dries van noten

The Row
The Row
This AW 2023, The Row did not disappoint from its usual less-is-more status quo. Although it might not be making all the noise that fashion week promises, its silent take on luxurious and wearable fashion is its prime goal. Think oversized coats, striking black and white silhouettes, tonal scarf wrapping and head-to-toe cashmere. This collection took an extreme to cover-ups, with one exception of a single black ruffled evening dress. Sophistication is at the core of everything the New York-based brand stands for, and it was a clear win this season for the utilitarian dresser.
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
This was a unique show as it marked the first since the late Paco Rabanne himself passed at the age of 88 years old. Julien Dossena, the Creative Director played homage to the shiny silver cocktail dresses and hard-core party wardrobe looks we have come to know and love from the designers shows. Dossena left a seat empty in the audience that read “Monsieur Rabanne” for his “utopic creative approach” and “radical expression” This show was a true homage to the designer himself and featured five of his original designs at the end. With some pops of color, a hint of surrealism from the printed Dali dresses to a soirée of original designs, Monsieur Rabanne’s memory was left imprinted on the audience this season.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten showcased their fall collection, and it was an ode to “make do and mend.” A solo drummer was met on a vast stage which emphasized the negative space in the room, a mirror reflected the musician, a thoughtful narrative around the solitude of being an artist. The obvious nod to 90’s grunge perpetuated by floral prints, velvet jackets, oversized coats, undone blazers, and bold gold leather. It was a meeting of practicality and elegance for the woman who thrives in wearable fashion. Denim was showcased as a part of the collection, giving the entire runway a real-world appeal. Structured and belted coats were a win for this collection, presenting the true statement pieces this fall will be your outerwear.
Balmain
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing stole the show at Day 2 of PFW, playing the beautiful Frank Sinatra’s “My Way”. The lyrics “When there was doubt/ I ate it up and spit it out/ I faced it all and I stood tall” to Rousteing, were “about following the voice inside your heart and your soul.” The show certainly looked different from anything we have previously seen from the Creative Director, and heavily leaned on classicism, creating a number of modernized timeless looks. His ultimate goal this season was to focus on quality and that message was not lost – sharp cuts, monochromatic looks, supersized bags, shoulders bare and evening dresses that will hang in your wardrobe for a lifetime was the key. All black everything eveningwear dominated the runway as a nod to the 40’s and 50’s in a modernized take, using neoprene and PVC to construct draped looks accompanied with bows and ties. The show was not shy of details, chic and elevated for the woman that dares to wear Balmain. It was clear this season that Rousteing did things his way.
Below, take a look at some of the most striking looks from the first few shows at Paris Fashion Week AW 2023
Balmain
Balmain
Balmain
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
The Row
The Row

Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
It seems like every time one thinks Dries Van Noten can’t be topped, the Belgian luxury brand ups the stakes in a novel way. The latest news? DVN has now partnered up with luxury online retailer Mytheresa.com to launch a capsule collection—both womenswear and menswear—which drops today.
“I am honored to launch this exclusive collection with Mytheresa, a treasured longstanding partner,” the designer said. “With this collection that amplifies the vivacity and strength of expert traditional crafts from across the globe, we seek to encourage joyful optimism and abandon and spark carefree fun.”
Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
You need only glance through the latest line to agree that Mr Van Noten has hit the nail on the head with this launch. Joyful? Yes it is. Optimistic? Very much. Carefree? In copious amounts. With its jewel color palette, ikat-inspired patterns, and bursting blooms, the special summer capsule line is all about vibrance. While lightweight, flowy fabrics characterize the pieces for women, the menswear creations use similarly cheery prints and hues in camp-collar shirts and laidback trousers, all of which can be freely mixed and matched to create brand new looks. “[This collection] was a natural continuation of the spring/summer 2022 collection, which was very colorful, free, and festive. It was about [the Indian] Holi festival, it was about Burning Man, about really enjoying life, and especially enjoying that freedom we have been craving for such a long time,” he explains. “In addition, it was another opportunity to include that incredible craftsmanship from India,” he continues. “The people in India really needed the support, Covid-19 was very hard on India. In that way, for me, it was having the possibility to work with them and to see what they could do, that was really fantastic.”
Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
To capture its essence, the collection was shot by Bruna Kazinoti to create an editorial story, which was directed by none other than Mytheresa’s Chief Creative Officer, Julian Paul. The exclusive line hasn’t just been limited to clothing, however. Enthusiastic shoppers will also find resort-ready accessories in the fresh Dries Van Noten drop, including striped sandals, floral tote and chest bags, bucket hats, sunglasses and edgy cuff bracelets. Below, the designer reveals more about his freshest creations, what inspires him, and much more.

