Diamonds

Vagues étincelantes necklace in white gold with diamonds, Souffle de diamants ring in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Having begun her journey in the musical sphere at the young age of 14, Farrah El Dibany is no stranger to the fine arts. The mezzo-soprano isn’t just the first Egyptian-African singer to join the Paris Opera Academy, she also holds a master’s degree from the Berlin University of the Arts and a bachelor’s in architecture at Technische Universität Berlin. Given her eye for the most intricate details, it would be safe to assume that this multifaceted woman aims at excellence in every sphere of her life—fashion included.
Often seen draped in elegant gowns, Farrah El Dibany takes over the pages of Vogue Arabia’s November 2022 issue sparkling in a new collection by Van Cleef & Arpels. This month, the French luxury jewelry house is celebrating its Legend of Diamonds line, which comprises two chapters: The 25 Mystery Set Jewels, and the White Diamond Variations. Here’s everything you need to know about both.

25 Mystery Set Jewels
Châtelaine earrings with detachable pendants in white gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse transformable necklace in white and rose gold with diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies, Hollywood bracelet in white and rose gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse ring in white and rose gold with diamonds and rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has repeatedly highlighted the undeniable beauty of colored gemstones with collections including Collection of the Century (2002), Pierres de Caractère (2006), Pierres de Caractère – Variations (2013), Émeraude en majesté (2016), and Treasure of rubies (2019). Now, the fashion house unveils the 25 Mystery Set Jewels, a collection of 25 statement creations, all of which feature painstakingly cut diamonds that come from one rough diamond of 910 carats, the Lesotho Legend. “Finding a stone of this size in its natural state is truly emotional,” the Director of the Van Cleef & Arpels Stones Department shared. “It’s the kind of thing we dream of but don’t dare to imagine. We are here at the beginning of this diamond, after its formation, when there has not yet been any human intervention. When I see a rough stone like this, I would like to keep it this way, because it is so beautiful.”
The Lesotho Legend, which is counted as the fifth largest rough diamond in both size and quality ever mined, found its 67 brilliant fragments embedded in a series of stunning jewelry pieces. The Van Cleef & Arpels Design Studio ensured that the brand’s trademark style was recognizable throughout. Designers worked closely with expert gemologists and the High Jewelry Workshops to design precious settings inspired by the history of the Maison. For an extra dimension, Van Cleef & Arpels accompanied each diamond with precious gems, bringing together curved lines, and an intense play of colors—via rubies, sapphires and emeralds.
White Diamond Variations
Châtelaine earrings with detachable pendants in white gold with diamonds, Roaring Twenties transformable long necklace in white and rose gold with diamonds, Hollywood bracelet in white and rose gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Alexandre Vauthier. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
The second chapter in the Legend of Diamonds series, the White Diamond Variations collection, takes us back to the importance diamonds hold in the world of Van Cleef & Arpels. Celebrated since the time the very first VCA piece was sold in 1906 – a heart set with brilliant-cut diamonds – the diamond takes centre stage in this 82 piece line, which takes inspiration form the Maison’s rich heritage.
From cascading necklaces that take inspiration from the Roaring Twenties, to sparkling chandelier earrings that can be transformed into a clip, the White Diamond Variations pieces truly convey the absolute versatility of this most precious of stones. Jewelry enthusiasts will also delight in the Dear Liz earrings (inspired by the 1920s Bow brooch that belonged to Elizabeth Taylor), the Vagues étincelantes necklace, which is crafted to sit gently on the skin like a foam of diamonds, and the gorgeous Boogie-woogie bracelet, reminiscent of the Maison’s archival designs from the late 1930s through the 1940s.
Below, take a closer look at Van Cleef & Arpel’s captivating creations, as seen on Farrah El Dibany.

Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Diamond chandelier clip in white gold with diamonds, Collerette Mystérieuse ring in white and rose gold with diamonds and rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; jacket, pants, Alaïa. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Fabulous Fifties necklace in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo
Diamond Chandelier transformable earrings in white gold with diamonds, Fabulous Fifties necklace in white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry; dress, Gemy Maalouf. Photo: Joseph Degbadjo

Style: Anna Klein Digi tech:Dope ParisProduction: Danica Zivkovic Hair: Annesofie Begtrup at Wise & Talented Makeup: Annabelle Petit at Wise & TalentedNails: Adrienne at B-agency Photography assistant: Patricia Zheng

Palmyre earrings in white gold with diamonds, Zip Couture Alliance graphique necklace in white gold with pink sapphires and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels; dress, Elisabetta Franchi. Photographed by Greg Adamski
It all began with a love story when Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stone dealer, tied the knot with Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a stone cutter, to later join their passion for jewelry making with Van Cleef & Arpels. Loyal to its vision for elegant craftsmanship of a selection of exceptional quality precious stones, the fine jewelry house has been catering to a high-profile international clientele for about 100 years. Van Cleef & Arpels has perfected the mission to create more accessible jewelry for women, relying on historical narratives and precious stones that formulate its day-time jewelry profile.
Flying butterfly necklace with detachable clip in white gold with diamonds, Flying Butterfly Between the Finger Ring in white and rose gold with Traditional Mystery Set sapphires and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels; top, SemSem. Photographed by Greg Adamski
Though known for its emblematic Alhambra launched in 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels has offered other iconic pieces punctuated with the house’s signature sophistication and elegance. The Zip Couture Alliance Graphique necklace is inspired by the 19th century and re-appropriates the humble beginnings of a boot fastener. Suggested to design by Alfred Van Cleef’s daughter, Renée Puissant, this piece was designed in 1950. With a ribbon of rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds mounted in platinum, emeralds, and sapphires, this piece has adorned the necks of stars including Irina-Lazareanu, Anne-Hathaway, Cate Blanchett, and Margot Robbie.
Inspired by an Oasis located in the Syrian desert, the Palmyre Collection brings the Palmyre earrings and necklace that reflect timeless elegance and sophistication. Embellished with different rows of sparkling diamonds set in white or yellow gold, the collection brings out an airy, fluid-like setting. The collection illustrates a scenery of glittering drops of water, enhancing the diamonds’ natural beauty, as they’re worn day and night.
Palmyre necklace in yellow gold with diamonds, Ludo bracelet in yellow and white gold with diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels; dress, Maison Yeya. Photographed by Greg Adamski
In 1935, the Ludo bracelet was created in honor of Louis Arpels, who was referred to as ‘Ludo’ by his friends. Lauded for its sleek gold ribbon built of hexagon bricks, two colors of gold are blended in the representation of flexible fabric. The assembly frames a jewelry clasp that gives the impression of a belt buckle trimmed with round diamonds, effortlessly draping around the wrist.
Médaillon abstrait long necklace in rose and white gold with spessartite garnets, pink and black spinels, coral, onyx, and white cultured pearls, Van Cleef & Arpels; dress, Valentino. Photographed by Greg Adamski
The Médaillon Abstrait long necklace is an exhibition of precious stones beaded in an inlay of pink and black gems, corals, pink and white gold, and pearls. The necklace’s geometrical character was inspired by the long necklaces of the 70s and flexibly transforms from a long tasseled piece into layers of three.
With a tender and lightweight flow, Van Cleef & Arpels revisits asymmetry and the art of illusions through its Two Butterfly jewelry collection. The Flying Butterfly with a Detachable Clip stands out in an attire of one marquise-cut white diamond to testify the jewelry house’s innovation and vision for breaking the typical frame for creativity. The Flying Butterfly Between the Finger Ring is painted with a Traditional Mystery Set of Sapphires, narrating the story of a delicate confrontation linked by an open band of rose or white gold.
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Photography: Greg Adamski Style: Mohammad Hazem Rezq Hair and makeup: Manuel Losada Floral design: FloretteProduction: Danica Zivkovic Senior fashion market editor: Amine JreissatiModel: Sophia Alshehry Production assistant: Rama NaserPhotography assistant: Nino ClavecilasShot at Al Barari

