designer interview

As Dubai Fashion Week FW23 neared its end, Michael Cinco presented a collection inspired by the Duomo di Milano – an iconic cathedral renowned for its transcendent gothic architecture.
Michael Cinco. Photo: Jeremy Zaessinger
The Dubai-based couturier is known for creating gowns that exude timeless regality and maximalist glamour loved by some of the biggest names on the planet. Intricate designs, Swarovski embellishments, and the most luxe fabrics are only a few of the elements that make this Filipino designer’s creations one-of-a-kind.

Read on to know all about Michael Cinco’s Dubai Fashion Week FW23 show.
Tell us more about your collection being showcased at Dubai Fashion Week.
The Duomo di Milano is a symbol of beauty, elegance, and grace. The stunning architecture of the iconic cathedral provides an endless source of inspiration. The intricate carvings, delicate lacework, and soaring arches of the cathedral offer a wealth of possibilities for a collection that seeks to capture its essence. I wanted to pay tribute to this beautiful place through pieces that pay homage to this timeless masterpiece of architecture and help ensure its legacy endures for generations to come. The showcased collection reveals a variety of jackets, with each one of them having an intricate design and unique embroidery work that reflects the gothic architecture of the Duomo di Milano. The collection predominantly featured black and grey hues and was embellished with stunning Swarovski crystals that added an extra touch of glamour. Notably, this collection differed from previous ones, as it included pre-a-porter pieces that could be effortlessly worn throughout the day and night, for various occasions.
What kind of woman are your designs made for?
The collection has been carefully selected for women who are modern and feminine yet bold and royal. These are women who are not afraid to make a statement and stand out from the crowd.
How does it feel to be a part of the inaugural Dubai Fashion Week?
Dubai Fashion Week has set a high bar for itself, having earned the distinction of being the fifth most significant global event in the fashion industry. As a Dubai-based brand with over 25 years of experience, Michael Cinco is honored to participate in this prestigious event, which provides a platform for designers to express their creativity freely and boldly. The Dubai government’s support and inspiration have played a significant role in creating an environment that fosters business growth, and I would like to express my gratitude to them. This event is a celebration of the visionary leaders who have worked tirelessly to make Dubai the modern, safe, and vibrant place it is today.
Name one regional and international celebrity you would love to see in your designs.
It has always been my dream to dress my favorite actress Cate Blanchett, alongside Nadine Nassib Njem in our region.
What’s next for your brand?
Michael Cinco‘s strategy for growth involves introducing a pret-a-porter collection that caters to women of all backgrounds, as well as expanding into accessories and fragrances. The brand recently launched a line of high-end jewelry featuring contemporary and daring designs that embody the couture spirit for which it is renowned. Additionally, the brand is also venturing into the fragrance industry with diverse scents.
Read Next: Dubai Fashion Week FW23: Lama Jouni Celebrates Feminine Elegance on the Runway

On Dubai Fashion Week FW23‘s penultimate day, Lama Jouni speaks to Vogue Arabia about her latest collection.
Photo: Courtesy of Lama Jouni
Staying true to the roots of her eponymous brand, Jouni turned the runway into a celebration of the female form, each piece infused with her signature elegance and impeccable tailoring.
The Lebanese designer and DDFC/Vogue Fashion Prize 2017 finalist launched Lama Jouni in 2013 after spending years honing her craft at renowned design houses such as Balmain and Rad Hourani. Since then, she has been subject to great critical acclaim and dressed some of the most renowned celebrities in the world.

Read on to know all about Lama Jouni’s Dubai Fashion Week FW23 show.
Tell us more about your collection being showcased at Dubai Fashion Week.

For this season, I wanted to add more offerings to the essential line, showcasing new materials that are elevated for occasional wear. However, I have kept some of the core pieces that represent the brand’s DNA.

What kind of woman are your designs made for?

I design for women that are confident and practical but most importantly I want to provide women with pieces that will boost their femininity and make them feel empowered in their bodies.

How does it feel to be a part of the inaugural Dubai Fashion Week?

I am always happy to see the industry growing in the region, and therefore, I will always try to be a part of this growth and help expand our creativity internationally.
Name one regional and international celebrity you would love to see in your designs.

Regionally I would love to dress Nadine Labaki, and internationally, Hunter Schafer and Zoë Kravitz.

What’s next for your brand?

On Dubai Fashion Week FW23’s penultimate day, Dima Ayad speaks to Vogue Arabia about her latest collection.
Dima Ayad and Laura Leonide wearing Dima Ayad. Photo: Rudolf Azzi
With a brand that is all about timeless beauty and helping every woman discover her innate allure regardless of shape or size, the Lebanese designer’s show mirrored these exact values as the Dubai Fashion Week runway became a kaleidoscope of colors.
Ayad launched her eponymous label in 2010 as the result of a market that refused to cater to anyone that looked like her. Frustrated at the lack of plus-size clothing that really embraced women of all sizes,  Ayad left her career in hospitality to build a brand that champions inclusivity. Today, she is celebrated as one of the leading designers in the region and has become a favorite for women all across the board.