What is the story behind the capsule collection, and what inspired it?
The idea was combining prints, colors, flowers… tropical flowers, leaves, sunsets… all the things that make you think about the perfect summer and the perfect summer outfit. That, mixed with handmade and hand embroidered fabrics, made completely using these beautiful techniques in celebration of Indian artistry.
Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
As the third generation of a Belgian tailoring family, what are the biggest lessons you have learnt from your father and grandfather?
I inherited a sensibility for garment making, its traditions and rituals. They immersed me in the fashion business by making me accompany them to Paris or Milan on their many buying trips for collections. This was the spark behind my love of fashion and dressing. At that time, I knew that I was meant to create rather than sell, as I already had this unconditional passion for fabrics, which still drives me in my creative process today.

If you were a young designer starting out in the industry today, what advice would you give your younger self?
Persistence, patience, perseverance, and passion… Passion fuels creativity!
Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
Your headquarters and studio are located on the swaying waters of the Antwerp harbor, you have a beautiful house in the countryside of Antwerp with a large flowering garden, and you are in the process of building a house in Italy. How does nature balance all the different aspects of your life? Do you have a different take on your new house in Italy, especially after times of Covid and lockdowns?
I think my love of gardening influences my designs for the sole reason that I absolutely love the aspect of the unknown with nature. You plant the seed and hopefully something beautiful will grow! It could be said that it’s the lack of control we have over the earth which intrigues me.
It is the same thing for my houses in Lier and in Italy. Working on this new home calms me down and it is something I look forward to every vacation. Far away from the metropolises where I can keep my feet on the ground and hands in the earth.

Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
You are a passionate gardener. For previous collections, you combined your two passions and created floral prints using photographs of flowers you’d grown in your garden. Did your style of gardening change during the pandemic—and if so, can this be seen in your collections?
I love all colors, even the “strange” ones and it is always a challenge for me to use them, either in my collections or in my garden. When I’m gardening, I can say that in a certain way I’m building a collection, there are different trends and so many different shapes!
The enormity of the cloud that is Covid-19 was new and dark in our lives. It dictated a new way of working and a time for reflection. Our collective instinct was that our work needed to be very simple, fresh, and optimistic. I was seeking inspiration from a beauty devoid of nostalgia, an energetic and optimistic beauty.

What kind of flower did you choose for the exclusive capsule collection for Mytheresa?
Anemone, daisy, chrysanthemum, alstroemeria, anthurium. Flowers that stand for summer, fun, carelessness.
Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten
What are you most excited about when you think of post-Covid times?
Hugging people, seeing friends… the whole thing. Professionally, I believe our role is to inspire, excite and bring a spark of excellence to the lives of those we are lucky enough to dress. It’s difficult to predict what the future holds for fashion in general, yet the specifics of our motivation are crystal clear. All we can do is not lose sight of what it is that makes us happy in our endeavor. That said, I believe we must continue to distill our creative expression to the essential core and inspire.
What does luxury mean to you?
The heightened quality of what is not immediately necessary, existential.
If you weren’t into designing, what do you think your profession would have been?
Without any doubt, gardener! My other passion is gardening, it keeps my feet and hands in the ground. Flowers are a symbol of elegance and femininity, and when I take this into account, gardening for me is not so far from fashion, but more of a continuation.

Photo: Courtesy Dries Van Noten