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Zanini RTW Spring 2022

Zanini RTW Spring 2022

Marco Zanini has a profound knowledge of the fashion industry and he is fully aware that to grow his Zanini line, presenting its sixth collection this September, he needs financial support. “It’s definitely time to find a partner,” said the designer, while showing his spring 2022 lineup, as sophisticated and chic as usual.
The look: Zanini updated his signature sober and discreet elegance with more playful touches. Upscale natural fabrics with textures continued to take center stage in this refined lineup for women who want to look impeccable and unique, including during their spare time.

Quote of note: “The process here is very different, it’s about trying to really understand the needs of my clients and my final consumers. It’s not about the bold look for the catwalk, it’s about the small details that make each piece appealing for women living a real life.”
Key pieces: A cotton and silk shirt, printed with a hand-drawn motif of straw baskets, tucked into linen pleated short pants; a relaxed striped suit featuring baggy pants with a drawstring waist; a feminine, flared shirtdress decorated with a floral pattern, and a navy blue jumpsuit blending sartorial details with workwear.

Takeaway: In today’s market, that is becoming more and more challenging for niche brands, Zanini has certainly all the right credentials to succeed at growing in an organic way, without loosing its signature exclusivity.

Versace RTW Spring 2022

Versace RTW Spring 2022

Celebrities and supermodels, prints and crystal mesh, foulards and safety pins — and a a big dose of fun. All the ingredients of the signature explosive Versace formula were there on Friday night when the fashion house returned to the physical format with a flamboyant show.To the tune of her retro pop hit “Physical,” British music star Dua Lipa, the face of Versace’s fall 2021 advertising campaign, made her catwalk debut walking the runway twice: she opened the show in a black skirt suit with slits kept closed by multicolor safety pins and she closed it — and took the final bow with Versace — in a hot pink crystal mesh set.

She was not the only notable on the runway. Along with the most-requested models, Gigi Hadid included, the cast featured Emily Ratajkowski; Naomi Campbell, – her statuesque beauty exalted by a mannish suit in a bold pink tone – and Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon Ciccone, wrapped in a silver crystal mesh gown.

On the catwalk, which featured a roof created with silk foulards that were waved by shirtless perfectly abbed models rhythmically pulling black ropes, Versace unveiled a rich, big co-ed collection true to the brand’s heritage.

The brand’s iconic safety pins made a playful comeback in brightly colored variations that peppered several black dresses and separates with slits, vertical cuts and cut outs. Foulards stole the spotlight. Splashed with vibrant patterns, they were not only used as accessories but became an integral part of the pieces, for example as inserts in a denim mini frock, peeping out from the edges of a sexy vinyl bustier dress or from the waist of a pair of classic fluid pants in a deep burgundy tone paired with a matching coat and a logo T-shirt.

“The foulard is a fundamental component of Versace’s heritage and character. It’s acted as a canvas for our iconic prints and is worn in multiple ways from knotted tops to headscarves to bag accessories, it’s a way of adding Versace attitude to any look,” said  Versace chief creative officer Donatella Versace. “The foulard has been with us since the very beginning of the brand, but this season turns everything on its head, it is no longer fluid or dreamy, the scarf is provocative, sexy, wound tight.”

Vivid colors, from sorbet shades to neon hues, added an energetic boost to the show’s flamboyant vibe, underscored by maxi floral and geometric patterns, as well as logos – especially on the men’s pieces, which had a varsity, sporty vibe, or on the knit sweaters and vests enriched with an intarsia Versace crest.

There was lots going on here, but the joyous collection, which included a lineup of unapologetically sensual evening options, was a strategically studied and commercially savvy take on Versace’s iconic exuberance that  should keep its parent Capri Holdings happy.

This Street-Legal Porsche Prototype Started Life as a Le Mans-Grade Race Car. Now It Can Be Yours.

This Street-Legal Porsche Prototype Started Life as a Le Mans-Grade Race Car. Now It Can Be Yours.

You could soon own a street-legal version of the car that helped Porsche own endurance racing during the ‘80s and early ‘90s.

An ultra-rare 1991 Porsche Koenig Specials C62 was just listed for sale on Issimi. The outrageous-looking speed machine may not be in mint condition, but it’s hard to think of a better car in which to recreate the feeling of racing at Le Mans.