Read on to know all about Dima Ayad’s Dubai Fashion Week FW23 show.
Tell us more about your collection being showcased at Dubai Fashion Week.I called it ‘Freedom in Color’ seeing as fashion is a form of expression and I got a bit tired of dark runways for winter. We have mild winters and I thought to brighten everything up this season.
What kind of woman are your designs made for?Every woman really. She’s on the go. Wants to stand out. Has that je ne sais quoi confidence and most definitely lights up a room.
How does it feel to be a part of the inaugural Dubai Fashion Week?
I’m truly honored to be a part of this and very excited to see what’s coming. The region is having its moment and we are here for it!

Ashley Graham for Dima Ayad. Photo: Courtesy of Dima Ayad

Name one regional and international celebrity you would love to see in your designs.
For regional celebrities, I would say, Queen Rania and Amal Clooney. Internationally, one dream came true with Ashley Graham. Julia Roberts is very high on my list and always will be!

What’s next for your brand?
We’re in the growth phase and so much is happening at the moment. We’d love to be in many concessions around the world, the key online retailers too. We’re now back into showing every season and excited about a few international collaborations in the pipeline.

Anderson continues to divide his time between his namesake label and Loewe. When asked about his first visit to the factory of the Spanish brand, he is not shy to show his excitement. “It just made me fall in love,” he says. “I liked that Loewe was not so popular at that moment; it was like a hidden gem that just needed to be cleaned up. When you get there, there’s nothing more exciting than to see people make something in front of you. You have to feel astonished when you witness the craftsman taking a sheet of black leather and transforming it into a three-dimensional object. I think that the ultimate luxury is craft and a human being able to make something. I just thought, this company has been going since 1846 and it has all this knowledge, so imagine if we put more energy in, what the outcome could be…”
Photography: The Bardos

It was exactly this transfusion of freshness, quirkiness, and capacity to produce “wow” moments on the runway while being faithful to craftsmanship that has become the signature style of Anderson during his tenure at Loewe. For his most recent winter collection, currently in stores, Anderson has designed showstopping pieces that cause fashion directors around the world to marvel, as well as a new clientele now encouraged by his fresh aesthetics. “I think that in the beginning, our very historical customers were confused with what I was doing, and it took a little bit of time for us to reassure them. After we changed the logo and restructured the factory, once people saw the end product, the opinions started to change quite quickly,” he comments.
Photography: The Bardos

“This season was all about exploring volume and the idea of clothing as jewelry. There’s lots of beading with a dégradé effect. Some of the looks are styled with sneakers. I like grounding something like a frock coat with utilitarian accessories. We have also designed a leather bag based on Japanese basketry. My favorite looks are the ones where we have collaborated with Takuro Kuwata, as I collect his work. The pieces he has made for Loewe look like leather but in fact they are porcelain.”
The New Loewe Store in The Dubai Mall

The good news for the Middle East clientele is that Loewe has just revamped one boutique and opened another one at The Dubai Mall, with an extended offering for men and women. It is planning to further expand its presence in the region with a new store in Kuwait.
Photography: The Bardos

But these are much more than regular flagships, as the retail floor appears like a mix of a place where you can naturally buy clothes and some home accessories, but also enjoy a beautiful space curated with one-of-a-kind art that reflects this idea that Loewe is a full lifestyle.
Photography: The Bardos

“I think that today, consumers shop differently because we want more from brands. There has to be authenticity. And for me, the store is the most personal thing,” justifies the designer. “I want to find things that you don’t see in other stores. I want to see a beautiful painting with a shoe and a bag. It’s a fun exercise to compile all these pieces and it is something I work pretty hard on. Just choosing the ceramics for the store is a big process, and I wouldn’t pick anything I would not have in my own home.”
Photography: The Bardos

On the topic of authenticity, it is quite remarkable to witness how an Irish designer has the capacity to successfully reshape the most Spanish of Spanish brands, without falling into bullfighting or flamenco dancer clichés. For Anderson, who just spent his last holiday in the country, this is a reflection of a healthy use of the rich archive of Loewe, without allowing it to fully dictate his design, and the discovery at his own pace of the Iberian country.
Photography: The Bardos

“I grew up a lot in Ibiza, and I began to know more about the country when we started to shoot the look books in different parts of Spain,” explains the artistic director, who now collects 18th century Spanish ceramics. “For me, it’s an evolution, to take it bit by bit, and being slowly inspired without forcing anything in my creative process.” For a brand that is so keen on made-by-hand, it is fair to say that Loewe couldn’t be in better ones.
Photography Assistant: Loc Boyle