London Fashion Week

Lojain Omran with the designers. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
This London Fashion Week brought an exciting new initiative to the forefront, featuring Saudi Arabian designers Atelier Hekayat and ArAm Designs for the launch of a new endeavor. It will feature a number of artists, fashion designers and filmmakers, all of whom will have access to other creatives attached to the British Fashion Council who can support and mentor creatives in each sector. The Alula Creates platform itself comes as part of the Saudi Arabian efforts to encourage female creatives in the region to collaborate with leading industry professionals and access development funds to support their work.
Arwa AlAmmari of ArAm Designs with her models. Photo: Noorunisa
The program has since developed and Atelier Hekayat and ArAm Designs were selected to emerge into the UK landscape and showcase their Spring/Summer 2024 collections at the Twenty-Two in London for London Fashion Week on September 19. It was a star-studded event with the likes of Tania Fares of Fashion Trust Arabia, Helena Christensen, Mila Al Zahrani and Lojain Omran present.
Sisters Abeer and Alia of Atelier Hekayat with their models. Photo: Noorunisa
Atelier Hekayat’s collection showed to be boldly monochromatic with widened sleeves and a firm nod to evening wear. Each piece was made by the brand specifically for a woman who likes to stand out. Abeer and Alia Oraif, the two sisters behind the namesake brand mentioned that they were incredibly happy to be a part of the initiative. “We feel very grateful to have been chosen to be featured and showcase our collection in London.” The sisters also discusses how important it is to be female creatives in today’s world: “We are so thrilled to be given such a privilege, we feel this is so important for more female designers and everything we do is with love, every dress we make is made out of love for our clients.” The pieces from their collection are ethereal and dramatic, the essence of each look creates a power of extravagance for the women who wear their pieces.

The second brand featured at London Fashion Week was ArAm Designs, founded by Arwa AlAmmari, who started off as a painter and sculptor and eventually stepped into the role of a fashion designer. The Saudi Arabian creative hand draws all her patterns intricately and prints her creations onto fabric, making each piece a one-of-a-kind treasure. AlAmmari was named one of the “most creative minds on the planet” as well as making the Forbes top 30 women in the Middle East with a fashion brand. In her words, “each piece is made intricately and with love, the women that wear my pieces bring it to life.” Each garment is handcrafted in Saudi Arabia and described by AlAmmari as “avant-garde femininity blended beautifully by my heritage.”

Below, more pictures from the special event.
Lojain Omran. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
Mila Al Zahrani. Photo: Courtesy AlUla Creates
Tania Fares. Photo: Noorunisa

Photo: Getty
Daniel Lee staged his second show for Burberry in Highbury Fields, with a practical collection which felt appropriate for a morning stroll through one of London’s many parks. British Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen shares the five key takeaways from the show, below.

The show took place in Highbury Fields

It was an outdoor affair at Burberry on Monday afternoon, or at least as close as you get to it in the Islington area. For his second show for the British house, Daniel Lee erected a tent within Highbury Fields and filled it with green benches draped in quilted blankets topped with empty hip flasks. As guests arrived – Kylie Minogue, Naomi Campbell, Mo Farah and Skepta amongst them – food vans outside the tent served hot drinks and Eccles cakes to cement the particular national spirit Lee is bringing to Burberry: a contemporary city take on British country culture; Princess Anne goes to Archway, if you will.
Jewelry and hardware prints adorned the collection

Print played a huge part in Lee’s proposal. Motifs of jewelry and hardware – and the knight clips, shields and ‘B’ buckles of Burberry’s revived archive branding – added a bourgeois elegance to his somewhat stark silhouette, which felt like a vague riff on the daintier sides to British dressing. If there was a scarf-wearing lady reference in there, she was abstracted in dresses made from scarf-like ruffles, which Lee also perverted through wet-look material that evoked bin bags. As this season’s answer to last season’s graphic primary-colored checks, the patterns brought a new sense of lightness to proceedings.
The silhouette was practical and park-ready

