Ralph Lauren

5 Things To Know About Ralph Lauren’s Black And White AW 2022 Show

5 Things To Know About Ralph Lauren’s Black And White AW 2022 Show

Fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen shares five key takeaways from Ralph Lauren’s autumn/winter 2022 presentation, which took place off-schedule in New York at the Museum of Modern Art.
The show was set in the Museum of Modern Art in New York City

As fashion made its definitive return to the runways this season after the pandemic, Ralph Lauren chose to wait just a few weeks more before staging his own homecoming in New York City. His show took place in the sleek surroundings of the The Museum of Modern Art, with the city’s skyline as its backdrop. And it wasn’t without hesitation. When he planned it, he said, “There was no war in Ukraine. The tragedy and devastation we are witnessing now was unthinkable. Back then all I could think about was coming back together with my teams and all of you to share the hopefulness that collaboration and creativity can inspire. In the midst of this sadness, we go forward united in our hope for peace, and our hope for the end of this pandemic and a return to being together.”
Joe Biden’s family was in attendance

Models including Shalom Harlow and Gigi and Bella Hadid glided down a staircase onto a mirrored floor and meandered their way through Lauren’s modernist American lounge, where guests kicked back in leather seats around coffee tables. Reflecting this designer’s universal appeal, show-goers represented every genre of show business and beyond: Jessica Chastain, Lily Collins, Janelle Monáe, Angus Cloud, Henry Golding, and – on an invitation symbolic of Lauren’s convictions – President Biden’s granddaughters Naomi Biden and Finnegan Biden. “I am so proud to be with you again sharing not only a collection, but an optimism for living that respects the dignity of all,” the designer said.
The collection was largely monochrome

Lauren showed a collection to match his modernist setting: predominantly black and white, it made a case for the classic and timeless allure of monochrome dressing, occasionally interrupted by punches of red. For the bold impact of his handsome women’s suits styled chicly over white shirts and black polo necks, his slinky black jumpsuits cut into graphic lines, hand-spun sweaters in pared-back Nordic patterns, and long, languid women’s coats in the fabrics of the heritage men’s wardrobe, the muted color palette and ageless spirit of the collection had a familiar and almost soothing effect in a time when that is much-needed. Lauren echoed that impression: “It’s a celebration of the timeless style of black and white emboldened in the sleek lines of tailored silhouettes,” he said.
Lauren added hints of sportswear to his formal lines

While Lauren kept things on the formal side, drawing on the reassuring language of a classic wardrobe, he couldn’t resist a few moments of sporty indulgence. Over her tuxedo, Vittoria Ceretti wore a hyper-elevated black wool varsity jacket with leather sleeves and the New York Yankees logo embroidered across the back. Gigi Hadid tucked a sporty black sweater with a graphic RL logo into a neat black trouser, and Lauren himself took his bow in a similarly styled look worn with black and white trainers. The collection often felt like a statement about the order and solace the traditional formal wardrobe can contribute within times of turbulence, but this is, after all, the designer who normalized the infiltration of sportswear into our everyday wardrobes.
He introduced new accessories and jazzed up his classics

Embellishing his black and white proposals, Lauren debuted a string of new accessories that walked the tightrope between daytime glamour and evening pizzazz. A new Doctor bag in alligator with gold hardware easily nailed the former category, backed up by Deco Frame bags in velvet or calfskin with delicate embroideries. The classic Ricky – named after the designer’s wife – was reinterpreted as a clutch and adorned with gold monogram stitching. Lauren complemented his monochrome palette with two-tone spectator shoes harking back to the golden age of New York, finished off his evening silhouettes with velvet pumps and sandals, and shook up his black and white ball with the occasional glossy riding boot trimmed with scarlet leather.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

From Skims to Les Benjamins — All the Tokyo Olympics Outfits to Look Out for

From Skims to Les Benjamins — All the Tokyo Olympics Outfits to Look Out for

Photo: Instagram/@skims
Kim Kardashian‘s Skims has been announced as the first-ever official loungewear outfitter for the national American team competing in the upcoming Tokyo Olympics. Shared on June 28, her shapewear brand will provide underwear, loungewear, and pajamas for female American athletes in the team. Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren, which has designed the opening and closing ceremony looks for Team USA since 2008, has designed this year’s outerwear too.

