Paris Couture Week

The Best Modest Looks from Paris Couture Week Fall/Winter 2022

The Best Modest Looks from Paris Couture Week Fall/Winter 2022

Jean Paul Gaultier
A great season for modest fashion, the Fall/Winter 2022 Paris Couture Week explored demure looks in all shapes and forms.
They were in abundance at Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Kyiv artist Olesia Trofymenko on a collection themed around folklore from Ukraine, the Tree of Life. Chanel, too, incorporated many full-length pieces like long skirts and trousers paired with coats and jackets. A gold ankle-length coat with the black Chanel monograms all over stood out in particular, as it is sure to be a hit in the Middle East. Hints of the region were also present at Alexis Mabille, where kaftan-inspired pieces and dresses with capes came down the runway. At Armani Privé, the designer explored his signature blazer and trouser silhouette in glitzy fabrics, including one in shocking pink. As for Balenciaga, Demna’s version of modesty came cloaked in anonymity as models wore futuristic headpieces and were dressed head-to-toe in cutting-edge fabrics.
Arab designers like Georges Hobeika, Elie Saab, and Ashi Studio touched upon modesty in statement and festive dresses that stood out amongst the sheer, embroidered pieces. Other party-appropriate looks were offered by Giambattista Valli, Rahul Mishra, and Schiaparelli using elements like feathers, golden-thread leaves, and velvet.

Below, check out all the best modest looks so far from the Fall/Winter 2022 Paris Couture Week.
Chanel
Dior
Balenciaga
Armani Privé
Jean Paul Gaultier
Giambattista Valli
Viktor & Rolf
Alexandre Vauthier
Chanel
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
Elie Saab
Alexis Mabille
Rahul Mishra
Alexis Mabille
Giambattista Valli
Balenciaga
Dior
Georges Hobeika
Armani Privé
Giambattista Valli
Jean Paul Gaultier
Dior
Armani Privé
Ashi Studio
Alexandre Vauthier
Schiaparelli
Georges Hobeika
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Saudi Model Amira Al Zuhair is Taking Over the Paris Couture Week Runways This Season

Saudi Model Amira Al Zuhair is Taking Over the Paris Couture Week Runways This Season

Georges Hobeika
We’re only a couple of days into the Fall/Winter 2022 Paris Couture Week, and Arab representation on the runway has already had a moment. Walking the shows for not one but four coveted designers, Saudi Arabian model Amira Al Zuhair is taking couture week by storm. If she looks familiar, it’s because Al Zuhair has previously fronted one of Vogue Arabia’s December 2020 covers celebrating up-and-coming models in the Kingdom, and continues to feature in the magazine’s editorials since.
Giambattista Valli
On the first day of couture week, Al Zuhair modeled the Fall/Winter 2022 couture collection of fellow Arab, Georges Hobeika. The Lebanese designer’s Mother Nature-inspired collection saw Al Zuhair dressed in a multi-colored piece, featuring a sheer blue top with floor-grazing sleeves, and a two-toned embellished skirt. Bringing the day to the end, Al Zuhair was spotted at the Giambattista Valli show next, where she took the runway in a maximalist number—a brown dress with a voluminous, layered skirt.
Armani Privé
The next day, the model walked the runway for Alexis Mabille twice in two distinct looks—one, featuring a collared shirt and corseted skirt, and the other, a minimalistic, slinky dress. Later, she was a part of Giorgio Armani’s Armani Privé show—one of the most revered ones in the fashion calendar—which saw the octogenarian designer met with a standing ovation. “Thank you for this magical moment!” wrote Al Zuhair on a clip of her walking the runway in a sparkling blue look shared on Instagram.
Alexis Mabille
Looking at the model’s busy start to the shows and with two more packed days left in Paris Couture Week, it is safe to say this may not be the last time we will see Al Zuhair on the runway this season.
Read Next: The Best Behind-the-Scenes Moments from the Fall 2022 Couture Shows

