casual sensibility is portrayed in unstructured shapes and natural fabrics. The collection’s demure elegance is fulfilled in cotton, poplin, soft hand knit, sheer silk linen, denim and structured wool. A reliable fabric makes a reliable garment.”
Show time: Feb 3 1600 CET. Stay tuned for Lovechild 1979’s live QA with Erin Fitzpatick of WhoWhatWear
Designer Naja Munthe of Munthe. Courtesy CPHFW

MUNTHE
Designer notes: “Ceramics have always fascinated me. There is something so interesting about the different phases in creating this kind of artwork; The design, the shaping of the clay, the glazing and the burning. Ceramics are a material, from which everyone can make something of their own.”
What to expect: Denim, vintage patchwork, gender neutral garments and “prints that work across both clothing and the look of ceramic glaze. A range of dresses, shirts, skirts ,and tops devoted to the variety of ceramic-coatings.”
Show time: Feb 3, 18h00 CET. Stay tuned for Munthe’s live QA with and Nathalie Theodosi of WWD
Mark Kenly Domino Tan

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN 
Look for: “Melding the utilitarian practicality of womens- and menswear with the softening influence of innovative fabric like crinkled linen, double padded wool, heavy silk satin, and herringbone tweed. The palette is natural with subtle prints and fabrics mean to be combined and paired in curious ways.”
Show time: Thursday, February 4th at 13h00 CET. Don’t miss Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s talk with Vogue Arabia features director Caterina Minthe at 13.20 CET.
Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup of Ganni. Courtesy CPHFW Fall 2021

GANNI
Designer notes: “Everything is different this season. Usually we get our inspiration by travelling, seeing new places, watching people. Instead, we started the creative process by gathering everyone from the design team on a video call. We talked about our feelings, everything that we have gone through. The strongest feeling that came out of it was love. Our love for the life we have, our families, our work. Love for the ordinary small things. It might sound cheesy, but it’s this feeling that we are not alone in the world. It’s a collection full of optimism.”
Look for: A live performance project conceived with three female musicians. Quilting on leather pieces and outerwear adds texture and structure to fabrics. Ruching and draping, particularly on dresses and blouses, wrapping the body in ways that feel sensual and feminine. A time transcendent paisley print motif and large romantic rose prints takes inspiration pieces worn by Princess Diana, while the collection palette runs the full gamut from super classic shades of brown, navy and cream to fossil green and boosts of 90’s neon green alongside soft lilac, pretty pinks and a burnt yellow.
Show time: February 4th, 17h00 CET. Stay tuned for Ganni’s live QA with Tiffany Hsu of Mytheresa.com
Talent Incubators Designers’ Nest

The Talent Incubators Designers’ Nest is a non-profit initiative set up to support Nordic countries’ best fashion graduates. Each year, 10 finalists are selected by director Ane Lynge-Jorlén and a panel of industry experts to present their work at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The awarded designers will receive mentorships, internships, and support to produce a commercial collection.
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