Lee described his sophomore collection for Burberry as “an exploration of lightness, sensuality, beauty and elegance.” Evoked through the brand’s eternal codes – the trench coat, above all – he introduced a graphic, geometric silhouette that accentuated the shoulders through the sharpness of epaulettes or triangular cut lines, and a dropped hip through low-rise trousers and belts. The trench coat appeared largely in its original form, albeit oversized and squared and often worn as dresses. In his approach to the house’s emblem, Lee’s intentions felt particularly realistic: practical and park-ready.
Motifs evoked British flowers and fruits

As the show came to its climax, the nature-centricity Lee is bringing to Burberry – the great outdoors, the urban outdoors, the pretend-outdoors – came full bloom in dresses adorned with “English garden flowers and soft summer fruits” through poppy, forget-me-not and rose prints and embroideries. They made for a very tactile, textured and three-dimensional contrast to the sleek, clean, sharply-tailored suits Lee proposed for his male clientele. There was a case for quiet luxury in there, and a big proposition for red carpet dressing through the lens of Lee’s fuss-free Burberry.
The accessories were inimitably Daniel Lee

Set to a soundtrack by the British musician Dean Blunt – which included a blast-from-the-past sample of Victoria Beckham’s brilliant solo track Out of Your Mind – the collection continued the intensified focus on accessories that characterised Lee’s first show for Burberry. The shoes echoed the robust sci-fi sensibility of his Bottega Veneta bestsellers (and reached a zenith in crystal-encrusted crocs-like slippers), while bags with massive statement straps came in organic silhouettes with added hardware pizzazz, nodding at the prints’s focus on jewels and metals.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

With London Fashion Week in full swing, Arab designers on the calendar are making waves with their Spring/Summer 2024 shows. Below, discover the new Atelier Zuhra and Noon By Noor collections.

Noon By Noor
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
‘Moonlit’ by Bahraini label Noon by Noor, presented at London’s ‘HERE at Outernet,’ is a radiant testament to the boundless creativity of its founders, Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa. This collection, for Spring/Summer 2024, masterfully captures the ethereal dance between light and darkness, mirroring the moon’s ever-shifting phases.
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
The designers have woven a tapestry of contrasts throughout the collection. From the billowing cape-like sleeves that create an airy and voluminous allure, to the square-cut shirts, some cropped, others transformed into bibs, this collection infuses different elements with remarkable versatility. The inclusion of utilitarian cargo pockets on chinos, shorts, and cotton dresses tied at the back brings a dash of practicality to the elegance, while the jackets stand as paragons of clean lines and simplicity, artfully devoid of linings, facings, or canvas.
Photo: Courtesy of Noon By Noor
In a harmonious collaboration with their creative team, Shaikha Noor and Shaikha Haya have taken a cinematic approach, exploring the intricate facets of the Noon By Noor woman and seamlessly blending romance, softness, independence, and strength to celebrate the unique spirit of women. This collection, aptly adapted for the Middle Eastern climate, exudes confidence and strength, truly embodying Noon By Noor’s vision of harmonious contrasts and adaptive creativity.
Atelier Zuhra
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
In a dazzling display of gracefulness and nostalgia, Atelier Zuhra, the Dubai-based couture fashion house helmed by Omani designer Rayan Al Sulaimani, transported us to the refined opulence of the Victorian age with its latest collection, ‘Timeless Beauty.’ This enchanting collection pays homage to the era of grandeur, seamlessly blending the past with the present.
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
Each piece in this collection was a testament to the house’s signature craftsmanship, which has caught the attention of stars like Beyoncé. The intricate embroidery, and choice of fabrics like silk taffeta, French tulle, and silk organza resulted in pieces that embraced femininity to the fullest. Rich tones of red ruby, luxurious blue sapphire, and affluent fuchsia also created a captivating visual symphony that resonated with a sense of regal splendor and modern vibrancy.
Photo: Courtesy of Atelier Zuhra
Read Next: Hijabi Runner Intisar Abdul-Kader Just Walked the Runway for the First Time at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Photo: Getty
The British Fashion Council has confirmed London Fashion Week will take place on September 16-20, but Burberry is bowing out and brands have been advised to cancel any “non-essential” events.
A pared-back London Fashion Week will go ahead next week but will lose one of its biggest names after Burberry said it is cancelling its show following the death of Queen Elizabeth II on September 8.
In a statement released on Thursday evening, shortly after the announcement of the Queen’s death, the British Fashion Council (BFC) said: “London Fashion Week is a business-to-business event, and an important moment for designers to show their collections at a specific moment in the fashion calendar, we recognise the work that goes into this moment.