Amina Muaddi Put a Playful Spin on a Gray Skirt Suit at Paris Couture Week

Amina Muaddi Put a Playful Spin on a Gray Skirt Suit at Paris Couture Week

Photo: Getty
Skirt suit to a couture show? Amina Muaddi said yes to the season’s polished-meets-sensual trend in Paris this week. Attending the Dior Fall/Winter 2022 show, the Jordanian-Romanian accessories designer was spotted wearing a grey two-piece from the French fashion house.
Muaddi’s coordinated pick for the day came in a textured slate gray, which she contrasted with a classic white button-up shirt. Those who keep up with the former Vogue Arabia cover star will know that her outfits are far from basic and always come with a touch of playfulness, which was also the case with her latest ensemble. Peeking through from beneath her shirt was a black lace bralette, while the skirt came with black bike shorts that lent a sporty vibe to her otherwise smart look.
As someone who creates shoes and bags for a living, Muaddi knows how to make the most of her accessories, even when they are not from her namesake brand. For yesterday’s show, the 34-year-old’s arm candy of choice was a Mini Lady Dior bag in a light blue shade that added a pop of color to her neutral ensemble, paired with white strappy heels. The color play did not end there. Painted over her eyelids was a wash of bright pink eyeshadow which livened up her beauty look, completed with wing liner, and a glossy pout.
Read Next: Amina Muaddi Wears a Trifecta of Colorful and Minimalistic Outfits at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Everything You Need To Know About Schiaparelli’s Sparkling Paris Couture Week Show

Everything You Need To Know About Schiaparelli’s Sparkling Paris Couture Week Show

Photo: Vogue Runway
Elsa Schiaparelli had Salvador Dalí for Surrealist inspiration. The house’s current Creative Director, Daniel Roseberry, has Nadia Lee Cohen. A multi-hyphenate model-photographer-artist, she’s hot off of the launch of her latest campaign, which saw her transform Kim Kardashian into a 1980s glamazon for Skims’s metallic swimwear collection, a retrofuturism confection of blonde bouffants, pampered poodles and turquoise eyeshadow.
Photo: Vogue Runway
Photo: Vogue Runway
While last season saw Cohen and the short-lived, enigmatic power couple of Ye and Julia Fox on the front row, Sabrina Dhowre-Elba, Pixie Lott and Emma Watson were on-call to show their support this season. Meanwhile, just over 3,000 online voyeurs worldwide excitedly quipped in the comments of the YouTube livestream pre-show. ‘I want to be your husband, Daniel!’ said one, as others speculated who had received the prestigious invitation. ‘Is Julia Fox gonna be there?’ asked one, ‘Is CL [the K-Pop megastar] attending?’ said another. It was a no to Fox, a yes to CL, and there was even a royal appearance in the form of the Princess of Thailand, Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya, dressed in a double-denim ensemble from the house’s AW21 ready-to-wear line.
Photo: Vogue Runway
After guests took their seats and the lights of the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs were dimmed, the shadowy silhouette of Roseberry’s first look appeared, a My Fair Lady-esque nipped waist gown featuring bold shoulders and a deconstructed torso, which showcased the intricate boning of the silk corset beneath. As the model descended the velvet-adorned staircase, there was no question that unfathomable glamour was on the agenda for Schiaparelli this season. ‘This is the return of couture!’ said Editor, Richard Dennen.
Photo: Vogue Runway
Photo: Vogue Runway
This season, Roseberry returned to the very meaning of fashion for inspiration for his aptly named ‘Born Again’ collection. ‘All of us who work in fashion know that the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly. It’s a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It’s also provocative, upending, challenging and meaningful. It’s breathtaking. It’s beautiful,’ said the designer. High-brow fashion exemplar was certainly on offer, as embodied by supermodel and former Tatler cover star, Eva Herzigová, in a black velvet pencil skirt with outré cream silk sleeves that gathered like melting caramel. Elsewhere, pastel silk skirts were tucked neatly like the petals of a rose, creating bold and unabashedly glamorous shapes and voluminous hemlines. Speaking of flora, bouquets erupted from the busts of tailored jackets and corsets in an apparent explosion of flower-power-gone-fabulous. This was fashion personified.
Unbridled resplendence was the order of the day, with velvet gowns accentuated with ruched silk bustles, peaked bodices with deep navel-grazing necklines and a legion of models in marvellous millinery, as if off to Ascot on Planet Glam. Thick velvet chokers were a recurring theme, as were statement gold embellishments. Elsewhere in the collection, dresses masterfully created entirely of strands of pearls and beads made for a glittering affair of bijoux-as-bodywear.
Photo: Vogue Runway
Photo: Vogue Runway
Since Roseberry’s arrival at the house in 2019, the designer-extraordinaire has returned Schiaparelli to the forefront of fashion, creating ambitiously elegant designs brought to life through the guise of surrealist intellectualism. His signature beguiling riffs of seasons past were rife throughout today’s collection in the form breastplates à la SS21, decadently beaded boleros from AW21’s ‘Matador Couture’, and gilded gold accoutrements reminiscent of SS22’s jewellery-heavy ensembles. Today, the continuation of the house’s ‘toe-heels’ were yet another reminder of the weird and wonderful whimsy that transcends all things Schiaparelli.
Photo: Vogue Runway
Photo: Vogue Runway
Thanks to Roseberry, Paris Couture Week is off to a great start, having provided an unapologetically extravagant debut of the new season’s collections. So lace up your boots and button up your gowns because couture is back, baby! And Roseberry is the Zeitgeist.
Originally published in Tatler.com
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The 10 Best Looks from Zuhair Murad’s Pirate-Inspired Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection

The 10 Best Looks from Zuhair Murad’s Pirate-Inspired Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection

Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad continues to make people dream with his couture, and rightly so. As one of the Lebanese designers reeling from the loss of their ateliers wrecked by the Beirut blast in 2020, Murad sees his work as a hopeful balm on a world that was deprived of celebration. This season, his designs aim to uplift and spark joy by romanticizing the idea of travel and reemergence.
The couturier looked to pirates for inspiration, mainly, their sense of grandeur, freedom, confidence, and bravery, as they journeyed across the high seas centuries ago. Shoulders and dresses dripping with crystals and pearls evoked lost treasures, while some silhouettes gave a nod to navy officers’ jackets, and tricorne hats and silk headbands further enriched the concept. In true Zuhair Murad fashion, his signature flowy dresses with daring slits and Bardot necklines were present too, but patterned with island maps, and embroidered with ships. A closer look at the carefully embroidered sequins on some of the dresses would reveal their emulation of grid lines on a map and the constellations pirates looked up to for navigating the seas. Red carpet-worthy and party-appropriate numbers also came in the form of statement gowns and mini dresses made with luxurious and sensual fabrics like organza, lamé, light-reflecting tulle, brocade, and chiffon.
Take a look at the best pieces from Zuhair Murad’s SS22 couture collection below.
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
Zuhair Murad Spring/Summer 2022 couture
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Lebanese Designers Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, and More to Hold Shows at Upcoming Paris Couture Week

Lebanese Designers Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, and More to Hold Shows at Upcoming Paris Couture Week

Zuhair Murad SS20 Couture. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Lebanese label Zuhair Murad is set to take part in and bring its FW21 collection to Paris Couture Week. Taking place in the French capital next month, the event marks a return of physical shows after two seasons of digital presentations. Eight runway events will be held by a select group of eight labels, with a limited number of invite-only guests, according to the provisional calendar published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday.
Other Lebanese labels, such Georges Hobeika, worn by Jennifer Lopez; Elie Saab, worn by Emma Stone; and Maison Rabih Kayrouz, worn by Céline Dion by are also set to hold virtual shows.
The in-person event, which will run between Monday, July 5 and Thursday, July 8, will also host other designers’ catwalk displays, including Dior, Azzaro Couture, Chanel, Giorgio Armani Prive, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vaishali S. Balenciaga will also make a comeback to haute couture after 53 years with an in-person show at its historic headquarters at 10 Avenue Georges V on July 7 at 11:30 am.
Elie Saab SS21 photographed by Anthony Arquier for Vogue Arabia
A further 25 brands, including Fendi, Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab and Viktor & Rolf, are sticking with live-streamed virtual presentations despite relaxed Covid-19 restrictions. France will allow indoor dining from June 9, and will fully lift its curfew on June 30.
Also sure to bring enthusiasm is Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, who will present his first couture collection in Paris as an invited guest designer of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. He will close the week with a digital show on July 8 at 8 pm, becoming the first African American designer to join the couture schedule.
While not part of the calendar, Maison Alaia, founded by the late Tunisian designer Azzedine Alaïa, will also make a long-awaited runway return under new designer Pieter Mulier next month. It will take place a day before the start of Paris Couture Week.
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“I needed to fall in love with fashion again” – Alber Elbaz on Ending His Hiatus with AZ Factory

