arab jewelry

Unlike clothing and accessories, jewelry has little protective functionality, amulets aside. Bracelets and jeweled barrettes might not be able to keep out the cold, but a pretty bauble can certainly warm the heart. Beyond their intrinsic value, there’s a strong emotional aspect to these small and special adornments.
While every season has its jewelry trends, it generally takes a long while for specific pieces to feel dated—especially these days when designers are referencing many past decades all at once. Elsa Peretti and Nancy Cunard might have been the spiritual muses of the many silver and stacked bracelets we saw, but the pieces themselves looked modern.
Gobstopper-sized pearls, once a symbol of 1980s muchness, returned with a sense of fun. Speaking of amusement, instead of swinging on chandeliers, why not wrap crystals drop around your neck? Alternatively you might let the fringe fly from lobes and wrists. Fall’s tendency is toward big statements, but there were lots of niche motifs like locks and keys, flowers, and fauna. Ear-shaped earrings, mouth-shaped pins, and other body-inspired pieces offered an ersatz anatomy lesson. Several designers showed their smarts in terms of sustainability by making treasures from found objects, a reminder that beauty is everywhere to be found.
Off the Cuff
When it comes to bracelets, more is more is more and bigger is better.
Rick Owens
Saint Laurent
Alexander McQueen
Crystal Visions
Adorn yourself in crystal drops and outshine the chandelier.
Miu Miu
Off-White
Carolina Herrera
Gobstoppers
Pearls the size of Jaw Busters are more statement-making than sweet.
Versace
Dolce & Gabbana
Givenchy
Anatomy Lessons
Eyes, lips, and ears make for witty, conversation-starting baubles.
Schiaparelli
Raf Simons
Proenza Schouler
Major Statements
When it comes to large-scale earrings, sometimes one is enough.
Mossi
Rave
Courreges
Lock and Key
Jewelry this charming opens all doors.
Balmain
Fendi
Moschino
Fringe Elements
Get into the swing of the season with pieces that move along with you.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
JW Anderson
Valentino
Bricolage
DIY goes deluxe.

Central St Martins
Ahead of the Curve
Arcs take the place of circles when it comes to earrings and chokers.

Stella McCartney
Head Starts
Fall’s crowning glories come in the form of ornamented clips and crowns.

Christian Dior
Gilding the Lily
Designers offer a pretty bouquet of floral motifs for fall.

Loewe
Noah’s Ark
These low maintenance pets deliver maximum joy.
Puppets & Puppets
Dries Van Noten
Chanel
Originally published in Vogue.com

Fawaz Gruosi. Photo: Courtesy Fawaz Gruosi
If ever there was a James Bond on the red carpet it would be Fawaz Gruosi. Tall and brooding, with eyes the color of the Mediterranean, Gruosi, son of a Lebanese father and Italian mother, is a man of mystery with the megawatt, mischievous smile of a teenager. A leader of the jet set, he is often seen on the arm of women donning his high jewelry creations – Bianca Balti, Ming Xi, Hend Sabri, Irina Shayk, and Bella Hadid, to name a few. Gruosi spearheaded De Grisogono, a high jewelry brand he founded in Geneva with just CHF 10,000 in the early Nineties, marking such industry shifts as the introduction of black diamonds. In 2017, his Creation I, a diamond necklace hailed as “groundbreaking,” was sold for US $33 million. With his De Grisogono years now behind him, Gruosi, 69, is entering a new phase, founding an eponymous brand seeped in color, molded with audacious form, and exceptional stones.
Necklace with emeralds and diamonds
“After the chapter of De Grisogono was over, I knew, for me, it wasn’t over. I don’t know anything but creating jewelry; I have been doing it since I was a young man and I have so many more designs to create,” starts Gruosi. “I am at a place where I am free to create what I want with the experiences and knowledge that I have,” he says. “I am proud to put my name on this new brand and embark on the next era of my journey as an artist. Each era of my career allows me to reinvent myself and keep innovating. Of course, you can’t change someone at my age so there may be some things I will continue to do, but that is what makes me who I am.” Born in Beirut, Gruosi spent his earliest days in the city and then moved to Florence. At 17, he worked as a sales assistant at the Florentine jeweler Torrini and later at Harry Winston in London. He worked in Saudi Arabia in the Seventies, from age 23 to 27, recalling, “It was such an enriching experience in my young career. The country is incredible.”