“Therefore, shows and presentations of collections can continue, but we are asking that designers respect the mood of the nation and period of national mourning by considering the timing of their image release.” The BFC has recommended postponing or cancelling “non-essential” events like parties and openings as a mark of respect and will pause its own communication channels, or dedicate them to the Queen, until after the 10-day period of mourning.
Burberry said on Thursday evening it will not move ahead with its Spring/Summer 2023 show on 17 September “as a mark of respect”.
The date of the Queen’s funeral is yet to be confirmed. It is expected to take place around 10 days after her death, on either 18 or 19 September. Shows set to take place on the day of the Queen’s funeral “will need to be rescheduled”, the BFC recommended in the statement. The BFC also advises that designers with retail stores “may want to consider 24[-hour] immediate closure, black armbands for staff and closure on the day of the funeral”.
Prior to the news of the Queen’s death, London was gearing up for its biggest fashion week in three years, with both established and emerging designer brands returning to the schedule after pandemic-related disruptions.
Designers currently scheduled to show on 18 September — 10 days from the Queen’s death — include Nensi Dojaka, 16 Arlington, Rejina Pyo, Halpern, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Stefan Cooke and Richard Quinn; shows scheduled for 19 September include Christopher Kane, Roksanda and Chopova Lowena. A representative for Purple PR, which is overseeing Yuhan Wang and David Koma’s shows on 18 September, said the shows will not take place or be made public if the funeral is scheduled for the same day.
In the aftermath of the Queen’s passing, tributes poured in from the fashion industry, including the BFC, Burberry and Christopher Kane. The London Fashion Week website was updated with the message: “It was a great honour in 2018 to host Her Majesty at London Fashion Week to launch the QEII Award for British Design, which recognises design excellence and positive impact. Her Majesty’s effortless style, charm and sense of fun were evident, and her passion for supporting young creatives will continue to inspire the next generation.”
Originally published in Voguebusiness.com
Read next: Arab Leaders Pay Tributes to Queen Elizabeth II Following Her Death