In anticipation of the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games scheduled to start on July 23, many national teams from around the world have also been proudly sharing their uniforms on social media, patriotically adorned with colors of their countries’ flags or familiar motifs, featuring designs by popular fashion brands.
Team Australia, for instance, is set to walk into Tokyo’s Japan National Stadium at the opening ceremony with their recently debuted green and gold Olympic uniforms by Asics. The shirts under the jackets, designed by Olympic super featherweight boxer and indigenous artist Paul Fleming, incorporate symmetrical designs of Japanese origami with 52 pairs of footsteps emerging from the centre, an an ode to indigenous athletes who have represented their country at the Games. Their stunning blazers, created by clothing brand Sportscraft, are lined with the monikers of 320 Australian gold medal winners.

Team Canada’s Olympic uniform for their closing ceremony, on the other hand, based on the ‘Canadian Tuxedo,’ took the Internet by a storm when it was announced last year. Canadian department store chain Hudson’s Bay collaborated with American denim brand Levi’s to create a denim jacket with striking patches on the front and black and red graffiti splattered on the back. More subdued red-and-white pieces, such as a warm-up jacket, striped track pants, and a T-shirt with a basic maple leaf motif, sit beneath this unconventional outerwear.
“Tokyo is also known for its street art and fashion,” Hudson’s Bay said. “We paid tribute to this in the must-have piece of the collection – the forever cool jean jacket. The graffiti graphic and unexpected patch placements capture a youthful and celebratory feel,” they added.

Eh, we hear people have been curious about our Canadian tuxedos after the release of @TeamUSA’s uniforms 🤔
Well you can 👀 all about our Tokyo 2020 kit here ➡️ https://t.co/ahIUBRTzhs pic.twitter.com/8hVSzRlOG5
— Team Canada (@TeamCanada) April 15, 2021

Team Turkey’s athletic wear, designed by Turkish designer Bünyamin Aydın, founder of famed Turkish brand Les Benjamins, was showcased just a few days ago on June 24 in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. The collection made use of Nike jersey uniforms, with a color scheme dominated by reds and whites, with some navy blue looks. Aydın explained how he merged his Turkish roots into the logo patterns for the official sportswear, visible on the accessories, tracksuits, windbreakers, zippered tops, and polos.
“The journey started off going back to my heritage. With my own brand Les Benjamins, I was always inspired by carpets and rugs and the heritage of them… I had to focus on Anatolian rugs, which are from this country. I went to the city where they create Anatolian rugs, and I was with the villagers there and they told me how they do the craftsmanship behind creating their rugs. It helped me design and get more inspired,” he stated, according to Forbes.

Made from recycled fiber and dyed with eco-friendly pigments, Team Taiwan’s Summer Olympics uniform is all about being sustainable. The vivid blue uniform also displays Team Taipei’s plum blossom logo, which is inspired by many national symbols, like the ethnic groups of Baiyue or Taiwan’s 100 mountain peaks.

While the Russian team will be neutral this year, sporting red, white and blue in abstract color blocks across the front and the Russian Olympic Committee’s logo, Czech Republic designer Zuzana Osako has created her national team’s designs using print dye, featuring cobalt blue jumpsuits and white strapless dresses for women, and cobalt blue vests, white shirts and trousers for men.

The Olympic games will last until August 8, and the Paralympic games will start August 25 and go until September 5.
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Why Pink Will Always Be the Color That Shocks, Entices, and Enthralls