“I needed to fall in love with fashion again” – Alber Elbaz on Ending His Hiatus with AZ Factory

Following a five-year hiatus from fashion, Alber Elbaz is back, rejuvenated, with his new brand AZ Factory bursting with fresh ideas.
Alber Elbaz. Photo: InDigital.tv

Alber Elbaz is running late for his Zoom call. “I had technical issues!” he apologizes, his familiar face – black spectacles framed by a freshly dyed platinum coif – appearing on the screen. Considering that it’s been five years since his unceremonious departure as creative director at French fashion house Lanvin, a few minutes more is well worth the wait.

If, over the years, Elbaz didn’t altogether disappear – resurfacing every so often on fashion’s news pages to unveil varied product collaborations – his great comeback never materialized, until now. “I needed to fall in love with fashion again,” he says of his time off. “I asked questions about our métier and where we were today. I wanted to imagine the future of what would come next.” While admitting to being bored, he considers ennui a vital step to reinvigorating creativity. “The fear is that when you have done so much, you just recreate and don’t innovate,” he comments. “I listened to women and tried to understand them. How are women evolving? What changes are they traversing and what’s next?” He proposed a reset and the birth of his AZ Factory, where he positions himself as producer. “I believe in beauty,” he shares. “Beauty and comfort define modernity but purpose and hope are what I want more of,” he says of his new brand, which is backed by Swiss luxury goods holding company Richemont and occupies a floor at the Fondation Cartier in Paris.

AZ Factory rolls out with three “projects” or collections. The first is inspired by a woman’s body. “I’ve seen how women struggle with weight all their lives,” comments Elbaz. I wanted to create a smart fabric, a dress that hugs you, with areas having more compression and others where tension is released,” he continues, adding that it “looks like a sneaker.” While it is perforated for breathability like a sock sneaker, it looks more like an updated little black dress that women can finally get in and out of themselves, thanks to an embellished puller attached to the zip. The fabric was created with the support of a microfiber yarn laboratory in Spain that makes microfiber of nylon mashup with a 3D pattern for AZ Factory from a startup in Amsterdam. The technical fabric, which could best be compared to activewear, is of superior softness and stretch and can be rolled up and thrown into a suitcase, pandemic permitting. “Technology doesn’t kill the dream, it only makes me dream differently,” Elbaz states.

The clothes come in all sizes and at an accessible price point “From €350 to €1 300 – in my previous job, we had T-shirts that cost more!” remarks Elbaz. A second collection offers what the designer refers to as switchwear; the idea of going from leisure to evening wear in two minutes. Hoodies are paired with duchesse skirts and tuxedo jackets made from recycled yarn. “We’re always told we need to design for young people – I don’t understand the concept,” he notes. “It’s more democratic.” The third collection consists of pajamas to wear inside and out. Prints feature hugging – “What I missed most this year” – and kissing, though “not French kissing!” he laughs. Pointy sneakers are featured throughout and women who miss how pumps elongate a leg will be swift adopters of this silhouette that appears like an instant signature. “I’ve done my share of showing what I can do,” says Elbaz. “Now, it’s about giving women solutions and things that they wish to have in the world we are living in. ” He pauses. “My dream was always to be a doctor and now it’s a chance for me to have my laboratory – my factory – and have the time to make it happen.”
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