With Storm Eunice wreaking havoc in London, fashion week continued with a mix of physical and digital shows, and designers showcasing their own brand of organized chaos. Upcycling and recycling emerged as major themes of this leg of the fall 2022 fashion month, and runways saw a number of colorful patchwork pieces and uplifting new silhouettes. While these would feel right at home on a modestly dressed influencer’s Instagram feed, they were also practical enough to keep warm in, once the mercury drops.
Matty Bovan showcased de- and reconstructed bomber jackets and parkas, and Conner Ives catered to the Gen-Z with leisure suits, and silk-fringed dresses and skirts, while Elleme brought forth risqué corsetry, made winter-appropriate—and modest—by way of unconventional layers. Nensi Dojaka, the current winner of the LVMH Prize and the designer known for her daring, lingerie-based aesthetic, widened her horizons by presenting a few demure outfits centered around puffer jackets and knitwear. Bahraini label Noon By Noor flew the flag for the region by including a variety of conservative options in its fall collection that flowed seamlessly between sportswear and couture.
A few designers also worked with their strengths in new ways. At Molly Goddard, her colorful ruffled and poodle skirts, and long fishtail dresses came with sensible outerwear and snug layers. Simone Rocha’s lace-trimmed dresses layered over other dresses were contrasted with biker jackets, and Richard Quinn’s signature head-to-toe florals and maximalist silhouettes were further exaggerated. Venturing further into tailoring, Emilia Wickstead’s modest offerings included double-breasted long coats and slightly oversized suits, and Roksanda’s blazers paired with fluid dresses and puffy volumes.
Elleme
Matty Bovan
Harris Reed
Noon By Noor
Molly Goddard
Conner Ives
Ahluwalia
Conner Ives
Molly Goddard
Richard Quinn
Rejina Pyo
Harris Reed
Simone Rocha
Raf Simons
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
Emilia Wickstead
Simone Rocha
Supriya Lele
Vivienne Westwood
Noon By Noor
Nensi Dojaka
Richard Quinn
Raf Simons
Roksanda
Rejina Pyo
Roksanda
Ahluwalia
Read Next: The 17 Best Modest Looks from New York Fashion Week Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

As the autumn/winter 2022 shows continue, the fashion pack has decamped from New York to windswept London – and, as always, the fashion on the street is as bold and experimental as that on the runways. From eye-popping outerwear and clashing prints to some of the season’s most coveted accessories, here’s what the best-dressed guests are wearing, as captured by Vogue’s street-style photographer Phil Oh.
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
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Photo: Phil Oh
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Photo: Phil Oh
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Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Photo: Phil Oh
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk

Photo: Courtesy of Noon by Noor
Designers behind Bahraini label Noon by Noor, cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, have announced a special initiative for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. The brand has partnered with Think Pink – Bahrain Breast Cancer Society, a non-profit organization dedicated to supporting breast cancer awareness, education, and research in the country.
As part of the collaboration, the brand will donate 10% of its e-commerce sales towards Think Pink, and offer free shipping on online orders to customers for the entire month of October.

Founded in 2004, Think Pink has been actively raising funds to support breast cancer awareness, education, and research. The organization’s mission states that it “aims to empower people at grass root levels through collaboration with local affiliates to continue to promote the importance of education and screening programs and community-based outreach projects.”
Noon by Noor’s aesthetic is a fusion of understated luxury and poised femininity. The label is known for its timeless and wearable pieces with meticulous construction and details such as tailored blazers, and crisp cotton shirts. Most recently, the brand made its London Fashion Week debut, with a collection titled ‘Light’. The collection drew inspiration from pearl divers in Bahrain and consisted of flowing slip dresses, suiting with a fluid touch, in a muted color palette.
Read Next: Help Raise Funds for Breast Cancer Research By Visiting These UAE Hotels

The spring/summer 2022 London fashion week seemed to be all about offering fresh new takes. A closer at the collections reveals the presence of the “man’s suit” in a lot of them as the silhouette passed through the hands of various designers. Edward Crutchley summarized the look of the “woman in charge” in puffed sleeves and straight-legged pants, while Elleme showcased a version ideal for her day off. Osman Yousefzada, Palmer Harding, Victoria Beckham, Noon By Noor, and Vivienne Westwood also had their fair share of playing around with the suit.
The playful spirit of these designers also shone through with the colorful paint splash technique. Halpern gave us an exclusive look at what it means to simply have fun; Anne Mason, Eirinn Haylow, and Roksanda appeared to splatter the entire paint bucket on their garments; while Lupe Gajardo merely dipped hers into it. Feathers — lots of them — are also having their time in the sun as showcased by David Coma, Huishan Zhang, and Sharon Wauchob’s daring takes. However, what is most noteworthy, are the rounded shapes that came down the runway — from Richard Quinn’s yellow rounds to Halpern’s walking crystal ball.
Read Next: 25 Uplifting Spring 2022 Looks from New York Fashion Week