Why Pink Will Always Be the Color That Shocks, Entices, and Enthralls

From a history of rich meaning and traditions, pink still rises as the color to shock, entice, and enthrall.
Photographed by Julien Vallon
Ursula von der Leyen’s mood was about as magenta pink as her blazer when she was denied a proper seat during a diplomatic visit to Turkey in April. The first woman to head the European Commission and one of the most powerful in the world was relegated to a couch as her colleague Charles Michel, president of the European Council, and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan of Turkey settled into two chairs. Afterward, standing tall before the European Parliament, Von der Leyen warned that sexism endures at all levels. The German politician even speculated if appearing in less feminine attire would have granted her the treatment she deserved that day. “Would this have happened if I had worn a suit and a tie?” she asked.
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Historically, pink has proven to be one of the most emotionally evocative and controversial colors of all the spectrum. It’s most dazzling iteration, shocking pink, was popularized by the late Italian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, who made the intense magenta her signature color in 1937, ensuring her subsequent designs stood out against the austere palettes of the battle-weary Forties. Decades later, further socio-political movements in the west would embrace the color again, when knitted pink hats became a symbol of the 2017 Women’s March, a worldwide protest movement against US President Donald Trump.
Pink is said to have been worn in ancient India and imperial China, as well as the upper echelons of 18th century European society, where it was a symbol of social status, since the materials used to dye such lavish garments were imported from expensive expeditions to central Asia and South America. In art, it symbolized youth and romance. Madame de Pompadour, the chief mistress of Louis XV of France, was so enamored with the color, French porcelain manufacturer Sèvres created a shade specifically for her, called Rose Pompadour, in 1757. Yet for centuries, the color was associated with masculinity, with boys being dressed in pink and girls in blue (with babies traditionally wearing white and the military mostly wearing red, pink was seen as appropriate for boys). This connection only started swapping in the 1940s, with the final transition to pink as a feminine color coming in the 1950s, when US first lady Mamie Eisenhower wore a pink gown as her inaugural dress, thereby cementing the color as one for “ladies.”
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Bright pink soon found its way to the big screen, too. Marilyn Monroe wore shocking pink to scintillating effect in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953). Dressed in a raspberry William Travilla silk strapless gown and matching opera gloves, Monroe swatted away suitors with her fan while singing “Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend.” In the 1957 Audrey Hepburn movie Funny Face, the magazine editor-in- chief character Maggie Prescott sings an ode to the color, exclaiming, “If she’s gotta think, think pink!” And who can forget the pink satin jackets donned by the Pink Ladies in the 1978 film Grease? The color made it off-screen, too, with many stars choosing shades of pink for some of their biggest moments. A tearful Gwyneth Paltrow wore a powder pink Ralph Lauren gown when she accepted her best actress Oscar in 1999; Rihanna chose a voluminous Giambattista Valli dress for the 2015 Grammy Awards; Lady Gaga displayed her unbridled sense of female emancipation on the 2019 Met Gala red carpet in a billowing shocking pink Brandon Maxwell dress.
Marilyn Monroe. Photo: Alamy
Designers from Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to Schiaparelli’s most recent successor, Daniel Roseberry, demonstrate that pink is a symbol of feminine power. For his SS21 couture presentation, Roseberry borrowed a page from the maison’s surrealist past, unfurling a glossy black molded bustier with chiseled abs, enveloped in a signature shocking pink bow. “The pink, in particular, I find to be a very modern code of the house,” reflects the artistic director.
Lady Gaga. Photo: Getty
Regional couture designers Zuhair Murad, Nicolas Jebran, Azzi & Osta, and Rabih Kayrouz are also helping propel pink through the millennium. Known for their fashion-forward couture, George Azzi and Assaad Osta opted for a dessert motif for their SS21 collection of floor-sweeping evening looks, including luxuriant jumpers fastened with glamorous swathes of iridescent melon satin. “We don’t see pink as a color for girls. With its endless shades, pink can be perfect for decoration, interiors, menswear… Anything, really. For women, it signifies blush powders, vibrant skin, attractiveness… It represents the softer or wilder side of a man or woman,” Azzi & Osta explains. Meanwhile, Chanel offered bubblegum pink tweed suits styled over magenta swimsuits for Resort 2021; Loewe featured the rosy hue as a backdrop for sunflower prints for SS21; Gucci SS21 offered electric pink as potential officewear in the form of a shirt and pants; and Stella McCartney broke out the potent hue across a one- sleeved dress with capuche for its SS21 presentation.

Many of the colors on the runway are conceived by textile mills like Taroni SpA near Italy’s palazzo- studded Lake Como. Its CEO and creative director, Maximilian Canepa, a 12th generation textile maker, is the keeper of more than 1000 color recipes influenced by everything from shiny salmon skins to corals; from camellias plucked from the family garden to the vintage cars. “If you take a color from something valuable or so rare in nature and from something powerful and rich, it resonates with creatives,” remarks Canepa.
Photo: Courtesy of Zuhair Murad
Pink does have its naysayers, though, especially among people rejecting the rigid gender-conformity still associated with it. While some parents choose not to buy their daughters any rose-colored clothing, others have spoken about being “pink shamed” for dressing them in pink instead of more gender-neutral colors. Perhaps pink will always carry the ability to shock. Roseberry considers that the prowess the color stands for has become even stronger over time. It is a hue ever related to power, creativity, and individuality – fit for the women of today.
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Originally published in the June 2021 issue of Vogue Arabia

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