Princess Flower collection. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Coin
Italian jewelry house Roberto Coin has been redefining exclusivity by setting itself a distinguished jewelry identity which includes championing ethical craftsmanship. Handcrafted by artisans, this brand taps into the imagination of its Italian designer, Roberto Coin, and translates it into alluring and timeless pieces.
Founded in 1996, Coin’s first collection, Appassionata, featured an unusual ruby signature that instantly marked the brand’s unique identity—one that prioritized diversity and unthematic designs. Despite the brand’s non-replicable creations, this ruby signature persisted throughout, with a story to tell about the exciting journeys that inspire every piece. Believing that a standard theme for the collection would wipe away the creativity of the designer’s input, Roberto Coin’s mission is to create pieces that empower and bring out every woman’s beauty. “It has never been my goal to be recognized through the use of my designs with similar, thematic characteristics that make them recognizable at first glance; that would have been too easy,” Coin revealed.
Roberto Coin. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Coin
Worn by several celebrities on the red carpet, Roberto Coin’s collection covers a range of bangles, necklaces, charms, and rings with occasional incorporations of precious stones and crystals like amethyst and pearls for a contemporary twist. “From the first steps that I took in this amazing field, I’ve always wanted Roberto Coin to be an eccentric entity, born in an unusual way and definitely unlike anyone else in both personality and objective,” Coin adds.
Love in Verona collection. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Coin
The Love in Verona Collection was mainly inspired by the Italian city of Verona, illustrating the city’s romantic atmosphere as it stages Shakespeare’s literature Romeo and Juliette. The symbolistic collection embraces three shades of gold, repetitively mentioning the brand’s four-petal diamond flower in reflection of Arena of Verona’s architectural structure. Every diamond in the collection was individually added by hand through a microscope, with the gold polished in a  satin finish.
Belonging to the brand’s Princess collection, the Princess Flower introduces condensed assemblies of small diamonds to illustrate the signature flower in bloom. A characteristic twisted wire was used to elegantly portray a frame carrying the flower, with shades of gold and precious stones adorned throughout. Manually assembled piece by piece, every flower was created by 3D technology, with perfectly proportionate internal and external layouts.
Princess Flower collection. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Coin
Aiming to offer a new experience every time, the Italian jewelry house launches five new collections every year and is housed in over 1,000 boutiques located in 60 countries all around the world. “My vision is the same as when I began, a vision that guarantees a more dynamic and curious future and, above all, a future capable of surprising again and again,” Coin says.
Love in Verona collection. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Coin
Best known for being one of the members of the Responsible Jewellery Council, Roberto Coin’s business practices meet the benchmark standard for ethical operations and mechanisms. The jewelry house also purchases its polished diamonds exclusively from ethical sources subscribed to the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and The System of Warranties, which are international systems of certifications and warrantees that ensure the diamond’s freedom of conflict throughout its supply chain.
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Designer Nour Jahan. Photo: Courtesy of Nour by Jahan
As part of the dynasty behind one of Geneva’s most exclusive jewelry firms Jahan Jewellery, Nour Jahan is a scion of an artistic, creative powerhouse. Her new eponymous line, Nour by Jahan, celebrates her very name, “light,” and in the year since its founding, has already found a popular following among royals and the ultra elite.
Photo: Courtesy of Nour by Jahan
Only 22, Jahan fell in love with jewelry as a young girl. Surrounded by passion, art, and craft from day one, she says of her family’s jewelry business, “I instantly knew it was something that I wanted to be a part of.” While her family moved to Saudi more than 30 years ago, they established their headquarters in Geneva and Jahan was born and raised in the Swiss city. It was at university in London that Jahan started designing, quickly going on to become the first Jahan woman to work at the company in its 170 years of history. “While still in school in Geneva, every day after class I would head straight to our workshop to watch beautiful jewels being created by my uncle Shahpour, CEO of the Jahan Company. I would sit by his side as he analyzed gemstones and refined his designs. With the stones laid out before him, he would explain to me who they were for and what he intended to do with each one. I was fascinated by his boundless knowledge and appreciation of gemmology.”
Play bangle in rose gold. Photo: Courtesy of Nour by Jahan
Jewelers to 35 kings, Jahan Jewellery has flourished in the Middle East and beyond. Personal service is key, along with its “near-miraculous ability to source the most magnificent gems,” according to Jahan. Replete with statement pieces, every design in the new line combines a unique accumulation of knowledge. Her Persian heritage and upbringing have positioned her. “Each design has a special meaning, a story to tell, and I want each jewel to be the wearer’s favorite piece,” she says.
Multicolor sapphire bracelet. Photo: Courtesy of Nour by Jahan
The Nour by Jahan collections all share a common foundation: light. Every piece shines, and movement is a central concept – the stones often appear to float, or dance. The latest collection, called Passion, celebrates the magic of precious stones, rubies, and sapphires. “I have created complete sets which focus on the splendid color of the stone to celebrate them in their full glory,” notes the designer. Vibrant, handpicked sapphires, rubies, and diamonds are placed in harmony in subtly concealed 18ct handcrafted gold settings, inviting the stones to dazzle. “I only choose gems from the best mines in the best locations around the world to ensure the highest quality,” says Jahan.
Play earrings in white gold. Photo: Courtesy of Nour by Jahan
All jewels comply with many initiatives that help make the trade more transparent, like the Kimberly Process for diamonds. “Such procedures not only promote positive development in the country of origin but also reassure clients of our ethicality and responsibility,” assures Jahan. “We are proud to say that all members of our supply chain share the same values and sustainability process.” Each stone is handpicked, and Jahan mentions that she particularly loves blue, pink, and purple sapphires, though diamonds are her personal favorites. “My next design will feature emeralds,” she says, “which I believe bring positive energy; their green color a symbol of hope”.
Read Next: Discover the UAE’s Most Exciting Emerging Jewelry Design Talent at This Exhibition
Originally published in the October 2021 issue of Vogue Arabia