Porsche racers took home the top prize at the 24 Hours of Le Mans every year from 1981 and 1987. Much of this dominance can be traced to two cars, the 956 and its successor, the 962. Although the 962 didn’t take home as many checkered flags at the race as its predecessor (the 956 was responsible for four wins, and the 962 claimed two), it was a genuine force until rule changes brought its time to an end. With its racing days behind it, Porsche let a handful of companies, including Koenig, convert the remaining 962 prototypes for street use.

Issimi

Koening, the German tuner, has a tendency to take a high-performance vehicle like the Ferrari Testarosa and make it even more extreme. And sure enough, that’s exactly what the shop did with the C62. Although it looks identical to the race car, it was completely re-engineered for street driving and to meet German government regulations, according to the listing. In fact, there is not a single shared body panel between the two vehicles.

Inside the Porsche Koenig Specials C62 

Issimi

Underneath the C62’s rear-positioned engine lid, you’ll find a 3.4-liter twin-turbocharged flat-six. That mill is mated to a five-speed manual transmission that sends power to the rear axle and can generate 550 hp, a number that was verified as recently as 2019. The car’s suspension has been completely redone and fitted with softer springs and dampers, while its racing-style brakes now feature more street-oriented pads.

1991 Porsche Koenig Specials C62 

Issimi

Koenig had dreams of building 30 C62s, but only ended up producing three, of which this is the second. Since being completed in 1992, it’s spent much of its time in Japan, where it passed through a number of collector’s hands. Its current owner purchased it in 2019 and had it imported to the US. It’s been well-maintained and has just 1,555 miles on the odometer but, as Jalopnik points out, its body hasn’t been restored, which means there are some signs of wear and tear, like scrapes and chips.

Issimi

Most surprising of all about this listing is the price tag: $995,000. While certainly not accessible, it’s less than the $1,030,000 the car cost brand new (which would be over $2 million in today’s money). It’s hard to call a car with a high-six-figure sticker price a bargain, but this actually might be just that.

Sportmax RTW Spring 2022

Sportmax RTW Spring 2022

In the Max Mara system, Sportmax is definitely the edgier, more experimental brand. With this spring collection, the label confirmed this role, unveiling a cool collection that offered new interpretations of the Sportmax stylistic codes.
Inspired by the dichotomy between “order and chaos, light and obscurity,” as highlighted in the show’s notes, fashion director Grazia Malagoli delivered a charming lineup focused on contrasts. In particular, this season the brand’s signature urban minimalism was paired with baroque, opulent elements for an interesting clash: streamlined pants, second-skin knitted overalls, elongated blazers and baggy pants with a ’90s vibe were juxtaposed with gathered and draped ethereal dresses, crafted from gauze, silk georgette and tulle.

Corsetry elements, including laced-up details and exposed bras, stressed the feminine attitude of some of the looks, while an athletic, almost adventurous vibe, was introduced in the lineup via parachute-like straps and tone-on-tone maxi backpacks — the survival bags of Sportmax girls.
The soundtrack, composed by Teho Teardo specifically for the show using his signature microscope sounds, enhanced the overall feeling of being suspended in time in the bright dawn of a new world — a happy one for the Sportmax brand.

MM6 Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2022

MM6 Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2022

Ah, the simple pleasure of sitting on a café terrace for an aperitivo. The MM6 Maison Margiela team left boxed snacks, including pickled onions in a jar painted white, offered beer and gin cocktails and then served up a compact, quirky collection of white suiting and black dresses with extra sleeves here and there; warped chessboard prints galore, and a hilarious faux-fur roller suitcase in collaboration with Eastpak.
The look: Power suits, soigné evening gowns and rugged streetwear with a surrealist bent, all the way through to clownish, checkerboard printed ensembles with neck ruffs. Surrrealist female artists Claude Cahun, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning were among the muses for the design team.

Quote of note: “Sleeves and gloves become key vehicles for the collection’s surreal undertones, protruding from trouser waistbands, bag handles and even the back panels of a leather jacket, and traces of the making process are felt in a kraft paper bustier and an intricately pleated calico ruff skirt.”
Key pieces: Black evening columns made of elegantly sagging lining fabric; and taut biker jackets with extra sleeves hugging the waist.
Takeaway: If you’re plotting a “The Queen’s Gambit” party or binge rewatch, you’ll be spoiled for choice for chessboard-patterned clothes.

