What to Expect from the SS22 Shows
Photo: Courtesy of Louis VuittonThe most important month of the fashion calendar is upon us, and despite an ongoing pandemic, schedules are looking jam-packed when compared to the last year and a half. What’s clear, though, is that forward movement in the industry is in full swing, and style-watchers can expect sensational IRL showcases across New York, London, Milan and (likely) Paris.
Whether it’s Moschino staging an in-person spectacle in New York, emerging designers Nensi Dojaka and S.S. Daley’s inaugural standalone live shows in London, or luxury powerhouses Prada, Versace and Fendi returning to the traditional runway format in Milan — onlookers can expect plenty of fashion moments, whether they are tuning in from home or on the FROW.
Moschino fall/winter 2021. Photo: Courtesy of Moschino
Here’s the Vogue guide to the unmissable spring/summer 2022 shows from the Big Four.
New York Fashion Week: September 7-12
In the Big Apple, the week opens with independent designer Collina Strada and closes, as always, with the CFDA chairman’s namesake label, Tom Ford, both of which will be staging live shows.
Expect more runway moments from blockbuster brands like Michael Kors (who celebrates his 40th anniversary), Coach, Gabriela Hearst, Anna Sui and Carolina Herrera, as well as NYFW favourites Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Peter Do, Puppets & Puppets, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Vaquera and Eckhaus Latta. Moschino, whose American creative director Jeremy Scott normally presents in Milan, will be hosting a physical show on his home turf as a one-off.
On 13 September, Global Vogue Runway director Nicole Phelps and the American Vogue team will discuss the emerging NYFW designers to know, including Theophilio, Markarian, Sergio Hudson, LaQuan Smith, Khiry and Batsheva (and many more). Tune in exclusively on Vogue Club for the live virtual event.
The few that are choosing to showcase digitally include Oscar de la Renta and Helmut Lang. Notably absent is Marc Jacobs, who presented his fall/winter 2021 collection in June.
London Fashion Week: September 17-21
In London, plenty of exciting young talents will present collections, and this season many have opted to show on the runway. Moments to look forward to include Saul Nash, Yuhan Wang, KNWLS (formerly Charlotte Knowles), Stefan Cooke, Supriya Lele, Nensi Dojaka, and Eftychia. Don’t miss live spectacles from established names, as well, such as Simone Rocha, Erdem, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, Rejina Pyo and Richard Quinn. Putting sustainability at the forefront of their collections, as always, are Richard Malone, Marques Almeida, S.S. Daley and Sonia Carrasco. Cos, the Swedish high street retailer, is also expected to make a runway appearance.
Vivienne Westwood, Matty Bovan and Nicholas Daley are confirmed to show digitally, whilst Molly Goddard, Margaret Howell and Halpern are hosting in-person appointments. Burberry is yet to confirm its plans.
Gigi Hadid for Versace fall/winter 2021-22. Photo: Courtesy of Versace
Milan Fashion Week: September 21-27
Only a provisional schedule has been released so far, but the line-up for the Italian fashion capital still looks full of promise. Powerhouses Fendi, Prada, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Marni, Dsquared2, Jil Sander and Blumarine are all confirmed to show physically.
It appears that the younger brands, such as Shuting Qiu and Lagos Space Programme, have opted for digital presentations, but that’s subject to change as the schedule firms up. Notable absentees are Bottega Veneta and Gucci, both of whom have chosen to show at a later date in previous seasons, as well as Moschino (as mentioned before, they will be showing at NYFW).
Paris Fashion Week: September 27 to October 5
What shape the Paris Fashion Week schedule will take is yet to be revealed, but if it continues at the same pace as the haute couture season in July, we expect to see more physical shows across the board. Of course, as per usual, luxury giants such as Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton are bound to deliver the sort of live fashion spectacles that were so missed during lockdown.
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Originally published on Vogue.com