Madame Royale, daughter of Marie Antoinette wearing the diamond bracelets. Photo: Courtesy of Christie’
Diamonds belonging to France’s last queen Marie Antoinette are being auctioned by Christie’s on November 9 in Geneva. To be presented in their current form, the 112 diamonds were once a pair of bracelets that adorned the hands of queen Marie Antoinette. The pieces will form lot 1 of Christie’s live Magnificent Jewels Auction, with an estimated value of US $2,000,000-4,000,000.
Photo: Courtesy of Christie’s
In the spring of 1776, the Queen had bought these two diamond bracelets for the exorbitant sum of 250,000 livres, paid partially by gems from the Queen’s own collection and funds she received from King Louis XVI. At the height of the revolution, the diamonds were sent to Count Mercy-Argenteau, Ambassador of the Austrian Empire for safekeeping and remained untouched until the Queen’s passing. The Queen’s daughter, Madame Royale, then received them upon her arrival in Austria. Madame Royale then passed them on to her nieces and nephews, the Count and Countess of Chambord and the Duchess of Parma.
Photo: Courtesy of Christie’s
“Over the past 255 years, Christie’s have offered many Historic Jewels from Royal Houses around the world. It is a privilege to be able to offer these exceptional and unique bracelets for sale at Christie’s where they will attract bidding from collectors globally. As seen in recent Geneva sales, the market for jewels of noble provenance continues to perform extremely well,” said François Curiel, Chairman Christie’s Luxury.
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T.MØNSTER The Stories of Our Soul collection. Courtesy T. MØNSTER
The latest collection drop from Danish-Canadian fine jewelry design house T. Mønster reveals solid gold and diamond medallions each as covetable as the next. They speak with contemporary finesse to ancient celestial and mythical tales. “I looked outward into the universe, to stars and constellations,” shares fine jewelry designer Tina Mønster who has been crafting statement fine jewelry for almost a decade. “The alignment of the stars creating constellations is another way humans look into their souls. Humans love mythology and storytelling; we connect to the fate of being born when the stars are aligned in our Zodiac sign.”
And what a time to be alive. Climate activist Greta Thunberg is the launch cover star of Vogue Scandinavia–the newest Vogue to join the international roster. The launch happens at when the latest IPCC reports reaffirm a desperate climate emergency. Global temperatures are at their highest for 125,000 years. Meanwhile Covid levels continue to fluctuate globally and anti-vaxxers are storming the streets of world capitals.
Sometimes desperate times call for a Lion’s Gate Portal. Bella Hadid recently dedicated an entire Instagram post to her desire to manifest an open heart with the bravery of a lion. Many have been turning quite literally to the stars for guidance, embracing astrology. While the study of planetary positioning having an actual influence on a person’s behavior and future is not confirmed by science, it doesn’t deter millions to flock to read their zodiac on a monthly if not daily basis. One of the earliest forms of storytelling, humans gravitate to celestial symbols to share personal details of themselves with others.