GCDS RTW Spring 2022

GCDS RTW Spring 2022

Giuliano Calza’s beachy bright collection — full of raffia, jangly jewelry and hand crochet — was a salute to summer and a post-lockdown life. This unisex collection had it all — soft and sun-bleached denim, manga comic references, slinky eveningwear with hidden logos and a sustainability angle, too.It all hung together in a surreal film written and directed by Calza that took viewers to the desert, and to an underwater jellyfish world. During a walk-through of this upbeat collection, Calza, whose title is creative director, said he wanted it to be “comfy, easy — and precious, too. I designed it knowing it would be the first collection to hit the beach post-pandemic.”

There was lots of flashiness and fun in the form of a tailored jacket paved with pink crystals, courtesy of the Czech company Preciosa, and a long, screaming yellow sunhat-slash-cape with a melting popsicle design, a nod to the late Franco Moschino.

Little crochet pirate heads were stitched together to form a minidress, a long fringed skirt and a tank top, all of them studded with fat faux emeralds. The designs were inspired by a characters in “One Piece,” the Japanese animated series produced by Toei Animation. 

Calza, who sold a majority stake in GCDS earlier this year to the Made in Italy Fund, which looks to promote small and medium-sized brands, is also taking an eco-turn, introducing a new “green label” for spring, filled with clothing and accessories made with sustainable or upcycled denim and jersey.
There were also chunky clogs that looked as if they were made of rubber, but instead were fashioned from recycled and compostable materials. The designer will be showcasing the new green label at Selfridges in the coming months. 
Despite all the flash and green flourish, there was one thing missing here — the in-your-face logo. Calza’s a pro at reading the industry tea leaves, and believes now is not the time for bold statements.
Instead, he sneaked the GCDS letters into the chunky chains on hobo bags, traced them lightly onto a long, black sequin dress and the buttons of a shirt — a cool act of subversion.

Tod’s RTW Spring 2022

Tod’s RTW Spring 2022

Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi admitted he may never turn his back on the bon-ton aesthetics he feels is so ingrained in his style – and that is so personal, as it always reminds him of his childhood and his mother. However, for spring the designer wanted to add a tomboyish streak to his designs.
He introduced a strong knitwear component for the first time, with short patchwork dresses or crochet tops with nubby fringes derived from the art of carpet-making. The knits contributed to the comfort factor that is a key trend in Milan.

Skirts were all short, sometimes with raw edges, and Chiapponi kept the cocktail silhouette simple, as in A-line coats.
A ‘60s vibe ran throughout the collection as Chiapponi ticked off Federico Fellini, Anna Magnani and Isabella Rossellini photographed by Robert Mapplethorpe, as well as films such as “La Dolce Vita,” “Rosemary’s Baby,” “ Valley of the Dolls,” and “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” as inspirations – cue the pretty bucket hats. At the same time, models walked in front of photos of artist Carlota Guerrero’s installation at the PAC contemporary art museum – a reminder that Chiapponi is designing for today’s “multifaceted woman,” he noted.

Several looks hinged on details that emphasized Tod’s core material – leather. For example, large pockets in dark calf stood out in contrast on a sand-colored, sleeveless shirt jacket. Chiapponi also combined leather and linen, which gave a short dress a modern and new texture- almost shiny.
The designer also worked with nylon, on colorful, puckered windbreakers for a sportier look.
Chiapponi obviously paid great attention to Tod’s bread-and-butter –  shoes and bags – emphasizing the T signature logo and the pebble motif. Sandals were offered with macro rubber soles – although at times they looked too clunky –  but there were also daintier kitten-heeled pointy shoes.
Small bowling bags embellished with the pebble pattern were jazzed up by vivid yellow, turquoise and bright red hues.

Conor McGregor Spins for Jacob & Co.

Conor McGregor Spins for Jacob & Co.

UFC Champ Conor McGregor recently raised the profile of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino by posting a video of the roulette-wheel watch to his much-viewed Instagram account. In just one day, McGregor’s August 29 post on his “thenotoriousmma” Instagram platform received more than 1.2 million likes, and counting.
The Astronomia Casino features a fully operational roulette wheel. In the short video, McGregor is sitting by a pool. He pressed the watch’s pusher to spin the roulette wheel, calling for “Black 11.” The white ceramic ball instead falls on Red 14.
His caption accompanying the video was directed at the rapper Drake, who also owns an Astronomia.
Jacob & Co’s Astronomia Casino is one of the many iterations of the Astronomia timepiece, with a four-arm vertical movement. The watch’s roulette wheel, made in green, red, and black enamel with mahogany inlays, operates on demand and replicates the action of a roulette wheel. The white ceramic ball is separated from the movement by a near invisible sapphire crystal.
Above the roulette wheel Jacob & Co places a double-axis tourbillon, a rotating spherical diamond with the exclusive Jacob Cut, a rotating magnesium and lacquered globe, and a titanium subdial time display. The entire display revolves around the watch every ten minutes. (Source: Jacob & Co.)

