fashion trust arabia 2022

Throughout history, fashion has proven its power as a way of communication, especially when languages fail to connect and unite. As the world shifts and changes, the power to express emotions and boldly tackle elusive topics is more vital than ever before. Catering to a region that is determined to leap towards the future, these designers prioritize craftsmanship and unbridled innovation. Fashion Trust Arabia (FTA) co-chair Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani is known for her eagle eye and elevated taste. A true connoisseur of art and fashion, Her Excellency launched FTA in 2018 under the patronage of HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser as honorary chair, and with co-chair Tania Fares.
Burc Akyol
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
A guest Turkish designer finalist to Fashion Trust Arabia, Burc Akyol is a testament to how far a person’s upbringing can shape his entire journey. Raised in a household led by strong Turkish women in France, Akyol learned from a young age the preferences and nature of competent women. From his grandmother to his mother and two sisters, the designer’s aesthetic reflects his female idols. Often genderless and artisanal, his work is seductive, dramatic, and powerful, with undisputed admiration for primary colors, especially black. On the other hand, the designer’s respect for intricate tailoring comes from his father, a tailor, subcontracted for Parisian couture houses. “My father had to learn on his own; it was not a chosen profession. I guess what influences me most about him is how putting his mind to something meant he could do it. We only know the limits we accept.” Naturally, he finds solace in tuxedos, naming them the perfect uniform.
Şansım Adalı
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
Designing for better days, Şansım Adalı’s aesthetic speaks volumes of her romantic, colorful, and ultra-feminine aesthetic. With tulle being her signature fabric, her “street couture” designs are often contemporary and dramatic, catering to a woman who refuses to get lost in the background. Loyal to her Syrian roots as well as her Turkish identity, Adali’s brand, Sudi Etuz, underlines refined craftsmanship that is reflected in detailed beading, elaborate ruffles, and structured tailoring. “I find inspiration not only in what I experience daily, but also, in what I dream to experience in the future as I am well immersed in digital projects and technology.” While keen to incorporate sustainable fabrics and techniques, Adali also refuses to miss an opportunity to experiment with technology, such as her successful venture to showcase her designs virtually, capitalizing on the futuristic potential of the metaverse.
Leila Roukni
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
After a decade in the business, Moroccan designer Leila Roukni woke up one morning and decided to embrace her inner main-character energy and change the rules of the game. Launching her luxury accessories label in 2019, Roukni’s Talel aims to challenge monotonous shapes and forms. The Parisian brand’s leather handbags and accessories define irregularity and unpredictability as sought-after fashion statements. A reflection of the designer’s free soul, Talel is made for the women of today, who often find solace in their most trusted pieces of accessories. Expressive and colorful, the Talel bags are profound storytellers of Roukni’s travels, dreams and needs as a contemporary Arab woman.
Amna Alsalem
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
Growing up surrounded by priceless art, it was no surprise that Amna Alsalem would choose to forge her way into the creative industry and teach herself the techniques to craft her designs. Being the daughter of an art collector, Alsalem’s admiration for art remains unscathed. The ready-to-wear designer follows her own rhythm as she often regards clothes as an artistic expression that should withstand the test of time and continue to prove authenticity. Produced in Kuwait, utilizing materials sourced between Paris and Milan, Alsalem’s garments can be instantly identified by their meticulous tailoring and levelof craftsmanship.
Yasmin Mansour
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
An entrepreneur, Yasmin Mansour established one of Qatar’s earliest fashion houses in 2014. Inspired by art and architecture, the designer appreciates the liberty of dreams, eloquence of art, and power of collaboration. Moreover, Mansour’s definition of luxury does not veer away from the principles of sustainable fashion and women empowerment. “When it comes to what I want to achieve next, sustainability is the current goal; I want to showcase how luxury clothing can also be sustainable,” shares the designer when asked about her top priority. Her most recent collection, Kitabaat Haute Couture FW22-23, is the result of her collaboration with Qatar-based artist Bouthayna Al Muftah. Bridging the undisputed beauty of traditions and liberty of modernity, the collection focuses on shape and form as it encompasses fine pleats, dramatic silhouettes, and statement bows – all complemented by Al Muftah’s cursive calligraphy.
Duha Bukadi
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
With humor and the intention to make a lasting impression, Pupchen is a sustainable footwear brand that is not for the faint-hearted. Initiated by Tunisian designer and architect Duha Bukadi, Pupchen revolts against tradition, routine, and monotone. “We are supposed to have fun with everything in our life,” Bukadi continues with a smile. “I wanted to create these shoes that will spark a conversation between two strangers in the street, that will be something to make fun of during a very serious meeting.” Often inspired by her vivid dreams and always aiming to offer a satire commentary on everyday life, Pupchen’s footwear is as practical and comfortable as it is nonconformist. Designed in Tunisia, with prototypes made in Maison Massaro, part of Chanel’s Métiers d’Art in Paris, the pieces are manufactured in Italy.
Yousra Elsadig
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
Yousra Elsadig’s Boutique de Nana has become synonymous with sustainable luxury and social activism. Ever since the brand’s launch in 2016, the Sudanese designer has been keen on being recognized for masterful design and precision as well as impactful fundraising. “Brands these days are blank canvases that may convey any message they feel strongly about. They can shed light on issues that need the world’s attention via their designs and consequently campaigns,” Elsadig adds. Often inspired by her homeland, Elsadig’s narrative is peppered with traditional craftsmanship as well as progressive techniques and modest styles – creating a balance between soulful design and flawless delivery.
Kazna Asker
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
Fueled by her sense of activism and desire to bring forward positive change, Kazna Asker is a new talent who aims to change unfortunate realities and bring forward a better future through her designs as well as her growing community. “I aim to use fashion as a platform to encompass the  values associated with community, activism, and charity by representing the people of my community who are not usually represented or have a voice within the fashion world,” shares Asker enthusiastically. Making use of the best of both worlds, the outspoken designer is continuously inspired by her Yemeni heritage as well as her life in the UK. Hence her unexpected combination of sportswear aesthetic and woven Middle Eastern fabrics. Asker’s design persona is best represented through her matching sets for men and women, as well as a range of tracksuits and contemporary abayas.
Dalila Barkache
Photo: Malak Kabbani. Vogue Arabia, November 2022
Defying orthodox norms, Dalila Barkache enjoys tampering with the conventional restrictions of jewelry-making. The Moroccan designer is known for her edgy and wild shapes that give traditional fine jewelry a much-needed twist. Between her roots, her early upbringing in suburban Paris, and her years as a jewelry designer in Beirut, Barkache tells many stories through her designs; and most importantly, she gifts her customers an extension of her life experience. While paying homage to traditional Berber ornaments, the designer adds touches of modern romanticism and rock-and-roll accents. After more than a decade since the inception of her eponymous brand, Barkache has reached a wide range of loyal customers, from Dover Street Market in London, to New York, and Ginza in Tokyo.
Originally published in the November 2022 issue of Vogue Arabia
Style: Natalie WesternoffPhotography assistant: Fenton Bailey Hair: Liam RussellMakeup: Bari Khalique Fashion assistant: Caprice Brown Model: Mariam Abdallah at Select
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