T.MØNSTER Constellations. Courtesy T. MØNSTER
The new drop by T.Mønster offers various storytelling “chapters” to do just that. A collection of 12 Zodiac constellations represents the astrological signs of birth months. Meanwhile, a collection of Kindred spirits talks to animals representing the “animal soul,” the animal with whom the human feels connected to via character traits. Finally, another medallion collection honors the feminine soul celebrating both Mother and Goddess. A gold clip chain offers the possibility to wear various pendants, maillons, and links to connect several medallions to fashion one’s personal story. On the first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Vogue Arabia speaks to Mønster on the timeless allure of the medallion, the heart of her latest tour de force collection.
The birth of The Stories of Our Soul collection stems from where?It came about while I was thinking I really wanted to create a line of jewelry that gave the wearer the opportunity to wear their heart on their sleeve or should I say wear their soul on their décolleté. A few years ago, while I was living in Denmark, I would see these beautiful people lightly decorated in tattoos. Not full sleeve tattoos but tattoos in a very exquisite Danish way. An elegant woman in jeans, a thick belt, and cashmere sweater sitting at a café would reach for her latte and her sleeve would let her wrist breath a little and there you would see this beautiful little line tattoo. Danes are always so precise and make very concise decisions, so whatever they chose to engrave on their skin represents something to them or gives deep meaning into who they feel they are; their tattoos tell a story of their soul. I wanted to create a jewelry line that used a single line tattoo style and then I thought most about how humans connect to their spiritual selves. I feel that we look to nature to connect to ourselves, so I researched various animals, plants, and other living things to find out about the various characteristics that embody certain creatures.   

T.MØNSTER 10KT Gold chain link with mini diamond nut maillion and Lyra medallin. Courtesy T. MØNSTER

What medallions are the most precious to you and why?
The medallions most precious to me would have to be Mother and Goddess. Being a mother has given me purpose and helped me to mature. Motherhood thrusted me into becoming more patient and tolerant. It has built up my self-esteem and shown me the importance of bravely standing tall in the face of fear. My mother left when I was young, and it left me with deep wounds. My daughter has mended these wounds; her existence is the greatest gift I have ever been given. I feel so honored to have been given this remarkable experience of being a mother. The Goddess medallion holds a special place in my heart because I think that we bear the fruit of femininity when we channel the divine energy that births our strength to survive. Goddess represents femininity, femininity is strong and any sex can choose to channel its power if they have the honesty and willingness to do so. 

T.MØNSTER 10 karat viper kindred spirit medallion

Sustainability is such a core topic in fashion now. Where are the pieces made?Because we wanted to work with state-of-the-art equipment, we decided to expand our production line internationally. We now work with manufacturers in India to create pieces with a low carbon footprint. We carefully chose manufacturers that had deep knowledge of creating this type of jewelry. We are excited to be creating pieces in solid 10 Karat gold with diamonds, but we will also offer some pieces in solid .925 silver and gold vermeil. We believe in creating an inclusive brand that allows everyone to have an opportunity to adorn themselves in something special.
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Resembling a transparent nugget, the virtuoso fancy yellow 128ct Tiffany Diamond is the largest yellow diamond in the world. It was last worn by Lady Gaga on the Oscars red carpet in 2019, and prior to her, Audrey Hepburn when publicizing Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961; now its exact replica is making its silver screen debut in cinemas worldwide this December.
The Tiffany diamond.

Death on the Nile, based on Agatha Christie’s 1937 mystery novel that recounts a murder and misadventures aboard a glamorous river steamer, sees it woven into the screenplay.
The film stars Gal Gadot, Armie Hammer, Annette Bening, Jennifer Saunders and  Dawn French and is directed by Kenneth Branagh, a five-time Academy Award nominee who also plays the lead as detective Hercule Poirot. Reed Krakoff, Tiffany & Co. chief artistic officer, considers the central role “deserving of our priceless diamond,” which has rarely made an appearance outside its vault since it was process.” Delgado waxes poetic on how the jewelry brings an added dimension to a character.
Agatha Christie.

Proposed sketches for the Tiffany diamond’s setting

“The Tiffany Diamond’s color and beauty are quite extraordinary; it’s a hypnotic piece,” he says, describing how the jewelry offers a new layer of beauty and quality to the costumes. To wit, if Benning’s character is glamorous and eclectic, avant garde jewels and particularly bracelets, pulled from the Tiffany Jean Schlumberger collection, help to balance the aesthetic.
The jewelry will not only highlight the costumes but also glisten against an exceptional Egyptian landscape. Death on the Nile is filmed against the grandiose Giza pyramids, the sparkling Nile River, and expansive desert. And while the diamond is a replica, for both protection and comfort’s sake, its fiery glow and ambitious girth will garner as many gasps from the audience as the numerous turns of Christie’s mystery.
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Originally published in the November 2020 Issue of Vogue Arabia