Porsche May Turn the 718 Into an All-Electric Sports Car for 2025

Porsche May Turn the 718 Into an All-Electric Sports Car for 2025

Porsche is looking to give the 718 lineup a major jolt.

It sounds like the German marque is giving serious consideration to electrifying the long-running sports car, according to Car and Driver. Even better, the next-generation 718 could arrive on American shores as soon as 2025.
There have been rumors of a battery-powered 718 for a while now, but it’s now starting to seem like more than just mere idle speculation. The auto publication reports that sources within and outside the company have confirmed the EV is in the works. The powertrain is still in development, but the vehicle will be built on the brand’s all-new sports car platform. More powerful variants will likely have motors on the front and rear axle, too, making it the first all-wheel-drive 718. Power figures remain in the air, but it’s expected to be as powerful as the gas-powered 911. Range is more of a sticking point, with the marque pushing for at least 250 miles.

Porsche Mission R concept car 

Porsche

It’ll look quite similar to the current iteration of the nameplate, with the exception of a new nose with wider headlights those seen on the Taycan. For a preview of what the car will look like, just take a look at the Mission R concept (photo above) introduced at IAA Mobility and mentally subtract its crazy aero package, racing-style livery and giant rear wing. You can expect the car’s current restrained cockpit to get a serious makeover, though. And as has been the case for the nameplate since 2005, it’ll be offered as both a Boxster convertible and Cayman fastback coupé.
Interestingly, it sounds like the new 718 would have more in common with the 911 than its current version. Porsche isn’t worried about there being too much overlap between the two vehicle, though, as they will be differentiated by vastly different powertrains. There are currently no plans to electrify the brand’s most iconic nameplate before the end of the decade.

Porsche

Of course, we won’t know any of this for sure until Porsche officially confirms the vehicle’s existence. For the time being, it’s staying mum. A representative for the marque declined to address the matter when reached for comment by Robb Report on Thursday.
Still, don’t be surprised if we hear something sooner than later. Car and Driver reports that the battery-powered 718 could make its official debut in 2024 as part of the brand’s 2025 lineup. Based on the success of the brand’s first EV, the Taycan, it’ll be something to look forward to.

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy RTW Spring 2022

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy RTW Spring 2022

London Fashion Week’s most subversive — and cavalier — fashion showman, Charles Jeffrey kept the fashion pack hostage for nearly 75 minutes on Monday night to view his two-part spring event. London Mayor Sadiq Khan stood crammed behind a laser-beam fence with the sweaty, maskless fashion pack and assorted nightlife creatures to witness the spectacle in a grubby, airless nightclub.The look: Part one by Bradley Sharpe: An attempt at ’60s-era Balenciaga couture, in white fabrics resembling paper, and black ones that looked like trash bags. Part two by Jeffrey: The usual loud and zany clothes for party people who burn the candle at both ends, literally. Some even wore candles on their heads, yielding a creepy cap of melted wax.
Quote of note: “Approved attire includes the following…,” dictated the show’s “Rules of Entry.” The rules listed pretty much everything seen either in the audience, or on the runway: “Ceremonial garb, suede shoes, monocles, cowls, cheap wigs, shirts unbuttoned to the navel, handkerchiefs, studs, tunics, shrouds, over plucked eyebrows, green or lavender garments, wing collars, work boots, cocked hats, sleeveless undershirts, earrings, gowns, peroxide blonde hair, stars painted upon the brow, mantles, red neckties, tin foil bonnets, fresh blooms, heavy jewelry, sashes, sleeves rolled up to the armpits, black leather, high drag, scents of jasmine, camphor and frankincense.”

Key items: Lacquered and ruffled tartan capes and skirts, knit hats with floppy bunny ears, or some statement hair sculpture.
Takeaway: Charles Jeffrey is London’s torchbearer for expressive, excessive party clothes and streetwear, and arguably the season’s most indulgent young talent.

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