Bracelet in white gold with blue topaz and amethyst
In 1982, at the request of Gianni Bulgari, Gruosi began traveling the world, catering to Bulgari’s VIP clientele. He also went on to have two children, daughters Allegra and Violetta. “My children have always influenced my work; a!er all, they are also my creations. I also had a son who passed away many years ago, I am influenced by him as well. But not just my family – it can be anything or anyone around me.”
Earrings with carved onyx and diamonds
If his years leading De Grisogono were marked with flashing lights reflected in the sparkle of his baubles – expressive forms in maxi size not for the weak of heart (or pocketbook, for that matter) – it was also during this time that he gifted and received two of his most memorable pieces. “I recall offering a necklace to my mother – this was a moment in time I will always remember,” he reminisces, adding that the first piece of jewelry he ever gifted to himself was a watch he designed. Now, at the helm of a new adventure, he describes his jewelry as “a mixture of different forms, unique materials such as amber, and designs that create emotions and make one feel alive.”
The pandemic didn’t stop Gruosi from coming to Dubai in 2021, with Jessica Kahawaty, Eva Longoria, and Halima Aden wearing his jewels for the Abu Dhabi Dream Ball presented by the Global Gift Foundation and Fawaz Gruosi. The event raised more than $1 million towards supporting children. His jewels also lit up the recent Red Sea Film festival. Worn by Youssra, Candice Swanepoel, Hend Sabri, and Tina Kunakey, the jewels reminded of the glamour of Cannes. “I would like women all over the world to discover my designs and feel what it is to wear them – confident, bold, and with character. I want the pieces to be recognized regardless of who is wearing them.” He underscores that, “all stones speak to me,” when asked if there is a gem that beckons his eye. “I am particularly attracted to colored stones. They can impact a person’s state of mind. Stones make me feel different things, different moods – from excitement to peace of mind.” And yet for all the marvel of his work, Gruosi – who reveals that he is “terribly shy” – considers that true beauty comes from within. “I believe beauty does lie in the eyes of the beholder. What may be beautiful to me may not necessarily be beautiful to someone else. For example, I like color, shapes, and roundness, daringness in my designs, asymmetry. Others may not think the same. That’s individuality, which is beautiful itself.”
Sharon Stone wearing Fawaz Gruosi jewelry
Candice Swanepol wearing Fawaz Gruosi jewelry
Hend Sabri wearing Fawaz Gruosi jewelry
Jodie Comer wearing Fawaz Gruosi jewelry
Originally published in the February 2022 issue of Vogue Arabia

Courtesy of Jude Benhalim, Eruption

Founded in 2011, young Egyptian designer Jude Benhalim has enjoyed an impressive trajectory, honing her signature with each new collection while exploring new creative grounds. Her latest drop for FW20, titled Eruption, serves as an effusive manifestation of ignition with a stunning selection of earrings, necklaces, cuffs and rings in artistically battered gold-plated brass, silver and resin. While most people tend to view the topic of erupting volcanoes and lava as catastrophic natural disasters, Benhalim lends us her artistic lens, finding beauty and inspiration in the concepts of fire and passion. For the designer, Eruption is symbolic of what is within — a powerful moment that drives women to new dimensions, to discover their strength and inner beauty.
Courtesy of Jude Benhalim, Eruption

As visually mesmerizing as magma, the collection features recycled-waste resin meticulously outlined with a maze of textured metal. An ornamental aesthetic features asymmetric elements, curvy silhouettes, irregular waves, cut-out details and shades reflective of the season: deep blue, burnt red and ultramarine green.
Courtesy of Jude Benhalim, Eruption

Like so many designers who have used the gentler pace of 2020 as a time to reflect and take stock of their environmental footprints, Benhalim has reaffirmed her commitment to ethical practices. Crafted from sustainable metals (silver and gold-plated brass), Eruption is her most environmentally-sound offering to date. “I’ve done a lot of reflecting during this tough year,” she says, “and part of that reflection has been an increased awareness of myself and my surroundings, and my responsibilities towards the earth.”
Courtesy of Jude Benhalim, Eruption

Not only limited to the use of recycled metals, the production process involves utilizing the support and artisanal skills of homeland communities – a localized and cyclical approach that many international designers are now exploring.
Courtesy of Jude Benhalim, Eruption

In an exclusive video, we’re offered a behind-the-scenes look at the techniques used to create each intricate piece, beautifully narrated by Benhalim who explains her creative vision.

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Jude Benhalim’s FW20 collection, Eruption, is now available in stores and online
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